{{Short description|Traditional Chinese round collar gown}} {{Infobox Chinese | p = Yuánlǐngshān | l = Round collar shirt | lang1 = English | lang1_content = Round collar robe | p2 = Yuánlǐngpáo | p3 = Pánlǐngpáo | t2 = 圓領袍 | s2 = 圆领袍 | t4 = 盤領袍 | s4 = 盘领袍 | pic = Figures in a cortege, tomb of Li Xian, Tang Dynasty|100px | piccap = Men wearing ''yuanlingpao'', Tang dynasty painting, 706 AD. | t = 圓領衫 | s = 圆领衫 | l2 = Round collar robe/ Round collar gown | pic2 = Mingshichangao|100px | piccap2 = Woman wearing a ''yuanlingshan'' with a skirt, Ming dynasty }} A '''yuanlingshan''' ({{Lang-zh|c=圓領衫|l=round collar jacket|p=yuánlǐngshān}}) is a type of round-collared upper garment ({{Transliteration|zh|shan}}) in the traditional Chinese style of clothing known as {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}}; it is also referred to as a {{zhp|c=圓領袍|l=round collar gown/robe|p='''yuánlǐngpáo'''}} or a {{zhp|c=盤領袍|p='''pánlǐngpáo'''}} when used as a robe (called {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}}<ref name=":15">{{Cite book |last=Hua |first=Mei |title=Chinese clothing |date=2011 |isbn=978-0-521-18689-6 |edition=Updated |location=Cambridge, United Kingdom |pages= |oclc=781020660 |publisher=Cambridge University Press}}</ref>{{Rp|page=17}}).<ref name="auto789" /><ref name=":13">{{Cite thesis |last=유혜영 |date=1992 |script-title=ko:돈황석굴벽화에 보이는 일반복식의 연구 |publisher=이화여자대학교 대학원 |url=https://dspace.ewha.ac.kr/handle/2015.oak/192241|type=Doctoral Thesis }}</ref>
'''''Quling''''' ({{Lang-zh|c=曲領|l=Curved collar |p=Qū lǐng}}) refers to clothing with a round or arc-shaped neckline, which is one of the important forms of Hanfu.<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://www.zdic.net/hant/%E6%9B%B2%E9%A0%98 |title=曲領 |author= |date=|publisher=漢典 |language=Chinese |quote= }}</ref> Yuanlingshan falls under this category.The origins of Yuanlingshan are currently unknown. However, current research suggests that Quling existed during the Shang Dynasty, so Yuanlingshan existed before the Western Han Dynasty.
The {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} is an article of formal attire primarily worn by men, but women can also wear them.<ref name="auto789">{{cite journal|last1=Wang|first1=Xinyi|last2=Colbert|first2=François|last3=Legoux|first3=Renaud|date=2020|title=From Niche Interest to Fashion Trend: Hanfu Clothing as a Rising Industry in China|url=https://www.proquest.com/openview/94841c5430526c8b27950e1e941835fe/1?pq-origsite=gscholar&cbl=26212|journal=International Journal of Arts Management|volume=23|issue=1|access-date=1 February 2021}}</ref> In the Tang dynasty, the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} could be transformed into the {{Transliteration|zh|fanlingpao}} using buttons.<ref name=":4">{{Cite journal |last=Zhao |first=Qiwang |date=2020 |title=Western Cultural Factors in Robes of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties as Well as Sui and Tang Dynasties |url=https://webofproceedings.org/proceedings_series/ART2L/ICALLH%202020/WHYWB288.pdf |journal=2020 3rd International Conference on Arts, Linguistics, Literature and Humanities (ICALLH 2020) |publisher=Francis Academic Press, UK |pages=141–147 |doi=10.25236/icallh.2020.025 |doi-broken-date=12 July 2025}}</ref>
There are specific forms of {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} and {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingshan}} named for their decorations and construction; for example, the {{zhp|p='''panling lanshan'''|c=盤領襴衫}}, also called {{zhp|p='''lanshan'''|c=襴衫}} for short,<ref name=":14">{{Cite web |date=2020-11-28 |title=Chinese Traditional Costume - Lanshan for Scholars - 2022 |url=https://www.newhanfu.com/7784.html |access-date=2022-05-18 |website=www.newhanfu.com |language=en-US}}</ref><ref name=":13" /> '''{{Transliteration|zh|bufu}}''',<ref name=":20">{{Cite book |title=Introduction to Chinese culture: cultural history, arts, festivals and rituals |date=2018 |editor=Guobin Xu |editor2=Yanhui Chen |editor3=Lianhua Xu |display-editors=etal |isbn=978-981-10-8156-9 |location=Singapore |oclc=1030303372 |publisher=Palgrave Macmillan}}</ref>{{Rp|pages=185–186}} {{zhp|p='''wulingshan'''|c=無領衫|l=collarless shirt}},<ref>{{Cite web |date=2021-07-02 |title=Guide of the Ming Dynasty Shan/Ao Types for Girls - 2022 |url=https://www.newhanfu.com/17898.html |access-date=2022-06-13 |website=www.newhanfu.com |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2021-04-04 |title=Guide to Hanfu Types Summary & Dress Codes (Ming Dynasty) |url=https://www.newhanfu.com/13840.html |access-date=2022-06-13 |website=www.newhanfu.com |language=en-US}}</ref> {{zhp|p='''longpao'''|c=龍袍|l=dragon robe}}, and {{zhp|p='''mangfu'''|c=蟒服|l=python clothing}}.
== Terminology == {{See also|Garment collars in Hanfu}} The term {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingshan}} literally translates to "round collar shirt", consisting of the Chinese characters {{zhp|p=yuanling|c=圆领|l=}}, which literally translates to "round collar" and {{zhp|p=shan|c=衫|l=|labels=no}}, literally translated as "shirt".
The term {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} literally translates to "round collar robe (or gown)", consisting of the Chinese characters {{Transliteration|zh|yuanling}} and {{zhp|p=pao|c=袍}}. {{Transliteration|zh|Pao}} is an abbreviation for the term {{zhp|p=paofu|c=袍服}}, which is literally translated as "robe" or "gown".
The term {{zhp|p=panling lanshan|c=盤領襴衫}} or simply {{zhp|p=lanshan|c=襴衫}} refers to a specific variation of {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} characterized by a bottom horizontal band attached at the knee level, while following the overall form of the {{Transliteration|zh|shenyi}}, a long robe.<ref name=":14" /><ref name=":13" />
The term {{zhp|p=bufu|c=补服}} is a generic term referring to clothing adorned with a rank badge known as {{zhp|c=补子|p=bǔzi}}, which is often a mandarin square or roundels, to indicate its wearer's rank.<ref name=":21">{{Cite book |title=China: a historical and cultural dictionary |date=1998 |publisher=Curzon |editor=Michael Dillon |isbn=0-7007-0438-8 |location=Richmond, Surrey |oclc=38866522}}</ref>{{Rp|pages=|page=64}}<ref name=":20" />{{Rp|pages=185–186}} Such garments were typically worn by government officials.<ref name=":20" />{{Rp|pages=185–186}}
When a {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} or {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingshan}} is decorated with Chinese dragons called {{zhp|p=long|c=|s=龙|t=龍}} or decorated with {{zhp|p=mang|c=|s=蟒|t=|l=python}} decorations, including roundels or square rank badges, the generic term {{Transliteration|zh|longpao}} or ''mangfu'' is applied respectively depending on the number of dragon-claws used and the time period.{{NoteTag|A Chinese dragon can be found with 3, 4 or 5 claws. From ancient times to the Song dynasty, Chinese dragons were typically depicted with 3 claws. From the Ming dynasty, a Chinese dragon was defined as having 5 claws while the 4-clawed dragon was referred to as mang (python). There is a clear difference between the Dragon robe and mangfu. See page Mangfu, Dragon robe, Japanese dragon for more details.}}
== History ==
=== Before and during the Han Dynasty === The origin of {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} is currently unknown. However, current research suggests that {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} existed during the Shang Dynasty, at this time usually used as outerwear. By the Zhou Dynasty, {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} was already commonly used as military uniform,<ref name=":1995">{{Cite book | author = Liu Yonghua | editor = | title = Ancient Chinese Army Uniform | location = China | publisher = Shanghai Chinese classics publishing house | date = 1995 | pages = | ISBN = 978-7-5325-2033-6 | url = https://www.amazon.com.au/Ancient-Chinese-Army-Uniform/dp/7302305943 | language = Chinese | quote = }}</ref> and in daily life as outerwear and underwear, and subsequent dynasties inherited this practice. It is known that {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} was used as both outerwear and underwear during the Western Han Dynasty.<ref name=":2014">{{Cite journal |author=Lin Huaxu |author2= |author3= |url=https://cstj.cqvip.com/Qikan/Article/Detail?id=662723068 |title=圓領袍：從另類衣冠到流行服飾 |journal=貴陽文史 |year=2014 |volume= |issue=5 |pages=84-84}}</ref> But more often, it is mainly used as underwear,<ref name=":12">{{Cite journal |last1=Yang |first1=Shuran |last2=Yue |first2=Li |last3=Wang |first3=Xiaogang |date=2021-08-01 |title=Study on the structure and virtual model of "xiezhi" gown in Ming dynasty |journal=Journal of Physics: Conference Series |volume=1986 |issue=1 |article-number=012116 |doi=10.1088/1742-6596/1986/1/012116 |bibcode=2021JPhCS1986a2116Y |issn=1742-6588 |s2cid=236985886|doi-access=free }}</ref> but children and women often wear it as outerwear. Starting from the Eastern Han Dynasty, although {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} was also used as underwear, it has returned to being used as outerwear more and more frequently, until it became one of the common outerwear in the Wei and Jin Dynasties.<ref name=":2014"/> The collars of the Han dynasty {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} were not turned on both sides and their edges were similar to the styles worn in the Sui and Tang dynasties. It was also during the early years of the Han dynasty that the shape of the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} worn in the later dynasties, such as in the Ming dynasties, started to develop.<ref name=":12" /> <gallery mode="packed"> File:Confucius Goes to Meet Laozi - Partial -P1.jpg|A child wearing {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} and a gentleman, late Western Han Dynasty. </gallery>
=== Wei, Jin, Northern, and Southern dynasties / Six Dynasties === {{Main|Hufu}} According to the History of the Southern Dynasties, the clothing of the Hu people was a long robe with Tight sleeves, while the Western Wei murals show a round collar, a double-breasted front, and a long robe with narrow sleeves.This type of clothing with a double-breasted collar and narrow sleeves appeared in the Western Zhou Dynasty and continued into the following dynasties.<ref name=":1995"/> Therefore, current scholars believe that the round-necked clothing of the Hu people was influenced by the military uniforms of the Qin and Qin Dynasty. As time went by, a round-necked garment with the obvious characteristics of the narrow-sleeved long robe of the Qin and Qin Dynasty military uniform was formed, but with national characteristics and tailoring system.<ref>{{Cite journal |author=Qin Aisun |author2= |author3= |url=http://218.28.6.71:81/Qikan/Article/Detail?id=1001020482&from=Qikan_Search_Index |title=論北魏到清代初期男子圓領袍/衫變革 |journal=Journal of Suzhou Art & Design Technology Institute |year=2006 |volume= |issue=z1 |pages=53–56 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |url=https://zhuanlan.zhihu.com/p/677901660 |title=圆领袍的发展历史及演变 |author=尚织汉服学塾 |date=January 15, 2024 |publisher=Zhihu |language=Chinese |quote= }}</ref>
==== Influence of the Xianbei ==== When the {{Transliteration|zh|Wuhu}} migrated to the Central Plains, their dressing culture influenced the clothing culture of the Han people in the region.These northern nomads, including the Xianbei, also introduced new clothing styles, including the {{zhp|p=quekua|c=缺胯|labels=no}}, a type of crotch-length long jacket. The {{Transliteration|zh|quekua}} had either a round or snug (plunged) collar, tight sleeves, and less overlap than the traditional {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}}, which allowed for greater freedom of movement, especially for horse riding, and strongly impacted Chinese fashion.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book |last=Dien |first=Albert E. |title=Six dynasties civilization |date=2007 |publisher=Yale University Press |isbn=978-0-300-07404-8 |location=New Haven, Conn. |oclc=72868060}}</ref>{{Rp|page=317}} [[File:Pottery Figurine of Wei, Jin, or Southern-Northern Dynasties (10369962173).jpg|thumb|222x222px|Panling lanshan, Wei, Jin, or Southern-Northern Dynasties]] The Northern Wei dynasty was marked by cultural integration between the Xianbei and the Han Chinese. The Xianbei ruling elites adopted Chinese clothing and Chinese customs, while the Han Chinese started to integrate some of the Xianbei's nomadic style clothing, including high boots and narrow-sleeved {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} and {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingshan}} into Han clothing.<ref>{{Cite book |title=Migration and membership regimes in global and historical perspective: an introduction |date=2013 |publisher=Brill |editor=Ulbe Bosma |editor2=Kh Kessler |editor3=Leo Lucassen |isbn=978-90-04-25115-1 |location=Leiden |pages= |oclc=857803189}}</ref>{{Rp|pages=183, 185–186}} In this period, the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} worn by unearthed terracotta warriors were closed in the {{Transliteration|zh|zuoren}}-style instead of {{Transliteration|zh|youren}}-style, reflecting its {{Transliteration|zh|Hufu}} characteristics.{{NoteTag|{{transliteration|zh|Zuoren}} refers to having the garment closing on the left side while youren refers to having the garments closing on the right side.}}<ref name=":4" /> Since the Northern Wei dynasty, the shapes of the Han Chinese's {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}} also started to be influenced by the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}}-style robe, which originated in Western Asia and was then spread to the East through the Sogdians of Central Asia.<ref name=":4" />
In the Northern and Southern dynasties, the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} of the Xianbei was localized by the Han Chinese, resulting in a loss of its association with {{Transliteration|zh|Hufu}} and developed into a new form of {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}}, called {{Transliteration|zh|panling lanshan}}. This evolution was achieved through the addition of a new seam structure called {{zhp|c=襕|p=lán}}, which aligned with the traditional {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}} style and followed the Han Chinese's {{Transliteration|zh|shenyi}} robe.<ref name=":14" /><ref name=":13" /><gallery mode="packed"> File:Northern Wei Pottery Acrobat Figure (10100412353).jpg|''Yuanlingpao'' worn by an acrobat figure, Northern Wei File:Shanxi Museum - coffin paintings.JPG|Women wearing ''yuanlingshan'' with skirt, Northern Wei, Datong File:Fresco from the Tomb of Lou Jui (婁叡).jpg|Xianbei men wearing ''quekua'' in the form ''yuanlingpao'', Fresco from the Tomb of Lou Rui, Northern Qi (550-577 AD) File:Tomb of Northern Qi Dynasty in Jiuyuangang, Xinzhou, Mural 11.jpg|Xianbei men wearing ''quekua'' in the form of ''yualingpao'' and the lapel gown, Northern Qi </gallery>
==== Influence of the Sogdians ==== left|thumb|240x240px|Sogdian wearing their Sogdian-style yuanlingpao, 579 AD The Sogdians and their descendants, mostly from the merchant class, who lived in China during this period also wore a form of knee-length, {{Transliteration|zh|yuanling}}-style kaftan that retained their own ethnic characteristics but also showed some influences from East Asia, including Chinese and early Turkic influences.<ref name=":2">{{Cite book |last=Yatsenko |first=Sergey A. |url=https://www.academia.edu/11688661 |title=Serica - Da Qin, Studies in Archaeology, Philology and History on Sino-Western Relations |publisher=Wydawnictwo GAJT |others=G. Malinowski, A. Paron, B. Szmoniewski, Wroclaw |year=2012 |isbn=978-83-62584-40-6 |edition=1 |pages=101–114 |chapter=Sogdian Costume in Chinese and Sogdian Art of the 6th-8th centuries}}</ref> Due to the influence and the demands of the Chinese population, most Sogdian attire in China had to be closed to the right in the {{Transliteration|zh|youren}}-style.<ref name=":2" /> Their kaftan would often be buttoned up to the neck, forming a round collar. Occasionally, the collar or lower button would be undone to form lapel robes,<ref name=":2" /><ref name=":4" /> a style sometimes referred to as {{zhp|c=翻领袍|p=fānlǐngpáo|l=Lapel robe}}. This dressing custom of wearing {{Transliteration|zh|fanlingpao}}-style robes was later inherited and developed into the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} of the subsequent Tang and Sui dynasties.<ref name=":4" />
=== Sui and Tang dynasties, Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period === In the Tang dynasty, the descendants of the Xianbei and the other non-Chinese people who ruled northern China from 304 – 581 AD lost their ethnic identity and became Chinese; the term Han referred to all people of the Tang dynasty instead of describing the population ruled by the Xianbei elites during the Northern dynasties.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Holcombe|first=Charles|title=A history of East Asia: from the origins of civilization to the twenty-first century|date=2018|publisher=Cambridge University Press|isbn=978-1-107-11873-7|pages=99–100|oclc=1117553352}}</ref>
The {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} and {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingshan}}, tied with a belt commonly made of leather at the waist,<ref name=":16" /> became a typical form of fashion for both men and women during the Tang dynasty, as it was fashionable for women to dress like men in this period.<ref name=":15" />{{Rp|pages=34–36}}<ref name="auto789" /> Both garments became the main form of clothing for men as well.<ref name=":16">{{Cite book |last=Zang |first=Yingchun |title=Zhongguo chuan tong fu shi |script-title=zh:中国传统服饰 |date=2003 |publisher=Wu zhou chuan bo chu ban she |others=李竹润., 王德华., 顾映晨. |isbn=7-5085-0279-5 |edition=Di 1 ban |location=Beijing |trans-title=Chinese traditional costumes and ornaments |oclc=55895164}}</ref> Both the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} and {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingshan}} of this period had a long, straight back and front with a border at the collar. The front and back of the garments each had a piece of fabric attached for tying the clothing around the waist. The sleeves could be tight or loose, with tight sleeves designed to facilitate ease of movements.<ref name=":16" /> Trousers were worn under the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}}.<ref name="auto789" /> Some women also wore {{Transliteration|zh|banbi}} under their {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}}.<ref name=":9">{{Cite thesis |title=Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) |publisher=Columbia University |date=2013 |doi=10.7916/d8kk9b6d |language=en |first=Bu Yun |last=Chen}}</ref> <gallery mode="packed"> File:Tang cavalier oiseleur.jpeg|A male rider wearing a ''yuanlingshan'', Tang dynasty File:Prince Zhanghuai's tomb, eunuchs.JPG|Eunuchs wearing ''yuanlingpao'' with loose sleeves, Tang dynasty tomb, 706 AD File:Li Xian's tomb, palace ladies.jpg|Women (middle and right) wearing ''yuanlingpao'' with tight and narrow long sleeves, Tang dynasty tomb, 706 AD File:Anonymous-Astana Graves Servant Girl1.jpg|Servant girl wearing a ''yuanlingpao'' with loose sleeves, Tang dynasty painting, mid-8th century AD File:Anonymous-Astana Graves Servant Girl2.jpg|Servant girl with loose sleeves ''yuanlingpao'', Tang dynasty, mid-8th century AD File:Tang Painted Pottery Figure (9833481494).jpg|Woman cross-dressing; she is wearing a banbi under her ''yuanlingpao''; Tang dynasty File:TangYizong.jpg|Emperor Yizong of Tang, late Tang dynasty File:王處直墓壁畫5.jpg|Tomb of Wang Chuzhi, Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period File:Tang court playing Polo.jpg|Polo players wearing ''yuanlingpao'' with tight sleeves on horseback, Tang dynasty </gallery>
One distinctive feature of men's clothing during the Tang dynasty was a horizontal band, which could also be attached to the lower region of the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}}.<ref name=":17">{{Cite book |title=5000 years of Chinese costumes |date=1987 |publisher=China Books & Periodicals |author=Xun Zhou |author2=Chunming Gao |isbn=0-8351-1822-3 |location=San Francisco, CA |oclc=19814728}}</ref>{{Rp|page=81}} Tang dynasty scholars and government officials wore long, red {{Transliteration|zh|panling lanshan}} with long sleeves, accompanied by headwear called {{Transliteration|zh|futou}}.<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Ka Shing|first=Charles Ko|date=2014-01-01|title=The Development of Academic Dress in China|journal=Transactions of the Burgon Society|volume=14|issue=1|doi=10.4148/2475-7799.1119|issn=2475-7799|doi-access=free}}</ref> In 630 during the 4th year of Zhen Guan, colour regulations for the {{Transliteration|zh|panling lanshan}} of the officials were decreed: purple for the 3rd and 4th rank officials; bright red for the 5th rank officials; green for the 6th and 7th rank officials; and blue for the 8th and 9th officials.<ref name=":17" />{{Rp|page=81}}In the Kaiyuan era (713 – 741 AD), slaves and the common soldiers also started to wear the scholar's {{Transliteration|zh|panling lanshan}}.<ref name=":6">{{Cite journal|last=Yang|first=Shao-yun|date=2017|editor-last=Chen|editor-first=BuYun|title=Changing Clothes in Chang'an|journal=China Review International|volume=24|issue=4|pages=255–266|jstor=26892132|issn=1069-5834}}</ref> <gallery mode="packed"> File:安元壽墓拄仗給使圖.jpg|''Panling lanshan'', Tang dynasty File:Mourning attendant, Tang Dynasty.jpg|Mourning attendant wearing ''panling lanshan'', Tang Dynasty File:韋貴妃墓儀衛圖.jpg|A Tang dynasty man (middle) wearing a ''panling lanshan'', notice the large horizontal band at the bottom of the robe. </gallery>
==== Foreign influences ==== {{Main|Hufu|Fanlingpao}} thumb|267x267px|{{Transliteration|zh|Yuanlingpao}} decorated with borders (sleeves and front), a Central Asian influence, Tang dynasty In the Tang dynasty, it was also popular for people to use fabrics, including brocade, to decorate the collars, sleeves and front of the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}}; this practice of clothing decoration is known as "partial decorations of gowns" and was influenced by the Sogdians of Central Asia, who had entered China since the Northern and Southern dynasties period.<ref name=":11">{{Cite journal |last=Zhao |first=Qiwang |date=2019 |title=The Origin of Partial Decorations in Gowns of the Northern Qi and Tang Dynasties |journal=2nd International Conference on Cultures, Languages and Literatures, and Arts |pages=342–349 |doi=}}</ref> Influenced by foreign cultures,<ref name=":11" /> some {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} could have a band of fabric decorated with Central Asian roundels which would run down at the center of the robe as a form of partial decoration.<ref name=":9" />
It was also popular to wear {{Transliteration|zh|Hufu}}.<ref name=":6" /> Almost all figurines and mural paintings depicting female court attendants dressed in men's clothing are wearing {{Transliteration|zh|Hufu}}.<ref name=":9" /> The {{Transliteration|zh|Hufu}} which was popular in this period was the clothing worn by the Tartars and the people who lived in the Western regions,<ref name=":7">{{Cite web |title=Woman's Costume in the Tang Dynasty |url=http://en.chinaculture.org/classics/2009-07/28/content_339652_2.htm |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210709181251/http://en.chinaculture.org/classics/2009-07/28/content_339652_2.htm |archive-date=2021-07-09 |access-date=2021-06-30 |website=en.chinaculture.org |page=2}}</ref> which was brought from the Silk Road.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Woman's Costume in the Tang Dynasty |url=http://en.chinaculture.org/classics/2009-07/28/content_339652.htm |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210709181446/http://en.chinaculture.org/classics/2009-07/28/content_339652.htm |archive-date=2021-07-09 |access-date=2021-06-30 |website=en.chinaculture.org |page=1}}</ref> Robes with double overturned lapels and tight-fitting sleeves were known as {{Transliteration|zh|kuapao}}, which originated from Central Asia.<ref name=":10">{{Cite book |title=China: dawn of a golden age, 200-750 AD |date=2004 |publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art |editor=James C. Y. Watt |isbn=1-58839-126-4 |location=New York |page=311 |oclc=55846475}}</ref> During this period, the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} could be turned into a {{Transliteration|zh|fanlingpao}} under the influence of {{Transliteration|zh|Hufu}} by unbuttoning the robes, while the {{Transliteration|zh|fanlingpao}} could be also be turned back into a {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} when buttoned.<ref name=":4" /> In some unearthed pottery figures wearing {{Transliteration|zh|fanlingpao}} dating from the Tang dynasty, it was found that the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} had three buttons on the collar.<ref name=":4" /> After the High Tang dynasty period, the influences of {{Transliteration|zh|Hufu}} progressively started to fade and the clothing started to become increasingly loose.<ref name=":7" />
=== Song dynasty === During the Song dynasty, the official attire worn by Song court officials was the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} with long, loose and broad sleeves.<ref name=":1" />{{Rp|page=275}}<ref name=":18">{{Cite book |last1=Zhu |first1=Ruixin |title=A social history of middle-period China: the Song, Liao, Western Xia and Jin dynasties |date=2016 |publisher=Cambridge University Press |author2=Bangwei Zhang |author3=Fusheng Liu |author4=Chongbang Cai |author5=Zengyu Wang |isbn=978-1-107-16786-5 |edition=Updated |location=Cambridge, United Kingdom |oclc=953576345}}</ref>{{Rp|page=3}} The colours of the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} were also regulated based on the official's ranks.<ref name=":1" />{{Rp|page=275}}<ref name=":18" />{{Rp|page=3}} The {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} had a large overlapping region being held down by a broad strip of fabric<ref name=":18" />{{Rp|page=3}}and a long line which divided the front part of the gown.<ref name=":1">{{Cite book |last=Zhang |first=Qizhi |title=An introduction to Chinese history and culture |date=2015 |isbn=978-3-662-46482-3 |location=Heidelberg |pages= |oclc=907676443 |publisher=Springer}}</ref>{{Rp|page=275}} Kerchief (typically {{Transliteration|zh|futou}}), leather belt, and {{zhp|p=yudai|c=魚袋|l=fish-bag}}, black hide boots or shoes, would be worn by the court officials as accessories.<ref name=":1" />{{Rp|page=275}}<ref name=":18" />{{Rp|page=3}}<gallery mode="packed"> File:B Song Dynasty Cao Empress Sitting with Maids.JPG|Maids of a Song dynasty empress wearing ''yuanlingpao'' File:Male Buddhist Donor, Northern Sung Dynasty.jpg|Northern Song Male Buddhist donor with a loose-sleeved dark ''yuanlingpao'' File:Emperor Taizong of Song.tif|Emperor Taizong of Song wearing a very large-sleeved ''yuanlingpao'' File: Renzong.jpg|Emperor Renzong of Song wearing a very large-sleeved ''yuanlingpao'' </gallery>
=== Liao, Jin and Western Xia dynasties ===
==== Liao dynasty ==== {{Main|Fashion in the Liao dynasty}} Khitan men wore the Khitan-style {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} with a belt at their waist and trousers tucked into felt boots.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Tackett |first=Nicolas |title=The origins of the Chinese nation: Song China and the forging of an East Asian world order |date=2017 |isbn=978-1-107-19677-3 |location=Cambridge, United Kingdom |oclc=991722388 |publisher=Cambridge University Press}}</ref>{{Rp|page=46}}<ref name=":22">{{Cite web |last=Li |first=Laiyu |date=2017 |title=辽代契丹人的服饰——云想衣裳系列 |trans-title=Clothing of the Khitans in Liao Dynasty - Yunxiang Clothes Series |url=http://www.kaogu.cn/cn/kaoguyuandi/kaogubaike/2017/0628/58704.html |access-date=2022-06-16 |website=www.kaogu.cn}}</ref> The Khitan-style {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} differed from those worn by the Han Chinese in terms of design and construction:<ref name=":23">{{Cite web |date=2020 |author=Bairin Zuoqi People's Government |title=契丹袍服及辽朝乐舞人物服饰 - 历史文化 - 巴林左旗人民政府网 |trans-title=Khitan robes and costumes of music and dance figures of the Liao Dynasty |website=www.blzq.gov.cn |url=http://www.blzq.gov.cn/contents/2020/02/33828.html |archive-date=2021-01-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210119024322/http://www.blzq.gov.cn/contents/2020/02/33828.html}}</ref> the Khitan-style {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} had both back and side slits, with the side slits located in the lower region of the robes.<ref name=":24">{{Cite web |last=Li |first=Yan |date=2013 |title=契丹袍与女真袍 |trans-title=Khitan robes and Jurchen robes |url=http://www.izhsh.com.cn/doc/10/2294.html |access-date=2022-06-16 |website=zhuangshi}}</ref> The back slits facilitated horse-riding and protected wearers' legs from the cold.<ref name=":23" /> Some of them had no slits.<ref name=":24" /> The Khitan-style {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} also had narrow sleeves,<ref name=":22" /> was closed on the left side,<ref name=":24" /> and was unadorned.<ref name=":23" /> <gallery mode="packed"> File:Preparing for hunting, mural from Tomb in Aohan, Liao Dynasty.jpg|Khitan men wearing tight-sleeved ''yuanlingpao'', Liao dynasty File:Guard, Fresco, Liao Dynasty, Chifeng Museum.jpg|A Khitan guard wearing tight-sleeved ''yuanlingpao'', Liao dynasty. File:Khitan wooden hunter figurines.jpg|Khitan men wearing tight-sleeved ''yuanlingpao'' </gallery>
==== Jin dynasty ==== <gallery mode="packed"> File:Jin Dynasty Tomb of Zou Fu, 1199 AD 03.jpg|Men wearing ''yuanlingpao'', Jurchen Jin dynasty </gallery>
==== Western Xia ==== <gallery mode="packed"> File:Xixia Cave Art (41991491571).jpg|Men wearing round collar robes, Western Xia mural File:西夏男供養人像.png|Western Xia men wearing tight-sleeved ''yuanlingpao'' </gallery>
=== Yuan dynasty === {{Main|Fashion in the Yuan dynasty}}
=== Ming dynasty === After the establishment of the Ming dynasty, the emperor restored the old system of the Tang and Song dynasties.<ref name=":12" /> During the Ming dynasty, the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} and {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingshan}} were also the most common form of attire for all genders, including officials and nobles. The {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} and/or {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingshan}} were not typically worn alone; a sleeveless vest called {{Transliteration|zh|dahu}} and an inner robe (either the {{Transliteration|zh|tieli}} or {{Transliteration|zh|zhishen}}) was commonly worn underneath.
The difference between the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} or {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingshan}} of the civilians and of the officials and nobles was the addition of a {{Transliteration|zh|buzi}} (either a mandarin square or roundels rank badge<ref name=":21" />{{Rp|pages=|page=64}}) and the fabric materials used.<ref name=":12" />{{NoteTag|In the Ming dynasty, officials were silk or leno silk. The ordinary civilians however wore coarse clothing made of cotton and linen.}} The clothing of the Ming dynasty was predominantly red,<ref name=":12" /> although, there were strict colour regulations depending on the ranks of officials.<ref name=":12" />{{NoteTag|According to the Ming dynasty regulations officials ranking from the 1st to 4th grades wore red; the 5th to 7th wore green, and the 8th to 9th also wore green.}} During an Imperial Funeral, Ming officers wore a grey-blue {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingshan}} without a Mandarin square, {{zhp|c=烏角帶|p=wūjiǎodài|l=black horn belt}} and {{Transliteration|zh|wushamao}}. This set was known as {{zhp|p=Qingsufu|c=青素服|l=}}.
The Ming dynasty {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} and {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingshan}} were typically characterized by the "cross-plane structure", with the back and front being bounded by the middle seam of the sleeves. The front and back were symmetrical and the left and right were also largely symmetrical; there is a central line acting as the axis of this symmetry.<ref name=":12" /> It has a round collar without a high-standing collar which is secured with a button; it overlaps on the front side and closes at the right side in the {{Transliteration|zh|youren}}-style, which follows the traditional {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}} system.<ref name=":12" /> It also has side slits on the right and left side. The sleeves of the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingshan}} are mostly in a style called {{zhp|c=琵琶袖|p=pípáxiù|l=pipa sleeves}}, which means the sleeves are large but curved to form a narrow sleeve cuff, to facilitate movements and be more practical in daily life.<ref name=":12" /> Men's {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} and {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingshan}} also have side panels called {{zhp|c=暗擺|p=ànbǎi|l=hidden pendulum}} at the side slits to conceal the undergarments.<ref name=":12" /> These side panels are also referred to as "side ears" which are unique to the Ming dynasty's {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}}; this specific structure reflects the combination of {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}} and attire of the Mongols, the ethnic minority.<ref name=":12" /> The "side ear" also allows for greater ease of movement and can increase the looseness of the robe.<ref name=":12" /><gallery mode="packed"> File:A mandarin's wife in ceremonial costume. Ming. Colours on silk. Toulon Asian Art Museum.jpg|A noblewomen's ''yuanlingpao'', Ming dynasty File:Mingnoblewoman1.jpg File:Artifact hanfu6.jpg|Unearthed Ming dynasty artefact File:A mandarin in court robe.jpg|Ming dynasty court official File:MingXianzong1.jpg|Ming Emperor wearing round-collar robes decorated with dragon roundels. This form of dress is called the ''longpao'' (i.e., the dragon robes). File:Ming Silk Robe, Dingling Museum (9863967836).jpg|Round collared robe, from the Tomb of Emperor Wanli, Ming dynasty </gallery>
=== Qing dynasty === {{See also|Xifu (Costume)|Tifayifu|Qizhuang}} During the Qing dynasty, the Manchu rulers enforced the {{Transliteration|zh|tifayifu}} policy along with 10 exemptions. Among the exempted people were the Han Chinese women, who were allowed to continue wearing the Ming-style {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}}, and on-stage theatre performers.<ref name=":19">{{Cite journal |last=Wang |first=Guojun |date=2019 |title=Absent Presence: Costuming and Identity in the Qing Drama A Ten-Thousand Li Reunion |url=https://muse.jhu.edu/article/759116 |journal=Harvard Journal of Asiatic Studies |volume=79 |issue=1 |pages=97–130 |doi=10.1353/jas.2019.0005 |s2cid=228163567 |issn=1944-6454|url-access=subscription }}</ref><ref name=":62">{{Cite book |last=Su |first=Wenhao |chapter=Study on the Inheritance and Cultural Creation of Manchu Qipao Culture |title=Proceedings of the 3rd International Conference on Art Studies: Science, Experience, Education (ICASSEE 2019) |date=2019 |chapter-url=https://www.atlantis-press.com/proceedings/icassee-19/125923391 |series=Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research |language=en |publisher=Atlantis Press |volume=368 |pages=208–211 |doi=10.2991/icassee-19.2019.41 |isbn=978-94-6252-837-6|s2cid=213865603 |doi-access=free }}</ref> While {{Transliteration|zh|qizhuang}} was worn in the dominant sphere of society - ritual and official locations, {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}} continued to be worn in the subordinate societal sphere, such as in women's quarters and theatres.<ref name=":19" /><gallery mode="packed"> File:六十七代衍聖公 繼配葉夫人衣冠像.jpg File:六十九代衍聖公 元配王夫人衣冠像.jpg File:MET 62 220 0486.jpg|alt=Yuanlingpao (court robe), Qing dynasty, 19th century.|''Yuanlingpao'' (court robe), Qing dynasty, 19th century<ref>{{Cite web |title=Court Robe - 19th century |url=https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/70363 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211223152511/https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/70363 |archive-date=2021-12-23 |access-date=2021-12-23 |website=www.metmuseum.org}}</ref> File:MET 45 86 2 F.jpeg|alt=A woman's wedding yuanlingshan, closes with buttons on the right side.|A woman's wedding ''yuanlingshan'', also known as {{Transliteration|zh|mangao}}, closes with buttons on the right side. It was typically worn together with a skirt known as {{Transliteration|zh|mangchu}}. File:MET 13230.jpg|A child's ''yuanlingpao'', 19th century File:Hong Xiuquan's Silk Dragon Robe (10151794584).jpg|Hong Xiuquan's silk Dragon robe </gallery>
==Wedding garment{{Anchor|Wedding Garment}}== {{See also|Traditional Chinese wedding dress}}
The {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} of officials and nobles also served as a form of wedding attire for commoners. The groom wears a type of headwear known as {{Transliteration|zh|wushamao}} and a {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} of a 9th-rank official. The bride wears a type of headwear known as {{Transliteration|zh|fengguan}} and a red {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} or {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingshan}} with a {{Transliteration|zh|xiapei}} of a noblewoman.{{Clear}}
== Influence and derivatives{{Anchor|Influence and Derivatives}} == === Korea === ==== Dallyeong ==== left|thumb|252x252px|Three {{transliteration|ko|dallyeong}} from the Museum of Traditional Korean Music, Korea In Korea, the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} was introduced during the Tang dynasty and became known as the {{transliteration|ko|dallyeong}} ({{Korean|hangul=단령|hanja=團領|rr=danryeong}}; {{IPA|ko|daɭjʌoŋ}}).<ref name=":5">{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ivZ0DwAAQBAJ&q=joseon+ming+uniforms&pg=PA116|title=Fashion, identity, and power in modern Asia|date=2018|publisher=Springer |editor=Kyunghee Pyun |editor2=Aida Yuen Wong|isbn=978-3-319-97199-5|location=Cham, Switzerland|page=116|oclc=1059514121}} [https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1059514121 Alt URL]</ref> During the rule of Queen Jindeok of Silla, Kim Chunchu personally travelled to the Tang dynasty to request for clothing and belts and voluntarily accepted the official uniform system of the Tang dynasty, which included the {{transliteration|ko|dallyeong}} among many other clothing items.<ref>{{Cite journal|last1=Ju-Ri|first1=Yu|last2=Jeong-Mee|first2=Kim|date=2006|title=A Study on Costume Culture Interchange Resulting from Political Factors|url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200614222982427.page|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles|volume=30|issue=3|pages=458–469|issn=1225-1151}}</ref> Since then, the {{transliteration|ko|dallyeong}} continued to be worn until the end of Joseon.<ref name=":5" /> In the late Goryeo period, under the reign of King U, the {{transliteration|ko|dallyeong}} was adopted as an official {{transliteration|ko|gwanbok}} when the official uniform system of the Ming dynasty was imported.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Choi |first=Eunsoo |title=Dallyeong (團領) |url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/en/topic/detail/6928 |access-date=2022-06-15 |website=Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture |language=}}</ref>
==== Wonsam ==== The initial shape of the {{transliteration|ko|wonsam}} worn by women from the 15th to 16th century was similar to the {{transliteration|ko|dallyeong}} and included the use of a collar which was similar to the {{transliteration|ko|dallyeong}}-style collar.<ref>{{Cite journal|last1=Lim|first1=Hyunjoo|last2=Cho|first2=Hyosook|date=2013|title=A Study on the Periodic Characteristics of Wonsam in the Joseon Dynasty|url=http://koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO201310635656201.page|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume|volume=63|issue=2|pages=29–44|doi=10.7233/jksc.2013.63.2.029|s2cid=191358407 |issn=1229-6880|doi-access=free}}</ref>
=== Japan === In Japan, the formal court attire for men and women was established by the start of the 8th century and was based on the court attire of the Tang dynasty.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Yarwood|first=Doreen|title=Illustrated encyclopedia of world costume|date=2011|publisher=Dover Publications, Inc|isbn=978-0-486-43380-6|location=Mineola, N.Y.|page=248|oclc=678535823}}</ref> The round collared robe called {{nihongo3|||ho}} in the {{nihongo3||束帯|Sokutai}}, which was worn by the Japanese Emperors, and the noblemen,<ref>{{Cite book|title=Traditional Japanese literature: an anthology, beginnings to 1600|date=2012|publisher=Columbia University Press|editor=Haruo Shirane|isbn=978-0-231-50453-9|edition=Abridged|location=New York|page=84|oclc=823377029}}</ref> was adopted from the {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}}.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Dress - Japan |url=https://www.britannica.com/topic/dress-clothing |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220423180835/https://www.britannica.com/topic/dress-clothing |archive-date=2022-04-23 |access-date=2021-04-02 |website=Encyclopedia Britannica |language=en}}</ref>
According to the Ming dynasty's Government letter against Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the Ming Government bestowed on him a set of {{zhp|p=changfu|c=常服羅|l=}} containing a red {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} with {{Transliteration|zh|qilin}} mandarin square ({{zhi|c=大紅織金胷背麒麟圓領|l=}}), a dark blue {{zhp|p=dahu|c=青褡護|l=}}, and a green {{zhp|p=tieli|c=綠貼裏|l=}}.
=== Vietnam ===
==== Áo viên lĩnh ==== According to the book ''Weaving a realm'' by the Vietnam Center, the {{lang|vi|áo viên lĩnh}} ({{Lang-vi-hantu|襖圓領}}), a 4-long flap robe with a round neck,<ref>{{Cite web |date=2019-10-08 |title=Vietnamese woman revives country's ancient clothes |url=https://tuoitrenews.vn/news/lifestyle/20191008/vietnamese-woman-revives-countrys-ancient-clothes/51492.html |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191008162825/https://tuoitrenews.vn/news/lifestyle/20191008/vietnamese-woman-revives-countrys-ancient-clothes/51492.html |archive-date=2019-10-08 |access-date=2021-06-30 |website=Tuoi Tre News |language=en-US}}</ref> was imported to Vietnam from China.<ref name=":8">{{Cite web |last=Nguyen |first=Hannah |date=2020-06-14 |title=Weaving a Realm: Bilingual book introduces Vietnam's costumes from the 15th century |url=https://vietnamtimes.org.vn/weaving-a-realm-bilingual-book-introduces-vietnams-costumes-from-the-15th-century-21382.html |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200718032259/https://vietnamtimes.org.vn/weaving-a-realm-bilingual-book-introduces-vietnams-costumes-from-the-15th-century-21382.html |archive-date=2020-07-18 |access-date=2021-07-01 |website=Vietnam Times |language=en}}</ref> However, this fashion gradually faded away from their daily lives due to the clothing reforms decreed by the Nguyen lords.<ref name=":8" /><gallery mode="packed"> File:Zhúlín dà shì chūshān tú 3.jpg|Men wearing {{lang|vi|áo viên lĩnh}}, painting from The Mahasattva Trúc Lâm Coming Out of the Mountains, 1363 File:Trang phục người Đàng Trong 1675 - Clothing of people of Đàng Trong, 1675.jpg|{{lang|vi|Áo viên lĩnh}} of Vietnamese people in Đàng Trong, 1675 File:Văn quan vinh quy đồ 2.jpg|{{lang|vi|Áo viên lĩnh}} in the Lê dynasty </gallery>
== See also == *{{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}} *List of {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}} *{{Transliteration|zh|Panling Lanshan}} *{{Transliteration|zh|Fanlingpao}}
== Notes == {{Reflist|group=note}}
== References == {{Reflist}}
== External links == * [https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/Dressing-for-the-Times%3A-Fashion-in-Tang-Dynasty-Chen/4fe43667238f71e66fc71bb6603aea876b95e093/figure/16 Yuanlingpao decorated Central Asian roundels as partial decorations] * ''[https://vietnamcentre.org/en/project/weaving-a-realm-book-crowdfunding-project/ Weaving a realm]''
{{Types of Han Chinese clothing}} {{Folk costume}}
Category:Hanfu Category:Robes and cloaks