Fanlingpao

{{Short description|Lapel robes categorized as Hufu}} {{Infobox Chinese | pic = 韋貴妃墓儀衛圖 (fanligpao yuanlingpao panling lanshan)|150px | lang1 = English | lang1_content = Lapel robes or Hufu | piccap = From left to right: fanlingpao, yuanlingpao, panling lanshan, Tang dynasty tomb murals. | c = 翻领袍 | p = Fānlǐngpáo | l = Lapel robe }}

'''{{tlit|zh|Fanlingpao}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c=翻领袍|p=fānlǐngpáo|l=Lapel robe}}), sometimes referred to as '''{{tlit|zh|kuapao}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c=袴袍}}) and '''{{tlit|zh|hufu}}''' (Chinese: 胡服) in the Tang dynasty when they feature double overturned lapels, is a type of paofu with lapels. It was categorized as Hufu instead of Hanfu due to its association with clothing of the foreigners who came from the Silk road.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web |date=2021-03-02 |title=Changes in Ancient Chinese Women's Hanfu Clothing - 2022 |url=https://www.newhanfu.com/13023.html |access-date=2022-05-27 |website=www.newhanfu.com |language=en-US}}</ref> {{tlit|zh|Fanlingpao}} were first introduced in China during the Northern Wei dynasty and became popular in Northern Qi.<ref name=":4">{{Cite journal |last=Zhao |first=Qiwang |date=2020 |title=Western Cultural Factors in Robes of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties as Well as Sui and Tang Dynasties |url=https://webofproceedings.org/proceedings_series/ART2L/ICALLH%202020/WHYWB288.pdf |journal=2020 3rd International Conference on Arts, Linguistics, Literature and Humanities (ICALLH 2020) |publisher=Francis Academic Press, UK |pages=141–147 |doi=10.25236/icallh.2020.025 |doi-broken-date=12 July 2025}}</ref> The custom of wearing {{tlit|zh|fanlingpao}} were then inherited and further developed in the Sui and Tang dynasties.<ref name=":4" /> The {{tlit|zh|fanlingpao}} could be transformed into a round collar robe, called yuanlingpao, in the Tang dynasty through the use of buttons.<ref name=":4" /> The {{tlit|zh|fanlingpao}} shows foreign influences, which are mostly likely from the Persian, Sassanian Persian, Iranian Sogdian,<ref name=":5">{{Cite thesis |last=Berman |first=Gabrielle |date=December 2020 |title=Tang Elite Women and Hufu Clothing: Persian Garments and the Artistic Rendering of Power |url=https://dc.uwm.edu/etd/2646 |type=MA thesis |publisher=University of Wisconsin–Milwaukee }}</ref><ref name=":4" /> and Turkic.<ref name=":6">{{Cite journal |last=Kubarev |first=Gleb |date=2000 |title=The robe of the old Turks of Central Asia according to art materials |url=https://www.academia.edu/9997189 |journal=Archaeology, Ethnology & Anthropology of Eurasia |publisher=Institute of Archeology and Ethnography, Siberian Branch, Russian Academy of Sciences |volume=3 |issue=3}}</ref>{{NoteTag|The Turks typically had lapel robes which closed on the left side.}} {{tlit|zh|Fanlingpao}} were popular fashion during Tang dynasty for both men and women<ref name=":0" /> and showed the popularity of Hufu-style clothing during this period; it was considered hufu while yuanlingpao was categorized as a form Hanfu.<ref name="search.proquest.com2">{{cite journal |last1=Wang |first1=Xinyi |last2=Colbert |first2=François |last3=Legoux |first3=Renaud |date=2020 |title=From Niche Interest to Fashion Trend: Hanfu Clothing as a Rising Industry in China |url=https://www.proquest.com/openview/94841c5430526c8b27950e1e941835fe/1?pq-origsite=gscholar&cbl=26212 |journal=International Journal of Arts Management |volume=23 |issue=1 |access-date=1 February 2021}}</ref>

== Terminology == {{See also|Garment collars in Hanfu}}thumb|311x311px|Foreigner's kuapao or hufu closes in the front, Tang dynasty|left Double-overturned lapel kaftan-like robe were called '''{{tlit|zh|kuapao}}''' and were referred as hufu in the Tang dynasty; {{tlit|zh|kuapao}} was characterized with tight sleeves and double overturned lapels with short overlap which closes at the front in proximity to the centre of the body (or with a front opening).<ref>{{Cite web |title=Woman's Costume in the Tang Dynasty |url=http://en.chinaculture.org/classics/2009-07/28/content_339652.htm |access-date=2022-05-27 |website=en.chinaculture.org}}</ref><ref name=":1">{{Cite book |title=China : dawn of a golden age, 200-750 AD |date=2004 |publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art |others=James C. Y. Watt, Prudence Oliver Harper, Metropolitan Museum of Art |isbn=1-58839-126-4 |location=New York |oclc=55846475}}</ref>{{Rp|page=311}}<ref name=":2">{{Cite book |title=5000 years of Chinese costumes |date=1987 |publisher=China Books & Periodicals |others=Xun Zhou, Chunming Gao, 周汛, Shanghai Shi xi qu xue xiao. Zhongguo fu zhuang shi yan jiu zu |isbn=0-8351-1822-3 |location=San Francisco, CA |oclc=19814728}}</ref>{{Rp|page=93}} The {{tlit|zh|kuapao}} could also be enriched with pattern trims or border decorations at the sleeves cuffs and along the lapels.<ref name=":3" /><ref name=":5" /> In appearance, the {{tlit|zh|kuapao}} looks similar to the kaftan with lapels and slim sleeves used by the Persian.<ref name=":3" /> This form of lapel robe originated from Central Asia and was typically worn by men.<ref name=":3" />

The term {{tlit|zh|kuapao}} was sometimes used to refer to double over-turned {{tlit|zh|fanlingpao}} with tight sleeves, which overlaps at the front and closes on the right side of the body near the armpit in the Tang dynasty.<ref name=":3">{{Cite thesis |title=Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) |url=https://doi.org/10.7916/D8KK9B6D |publisher=Columbia University |date=2013 |doi=10.7916/d8kk9b6d |language=en |first=Bu Yun |last=Chen}}</ref><ref name=":5" />{{NoteTag|Author Chen Buyun describes the kuapao as having a "front opening"; however, the images provided shows a double over-turned lapel robe which overlaps at the front and closes on the right side of the body near the armpit.}} This form of overlapping closure to the right is a traditional Han Chinese characteristic, which was sometimes adopted by foreigners and/or non-Han Chinese, who had borrowed Chinese elements.<ref name=":7">{{Cite journal |last=Yatsenko |first=Sergey A |date=2019 |title=Some Notes on Sogdian Costume in Early Tang China |url=https://edspace.american.edu/silkroadjournal/2020/03/03/vol-17-now-available/ |journal=The Journal of the Silk Road House |publisher=The Silk Road |volume=17 |pages=65–73}}</ref><ref name=":6" /><ref name=":23" />{{NoteTag|This includes the Sogdians and the Turks, who typically closed their robes on the left side.}}

== History == thumb|250x250px|Fanlingpao overlapping and closing on the right side, Northern Wei dynasty. Lapels robes originated from Western Asia and were popular in Central Asian in the Sogdian region, in Qiuci, and Gaochang.<ref name=":4" /> Lapels robes were spread eastward through the Sogdians.<ref name=":4" /> Lapel robes were first introduced in the north region of China during the Northern Wei dynasty.<ref name=":4" /> The earliest depictions of Xianbei and Han Chinese people wearing lapel robes in China also date back to the Northern Wei dynasty.<ref name=":4" /> left|thumb|214x214px|Sogdian wearing lapel robes<ref name=":23" /> (kuapao-style), Northern Qi. All of their robes overlap on the left side, except one at the far right, which is close on the right side. They close at the centre of the body The Sogdians, who lived in China, were most influential between the second half of the 6th century and the beginning of the 7th century. The Sogdians and their descendants (mostly from the merchant class) who lived in China during this period also wore a form of knee-length, yuanlingpao-like kaftan that retained their own ethnic characteristics but also showed some influences from East Asia (i.e., Chinese and early Turks).<ref name=":23">{{Cite book |last=Yatsenko |first=Sergey A. |url=https://www.academia.edu/11688661 |title=Serica - Da Qin, Studies in Archaeology, Philology and History on Sino-Western Relations |publisher=Wydawnictwo GAJT |others=G. Malinowski, A. Paron, B. Szmoniewski, Wroclaw |year=2012 |isbn=9788362584406 |edition=1 |pages=101–114 |chapter=Sogdian Costume in Chinese and Sogdian Art of the 6th-8th centuries}}</ref>{{NoteTag|Sogdian men wore Sogdian clothing but not their women. According to the Yi Zhou Shu, Sogdian women used the Chinese clothing. The manner these men wore their Sogdian robes were not exactly the same as the way they dress themselves in their motherland, Sogdia.}} thumb|150x150px|Non-Chinese lapel robe (only one lapel down) with short overlap on the left closing on the front, Kizil caves. Under the influence and the demands of the Chinese population, as well as Chinese traditions, most Sogdian attire in China had to be closed to the right.<ref name=":23" /> Their robes were versatile, it could often be transformed into a yuanlingpao-like robe by buttoning up the neck to form the round collar or occasionally have their lower button undone allowing their collars to be form lapels, becoming lapel robes.<ref name=":23" />{{NoteTag|They would wear their kaftans button-up more often and only button off for certain activities or occupation (such as dancers, hunters, etc).}} The Sogdians in China and Sogdia had both lapels down following the Iranian tradition or the tradition of the Saka people living in the Khotan Oasis.<ref name=":23" />{{NoteTag|Styling their robes in double lapels were not popular among the Turks of the Great Turkic Qaghanate (552–630) but were worn by the Sogdians in Sogdia and in China.}} It was however not rare for Chinese Sogdians to wear their robes with only the left lapel, which was a distinguishing feature as the only left lapel robe was rarely found (almost unknown) in Sogdia.<ref name=":23" /> By the Northern Qi dynasty, lapel robes had become popular in the Han Chinese regions and were worn by both men and women.<ref name=":4" /> The wearing custom lapel robes were then inherited and further developed in the Sui and Tang dynasties.<ref name=":4" />

=== Sui and Tang dynasties === thumb|185x185px|Woman wearing a fanlingpao (kuapao-style), Hufu-style fashion, Tang dynasty {{tlit|zh|Fanlingpao}} worn during the Tang dynasty was categorized as Hufu.<ref name=":15">{{Cite book |last=Hua |first=Mei |title=Chinese clothing |date=2011 |isbn=978-0-521-18689-6 |edition=Updated |location=Cambridge, United Kingdom |pages= |oclc=781020660}}</ref>{{Rp|page=27}} It was very popular in the Tang dynasty during the Kaiyuan and Tianbao era during the reign of Emperor Xuanzong.<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=93}} During the Tang dynasty, hufu was influenced by foreign cultures which came from the Silk road;<ref name=":3" /> most likely from the Persian, Sassanian Persian, Iranian Sogdian,<ref name=":5" /> and the Turkic people.<ref name=":6" />left|thumb|213x213px|Fanlingpao, Tang dynastyFrom the 7th to the 8th century, the {{tlit|zh|kuapao}} and {{tlit|zh|fanlingpao}}-like robes were popular;<ref name=":3" /><ref name=":5" /><ref name=":4" /> it was especially popular during the Wuzetian period (684 –704 AD).<ref name=":15" />{{Rp|page=27}} The {{tlit|zh|fanlingpao}} of the preceding dynasties were further developed in the Tang dynasty; such that it could be transformed into the yuanlingpao by buttoning up three buttons on the collar.<ref name=":4" /> It overlaps and closed to the right side, which follows the traditional Han Chinese system.<ref name=":6" /> While adopting certain elements from foreign dress (e.g. Sogdian and Turk lapel robes), the Chinese however maintain their traditional way of closing their {{tlit|zh|fanglingpao}} on the right side.<ref name=":6" /><ref name=":7" /> The {{tlit|zh|kuapao}} was also worn by women, who would wear it to cross-dress as men.<ref name=":3" /> It could be used as a jacket and was thrown over the shoulders like a cloak, which made women looked more masculine.<ref name=":1" />{{Rp|page=311}}<ref name=":3" /> It was worn with stripped trousers and leather waist-belt with leather strip attached to the belt.<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=93}}{{NoteTag|According to Gao et al (1987), this type of leather belt was also originated from northern minorities and was introduced in Central plain during the Wei and Jin period.}}

==== Huihuzuang ==== thumb|162x162px|Uyghur lapel robes, c. 8th-9th century. A new style of {{tlit|zh|fanlingpao}} which was classified as a Uyghur dress was worn by the 9th century; this form of {{tlit|zh|fanlingpao}} also had turned-down lapels,<ref name=":8">{{Cite journal |last=Chen |first=BuYun |date=2017-01-02 |title=Material Girls: Silk and Self-Fashioning in Tang China (618–907) |url=https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1138679 |journal=Fashion Theory |volume=21 |issue=1 |pages=5–33 |doi=10.1080/1362704X.2016.1138679 |s2cid=155949571 |issn=1362-704X|url-access=subscription }}</ref> but they were also different from the previous lapel robes. It was long enough to reach the ground, voluminous, and the sleeves were slim-fitting.<ref name=":8" /><ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=98}} This form of lapel robe was referred as {{zhp|p=Huihuzhuang|c=回鶻装|tr=costumes in Uyghur style}};<ref name="中国传统服饰" /> the Huihu were the predecessors of the Uyghur.<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=98}} The Huihuzhuang was produced for the women of Han ethnic and had been inspired by the robes of Huihu women.<ref name="中国传统服饰" /> The upper part of the robe was loose and had decorative patterns (or borders) on the collar and sleeves cuffs.<ref name="中国传统服饰">{{cite book |last1=臧 |first1=迎春 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=m7Qf-bjLfA4C&q=tang+dynasty+veil&pg=PT17 |script-title=zh:中国传统服饰 |date=2003 |publisher=五洲传播出版社 |others=Translated by 臧迎春 and 李竹润 |isbn=7508502795 |editor1-last=臧 |editor1-first=迎春 |trans-title=Chinese traditional costumes and ornaments}}</ref><ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=98}} Based on the reconstruction from the Dunhuang frescoes, the Huihuzhuang had an overlapping front which could be closed with ties on the right or left side.<ref name="中国传统服饰" /><ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=|pages=98-99}} Warm, colours were preferred, and the colour red was typically used; it was also generally made of thick brocade.<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=98}} The Huihuzhuang was very popular among the Tang dynasty's aristocratic women and the women of the imperial court.<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=98}} The rise of Uyghur-style robe occurred after the rebellion of An Lushan, when Uyghur culture grew along with their military power.<ref name=":82">{{cite book |last1=Benn |first1=Charles D. |url=https://archive.org/details/dailylifeintradi00benn |title=Daily Life in Traditional China: The Tang Dynasty |date=2002 |publisher=Greenwood Publishing Group |isbn=0313309558 |edition=illustrated |series=Greenwood Press "Daily life through history" series |page=[https://archive.org/details/dailylifeintradi00benn/page/n133 106] |issn=1080-4749 |url-access=registration}}</ref>

== Gallery == <gallery caption="Fanlingpao and kuapao in the Sui and Tang dynasties"> File:Sui Painted Pottery Attendant 01.jpg|Attendant wearing lapel robe (right overlap and closes at the front), Sui dynasty File:Dinastia tang, tre falconieri, cina del nord, VIII sec.JPG|''Sancai'' figures wearing fanlingpao (kuapao-style), overlaps on the right and closes to the right, Tang dynasty. File:Woman wearing hufu in Tang Dynasty.jpg|Tang dynasty woman wearing kuapao, a ''hufu''-style fashion. File:Museum für Indische Kunst Dahlem Berlin Mai 2006 061.jpg|Kuapao worn as a cloak </gallery>

== Notes == {{Reflist|group=note}}

== References == {{Reflist}}

== External links == * ''[https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/Dressing-for-the-Times%3A-Fashion-in-Tang-Dynasty-Chen/4fe43667238f71e66fc71bb6603aea876b95e093/figure/17 Kuapao]''

Category:Chinese traditional clothing Category:Culture of the Tang dynasty Category:Northern Qi Category:Northern Wei Category:Culture of the Sui dynasty Category:Robes and cloaks