{{Short description|Chinese clothing}} {{Infobox Chinese | c = 盤領襴衫 | p = Pánlǐng lánshān | pic = Panling lanshan2|100px | piccap = Panling lanshan worn by scholars' and students' formal wear | c2 = 襴衫 | p2 = lánshān | hangul = 난삼 | hanja = 襴(幱/欄)衫 | rr = Namsam }}
'''Panling lanshan''' ({{lang-zh|c=盤領襴衫}}), also referred to as {{zhp|p='''lanshan'''|c=襴衫}}, is a traditional Chinese attire for men. It is a specific form of round collar robe, known as yuanlingpao, which is characterized with the use of hem, called {{zhp|p=hanglan|c=横襕}}, also referred as {{zhp|p=lan|c=襕}}.<ref name=":5" /><ref name=":4" /> The panling lanshan was a new type of garment, developed in the Northern and Southern dynasties through the localization of the round-collar garments which had been introduced by the ethnic minorities, such as the Xianbei.<ref name=":4" /> Panling lanshan continued to be worn in the Tang dynasty.<ref>{{citation|last=周锡保|url=https://www.scribd.com/doc/6962525/|page=179|publication-date=Oct 1986|edition=2nd|publisher=中国戏剧出版社|language=Chinese|format=PDF|script-title=zh:《中国古代服饰史》|accessdate=May 17, 2009}}</ref><ref>{{citation|last=朱和平|url=https://www.scribd.com/doc/7136914/|page=222|publication-date=July 2001|edition=1st|publisher=中州古籍出版社|language=Chinese|format=PDF|script-title=zh:《中国服饰史稿》|accessdate=May 20, 2009}}</ref> The panling lanshan along with the {{zhp|p=futou|c=幞頭|tr=black cap}} was used as the Tang dynasty attire of scholars and officials.<ref name=":0">{{Cite journal|last=Ka Shing|first=Charles|date=2014-01-01|title=The Development of Academic Dress in China|url=https://newprairiepress.org/burgonsociety/vol14/iss1/7|journal=Transactions of the Burgon Society|volume=14|issue=1|pages=60–68|doi=10.4148/2475-7799.1119|issn=2475-7799|doi-access=free}}</ref> The scholars' attire in the succeeding dynasties followed the style of the ''panling lanshan'' of the Tang dynasty.<ref name=":0" /> It is also a formal attire worn by scholars and students ({{lang|zh|生員}}) taking the imperial examination in Ming dynasty.
== History == {{Main|Hufu|Yuanlingshan}} Round collar robes, including the {{zhp|p=panling|c=盤領}} robes, were introduced during the Northern and Southern dynasties by the Xianbei.<ref name=":4">{{Cite journal |last=유혜영 |date=1992 |title=돈황석굴벽화에 보이는 일반복식의 연구 |url=https://dspace.ewha.ac.kr/handle/2015.oak/192241}}</ref> The panling robes introduced by the Xianbei became a form of daily clothing for the Han Chinese during this period; it was then sinicized and fully integrated into the Han Chinese Clothing system through the adoption of Han Chinese tradition, such as the ''lan'' (seam) at the hem and basing itself on the shenyi-making system.<ref name=":4" /><ref name=":5">{{Cite web |title=Chinese Traditional Costume - Lanshan for Scholars - 2022 |url=https://www.newhanfu.com/7784.html |access-date=2022-03-29 |website=www.newhanfu.com |date=28 November 2020 |language=en-US}}</ref> It was further developed and standardized in the succeeding dynasties: Tang, Song, and Ming dynasties.<ref name=":5" />
In the Tang dynasty, the lanshan had narrow sleeves inheriting the northern dynasty clothing system.<ref name=":5" /> The lanshan worn with by scholars and officials in this period was red in colour, and it was worn with a hat called futou.<ref name=":0" />
In the Song dynasty, the lanshan developed wide sleeves and the robe became increasingly wider as it returned to a more traditional Han Chinese style due to the shift in preferences for civilization over militarism.<ref name=":5" /> The lanshan also changed in colour becoming white or off-white.<ref name=":5" />
White lanshan continued to be worn in the Ming dynasty.<ref name=":5" /> A new form of lanshan also appeared in the Ming dynasty and was blue in colour'<ref name=":5" />
== Design and construction ==
=== Panling lanshan for scholars === The panling lanshan lanshan for scholars is wide sleeved, has black edges, and has a round collar secured with a button. A crossed-collar undergarment must be worn beneath it. It may or may not have side slits (with side panels ({{lang|zh|暗擺}}) to conceal the undergarment).
<gallery> File:Imperial Encyclopaedia - Ceremonial Usages - pic475 - 襴衫.png|{{zhp|p=Lanshan|c=襴衫}}, a vectorization of an illustration from the Chinese encyclopedia ''Complete Classics Collection of Ancient China'' ({{lang|zh|古今圖書集成}}). File:Artifact hanfu8.jpg|Artifact of panling lanshan File:Panling6.jpg|Portrait of man wearing Song-style panling lanshan File:士人襴衫像.jpg|Ming dynasty man wearing panling lanshan. File:戴昕.jpg File:Panling lanshan.jpg|Man wearing panling lanshan File:王元瑞.jpg File:馮從吾.jpg|Feng Cong Wu (1556－1627 AD), politician of the Ming dynasty. </gallery>
== Korean version == In Korea, the lanshan was called {{tlit|ko|nansam}} ({{Korean|hangul=난삼 |hanja=襴(幱/欄)衫}}).<ref name=":1">{{Cite web |last=Lee |first=Soonja |date=1995 |script-title=ko:난삼(襴(幱)衫) |url=http://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Contents/Item/E0011701 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220329012219/http://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Contents/Item/E0011701 |archive-date=2022-03-29 |access-date=2021-05-09 |website=Encyclopedia of Korean Culture}}</ref><ref name=":3" /> The {{tlit|ko|nansam}} was adopted from the ancient Chinese system and was worn as the official costume of students who had passed the civil service examination in Joseon by King Yeonjo.<ref name=":2">{{Cite journal |last=Hong |first=Na-young |date=1997 |title=A Study of Changes in Scholar's Costume During Chosun Dynasty - Centering on Sungkyunkwan Student's Uniform- |url=http://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO199711920236162.page |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles |volume=21 |issue=3 |pages=621–631 |issn=1225-1151}}</ref><ref name=":3">{{Cite journal |last=李順子 |date=1978 |script-title=ko:欄杉의 硏究 |trans-title=(A) study on Nensam (欄杉) |url=http://dspace.ewha.ac.kr/handle/2015.oak/182985 |journal=이화여자대학교 대학원}}</ref>
In Joseon, students also wore a similar robe called {{tlit|ko|aengsam}} ({{Korean|hangul=앵삼 |hanja=鶯衫|labels=no}}). The {{tlit|ko|aengsam}} appears to be similar to the Chinese {{tlit|ko|nansam}} but with a different colour.<ref name=":1" /><ref name=":3" /> The word {{tlit|ko|aeng}} from {{tlit|ko|aengsam}} is literally translated as "nightingale" due to its yellow colour which is the same as the colour of the nightingale.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Aengsam (Yellow-green Robe for the Successful) |url=https://museum.dankook.ac.kr/en/web/museum/-15?p_p_id=Relic_WAR_museumportlet&p_p_lifecycle=0&p_p_state=normal&p_p_mode=view&p_p_col_id=column-2&p_p_col_count=1&_Relic_WAR_museumportlet_RELIC_NB=B000064&_Relic_WAR_museumportlet_orderBy=name&_Relic_WAR_museumportlet_curPage=59&_Relic_WAR_museumportlet_action=view_message |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220329012912/https://museum.dankook.ac.kr/en/web/museum/-15?p_p_id=Relic_WAR_museumportlet&p_p_lifecycle=0&p_p_state=normal&p_p_mode=view&p_p_col_id=column-2&p_p_col_count=1&_Relic_WAR_museumportlet_RELIC_NB=B000064&_Relic_WAR_museumportlet_orderBy=name&_Relic_WAR_museumportlet_curPage=59&_Relic_WAR_museumportlet_action=view_message |archive-date=2022-03-29 |access-date=2021-05-09 |website=museum.dankook.ac.kr |language=en}}</ref> The ''aengsam'' was worn during the national government examination and governmental ceremonies as a type of formal clothing.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.nms.ac.uk/media/1161839/east-asia-collections-in-scotland.pdf|title=East Asian Collections in Scottish Museums|publisher=National Museums Scotland|year=2020|pages=104}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=Official/Court clothing|url=http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=official|access-date=2021-05-09|website=www.lifeinkorea.com}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |script-title=ko:앵삼 鶯衫 |trans-title=Aengsam (Yellow-green Robe for the Successful State Examinee) |url=https://museum.dankook.ac.kr/web/museum/-15?p_p_id=Relic_WAR_museumportlet&p_p_lifecycle=0&p_p_state=normal&p_p_mode=view&p_p_col_id=column-2&p_p_col_count=1&_Relic_WAR_museumportlet_RELIC_NB=B000064&_Relic_WAR_museumportlet_orderBy=name&_Relic_WAR_museumportlet_curPage=59&_Relic_WAR_museumportlet_action=view_message |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220329021822/https://museum.dankook.ac.kr/web/museum/-15?p_p_id=Relic_WAR_museumportlet&p_p_lifecycle=0&p_p_state=normal&p_p_mode=view&p_p_col_id=column-2&p_p_col_count=1&_Relic_WAR_museumportlet_RELIC_NB=B000064&_Relic_WAR_museumportlet_orderBy=name&_Relic_WAR_museumportlet_curPage=59&_Relic_WAR_museumportlet_action=view_message |archive-date=2022-03-29 |access-date=2021-05-09 |website=museum.dankook.ac.kr |language=ko}}</ref> It appears that the ''aengsam'' started to be worn in the late Joseon period.<ref name=":2" /><ref name=":3" />
== Similar looking garments ==
* Yuanlingshan * Shenyi
==See also== *Han Chinese clothing *List of Han Chinese clothing *Fanlingpao - Lapel robes
==References== {{reflist}}
{{Types of Han Chinese clothing}}
Category:Chinese traditional clothing Category:Robes and cloaks