Banbi

{{Short description|Short sleeved clothing}} {{About|the traditional short-sleeved upper garment|the beizi with long sleeves|Beizi}} {{Infobox Chinese | c = 半臂 | c3 = | l = half-arm | l2 = half-sleeve | p = Bànbì | p2 = Bànxiù | pic = Banbi 1|100px | piccap = Woman wearing a duijin banbi. | hangul = 반비 | hanja = 半臂 | kanji = 半臂 | hiragana = はんぴ | altname = | c2 = 半袖 | romaji = Hanpi }}'''{{Transliteration|zh|Banbi}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c=半臂|l=half-arm}}),<ref name=":0">{{Cite journal|last=Chen|first=BuYun|date=2017-01-02|title=Material Girls: Silk and Self-Fashioning in Tang China (618–907)|url=https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1138679|journal=Fashion Theory|volume=21|issue=1|pages=5–33|doi=10.1080/1362704X.2016.1138679|s2cid=155949571|issn=1362-704X|url-access=subscription}}</ref> also known as {{zhp|p='''banxiu'''|c=半袖|l=half-sleeves}}<ref name=":7">{{Cite web |last=张 |first=国伟 |date=2013 |script-title=zh:元代半臂的形制与渊源 |url=http://www.cqvip.com/qk/87950x/201301/45743683.html |script-quote=zh:半臂又做半袖,到元代也称搭护。}}</ref>, is an upper garment item in {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}}. It was sometimes referred to as {{zhp|p='''beizi'''|c=褙子|l=}} or '''half-beizi''' (i.e. short-sleeved beizi) before the term {{tlit|zh|beizi}} eventually came to refer to a long-sleeved beizi in the Song dynasty,<ref name=":12">{{Cite book |last1=Zhu |first1=Ruixi |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=40elDQAAQBAJ&dq=tang%20dynasty%20beizi&pg=PA18 |title=A social history of middle-period China : the Song, Liao, Western Xia and Jin dynasties |last2=朱瑞熙 |date=2016 |publisher=Cambridge University Press |others=Bangwei Zhang, Fusheng Liu, Chongbang Cai, Zengyu Wang, Peter Ditmanson, Bang Qian Zhu |isbn=978-1-107-16786-5 |edition=Updated |location=Cambridge, United Kingdom |pages=17–18 |oclc=953576345}}</ref> and referred as '''{{Transliteration|zh|dahu}}''' in the Yuan dynasty<ref name=":7" />. The {{Transliteration|zh|banbi}} is in the form of a waistcoat or outerwear with short sleeves, which could either be worn over or under a long-sleeved {{Transliteration|zh|ruqun}}.<ref name=":0" /> The style of its collar varies. It can be secured at the front either with ties or a metal button.<ref name=":4">{{Cite web|title=Hanfu Making(7) - Banbi Cutting & Sewing Patterns - 2021|url=https://www.newhanfu.com/18492.html|access-date=2021-12-20|website=www.newhanfu.com|date=4 August 2021 |language=en-US}}</ref>

== Classification == {{See also|Garment collars in Hanfu}} There were various forms of banbi throughout history. In present days, the different forms of banbi are generally classified based on their collar shapes: e.g. {{zhp|p=duijin|c=对襟}} which is straight or parallel in shape; {{zhp|p=jiaoling|c=交领}} which is cross-collared in shape; {{zhp|p=tanling|c=坦领}} which is U-shaped,<ref>{{Cite web|date=2019|title=About Ruqun, You Should Know These - 2021|url=https://www.newhanfu.com/487.html|url-status=live|access-date=2021-12-20|website=www.newhanfu.com|language=en-US|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210515182608/https://www.newhanfu.com/487.html |archive-date=2021-05-15 }}</ref><ref name=":4" /> {{zhp|p=yuanling|c=圆领}} which is round-collared in shape; and {{zhp|p=fangling|c=方领|l=}} which is squared-collared in shape.

== History ==

=== Ancient === {{See also|Ru (upper garment)}} According to the Chinese records, the {{Transliteration|zh|banbi}} was a clothing style, which was invented from the {{zhp|p=duanru|c=短襦|l=short jacket}} that the Chinese wear.<ref name="bz">{{cite journal|author=Wang Qiao-ling|title=Women Fashion of Tang Dynasty and Foreign Cultural Communication |journal=Journal of Zhejiang Wanli University |volume=21|pages=1–3 |year=2008 |url=https://library.ttcdw.com/dev/upload/webUploader/202307/16899205695220bd0dec0bf697.pdf}}</ref> It was first designated as a waistcoat for palace maids, but its popularity soon reached the commoners.<ref name="bz" /> It was recorded in the Book of Jin, when Emperor Ming of Wei met Yang Fu, the emperor himself was dressed in commoner's {{Transliteration|zh|banbi}}.<ref name="bz" /><ref>{{lang|zh|《晋书·五 行志》云:"魏明帝著绣帽,披缭纵半袖,以见直臣。"}}</ref><gallery caption="Han dynasty banbi"> File:DinastíaHan20100102051853SAM 2873.jpg|A woman wearing a cross-collared banbi, Han dynasty. File:Woman with a mirror, China, unearthed at Songjialin, Pixian, Sichuan, Eastern Han dynasty, 25-220 AD, ceramic - Sichuan Provincial Museum - Chengdu, China - DSC04768.jpg|Woman wearing a cross-collared banbi, Eastern Han dynasty, 25–220 AD. </gallery> <gallery caption="Cao Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties"> File:Procession of the Empress as Donor with Her Court, Chinese, from the Binyang Cave, Longmen, Henan Province, Norther Wei Dynasty, about 522 - Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art - DSC09118.JPG|A woman wearing a parallel collar banbi, Northern Wei dynasty, about 522 AD. File:Southern Dynasties Brick Relief 06.jpg|Women wearing parallel collar banbi, Southern Dynasties Brick Relief. </gallery>

=== Tang dynasty === {{See also|Tanling ruqun}}

During Tang dynasty, the banbi was worn by men and women.<ref name=":1">{{Cite journal |last=李 |first=鳳淑 |date=1983 |script-title=ko:답호에 關한 硏究 |trans-title=(A) study of Dapho |url=http://dspace.ewha.ac.kr/handle/2015.oak/206295 |script-journal=ko:이화여자대학교 대학원}}</ref> The banbi was a staple clothing item for the Tang dynasty women, along with shan (a blouse which could be low cut during this period) and high-waisted skirts.<ref name=":5">{{Cite thesis|title=Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907)|url=https://doi.org/10.7916/D8KK9B6D|publisher=Columbia University|date=2013|doi=10.7916/d8kk9b6d|language=en|first=Bu Yun|last=Chen}}</ref> The banbi was worn on the shan.<ref name=":1" /><ref name=":5"/> The banbi could either be worn under or over the skirt.<ref name=":0" /> Banbi could also be worn under the yuanlingshan.<ref name=":5"/> [[File:Kizil_Caves,_Red_Dome_Room.jpg|thumb|388x388px|Women of Qiuci wearing U-shaped banbi (middle) which shares similarities in shapes and customs with those worn in the early Tang dynasty, Kizil caves.<ref name=":6">{{Cite book|last1=Zhao|first1=Qiwang|last2=Lyu|first2=Qianyun|date=2020|chapter=Western Cultural Factors in Robes of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties as Well as Sui and Tang Dynasties|title=2020 3rd International Conference on Arts, Linguistics, Literature and Humanities|pages=141–147|doi=10.25236/icallh.2020.025|doi-broken-date=11 July 2025|chapter-url=https://webofproceedings.org/proceedings_series/ART2L/ICALLH%202020/WHYWB288.pdf}}</ref>]] During Tang dynasty, there was another form of banbi or short sleeve waistcoat worn called {{zhp|p='''kedang'''|c=袔裆}}. The sleeve covers around the shoulder area and there is no opening in the front or back. In order to wear it, people would have to tuck in, then out from the neck of the clothing. Generally, it's worn outside of a long sleeve shirt. In the {{zhi|out=tr|tr=Legend of Huo Xiao Yu|c=崔小玉传}} that was written during Tang dynasty, the main female character Huo Xiaoyu wear this style most of the time.<ref name="bz" /><ref>[http://oldbeijing.org/Article/Class81/Class89/7449.shtml Information on Civilian Clothings {{lang|zh|不拘一格说便服}}] {{dead link|date=July 2016 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }} oldbeijing.org Retrieved 2010-02-10</ref> It is suggested that a type of ''banbi'' was adopted from Central Asia during the Tang dynasty through the Silk Road when cultural exchanges were frequent, and that it was also known as ''beizi'' during Tang dynasty.<ref>{{cite journal|url=https://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO200617033616779.page|author=Yoon, Ji-Won |title=Research of the Foreign Dancing Costumes: From Han to Sui-Tang Dynasty |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식) |publisher=The Korean Society of Costume|volume=56 |pages=57–72 |year=2006 |issn=1229-6880}}</ref><ref>Kim, Sohyun. A Study on the Costume of Khotan, The Korean Society of Costume, v. 34, 169-183. 1997.{{Verify source|date=January 2010}}</ref> In the early Tang dynasty, the shape of the banbi worn in this period appears to have been mainly influenced by those worn in Qiuci, for example, the shape of the U-shaped banbi in Qiuci shared similarities with those worn in the early Tang dynasty.<ref name=":6" />

In Japan's Nara city, the Todaiji temple's Shosoin repository has 30 banbi (called {{Transliteration|ja|italic=no|hanpi}} in Japan) from Tang dynasty China; they are cross-collared closing to the right, most dating from the 8th century.<ref name=":9">{{cite book |last1=Dusenbury |first1=Mary M. |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=566AlluiHT0C&q=wanli+magistrates+attire+prototypes&pg=PA103 |title=Flowers, Dragons & Pine Trees: Asian Textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art |last2=Bier |first2=Carol |publisher=Hudson Hills |year=2004 |isbn=1555952380 |editor=Helen Foresman Spencer Museum of Art |edition=illustrated |page=}}</ref>{{Rp|page=105|pages=}} The eighth century Shosoin banbi's variety show it was in vogue at the time and most likely derived from much more ancient clothing.<ref name=":9" />{{Rp|page=106|pages=}}<gallery caption="Tang dynasty banbi"> File:Court Ladies of the Tang.jpg|Court Ladies of the Tang dressed in Banbi with scarfs wrapped around it. File:Tang Paintings of a Woman, Found in a tomb in desert of xinjiang.jpg|A painting of a lady during the Tang dynasty. File:A T'ang Dynasty Woman with Flower.jpg|A Tang dynasty Woman wearing a green, U-shaped collar banbi. File:Fresco of a T'ang Dynasty Musician.gif|Fresco of a Tang dynasty Musician wearing a loose, red cross-collared banbi. File:韋貴妃墓舞蹈圖.jpg|Fresco of a Tang dynasty Musician wearing a loose, blue cross-collared banbi. File:韋貴妃墓雙螺髻女侍圖.jpg|A Tang dynasty Woman wearing a red U-shaped collar banbi under her skirt. File:Tang Painted Pottery Figure (9833481494).jpg|The bulges at the woman's shoulders areas hints the presence of a banbi worn under yuanlingshan. File:Baby Cloth5.jpg|Baby banbi, Tang dynasty </gallery>

=== Song dynasty === In the Song dynasty, the half-beizi (i.e. banbi) was originally a military uniform which was later worn by the commoners and by the literal class.<ref name=":12" />

=== Yuan dynasty === {{Main|Fashion in the Yuan dynasty}} In the Yuan dynasty, the casual clothing for men mainly followed the dress code of the Han people and they wore banbi as a casual clothing item while ordinary women clothing consisted of banbi and ruqun.<ref name=":24">{{Cite web |title=Costume in the Yuan Dynasty---ASEAN---China Center |url=http://www.asean-china-center.org/english/2010-05/26/c_13316039.htm |access-date=2021-07-18 |website=www.asean-china-center.org}}</ref> Han Chinese women also wore a combination of a cross-collar upper garment which had elbow length sleeves (i.e. cross-collar banbi) over a long-sleeved blouse under a skirt with an abbreviated wrap skirts were also popular in Yuan;<ref name=":183">{{Cite book |last=Sun |first=Ming-ju |title=Chinese fashions |date=2002 |publisher=Dover Publications |isbn=0-486-42053-1 |location=Mineola, N.Y. |pages= |oclc=55693573}}</ref>{{Rp|pages=19–20}}<ref name=":8">{{Cite book |title=5000 years of Chinese costumes |date=1987 |publisher=China Books & Periodicals |author1=Xun Zhou 周汛 |author2=Chunming Gao |author3=Chinese Costume History Research Group of Shanghai Opera School |isbn=0-8351-1822-3 |location=San Francisco, CA |oclc=19814728}}</ref>{{Rp|page=142}} This form of set of clothing was a style which slightly deviated from the ruqun worn in the Tang and Song dynasties.<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=142}} There were several types of banbi in the Yuan dynasty: straight collar short shan with half-sleeves ({{lang|zh|直领短衫}}), a half-sleeved long robe ({{zhi|p=changpao|c= 长袍}}) with a cross-collar closing to the right ({{zhi|p=jiaoling youren|c=交领右衽}}) which was specifically called dahu (was worn by Mongol men during and prior to the founding of the Yuan dynasty<ref>{{Cite book |last=Shea |first=Eiren L. |title=Mongol court dress, identity formation, and global exchange |date=2020 |isbn=978-0-429-34065-9 |location=New York, NY |oclc=1139920835}}</ref>{{Rp|pages=43, 52}}<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|pages=139–140}}), and square-collar long robe ({{zhi|c=方领对襟长袍|p=fāng lǐng duì jīn cháng páo}} with half-sleeves.<ref>{{Cite web |last=张 |first=国伟 |date=2013 |script-title=zh:元代半臂的形制与渊源 |url=http://www.cqvip.com/qk/87950x/201301/45743683.html |script-quote=zh:提出元代半臂的三种形制,即:直领短衫式半臂、交领右衽长袍式半臂(也称搭护)、方领对襟长袍式半臂。}}</ref> <gallery> File:Shazishan Tomb Fresco, Yuan Dynasty, Chifeng Museum.jpg|Two women (right) wearing parallel collar banbi, Yuan dynasty File:Figurines, China, Cizhou ware, Yuan dynasty, 1280-1368 AD, stoneware - Östasiatiska museet, Stockholm - DSC09466.JPG|Women wearing banbi over aoqun. File:Khutughtu Khan Kusala.jpg|Khutughtu Khan wearing a dahu, Yuan dynasty, ca. 1330–32.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Vajrabhairava mandala ca. 1330–32 |url=https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/37614 |access-date=2021-07-18 |website=www.metmuseum.org}}</ref> File:Fresco in the Hall of King Ming-ying, Hung-t'ung County.jpg|Women depicted in the Fresco in the Hall of King Mingying. Han women wore elbow-length sleeves, cross-collar upper garment over a long-sleeved blouse; the abbreviated skirts were popular in Yuan.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Sun |first=Ming-ju |title=Chinese fashions |date=2002 |publisher=Dover Publications |isbn=0-486-42053-1 |location=Mineola, N.Y. |pages=19 |oclc=55693573}}</ref> </gallery>

=== Ming dynasty === In the Ming dynasty, the dahu was either a new type of banbi whose designs was influenced by the Mongol Yuan dynasty clothing.<ref name=":02">{{Cite journal |last=Wei |first=Luo |date=2018-01-02 |title=A Preliminary Study of Mongol Costumes in the Ming Dynasty |url=https://doi.org/10.1080/02529203.2018.1414417 |journal=Social Sciences in China |volume=39 |issue=1 |pages=165–185 |doi=10.1080/02529203.2018.1414417 |s2cid=149138176 |issn=0252-9203|url-access=subscription }}</ref><ref name=":23">{{Cite web |title=What is Da Hu - Chinese Traditional Male Clothing - 2021 |url=https://www.newhanfu.com/13806.html |access-date=2021-05-24 |website=www.newhanfu.com |date=16 April 2021 |language=en-US}}</ref><gallery> File:Banbi+zhiduo+aoqun.jpg|A Ming dynasty portrait illustrating a woman wearing Banbi File:Mingbanbi.jpg|A Ming dynasty portrait illustrating a woman wearing Banbi File:徽州容像1.jpg|A man wearing a green ''dahu'', a Ming dynasty painting. </gallery>

=== Qing dynasty === In the Qing dynasty dictionary called {{zhp|p=Gujin Tushu Jicheng|c=古今圖書集成}}, the banbi is depicted with no sleeves.<gallery> File:Imperial Encyclopaedia - Ceremonial Usages - pic477 - 半臂.svg|Banbi, from the ''Gujin Tushu Jicheng'', section "Ceremonial Usages", between 1700 and 1725 </gallery>

== Derivative and influences == === China === {{Main|Beizi}} It is assumed that the long-sleeved {{zhp|p=beizi|c=褙子}}, which originated in the Song dynasty,<ref name=":12" /><ref name=":22">{{Cite book |last=B. Bonds |first=Alexandra |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=6OHjWDbrUaQC&dq=tang%20dynasty%20beizi&pg=PA53 |title=Beijing Opera Costumes: The Visual Communication of Character and Culture |publisher=University of Hawaii Press |year=2008 |isbn=9780824829568 |pages=53}}</ref> was derived from the banbi, when the sleeves and the garment were lengthened.<ref>{{Cite web |last=朱和平 |date=July 2001 |script-title=zh:中国服饰史稿 |url=https://www.scribd.com/doc/7136914/ |access-date=May 20, 2009 |publisher=中州古籍出版社 |pages=223–224 |language=zh |format=PDF |edition=1st}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book |last=Hua |first=Mei |title=Chinese Clothing |publisher=Cambridge University Press |year=2011 |isbn=9780521186896 |pages=36}}</ref> According to Ye Mende, the beizi was initially worn as a military clothing with "half-sleeves"; the sleeves were later extended and hanging ribbons were added from the armpits and back.<ref name=":12" />

=== Japan ===

==== Hanpi ==== thumb|271x271px|Hanpi, from "Depiction of costumes" published by Rinhei Shoten, 1932. In Japan, banbi are known as {{Transliteration|ja|hanpi}} ({{lang|ja|半臂/はんぴ}}, lit. "half-arm") and are short coats.<ref name=":9" />{{Rp|page=105|pages=}}<ref name=":3">{{Cite journal |last=Verschuer |first=Charlotte von |date=2008-01-01 |title=Le costume de Heian |url=https://journals.openedition.org/cipango/1029 |journal=Cipango. Cahiers d'études japonaises |language=fr |issue=Hors-série |pages=227–270 |doi=10.4000/cipango.1029 |issn=1164-5857|doi-access=free }}</ref> In Japan, the {{Transliteration|ja|hanpi}} was either imported from China or were modelled to look very closely to the Tang dynasty banbi.<ref name=":9" /> It was as a sleeveless short undergarment for men of the aristocracy;<ref>{{Cite web |last=Japanese Architecture and Art Net Users System |date=2001 |title=Hanpi |script-title=ja:半臂 |url=http://www.aisf.or.jp/~jaanus/deta/h/hanpi.htm |access-date=2022-03-19 |website=www.aisf.or.jp}}</ref> it commonly worn in summer.<ref name=":3" />

=== Korea === During the rule of Queen Jindeok of Silla (r. 647–654), Kim Chunchu personally traveled to Tang to request for clothing and belts; one of the requested clothing was banbi ({{korean|hangul=반비|hanja=半臂}}).<ref name=":2">{{Cite journal|last1=Ju-Ri|first1=Yu|last2=Jeong-Mee|first2=Kim|date=2006|title=A Study on Costume Culture Interchange Resulting from Political Factors|url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200614222982427.jsp-kj=SSMHB4&py=2012&vnc=v27n6&sp=588|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles|volume=30|issue=3|pages=458–469|issn=1225-1151}}</ref> The banbi later reappeared in the clothing prohibition decreed by King Heungdeok of Silla (r. 826–836).<ref name=":2" /><ref name=":1" /> During the Silla period, the banbi may have been worn on ''sam'' ({{lang|ko|衫}}, a type of upper garment) which also corresponds to the way banbi was worn by men and women during the Tang dynasty.<ref name=":1" />

The banbi from the Unified Silla period appears to have also been worn in Goryeo.<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Choi|first=Jeong|date=2015|title=A Study on Historical Research for Costume of Banya (般若) in King Gongmin's Period of Late Goryeo - Focused on the Buddhist Service Costume -|url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO201529539328859.page|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume|volume=65|issue=6|pages=112–132|doi=10.7233/jksc.2015.65.6.112|issn=1229-6880|doi-access=free}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=이 |first=은형 |date=2009 |script-title=ko:네이버 학술정보 |trans-title=Historical analysis and modernization work of Korean traditional Baeja |url=https://academic.naver.com/article.naver?doc_id=17287020 |access-date=2021-05-14 |website=academic.naver.com |language=ko}}</ref>

== Similar-looking items ==

*Dahu – A form of banbi in Ming dynasty influenced by the Mongol clothing of the Yuan dynasty *Beizi - a long sleeved over jacket in China *Beixin/Bijia - Sleeveless jacket in China *Baeja - A sleeveless or very short-sleeved vest in Korea

==See also== *Hanfu *List of hanfu

==References== <references/> {{Types of Han Chinese clothing}}

Category:Chinese traditional clothing Category:Sleeves Category:Coats (clothing)