{{Short description|Type of Chinese scarf, neckband or waistcoat}} {{Infobox Chinese | c = 霞帔 | p = xiápèi | l = "Rosy cloud scarf" or "Rosy cloud cape" | pic = Impératrice Du|150px | piccap = Portrait of Empress Dowager Du wearing scarf-like xiapei over her shoulders; a peizhui (ornament) is hanging at the front end, Song dynasty. | pic2 = 七十一代衍聖公 元配陳夫人衣冠像|100px | piccap2 = Portrait of Mrs Chen wearing the waistcoat-like xiapei, Qing dynasty | hangul = 하피 | hanja = 霞帔 | rr = hapi | lk = Rosy cloud cape | c2 = 霞帔坠 | p2 = Xiápèizhuì | l2 = Rosy cloud scarf pendant }}
'''Xiapei''' ({{Lang-zh|l=Rosy cloud scarf|s=霞帔}}), also known as '''hapi''' ({{Korean|hangul=하피|hanja=霞帔}}) in Korea,<ref name=":3">{{Cite web|title=Hapi(霞帔)|url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/en/topic/detail/7248|website=Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture}}</ref> is a type of Chinese clothing accessory in either the form of a long scarf, a neckband, or in the shape of waistcoat depending on the time period.<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last=Yang|first=Shaorong|title=Traditional Chinese clothing : costumes, adornments & culture|date=2004|publisher=Long River Press|isbn=1-59265-019-8|edition=1st|location=San Francisco|pages=32–33|oclc=52775158}}</ref><ref name=":2">{{Cite book|last=Lewandowski|first=Elizabeth J.|title=The complete costume dictionary|date=2011 |isbn=978-0-8108-4004-1|location=Lanham, Maryland|publisher=The Scarecrow Press|pages=319|oclc=694238143}}</ref> It was also referred as '''xiapeizhui''' ({{Lang-zh|c=霞帔坠}}) when it was ornamented with a ''peizhui'' ({{Lang-zh|c=帔坠|l=pendant|p=pèizhuì}}) at its front end; the peizhui ornament could be made of diverse materials, such as silver, jade, and gold.<ref name=":5">{{Cite journal|last=KESSLER|first=ADAM T.|date=2017-08-23|title=The Last Days of the Song Dynasty: Evidence of the Flight of Song Officials to Southeast Asia before the Mongol Invasions|url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s1356186317000384|journal=Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society|volume=28|issue=2|pages=315–337|doi=10.1017/s1356186317000384|s2cid=164576372 |issn=1356-1863|url-access=subscription}}</ref>
The xiapei appeared as early as the Qin dynasty and continues to be worn until now (although the shape of the xiapei evolved with time).<ref name=":1" /> Since the Song dynasty, peizhui started to be used to ornate the xiapei.<ref>{{Cite web|title=History of Peizhui - Most Exquisite Hanfu Ornament|url=https://www.newhanfu.com/9539.html|access-date=2022-01-02|website=www.newhanfu.com|date=28 December 2020 |language=en-US}}</ref> In the Ming and Qing dynasties, the ''xiapei'', along with the ''fengguan'', became the daily clothing of queens and the formal clothing of the wives of senior officials.<ref name=":1" /> The ''xiapei'' eventually became part of the traditional Chinese wedding attire for commoners.<ref name=":1" /> The xiapei was also introduced and worn in the late Goryeo and Joseon where it was called '''hapi'''; it was bestowed by the Ming dynasty along with the jeokui and many other garment items.<ref name=":3"/><ref>{{Cite web|title=Jeogui: The Most Formal Ceremonial Robe of the Joseon Queens|url=https://www.museum.go.kr/site/eng/relic/recommend/view?relicRecommendId=519662|access-date=|website=National Museum of Korea}}</ref>
== History == === Qin and Han dynasty === The ''xiapei'' appears as early as the Qin and Han dynasty and was in the shape of the long, thin-silk scarf.<ref name=":1" />
=== Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties. === During the Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties, the xiapei was known as ''embroidered collar''.<ref name=":1" />
=== Sui and Tang dynasty === In the Sui and Tang dynasties, the ''xiapei'' gained its name due to its beauty like ''rosy clouds'' (霞; xia).<ref name=":1" /> During this period, it became increasingly popular.<ref name=":4">{{Cite book|title=5000 years of Chinese costumes|date=1987|publisher=China Books & Periodicals |author1=Xun Zhou |author2=Chunming Gao |isbn=0-8351-1822-3|location=San Francisco, CA|pages=150, 195|oclc=19814728}}</ref> In the Tang dynasty, the xiapei was an embroidered scarf made of silk which was attached to a woman's neck and shoulder that would wrap around her body.<ref name=":5"/><ref name=":6">{{Cite web|title=【金银器】帔坠_收藏文化_银元收藏网|url=https://www.mugwum.com/shoucangwenhua/2905.html|access-date=2022-01-02|website=www.mugwum.com|archive-date=2022-01-02|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220102055132/https://www.mugwum.com/shoucangwenhua/2905.html|url-status=dead}}</ref>
=== Song dynasty === [[File:南宋满池娇纹金帔坠.jpg|left|thumb|156x156px|Southern Song gold peizhui, an ornament used to decorate xiapei.]] In the Song dynasty, xiapei became a component part of the formal attire; the embellishment of the xiapei in this period were determined according to the social rank of its wearer.<ref name=":4"/> Peizhui (帔坠), the ornament which was used to decorate the xiapei, were among the jewelries given by wealthy families and high status families to women on their wedding.<ref name=":5"/> Similarly to the way it was worn in the Tang dynasty, the xiapei was still attached to the neck and shoulder of a woman, except that it was repositioned to also hang on her chest in order to display the ornament (i.e. peizhui) which was attached to the front end of the xiapei.<ref name=":5"/><ref name=":6"/>
=== Ming dynasty === In the Ming dynasty, the ''xiapei'' was inherited from the one worn in the Song dynasty.<ref name=":4"/> The Ming dynasty xiapei was a form of long embroidered neckband which was trimmed with gold and lace.<ref name=":2" /> It was worn by queens as daily attires and by the wives of senior official as a formal attire.<ref name=":0">{{Cite journal|last=Tibberts|first=Jennifer|date=2021-01-01|title=Investigating How Qipao and Hanfu Dresses are Representative of China|url=https://digitalcommons.liberty.edu/honors/1089|journal=Senior Honors Theses|pages=1–52}}</ref><ref name=":1" /> It was also used as part of the ceremonial attire for titled women.<ref name=":4"/>
During the Hongwu Period (1368 –1398 AD) of the Ming Dynasty, there were specific regulations on what kind of clothing a woman had to wear based on her social rank:<ref name=":0" />
* Women who were given rank of 1st and rank of 2nd by the Ming emperor had to wear a ''xiapei'' which was decorated with golden cloud and pheasant patterns embroidery.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1" /> * Women who were given the rank of 3rd and 4th had to wear a ''xiapei'' which was embroidered with golden cloud and peacock pattern,<ref name=":1" /> * Women who were given the rank of 5th had to wear a ''xiapei'' which was embroidered with cloud and mandarin duck pattern,<ref name=":1" /> * Women who were given the rank of 6th and 7th had to wear a ''xiapei'' which was embroidered with cloud and magpie pattern,<ref name=":1" /> * Women who were given the rank of 8th and 9th had to wear a ''xiapei'' which was embroidered with branch pattern.<ref name=":1" />
The ''xiapei'' eventually became part of the wedding attire for commoners.<ref name=":1" /><gallery> File:China's Ming Dynasty Empress Xiaoyizhuang.JPG|Ming dynasty Empress Xiao yizhuang. File:Chinese Ming Dynasty Empress XiaoChun.JPG|Ming fynasty Empress Xiao Chun File:China's Ming Dynasty Empress Xiaoduan.jpg|Ming dynasty Empress Xiaoduan File:Chinese Ming Dynasty Empress Xiaoduan.JPG|Ming dynasty Empress Xiaoduan wearing xiapei. File:Noblewoman3.jpg|Ming dynasty noblewomen wearing a green embroidered xiapei over her red robe. File:Noblewoman5.jpg|Ming dynasty noblewomen wearing a blue embroidered xiapei over her red robe. File:五品官員夫婦像.jpg|Woman wearing xiapei; portrait of an official woman. File:晚明 命婦像.jpg|Woman wearing xiapei in late Ming. </gallery>
=== Qing dynasty === In the Qing dynasty, the Ming dynasty xiapei (long scarf) evolved into the Qing dynasty xiapei which was in the form of a sleeveless waistcoat. This waistcoat was made up of 3 pieces:<ref name=":1" />
* The front and back parts which was decorated with the rank badges accordingly to the women's husband ranking, and * Coloured tassels were decorated the bottom part of the waistcoat.<ref name=":1" /> * The waistcoat-shaped ''xiapei'' was tied at the sides, reached below the knee and had a fringed pointed bottom hem.<ref name=":2" />
Similarly to the Ming dynasty, the waistcoat ''xiapei'' was worn by the queens as a daily form of attire while the wives of senior official as a formal attire.<ref name=":1" /> Throughout the Qing dynasty, Han Chinese women, following the Ming dynasty customs, would wear the xiapei on their wedding day.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Vollmer|first=John E.|title=Dressed to rule : 18th century court attire in the Mactaggart Art Collection|date=2007|publisher=University of Alberta Press|others=Mactaggart Art Collection|isbn=978-1-55195-214-7|location=Edmonton|pages=46|oclc=166687933}}</ref> The xiapei was actually first worn as part of the Wedding attire and after the wedding, it would be worn for special events.<ref name=":2" /> Ordinary women wear allowed to wear xiapei on rare occasion, such as weddings and funerals.<ref name=":4"/><gallery> File:Qing Dynasty Lady in a red robe.jpg|Qing dynasty lady in a red robe and xiapei over shoulders. File:HKU University Museum & Art Gallery 香港大學美術博物館 UMAG exhibition 許氏家族 Xu Family of Guangzhou Chinese officials painting Mar-2012.jpg|Chinese woman wearing xiapei, Xu Family of Guangzhou Chinese officials, Qing dynasty. File:Clothing, Qing dynasty, 1644-1911 AD - Sichuan University Museum - Chengdu, China - DSC06263.jpg|Waistcoat-like xiapei, Qing dynasty. File:China, Qing Dynasty, late 19th century - Woman's Bridal Dress, Tabard - 2005.135.3 - Cleveland Museum of Art.jpg|Women's waistcoat-like xiapei, Qing dynasty, late 19th century. </gallery>
== Korea == The xiapei was called hapi in Korea; it was a long, wide piece of black silk which was worn over the shoulders.<ref name=":3"/> Hapi was an ornamental garment and was a ceremonial cape which was worn by the queens, crown princess, and royal women (including the consort of the crown prince, the consort of the crown prince's son, the queen dowager, and the grand queen dowager) along with the jeokui.<ref name=":3"/>
The hapi was worn in Korea from the late Goryeo to the wedding ceremony of King Yeongchin in 1922.<ref name=":3"/> The hapi was bestowed by the Ming dynasty and was included in the set of ceremonial attire sent to the queen.<ref name=":3"/> According to the Annals of Joseon, from 1403 to the first half of the 17th century the Ming Dynasty sent a letter, which confers the queen with a title, along with the hapi and many other items.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Jeokgwan|url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/en/topic/detail/7163|website=Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture}}</ref><gallery> File:KOCIS Hanbok fashion show (6557981733).jpg|Hapi (black silk band with gold ornament motifs) is worn over the shoulders. File:Incheon International Airport (summer 2013) 11.JPG|Black hapi worn on top of jeokui. </gallery>
== See also == {{Portal|China|Fashion}} * Fengguan * Qixiong ruqun * Yuanlingshan * Guan Li * List of Hanfu * Hanfu footwear
== References == {{Reflist}}
{{Types of Han Chinese clothing}}
Category:Chinese traditional clothing Category:Scarves