{{Short description|Chinese outfit composed of a top and trousers}} {{Infobox Chinese | pic = MET DP158750.jpg | piccap = A jiaoling youren shanku worn by a civil official, Western Jin | s = 衫褲 | t = 衫褲 | p = Shānkù | l = Shirt and trousers | lang1 = English | lang1_content = Samfoo (British English) / Samfu / Aoku | j = saam1 fu3 | phfs = sâm-fu | poj = saⁿ-khò͘ | showflag = | pic2 = Playing a sanxian.jpg | piccap2 = Illustration of a woman wearing a pianjin shanku from 1800s }}
'''{{tlit|zh|Shanku}}''' ({{Lang-zh|t=衫褲|s=衫裤|l=shirt trousers|p=shānkù}}; see terminology) is a generic term which refers to a two-piece set of attire in {{tlit|zh|Hanfu}}, which is typically composed of a {{zhp|p=yòurèn yī|c={{linktext|右衽|衣}}}},{{NoteTag|Yi is typically literally translated as "clothing" nowadays; however, in ancient times, it was used to refer to "upper clothing"; see page Ru for more details.}} a Chinese upper garment which typically overlaps and closes on the right side which could be called {{zhp|p=shan|c=衫}}, {{zhp|p=ru|s=|t=|l=|c=襦}}, {{zhp|p=ao|s=袄|t=襖}}, and a pair of long trousers called {{zhp|p=ku|s=裤|t=褲}}.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last=Garrett|first=Valery|title=Chinese Dress : From the Qing Dynasty to the Present.|date=2012|publisher=Tuttle Pub|isbn=978-1-4629-0694-9|location=New York|oclc=794664023}}</ref> As a form of daily attire, the {{tlit|zh|shanku}} was mainly worn by people from lower social status in China, such as labourers,<ref name=":2">{{Cite book |last=Koh |first=Jaime |title=Culture and customs of Singapore and Malaysia |date=2009 |publisher=Greenwood Press |others=Lee-Ling Ho |isbn=978-0-313-35115-0 |location=Santa Barbara, Calif. |pages=107 |oclc=318420874}}</ref><ref name=":15" />{{Rp|page=1}} shopkeepers, or retainers from wealthy households.<ref name=":15" />{{Rp|page=xviii}} The {{Transliteration|zh|shanku}} was originally worn by both genders.<ref name=":1" /> Up until the mid-20th century, it was popular in China and outside of China where it was worn by overseas Chinese in countries, such as Singapore,<ref name=":0" /> Malaysia,<ref name=":2" /> Suriname,<ref>{{Cite book |last=Tjon Sie Fat |first=Paul Brendan |title=Chinese new migrants in Suriname : the inevitability of ethnic performing |date=2009 |publisher=Amsterdam University Press |isbn=978-90-485-1147-1 |location=Amsterdam |pages=276–277 |oclc=647870387}}</ref> etc. It is still worn in present-day China and can be found in rural areas.<ref name=":1" /><ref name=":0" />
== Terminology ==
Shanku is sometimes referred as {{zhp|p='''aoku'''|s=袄裤|t=襖褲|l=coat trousers}},<ref name=":15">{{Cite book |last=Finnane |first=Antonia |title=Changing clothes in China : fashion, history, nation |date=2008 |publisher=Columbia University Press |isbn=978-0-231-14350-9 |location=New York |oclc=84903948}}</ref>{{Rp|page=87}}<ref>{{Cite web |title=Evolution and revolution: Chinese dress 1700s-1990s - Glossary |url=http://archive.maas.museum/hsc/evrev/glossary.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210602215322/http://archive.maas.museum/hsc/evrev/glossary.html |archive-date=2021-06-02 |access-date=2021-05-31 |website=archive.maas.museum}}</ref> {{zhp|p='''ruku'''|s=襦裤|t=襦褲|l=jacket trousers}},<ref name=":19">{{Cite book |last=Rui |first=Chuanming |title=On the ancient history of the Silk Road |date=2021 |isbn=978-981-12-3296-1 |location=Singapore |pages= |oclc=1225977015}}</ref>{{Rp|pages=23–26}} and also known as '''samfu''' in English or '''samfoo''' (pronunciation: ''{{IPA|/ (ˈsæmfuː) /|lang=eng}}'') in British English<ref name=":20">{{Cite web |date=2022 |title=Definition of 'samfoo' |url=https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/samfoo |website=Collins English Dictionary |publisher=HarperCollins Publishers}}</ref> following its Cantonese spelling.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web |last=Ho |first=Stephanie |date=2013 |title=Samfu {{!}} Infopedia |url=https://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/infopedia/articles/SIP_2013-09-27_175007.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220327043747/https://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/infopedia/articles/SIP_2013-09-27_175007.html |archive-date=2022-03-27 |access-date=2021-05-30 |website=eresources.nlb.gov.sg}}</ref>
The terms {{zhp|p='''duanda'''|c=短打}}, {{zhp|p='''duanhe'''|c=短褐|l=short brown}} or {{zhp|p='''shuhe'''|c=竖褐|l=vertical brown}} typically refer to the two-piece set composed of an upper garment which is generally above and below the hips and knees and a pair of trousers, both made out of coarse cloth. This was generally worn by people doing manual labour, such as farm work, and by martial artists.<ref name=":24">{{Cite web |date=2020-04-27 |title=What did Ancient Chinese Peasants Wear? – 2021 |url=https://www.newhanfu.com/4039.html |access-date=2021-07-03 |website=www.newhanfu.com |language=en-US}}</ref>
The generic term {{zhp|p='''kuzhe'''|s=袴褶|l=jacket trousers}}, also called {{zhp|p='''kuxi'''|s=袴褶}}, is typically used to refer to military or riding style attire which is composed of a jacket or coat and trousers.<ref name=":10">{{Cite book |last=Dien |first=Albert E. |title=Six dynasties civilization |date=2007 |publisher=Yale University Press |isbn=978-0-300-07404-8 |location=New Haven, Conn. |pages= |oclc=72868060}}</ref>{{Rp|pages=|page=319}}<ref name=":12">{{Citation |last=Chen |first=BuYun |title=Wearing the Hat of Loyalty: Imperial Power and Dress Reform in Ming Dynasty China |date=2019 |url=https://www.cambridge.org/core/books/right-to-dress/wearing-the-hat-of-loyalty-imperial-power-and-dress-reform-in-ming-dynasty-china/440605B194AF7A69AF60F226F10CD6D4 |work=The Right to Dress: Sumptuary Laws in a Global Perspective, c.1200–1800 |pages=416–434 |editor-last=Riello |editor-first=Giorgio |place=Cambridge |publisher=Cambridge University Press |doi=10.1017/9781108567541.017 |isbn=978-1-108-47591-4 |s2cid=165356490 |access-date=2021-06-03 |editor2-last=Rublack |editor2-first=Ulinka|url-access=subscription }}</ref><ref name=":15" />{{Rp|page=45}} According to the {{tlit|zh|Shiming}}, the coat, {{zhp|p=xi|c={{Linktext|褶}}}}; (sometimes referred to as {{tlit|zh|zhe}}, typically used as part of the {{tlit|zh|kuxi}}), was a {{zhp|p=xi|c=襲}}.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Shiming |script-title=zh:釋衣服 |url=https://ctext.org/dictionary.pl?if=en&id=40978 |access-date=2022-07-11 |website=ctext.org |language=en}}</ref> A {{zhp|p=xi|c=襲}} was a {{tlit|zh|paofu}} with a {{tlit|zh|zuoren}} closure according to the {{zhp|p=Shuowen Jiezi|c={{Linktext|說文解字}}}}.<ref>{{Cite web |script-title=zh:說文解字「襲」 |url=https://www.shuowen.org/view/5248 |access-date=2022-07-11 |website=www.shuowen.org |language=en}}</ref> The term {{zhp|p=daxi|c=大褶|l=big coat}} also existed, but they were only long enough to cover the knees, which suggest that the other forms of {{tlit|zh|xi}} were shorter than knee-length.<ref name=":19" />{{Rp|pages=23–26}} Although the {{tlit|zh|kuxi/kuzhe}} attire were oftentimes associated with {{tlit|zh|Hufu}}, some of these garment items and styles were in fact Chinese innovations.<ref name=":10" />{{Rp|page=319}}
=== English definition === In the English language, {{tlit|zh|shanku}} is commonly written as ''samfoo'' in British English or ''samfu''. According to the Collins English Dictionary, the term ''samfu'' (pronounced: ''{{IPA|/ˈsæmfuː/|lang=eng}}'') originated from the combination of the Chinese (Cantonese) words ''sam'' (dress) and ''fu'' (trousers).<ref name=":20" />
The Oxford Advanced Learner's Dictionary and the Concise Oxford English Dictionary indicate that the term ''samfu'' originated in the 1950s from the Cantonese term '''shaam foò''', with ''shaam'' meaning 'coat' and ''foò'' meaning 'trousers'.<ref name=":21">{{Cite web |date=2022 |title=Definition of samfu noun from the Oxford Advanced Learner's Dictionary |url=https://www.oxfordlearnersdictionaries.com/definition/english/samfu |website=Oxford Learner's Dictionaries}}</ref><ref name=":22">{{Cite book |title=Concise Oxford English dictionary |date=2011 |publisher=Oxford University Press |others=Angus Stevenson, Maurice Waite |isbn=978-0-19-960108-0 |edition=12th |location=Oxford |oclc=692291307}}</ref>{{Rp|page=1272}} Among English dictionaries, there are variations in the definition of ''samfu''. The ''Collins English Dictionary'' defines it as being:<ref name=":20" />
{{Blockquote|text="A style of casual dress worn by Chinese women, consisting of a waisted blouse and trousers".}}
The ''Oxford Learner's Advanced Dictionary'' defines it as being:<ref name=":21" />
{{Blockquote|text="A light suit consisting of a jacket with a high collar and loose trousers, traditional in China".}}
The 12th edition of the ''Concise Oxford English Dictionary'' defines it as being:<ref name=":22" />{{Rp|page=1272}}
{{Blockquote|text="A suit consisting of high-necked jacket and loose trousers, worn by Chinese women".}}
== Design and construction == The {{tlit|zh|shanku}} is a two-piece set of attire, which is composed of a jacket as an upper garment and a pair of trousers as a lower garment. More precisely, the {{tlit|zh|shanku}} is composed of the {{tlit|zh|shan}} and the trousers generally known as {{tlit|zh|ku}}.
The {{tlit|zh|shan}} and the {{tlit|zh|ku}} were typically made of similar fabrics.<ref name=":1" /> However, the two garments were sometimes made separately and did not belong to the same set of clothing.<ref name=":1" />
=== Upper garment === {{Main|Ru (upper garment)|Garment collars in Hanfu|l1 = Ru/shan/ao/yi (upper garment)}}
The {{zhp|p=shan|c=衫}} or {{zhp|p=ao|s=袄|t=襖}} or {{zhp|p=ru|c=襦}}<ref name=":15" />{{Rp|page=50}} or {{zhp|p=yi|c=衣}} all refer to a Chinese upper garment, which typically has a side fastening to the right, known as {{tlit|zh|youren}}.<ref name=":4">{{Cite web |date=2021 |title=Sleeveless 'samfoo' with a floral motif |url=https://www.roots.gov.sg/Collection-Landing/listing/1241318 |access-date=2021-06-01 |website=www.roots.gov.sg}}</ref><ref name=":1" />
{{Multiple image | total_width = 400 | image1 = Imperial Encyclopaedia - Ceremonial Usages - pic478 - 衫.png | image2 = China, 19th century - Han Woman's Jacket - 1956.306 - Cleveland Museum of Art.jpg | header = Styles of Chinese upper garment | header_align = center | footer_align = center | caption1 = Illustration of shan (衫) from the Chinese encyclopedia Gujin Tushu Jicheng, between 1700 and 1725 AD | caption2 = Han woman's jacket (袄) with a slanted opening and high collar, 19th century | footer = Jiaoling youren style (left) vs. pianjin style (right) | caption_align = center }}
Prior to the Qing dynasty, the shape of the collar and closure of the upper garment were typically {{tlit|zh|jiaoling youren}}, a collar which crosses or overlaps in the front and closed to the right side similar to the letter ''y'' in shape, as the ones worn in the Ming dynasty and earlier, instead of the {{tlit|zh|pianjin}}-style, the curved or slanted overlap closure which appears similar to the letter ''s'', which was commonly worn in the late Qing dynasty.<ref name=":11">{{Cite book |last1=Jiang |first1=Wanyi |last2=Li |first2=Zhaoqing |title=Proceedings of the 6th International Conference on Arts, Design and Contemporary Education (ICADCE 2020) |chapter=Analysis on Evolution, Design and Application of Women's Traditional Coats in Beijing in the Late Qing Dynasty and the Early Republic of China: Based on the Collection of Ethnic Custom Museum of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology |date=2021-01-06 |url=https://www.atlantis-press.com/proceedings/icadce-20/125950848 |language=en |publisher=Atlantis Press |pages=641–648 |doi=10.2991/assehr.k.210106.123 |isbn=978-94-6239-314-1|s2cid=234293619 }}</ref> The {{tlit|zh|shan}} could have a mandarin collar or a high standing collar.<ref name=":4" />
The {{tlit|zh|shan}} could be long-sleeved, short-sleeved,<ref name=":5" /> or sleeveless<ref name=":4" /> depending on the time period. The sleeves could be wide or narrow, and the shape of the cuff could vary depending on styles and time period.<ref name=":11" />
The bodice of the {{tlit|zh|shan}} varied in length depending on the time period, but it could also be thigh-length.<ref name=":1" />
=== Lower garment === {{Main|Ku (trousers)|l1 = Ku and/or kun (trousers)}}
The {{zhp|p=ku|s=裤|t=褲}}, as a general term, was a pair of long trousers which could be loose or narrow.<ref name=":1" /> There are many types of {{tlit|zh|ku}} with some having closed rises while others have opened rise.<ref name=":7">{{Cite journal|last1=Xu|first1=Rui|last2=Sparks|first2=Diane|date=2011|title=Symbolism and Evolution of Ku-form in Chinese Costume|url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/rjta-15-01-2011-b002|journal=Research Journal of Textile and Apparel|volume=15|issue=1|pages=11–21|doi=10.1108/rjta-15-01-2011-b002|issn=1560-6074|url-access=subscription}}</ref> Trousers with close rises were typically referred as {{tlit|zh|kun}} to differentiate from the {{tlit|zh|ku}} which typically referred to trousers without rises.
=== Fitting === The {{tlit|zh|shanku}} is traditionally loose in terms of fitting.<ref name=":5">{{Cite web |date=2021 |title=Traditional Chinese 'samfoo' |url=https://www.roots.gov.sg/Collection-Landing/listing/1134353 |access-date=2021-06-01 |website=www.roots.gov.sg}}</ref> However, due to the influence of Western fashion, it became more tight fitting in the 1950s and 1960s.<ref name=":5" />
=== Colours === The {{tlit|zh|shanku}} was typically dyed in black, blue or grey.<ref name=":1" /> The waistband of the {{tlit|zh|ku}} was typically made of lighter coloured fabric, such as blue or white.<ref name=":1" /> However, the colours of the {{tlit|zh|shanku}} could vary depending on ethnic groups.<ref name=":1" />
== History and development ==
=== Pre-history === In the Neolithic period, the trousers were known as {{zhp|p=jingyi|c=胫衣}} and were the original form of the {{tlit|zh|ku}} without crotches.<ref name=":7" /> The form of the Neolithic {{tlit|zh|jingyi}} was different from the trousers worn nowadays as it came in pairs of legs like shoes.<ref name=":7" /> They were knee-high trousers which were tied on the calves and only covered the knees and the ankles; thus allowing its wearer's thighs to be exposed; due to this reason, ancient Chinese wore {{tlit|zh|yichang}}, a set of attire consisting of the {{tlit|zh|yi}} and {{tlit|zh|chang}}, on top of their {{tlit|zh|jingyi}} to cover their lower body.<ref name=":7" /> This form of {{tlit|zh|jingyi}} continued to be worn until the early Han dynasty.<ref name=":7" />
=== Shang dynasty === The {{tlit|zh|Hanfu}} can be traced back at least to the Shang dynasty.<ref name=":23">{{Cite book |last=Snodgrass |first=Mary Ellen |title=World Clothing and Fashion : an Encyclopedia of History, Culture, and Social Influence. |date=2015 |publisher=Taylor and Francis |isbn=978-1-317-45167-9 |location=Hoboken |oclc=910448387}}</ref>{{Rp|pages=|page=121}} Prior to the introduction of foreigners' clothing, known as {{tlit|zh|Hufu}}, during the Warring States period, a set of attire known as {{zhp|p=ruku|c=襦裤|l=jacket and trousers}} was already worn by the ancient Chinese people. However, the lower garment called {{tlit|zh|chang}} remained in use to cover the {{tlit|zh|jingyi}}-style {{tlit|zh|ku}}{{NoteTag|The term chang in a broad sense can refer to any to lower garments, including trousers and skirts. When chang is used over trousers, it typically refers to a skirt; upper garment with chang (skirt) form a set of attire called yichang. See page ruqun for more details.}}<ref name=":19" />{{Rp|pages=23–26}} as the trousers in this period still lacked a rise.<ref name=":23" />{{Rp|pages=|page=121}} In the Shang dynasty, the slaveholders wore a {{tlit|zh|youren yi}} with {{tlit|zh|ku}} and/or {{tlit|zh|chang}}.<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=15}} The {{tlit|zh|yi}}, which was worn, was similar to a knee-length tunic.<ref name=":23" />{{Rp|pages=|page=121}}
=== Zhou dynasty, Spring and Autumn period, and Warring States period === In the {{zhp|p=Zhou Li|t=周禮|tr=Rites of Zhou}}, it is recorded that exorcists wore black trousers and red jackets.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Lorge |first=Peter |title=Warfare in China to 1600 |date=2017 |publisher=Taylor & Francis |isbn=978-1-351-87379-6 |location=USA: New York |oclc=999622852}}</ref>
==== Adoption of Hufu ==== {{Main|Hufu}} During the Warring States period, King Wuling of Zhao (r. 326–298 BC) instituted the {{zhp|p=Hufuqishe|c=胡服騎射|l=Hu clothing and mounted archery}} policies which involved the adoption of {{tlit|zh|Hufu}} to facilitate horse riding.<ref name=":03">{{Cite book|title=Between history and philosophy : anecdotes in early China|date=2017|others=Paul van Els, Sarah A. Queen|isbn=978-1-4384-6613-2|location=Albany|pages=121–122|oclc=967791392}}</ref><ref name=":52">{{Cite book|last=Zhao|first=Yin|title=Snapshots of Chinese culture|date=2014|others=Xinzhi Cai|isbn=978-1-62643-003-7|location=Los Angeles|oclc=912499249}}</ref>
The nomadic clothes adopted by King Wuling consisted of belts, short upper garment, and trousers.<ref name=":8">{{Cite book |last=Feng |first=Ge |title=Traditional Chinese rites and rituals |date=2015 |publisher=Cambridge Scholars Publishing |others=Zhengming Du |isbn=978-1-4438-8783-0 |location=Newcastle upon Tyne |pages= |oclc=935642485}}</ref>{{Rp|page=16}} The {{tlit|zh|Hufu}} introduced by King Wuling can be designated as {{zhp|p=shangxi xiaku|c=上褶下袴|l=short coat on upper body, trousers on lower body}}.<ref name=":19" />{{Rp|pages=23–26}} However, the style of trousers, which was introduced in Central China by King Wuling of Zhao, had a loose, close rise and differed from the indigenous Chinese {{tlit|zh|ku}}; it is thus a style referred as {{zhp|p=kun|c=裈}} instead of {{tlit|zh|ku}}.<ref name=":7" />
The short garment was a coat was called {{zhp|p=xi|c=褶|l=coat}}, which appears to have been the outermost coat of all garment, resembling a robe with short body and loose sleeves.<ref name=":19" />{{Rp|pages=23–26}} King Wuling was also known for wearing {{tlit|zh|Hufu}}-style long trousers and upper garments with narrow sleeves.<ref name=":14">{{Cite book |last=Xu |first=Zhuoyun |title=China : a new cultural history |date=2012 |publisher=Columbia University Press |others=Timothy Danforth Baker, Michael S. Duke |isbn=978-0-231-15920-3 |location=New York |pages=166 |oclc=730906510}}</ref>
===== Influence of Hufu ===== {{See also|Ku (trousers)|}} Under the influence of the {{tlit|zh|kun}}, the {{tlit|zh|jingyi}}-style {{tlit|zh|ku}} evolved until the thighs were lengthened to cover the thighs forming a newly improved {{tlit|zh|ku}}-trousers; it also had a waist enclosure which was added; however, as the improved {{tlit|zh|ku}}-trousers still had an open rise and rear, which would allowed for excretion purposes, the {{tlit|zh|yichang}} still continued to be worn on top of the {{tlit|zh|ku}}.<ref name=":7" /> Compared to the nomadic {{tlit|zh|kun}} which did not fit in the traditional norms of the Chinese people, the {{tlit|zh|ku}} was well-accepted by the Chinese as it was more aligned with the Han Chinese tradition.<ref name=":7" />
The trousers with loose rise, {{tlit|zh|kun}}, which was adopted from the {{tlit|zh|Hufuqishe}} policy was mainly worn by the military troops and servants while the general population typically continued to wear the {{tlit|zh|jingyi}}-style {{Transliteration|zh|ku}} and the newly improved {{Transliteration|zh|ku}}.<ref name=":7" /> Thus, the nomadic-style {{Transliteration|zh|kun}} never fully replaced the {{Transliteration|zh|ku}} and was only worn by military and by the lower class.<ref name=":7" /> The nomadic-style loose rise {{Transliteration|zh|kun}} later influenced the formation of other forms of {{Transliteration|zh|kun}} trousers, such as {{transliteration|zh|dashao}} (i.e. trousers with extremely wide legs) which appeared in the Han dynasty and {{transliteration|zh|dakouku}} (i.e. trousers with tied strings under the knees).<ref name=":7" /> These forms of {{Transliteration|zh|kun}}-trousers were Chinese innovations.<ref name=":7" />
=== Qin dynasty === thumb|Terracotta warriors wearing kuzhe (some of them wearing their armour over it), Qin dynasty|left|300px In Qin dynasty, short clothing became more common and trousers were generally worn from what can be observed from the unearthed Qin dynasty tomb figures.<ref name=":14" />
As a general term for trousers, the {{Transliteration|zh|ku}} was worn with jackets {{zhp|p=ru|c=襦}}, also known as {{zhp|p=shangru|c=上襦}} along with {{zhp|p=daru|c=大襦|l=outerwear}}.<ref name=":9">{{Cite journal|last1=Hao|first1=Peng|last2=Ling|first2=Zhang|date=2018|title=On "Skirts" and "Trousers" in the Qin Dynasty Manuscript Making Clothes in thh Collection of Peking University|url=https://dlib.eastview.com/browse/doc/54663802|journal=Chinese Cultural Relics|volume=5|issue=1|pages=248–268|doi=10.21557/CCR.54663802|doi-broken-date=12 July 2025 |issn=2330-5169|via=East View}}</ref> The trousers were often wide at the top and narrower at the bottom and could be find with rise.<ref name=":9" />
Terracotta warriors, for example, wears a type of long robe which is worn on top of skirt and trousers.<ref>{{Cite journal|date=2016|others=Yuanfeng Liu, Frances Corner; China Textile & Apparel Press (Editors)|title=A study on skirt construction in qin dynasty|url=http://iffti.org/downloads/papers-presented/XVIII-BIFT.pdf|journal=18th Annual IFFTI Conference|publisher=The International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institutes|pages=199–205}}</ref> The Qin artisans valued contrasting colours; for example, the upper garments which were green in colour were often decorated with red or purple border; this upper garment would often be worn together with blue, or purple, or red trousers.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Miller |first=Allison R. |title=Kingly splendor : court art and materiality in Han China |date=2021 |isbn=978-0-231-55174-8 |location=New York |oclc=1152416590}}</ref>
{{Clear}}
=== Han dynasty === {{Multiimage | image1 = Dahuting Eastern Han Tombs Mural - 23 (robe and red trousers).jpg | image2 = Dahuting Eastern Han Tombs Mural - 24 (shanku).jpg | total_width = 400 | caption1 = Black ''zhijupao'' and red trousers | caption2 = Banquet attendees wearing ''shanku'', Dahuting murals, Eastern Han (1st century AD) | image3 = Fresco of a Horseman from a Han Dynasty Tomb in Sian, Shensi.jpg | image4 = DinastíaHan20100102051749SAM 2864.jpg | caption4 = A guard wearing a ''zhijupao'' with trousers, Han tomb figurines. | caption3 = Horseman wearing ''shanku'' consisting of a pair of white trousers with red upper garment, Han dynasty tomb mural. | perrow = 2 }}
Starting since the Eastern Han dynasty, trousers with rise, {{Transliteration|zh|kun}}, gradually started to be worn, the {{transliteration|zh|zhijupao}} of the Han dynasty gradually replaced the {{transliteration|zh|qujupao}}.<ref>{{Cite book|last1=Zang|first1=Yingchun|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=m7Qf-bjLfA4C&dq=han%20dynasty%20trousers&pg=PA32|title=Zhongguo chuan tong fu shi|last2=臧迎春.|date=2003|publisher=Wu zhou chuan bo chu ban she|others=李竹润., 王德华., 顾映晨.|isbn=7-5085-0279-5|edition=Di 1 ban|location=Beijing|pages=32|oclc=55895164}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book |title=5000 years of Chinese costumes |date=1987 |publisher=China Books & Periodicals |others=Xun Zhou, Chunming Gao, 周汛, Shanghai Shi xi qu xue xiao. Zhongguo fu zhuang shi yan jiu zu |isbn=0-8351-1822-3 |location=San Francisco, CA |oclc=19814728}}</ref>{{Rp|page=43}} While the long robe known as {{transliteration|zh|shenyi}} was mainly worn for formal occasions in the Han dynasty, men wore a waist-length ''ru'' and trousers in their ordinary days while women wore ruqun.{{NoteTag|Authors Feng and Du (2015) specifies that the jacket worn is ru, which is cut to the waist, in this context. They however do not elaborate on the precise type of trousers.}}<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=16}} Manual labourers tended to be wear even shorter upper garment and lower garment as due to their convenient use for work.<ref name=":14" />
In the Han dynasty, the {{Transliteration|zh|kun}} trousers came in variety of styles, such as {{transliteration|zh|dashao}} and {{transliteration|zh|dakouku}}, while a derivative of the {{Transliteration|zh|ku}}-trousers known as {{transliteration|zh|qiongku}} was developed.<ref name=":7" />
The {{transliteration|zh|dashao}} was worn with a loose robe (either {{transliteration|zh|shenyi}} or {{transliteration|zh|paofu}}) in the Han dynasty by both military and civil officials.<ref name=":7" /> The {{transliteration|zh|dakouku}} were trousers which were tied with strings under the knees.<ref name=":7" />
The {{transliteration|zh|qiongku}} is a type of {{Transliteration|zh|kun}} which covered the hips and legs and its rise and hips regions were closed at the front and multiple strings were used to tie it at the back of its wearer; it was made for palace maids.<ref name=":7" /> The {{transliteration|zh|qiongku}} continued to be worn for a long period of time, and was even worn in the Ming dynasty.<ref name=":7" />
{{Clear}}
=== Wei, Jin, Northern, and Southern dynasties === thumb|201x201px|Woman wearing ''{{Transliteration|zh|shanku}}'' consisting of a {{transliteration|zh|dakouku}}, Southern dynasties In the early medieval period of China (220–589 AD), male and female commoners, including servants and field labourers, wore a full-sleeved, {{Transliteration|zh|jiaoling youren}} long jacket (which were either waist or knee length) which was tied with a belt.<ref name=":13">{{Cite book|title=Early medieval China : a sourcebook|date=2014|others=Wendy Swartz, Robert Ford Campany, Yang Lu, Jessey Jiun-Chyi Choo|isbn=978-0-231-53100-9|location=New York|pages=435|oclc=873986732}}</ref> Common women could either wear skirts or trousers under their jackets.<ref name=":13" /> Full trousers with slightly tempered cuffs or trousers which were tied just below the knees were worn under the jacket.<ref name=":13" /> In tombs inventories dating to the early 600s, cases of {{zhp|p=shanku|t=衫褲|s=衫裤}}, {{zhp|p=xiku|c=褶袴}}, and {{zhp|p=kunshan|c=裈衫}} can be found.<ref name=":10" />{{Rp|page=325}}
The {{transliteration|zh|kuzhe}} or {{transliteration|zh|kuxi}} consisted of the ''{{transliteration|zh|dakouku}}'' and a {{transliteration|zh|xi}}, a tight-fitting upper garment, ''{{Transliteration|zh|jiaoling youren}}'' ''{{Transliteration|zh|yi}}'', which reached the knee level.<ref name=":7" /> The {{transliteration|zh|kuzhe}} was a popular form of clothing attire and was worn by both genders; it was worn by both military and civil officials in the Northern and Southern dynasties.<ref name=":7" />
The {{transliteration|zh|kuzhe}} which appeared in the late Northern dynasty, was created by assimilating non-Han cultures in order to create a new design which reflected the Han Chinese culture.<ref name=":7" /> The {{transliteration|zh|dakouku}}, the style of {{Transliteration|zh|kun}}-trousers were bounded at knees and dates back to the Han dynasty,<ref name=":7" /> allowed for greater ease of movement;<ref name=":13" /> they were also worn in the Western Jin to increase ease of movements when horseback riding or when on military duty.<ref name=":10" />{{Rp|pages=|page=319}} In the Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties, the ''{{transliteration|zh|dakouku}}'', especially the ones with a wide bottom, became popular among aristocrats and commoners alike.<ref name=":7" /> While this style of {{Transliteration|zh|kun}} was associated with the {{Transliteration|zh|Hufu}} worn by foreigners and non-Chinese minority ethnicities due to the use of felt chords, a textile associated with foreigners; it was actually not a stylistic invention from the Northern people and were not a form of nomad clothing.<ref name=":10" />{{Rp|pages=|page=319}}<ref name=":7" /> During this period, the nomadic tribes, which also wore their own {{transliteration|zh|Hufu}}-styles of {{transliteration|zh|kuzhe}}, also ended up being influenced by the Han Chinese style due to the multiculturalism aspect of this period.<ref name=":7" /> The {{transliteration|zh|xi}} which was in the form of the {{transliteration|zh|yuanlingshan}} with tight sleeves originated from the Northern minorities was also adopted by the Chinese before being localized and developed Chinese characteristics; the {{transliteration|zh|xi}} was slightly longer than the {{Transliteration|zh|ru}} worn by the Chinese and had a {{Transliteration|zh|yuanling}}, round collar.<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=16}}
<gallery> File:Three Kingdoms tomb brick3.JPG|Shanku (left) and ruqun (middle and right), Three Kingdoms period File:魏晉墓磚畫 耕犁圖.jpg|Male commoner wearing a long knee-length jacket and trousers, Western Jin dynasty (265–316 CE) File:CMOC Treasures of Ancient China exhibit - figure of a female warrior.jpg|Xianbei female warrior wearing trousers and upper garment File:Consort Ban and Emperor Cheng, Northern Wei painted screen.jpg|Servants wearing top and trousers while aristocrats wear paofu and guiyi, Northern Wei painting File:Western Wei Pottery Civil Official (9832712915).jpg|alt=|Civil official in shanku, Western Wei File:Tomb Brick of Wei, Jin, or Southern-Northern Dynasties (10369785576).jpg|Tomb Brick of Wei, Jin, or Southern-Northern Dynasties File:Yanju's tomb, dancer left, table between Yanju and entertainers.jpg|Men wearing shanku. Painting from Yanju's tomb, also known as Jiuquan Dingjia Gate No. 5 Tomb, 5th century AD. </gallery>
=== Sui to Tang dynasties === thumb|269x269px|Attendant wearing a {{Transliteration|zh|shanku}}, Sui dynasty In Tang dynasty, the trousers which were worn by men were mainly worn with a form of {{transliteration|zh|paofu}} known as {{transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}}.<ref name=":7" /> However, the {{transliteration|zh|kuzhe}} which had been worn in the previous dynasties remained popular until the Sui and Tang dynasties period.<ref name=":7" />
=== Song to Yuan dynasty === In the Song to the Yuan dynasty, the {{transliteration|zh|xiaoku}}, trousers with narrow legs, was worn by the general population during this period.<ref name=":7" />
==== Song dynasty ==== In Song dynasty, labourers who performed heavy tasks preferred to wear short jackets and trousers due to its convenience.<ref name=":3">{{Cite book |last1=Hua |first1=Mei |title=Zhongguo fu shi |last2=华梅 |date=2004 |publisher=Wu zhou chuan bo chu ban she |isbn=7-5085-0540-9 |edition=Di 1 ban |location=Beijing |pages= |oclc=60568032}}</ref>{{Rp|page=53}} In this period, the {{transliteration|zh|duanhe}} worn by poor people were short length clothing and were made out of coarse fabric.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2008 |title=Costume in the Song Dynasty |url=http://en.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_28394.htm |access-date=2022-07-02 |website=en.chinaculture.org}}</ref>
<gallery> File:蠶織圖局部5.jpg|A woman (in the middle) wearing a {{transliteration|zh|shanku}} with an apron; a Song dynasty painting File:Qingming Festival Detail 14.jpg|Peasant men wearing {{transliteration|zh|shanku}}, Song dynasty painting File:Qingming Festival Detail 3.jpg|Seller wearing {{transliteration|zh|shanku}} File:Qingming Festival Detail 13.jpg|A man wearing {{transliteration|zh|shanku}} vs men wearing {{transliteration|zh|paofu}} </gallery>
==== Yuan dynasty ==== {{Main|Fashion in the Yuan dynasty|Terlig|Hufu}} thumb|Shanku worn by farming man, Yuan dynasty In Yuan dynasty, some scholars and commoners wore the terlig, a Mongol-style {{transliteration|zh|kuzhe}}, which was braided at the waists and had pleats and narrow-fitting sleeves.<ref name=":12" />{{Clear}}
=== Ming dynasty === In Ming dynasty, the trousers with open-rise and close-rise were worn by men and women.<ref name=":7" /> Women in Ming continued to wear trousers under their skirts.<ref name=":7" /><gallery> File:人物肖像2.jpg|Ming dynasty portrait of a person wearing white trousers and blue top File:Fisherman Zang Lu.jpg|Fisherman, Ming dynasty painting </gallery>
==== Appearance of standing collars ==== In the late Ming dynasty, jackets with high collars started to appear.<ref name=":15" />{{Rp|page=|pages=93–94}} The standup collar were closed with interlocking buttons made of gold and silver,<ref name=":02">{{Cite book|last1=Hao|first1=Xiao’ang|last2=Yin|first2=Zhihong|title=Proceedings of the 4th International Conference on Art Studies: Science, Experience, Education (ICASSEE 2020) |chapter=Research on Design Aesthetics and Cultural Connotation of Gold and Silver Interlocking Buckle in the Ming Dynasty |date=2020|chapter-url=https://doi.org/10.2991/assehr.k.200907.030|location=Paris, France|publisher=Atlantis Press|doi=10.2991/assehr.k.200907.030|isbn=978-94-6239-051-5 |s2cid=221756137 }}</ref> called {{zhp|p=zimukou|s=子母扣}}.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Zimu Kou - Exquisite Ming Style Hanfu Button - 2021|url=https://www.newhanfu.com/15961.html|access-date=2021-12-12|website=www.newhanfu.com|date=25 May 2021 |language=en-US}}</ref> The appearance of interlocking buckle promoted the emergence and the popularity of the standup collar and the Chinese jacket with buttons at the front, and laid the foundation of the use of Chinese knot buckles.<ref name=":02" /> In women garments of the Ming dynasty, the standup collar with gold and silver interlocking buckles became one of the most distinctive and popular form of clothing structure; it became commonly used in women's clothing reflecting the conservative concept of Ming women's chastity by keeping their bodies covered and due to the climate changes during the Ming dynasty (i.e. the average temperature was low in China).<ref name=":02" />
=== Qing dynasty – 19th century === The high collar jacket continued to be worn in Qing dynasty, but it was not a common feature until the 20th century.<ref name=":15" />{{Rp|page=|pages=93–94}} In the late Qing, the high collar become more popular and was integrated to the jacket and robe of the Chinese and the Manchu becoming a regular garment feature instead of an occasional feature. For the Han Chinese women, the stand-up collar became a defining feature of their long jacket; this long jacket with high collar could be worn over their trousers but also over their skirts (i.e. aoqun). The high collar remained a defining feature of their jacket even in the first few years of the republic.<ref name=":15" />{{Rp|page=|pages=93–94}}
In Qing dynasty, Han Chinese women who wore {{transliteration|zh|shanku}} without wearing a skirt on top of their trousers were typically people born from the lower social class.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|pages=|page=82}} Otherwise, they would wear trousers under their skirts which is in accordance with the traditions since the Han dynasty.<ref name=":7" /> In Mesny's Chinese Miscellany written in 1897 by William Mesny, it was however observed that skirts were worn by Chinese women over their trousers in some regions of China, but that in most areas, skirts were only used when women would go out for paying visits.<ref name=":04">{{Cite book |last=Mesny |first=William |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=AjdBAQAAMAAJ&dq=skirt%20chinese&pg=PA371 |title=Mesny's Chinese Miscellany. |date=1897 |publisher=China Gazette Office |oclc=810192986}}</ref>{{Rp|page=371}} He also observed that the wearing of trousers was a national custom for Chinese women and that trousers were worn in their homes when they would do house chores; he observed that women were dressed almost like men when working at home, except that their trousers had trims at the bottom of different coloured materials.<ref name=":04" />{{Rp|page=371}}
In the 19th century, the ''shan'' was long in length and the trousers ''ku'' was wide.<ref name=":1" /> In the late 19th century, men stopped wearing the ''shan'' which closes to the right and started wearing a jacket with a central-opening which looks similar to the Tangzhuang.<ref name=":1" />
<gallery> File:男人理髮稱作“剃頭”是從清朝開始的，剃頭顱前的頭髮，腦後留辮子以示歸順清朝。最常見的是剃頭挑子，把全部的剃頭用具都挑在扁擔的兩頭，走街串巷，上門服務 - Sohu.jpg|Qing dynasty men wearing {{transliteration|zh|shanku}}, before 1912 AD File:大夫正為女病人把脈診病。舊時，男大夫為女性診病，接觸其身體時，手部為最極限之部位。- Sohu.jpg|A woman wearing a white ''shan/ao'' and dark coloured ''ku'' File:Playing a pipa.jpg|Woman wearing a blue ao/shan and pink trousers File:THE LADY'S MAID.jpg|A lady's maid File:Trousers (China), late 19th century (CH 18562157).jpg|{{transliteration|zh|Shanku}} outfit, late 19th century </gallery>
=== 20th century === In the 20th century, the 19th-century long ''shan'' gradually became shorter and become more fitted.<ref name=":1" /> The neckband of the shan was also narrow.<ref name=":1" /> Sleeveless and short-sleeved ''shanku'' also existed in the 20th century.<ref name=":4" /><ref name=":5" />
In the 1950s, women of lower status and those worked on farms would sometimes wear ''shanku'' which was decorated with floral patterns and checks.<ref name=":1" /> People living in urban areas started to wear Western clothing while people in rural areas continued to wear ''shanku''.<ref name=":1" /> In Hong Kong, ''shanku'' continued to be worn when people were away from their workplace.<ref name=":1" /><gallery> File:Woman in traditional Hakka hairstyle in Toen.jpg|Hakka woman wearing shanku, between 1935 and 1945 File:Old Hakka women sitting rural Miaoli.jpg|Hakka woman in {{transliteration|zh|shanku}}, 1950 </gallery>During the Great Leap Forward, the Mao suit became popular. but it was not expected for children to wear the Mao suit.<ref name=":1" /> While in cities, children started to wear Western style clothing, the children in the rural areas continued to wear the traditional ''shanku'' which were made of cotton checked fabrics, stripe fabrics, or other patterned fabrics.<ref name=":1" />
== Ethnic clothing ==
=== Han Chinese === Both Han Chinese women and men of the labouring classes wore ''shanku''.<ref name=":15" />{{Rp|page=1}} The trousers, which could be found either narrow or wide, were a form of standard clothing for the Han Chinese.<ref name=":15" />{{Rp|page=1}}
==== Hakka ==== The Hakka people wears ''shanku'' as their traditional clothing;<ref>{{Cite book|last=República of China|title=Taiwan yearbook 2010.|date=2010|publisher=Government Information Office|isbn=978-986-02-5278-1|location=Taiwan|pages=237|oclc=706219891}}</ref> both Hakka men and women wear it.<ref name=":6">{{Cite web |title=Hakka Clothing |url=http://club.ntu.edu.tw/~club20433/edress/doc.htm |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210602213959/http://club.ntu.edu.tw/~club20433/edress/doc.htm |archive-date=2021-06-02 |access-date=2021-05-31 |website=club.ntu.edu.tw}}</ref> The preferred colours of the Hakka ''shanku'' is typically blue and black.<ref name=":6" />
==== Hoklo ==== [[File:HK Hoklo DragonBoatDance.JPG|thumb|Hoklo women wearing ''shanku'']]
The Hoklo people wears ''shanku'' which is composed of fitted-style of ''shan'' which has a deeply curved hem and black-coloured trousers ''ku''.<ref name=":1" /> Their ''shan'' was characterized by the bands decoration at the sleeves edges and at the garment opening as well as the collar of the ''shan'' which was very narrow and also consisted of piping rows.<ref name=":1" /> They typically wore bright colours such as light blue as every day wear while colours such as purple, deep blue, deep turquoise were reserved for special occasions.<ref name=":1" />
==== Tanka ==== The Tanka people also wear ''shanku'' which is distinctive in style wherein the ''shan'' and the ''ku'' matched in colour; they prefer wearing colours which are lighter and brighter, such as pale green, pale blue, turquoise, yellow and pink.<ref name=":1" /> These lighter colours tended to be preferred by younger women or by newly married women; they were also worn on special occasions.<ref name=":1" /> On the other hand, darker colours were favoured by older women.<ref name=":1" />
== Influences and derivatives ==
=== Vietnam === In the 15th century (from 1407 to 1478), the Vietnamese women adopted Chinese trousers under the occupation of the Ming dynasty.<ref name=":16">{{Cite book|last=Steele|first=Valerie|title=Encyclopedia of clothing and fashion|date=2005|publisher=Charles Scribner's Sons|isbn=0-684-31394-4|location=Farmington Hills, MI|pages=61|oclc=55085919}}</ref><ref name=":17">{{Cite book|title=Encyclopedia of national dress : traditional clothing around the world|date=2013|others=Jill Condra|isbn=978-0-313-37637-5|location=Santa Barbara, Calif.|pages=760|oclc=843418851}}</ref> During the 17th and 18th century, Vietnam was divided in two regions with the Nguyen lords ruling the South. The Nguyen lords ordered that southern men and women had to wear Chinese-stye trousers and long front-buttoning tunics to differentiate themselves from the people living in the North. This form of outfit developed with time over the next century becoming the precursor of the áo dài, the outfit generally consisted of trousers, loose-fitting shirt with a stand-up collar and a diagonal right side closure which run from the neck to the armpit; these features were inspired by the Chinese and the Manchu clothing.<ref name=":16" />
In the pre-20th century, Vietnamese people of both sexes continue to maintain old Ming-style of Chinese clothing consisting of a long and loose knee-length tunics and ankle-length, loose trousers.<ref name=":18">{{Cite book|last=Reid|first=Anthony|title=A history of Southeast Asia : critical crossroads|date=2015|isbn=978-1-118-51295-1|location=Chichester, West Sussex|pages=285|oclc=893202848}}</ref> In the 1920s, the form ensemble outfit was refitted to become the Vietnamese national dress, the ladies' {{lang|vi|áo dài}}.<ref name=":18" />
== See also == * Ru{{snd}}a type of Chinese upper garment * Hufu{{snd}}non-Han Chinese clothing * Tangzhuang * Hanfu * Ruqun * Hakka people
== Notes == {{Reflist|group=note}}
== References == {{Reflist}}
Category:Chinese traditional clothing Category:Trousers and shorts Category:Jackets