Qun

{{Short description|Traditional Chinese skirts}} {{Infobox Chinese | c = 裙 | p = Qún | pic = MET 30 75 88 closed|150px | piccap = A style of Han Chinese qun, Qing dynasty, 19th century, from the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art | c3 = 裳 | tp2 = Cháng | l = Skirt | l2 = Skirt/ lower garment | lang1_content = Apron | lang1 = English | altname = Qun | altname3 = Chang | j = kwan4 }}

'''{{tlit|zh|Qun}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c={{Linktext|裙}}|p=qún|l=skirt|j=kwan4}}), referred as {{zhp|c={{Linktext|裳}}|p='''cháng'''|l=}} prior to the Han dynasty,<ref name=":7">{{Cite web |date=2022 |title=Smoke-colored lined pleated skirt of thin gauze |url=http://61.187.53.122/collection.aspx?id=2374&lang=en |access-date=2022-06-23 |website=Hunan Museum }}{{Dead link|date=December 2025 |bot=InternetArchiveBot }}</ref> {{zhp|p='''chang'''|c={{Linktext|常}}|l=}} and {{zhp|p='''xiachang'''|c={{Linktext|下常}}|l=}},<ref name=":8">{{Cite web |date=2022 |title=Juanqun |script-title=zh:绢裙 |url=http://61.187.53.122/Collection.aspx?id=1381&lang=zh-CN |access-date=2022-06-23 |website=Hunan Museum |language=Chinese }}{{Dead link|date=December 2025 |bot=InternetArchiveBot }}</ref> and sometimes referred as an '''apron''',<ref name=":4">{{Cite web |title=Skirt (China) |url=https://collection.cooperhewitt.org/objects/18563133/ |access-date=2022-06-22 |website=Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum |language=en-us}}</ref> is a generic term which refers to the Chinese skirts used in {{tlit|zh|Hanfu}}, especially those worn as part of {{tlit|zh|ruqun}}, and in Chinese opera costume.

The {{tlit|zh|qun}} and its predecessor, the {{tlit|zh|chang}}, along with the upper garment called {{tlit|zh|yi}} and the trousers called {{tlit|zh|ku}}, are all indigenous clothing of the {{tlit|zh|Zhongyuan}}, which conformed to the fashion style of the Chinese civilization in ancient times.<ref name=":2">{{Cite journal |last1=Xu |first1=Rui |last2=Sparks |first2=Diane |date=2011-01-01 |title=Symbolism and Evolution of Ku-form in Chinese Costume |url=https://doi.org/10.1108/RJTA-15-01-2011-B002 |journal=Research Journal of Textile and Apparel |volume=15 |issue=1 |pages=11–21 |doi=10.1108/RJTA-15-01-2011-B002 |issn=1560-6074|url-access=subscription }}</ref> Both the {{tlit|zh|qun}} and the {{tlit|zh|chang}}, were both typically in the form of a wrap-around skirt like an apron.<ref name=":2" /> However, throughout Chinese history, the {{tlit|zh|chang}} eventually evolved into the {{tlit|zh|qun}};<ref name=":2" /> and the {{tlit|zh|qun}} evolved in diverse shapes, styles, and construction throughout the succeeding dynasties.<ref name=":5">{{Cite book |last=Dusenberry |first=Mary M. |title=Flowers, dragons and pine trees : Asian textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art |date=2004 |publisher=Hudson Hills Press |others=Carol Bier, Helen Foresman Spencer Museum of Art |isbn=1-55595-238-0 |edition=1st |location=New York |oclc=55016186}}</ref>{{Rp|page=144}} The {{tlit|zh|qun}} continued to exist even in the Republic of China.<ref name=":3">{{Cite web |date=2008 |title=Traditional Beijing Costumes |url=http://en.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_69982_3.htm |access-date=2022-06-20 |website=en.chinaculture.org |pages=2–3}}</ref>

Several forms of ancient style {{tlit|zh|qun}} regained popularity in the 21st century following the Hanfu Movement; this also inspired the development of new styles of qun with modern aesthetics and shapes.<ref name=":11">{{Cite web |date=2020-03-17 |title=How to Choose a Slim Hanfu? - 2022 |url=https://www.newhanfu.com/3670.html |access-date=2022-06-24 |website=www.newhanfu.com |language=en-US}}</ref>

== Terminology == In a broad sense, the Chinese character {{zhp|p=qun|c={{Linktext|裙}}}} is a synonym for the word {{zhp|c={{Linktext|裙子}}|p=qúnzi|}}; both of these are generic words for skirts in China.

In ancient China, the Chinese character {{zhp|p=chang|c={{Linktext|裳}}}} can refer to "lower garments," which included both the trousers called {{tlit|zh|ku}} and the {{tlit|zh|qun}} skirt also called {{tlit|zh|chang}} which also use the same character {{lang|zh|裳}}. The term {{tlit|zh|qun}} with the Chinese character {{Linktext|lang=zh|帬}} also referred to skirt .<ref name=":12">{{Cite book |last=Cheung |first=Kam-Siu |url=http://dx.doi.org/10.4324/9781315675541 |title=The Routledge Encyclopedia of the Chinese Language |date=2016-04-14 |publisher=Taylor & Francis |isbn=9781317382492 |editor-last=Chan |editor-first=Sin-Wai |chapter=30. Lexicography |doi=10.4324/9781315675541}}</ref> According to the {{tlit|zh|Fangyan}}, the {{zhp|p=qun|c=帬}} was called {{zhp|p=pei|c={{Linktext|帔}}}} in the area of Wei and Chen; it was also called {{zhp|p=bai|c={{Linktext|襬}}}} by some people from the east of the Pass.<ref name=":12" /><ref>{{Cite web |title=Fang Yan :《第四》 |url=https://ctext.org/fang-yan/di-si |access-date=2022-06-24 |website=ctext.org |language=zh-TW}}</ref> The {{tlit|zh|Shuowen jiezi}} also explains that the term {{tlit|zh|qun}} which uses the character {{lang|zh|帬}} is the same as the term {{tlit|zh|xiachang}} which uses the characters {{Linktext|lang=zh|下|常}}.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Shuo Wen Jie Zi : 卷八 : 巾部 |url=https://ctext.org/shuo-wen-jie-zi/jin-bu1 |access-date=2022-06-24 |website=ctext.org |language=zh-TW}}</ref> It also explains that the {{tlit|zh|chang}}, which uses the Chinese character {{Linktext|lang=zh|常}}, is a skirt by using the term {{tlit|zh|xiaqun}} with the characters {{Linktext|lang=zh|下|帬}}.<ref name=":1">{{Cite book |last1=Carr |first1=David |title=Space, Time, and Culture |last2=Cheung |first2=Chan-Fai |publisher=Springer Netherlands |others=Canhui Zhang, Chan-Fai Cheung, David Carr |date=18 October 2004 |isbn=9781402028236 |location=Dordrecht|oclc=853261045 }}</ref>{{Rp|page=203}}<ref>{{Cite book |last=Michael |first=Thomas |title=Philosophical Enactment and Bodily Cultivation in Early Daoism In the Matrix of the Daodejing |publisher=Bloomsbury Publishing |year=2021 |isbn=9781350236677}}</ref>

There are also specific terms which are related to the {{tlit|zh|qun}}, such as {{zhp|p=chenqun|c={{Linktext|衬裙}}|l=inner skirt / petticoat}} and {{tlit|zh|danqun}}. The {{tlit|zh|danqun}} is a generic term which refers to unlined skirts.<ref name=":10">{{Cite book |last1=Zang |first1=Yingchun |title=Zhongguo chuan tong fu shi |last2=臧迎春. |date=2003 |publisher=Wu zhou chuan bo chu ban she [五洲传播出版社] |others=李竹润., 王德华., 顾映晨. |isbn=7-5085-0279-5 |edition=Di 1 ban |location=Beijing |pages= |script-title=zh:中国传统服饰 |trans-title=Chinese traditional costumes and ornaments |oclc=55895164}}</ref>{{Rp|page=36}} The {{tlit|zh|chenqun}} is a generic term which typically refer to a form of inner skirt.

== History == {{Expand section|date=June 2022}}{{Main|Hanfu}}

In the ancient times, the {{tlit|zh|qun}} was referred as {{tlit|zh|chang}} and existed even prior to the creation of the trousers called {{tlit|zh|ku}}.<ref name=":2" /> The {{tlit|zh|chang}} appeared on unearthed artifacts dating as early as the Shang dynasty; the {{tlit|zh|chang}} eventually evolved into what became known as the {{tlit|zh|qun}}.<ref name=":2" />

=== Warring states period and Qin dynasty === In the Warring States period, men could also wear short skirts similar to a kilt.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Xu |first=Zhuoyun |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=a2_GQpLPPl8C&dq=jacket%20skirt%20han%20dynasty&pg=PA166 |title=China : a new cultural history |date=2012 |publisher=Columbia University Press |others=Timothy Danforth Baker, Michael S. Duke |isbn=978-0-231-15920-3 |location=New York |pages= |oclc=730906510}}</ref>{{Rp|page=166}}

=== Han dynasty === Several wrap-over {{tlit|zh|qun}} were found in the Han dynasty tombs.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=144}} The {{zhp|c={{Linktext|褶|裥|裙}}|p=zhějiǎnqúnqún|l=pleated skirt}} first appeared in the Eastern Han dynasty.<ref name=":7" /> According to the story, however, the wearing of short skirts with pleats first appeared in the Western Han dynasty when Feng Wufang saved Zhao Feiyan from falling; but while saving her, her skirt had been ripped.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Milburn |first=Olivia |title=The Empress in the Pepper Chamber Zhao Feiyan in History and Fiction |publisher=University of Washington Press |year=2021 |isbn=9780295748764 |location=Seattle|oclc=1238129666 }}</ref>{{Rp|page=165}} This led to the creation of a long excessively pleated-style {{tlit|zh|zhejianqun}}, called {{tlit|zh|liuxianqun}}, which was inspired by the ripped skirt of Zhao Feiyan and became popular.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Yao |first=Ping |title=Women, gender and sexuality in China : a brief history |date=2022 |isbn=978-1-315-62726-7 |edition=First |location=Abingdon, Oxon |oclc=1273727859}}</ref>

=== Song dynasty === After the Sui and Tang dynasty, the pleats which were used in the {{tlit|zh|zhejianqun}} increased in numbers, from a few dozens to over one hundred forming the {{tlit|zh|baizhequn}}.<ref name=":7" /> The tomb of Huang Sheng contains various forms of {{tlit|zh|qun}}, such as the {{tlit|zh|liangpianqun}} and the {{tlit|zh|baizhequn}}.<ref>{{Cite book |title=5000 years of Chinese costumes |date=1987 |publisher=China Books & Periodicals |others=Xun Zhou, Chunming Gao, 周汛, Shanghai Shi xi qu xue xiao. Zhongguo fu zhuang shi yan jiu zu |isbn=0-8351-1822-3 |location=San Francisco, CA |oclc=19814728}}</ref>{{Rp|page=121}}

=== Yuan dynasty === The {{tlit|zh|baizhequn}} continued to be worn in the Yuan dynasty.<ref name=":7" />

=== Qing dynasty === The {{tlit|zh|qun}} continued to be worn in the Qing dynasty.<ref name=":3" /> In this period, the {{tlit|zh|qun}} worn by the Han Chinese were often {{tlit|zh|mamianqun}} which featured pleats and embroideries at the panels and decorative borders.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=144}} The late Qing dynasty {{tlit|zh|qun}} were also heavier compared to those worn in the earlier times as they were weighted by the embroideries and pleats.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=144}}

=== Republic of China === During the early period of the Republic of China, people in Beijing continued to wear the clothing worn in the Qing dynasty.<ref name=":3" /> Women continued to wear the {{tlit|zh|qun}}; however, the {{tlit|zh|qun}} had evolved in style and had become shorter.<ref name=":3" />

== Types and styles in {{tlit|zh|Hanfu}} == The {{tlit|zh|qun}} can also have specific names based on the styles, design and constructions, the number of pleats and colours. In {{tlit|zh|Hanfu}}, the {{tlit|zh|qun}} can be used in set of attire, such as the {{tlit|zh|ruqun}}, {{tlit|zh|qungua}}, {{tlit|zh|xiuhefu}}. In some dynasties, the {{tlit|zh|qun}} could be found very long and was tied under the armpits either below or above the bust regions;<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=144}} for example, in the {{tlit|zh|qixiong ruqun}}. In other dynasties, the {{tlit|zh|qun}} could be tied at the waist level.<ref name=":7" />

=== {{tlit|zh|Poqun}} === {{zhp|p=Poqun|c={{Linktext|破裙}}|l=broken skirt}} are a form of {{tlit|zh|qun}} which are made out of several panel of fabric sewn together instead of using a single piece of cloth,<ref name=":11" /> similar to a gore skirt.

==== {{tlit|zh|Danqun}} and {{tlit|zh|chenqun}} ==== {{See also|Maweiqun}} thumb|A four-panel danqun made of thin silk, Mawangdui tomb No.1, Western Han dynasty In the Qin and Han dynasties, the {{tlit|zh|danqun}} were made out of four panel of fabrics which were sewn together.<ref name=":10" />{{Rp|page=36}} The upper parts were narrower than the lower parts; and there were also two pieces in the middle were also narrower than those which were found at the sides of the {{tlit|zh|danqun}}.<ref name=":10" />{{Rp|page=36}} It was most often found with a belt attached to it; however some women preferred to use a separate belt.<ref name=":10" />{{Rp|page=36}}

The four-panel {{tlit|zh|poqun}}, as the one found in the Mawangdui tomb No.1 dating from the Western Han dynasty, was used as a form of {{zhp|p=chenqun|c={{Linktext|衬裙}}}} and was usually worn over the {{tlit|zh|zhijupao}} or under the {{tlit|zh|qujupao}}.<ref name=":8" /> This form of {{tlit|zh|poqun}} also had a waist belt which was sewed at the upper part of the skirt and both ends of the waist belt would extend to form the ties.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Thin silk skirt |url=http://61.187.53.122/Collection.aspx?id=1381&lang=en |access-date=2022-06-24 |website=Hunan Museum }}{{Dead link|date=December 2025 |bot=InternetArchiveBot }}</ref>

==== {{tlit|zh|Jiansequn}} ==== {{zhp|p=Jiansequn|c=間色裙|l=inter-coloured skirt}} are a form of {{tlit|zh|poqun}} made of alternative strips of fabric of two different colours sewn together.<ref>{{Cite book |title=China : dawn of a golden age, 200-750 AD |date=2004 |publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art |others=James C. Y. Watt, Prudence Oliver Harper, Metropolitan Museum of Art |isbn=1-58839-126-4 |location=New York |oclc=55846475}}</ref>{{Rp|page=289}} Its structure can be traced back to the late Northern Wei dynasty and continued to be used until the Five dynasties and Ten kingdoms period.<ref name=":13">{{Cite web |last=Shi |first=Meihua |date=2018 |script-title=zh:窄袖高腰间色裙源流考--《陕西师范大学》2018年硕士论文 |url=https://cdmd.cnki.com.cn/Article/CDMD-10718-1018229615.htm |access-date=2022-08-18 |website=cdmd.cnki.com.cn |publisher=陕西师范大学 }}{{Dead link|date=July 2025 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> This form of skirt was high-waist during the Sui and the Tang dynasties and were characteristics clothing for women during this time period.<ref name=":13" /> The evolution process of the {{tlit|zh|Jiansequn}} reflects the multiculturalism context, the cultural exchange, and the cultural integration which occurred between the Han Chinese, the northern ethnic minority culture, and the culture of the Western regions which occurred from the late Northern Wei dynasty to the Sui and Tang dynasties.<ref name=":13" /> The design of the skirt thus reflects the gradual integration of {{tlit|zh|Hanfu}} and {{tlit|zh|Hufu}}.<ref name=":13" /><gallery mode="packed" caption="Various forms of {{tlit|zh|Jiansequn}}"> File:前秦紫缬襦绯碧裙.jpg|alt=|A waist-length {{tlit|zh|Jiansequn}}, former Qin File:新城公主墓壁畫1.JPG|alt=|A floor-length jiansequn tied above the bust-level, Tang dynasty. </gallery>

=== {{tlit|zh|Zhejianqun}} === [[File:Gauze Skirt, Southern Song (33521296162).jpg|thumb|{{tlit|zh|Zhejianqun}} made of gauze, Southern Song dynasty.]] Pleated skirts are called {{zhp|c={{Linktext|褶|裥裙}}|p=zhějiǎnqúnqún|l=pleated skirt}}.<ref name=":7" /><ref name=":9">{{Cite web |date=2022 |title=Yanse chanzhihehualuo zhejianqun |script-title=zh:烟色缠枝荷花罗褶裥裙 |trans-title=Smoke-colored lined pleated skirt of thin gauze |url=http://61.187.53.122/collection.aspx?id=2374&lang=zh-CN |access-date=2022-06-23 |website=Hunan Museum |language=Chinese }}{{Dead link|date=December 2025 |bot=InternetArchiveBot }}</ref> There are several forms of {{tlit|zh|zhejianqun}}, such as the {{zhp|p=baizhequn|c=百褶裙|l=}},<ref name=":9" /> and the {{tlit|zh|baidiequn}}.<gallery mode="packed" caption="{{tlit|zh|Zhejianqun}} used in {{tlit|zh|qungua}}"> File:Dress, two piece (AM 2013.18.1-24).jpg|alt=|{{tlit|zh|Zhejianqun}} used in {{tlit|zh|qungua}}, c.1928 File:Dress, two piece (AM 2013.18.1-37).jpg|alt=|{{tlit|zh|Zhejianqun}} used in {{tlit|zh|qungua}} is closed with a zipper, c.1928 </gallery>

==== {{tlit|zh|Baizhequn}} ==== {{tlit|zh|Baizhequn}} is a form of wrap-around skirt which was tied at the waist level; it consisted of over 100 pleats in numbers.<ref name=":7" /> Each pleats were fixed to the waistband of the skirt and each pleats had the same width.<ref name=":7" />

{{Clear}}

==== {{tlit|zh|Mamianqun}} and its variant ==== {{Main|Mamianqun}}

The {{tlit|zh|mamianqun}} was a wrap-around skirt composed of two overlapping panels of fabric which was tied at the waist level. It was characterized with a flat front and pleats on the two sides. The {{tlit|zh|yulinqun}} "fish-scale skirt"<ref name=":4" />) was a variant of the {{tlit|zh|mamianqun}} and featured small pleats which gave a ripple effects.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=144}} The early prototypes of the {{tlit|zh|mamianqun}} was the {{tlit|zh|baidiequn}} and the {{tlit|zh|liangpianqun}}. A derivative of the {{tlit|zh|mamianqun}} is the skirt used in the {{tlit|zh|Xiuhefu}}, which is also called {{tlit|zh|mamianqun}}.{{NoteTag|See page Xiuhefu for references and detailed explanation}}<gallery mode="packed" caption="Various styles of mamianqun and its derivatives"> File:Skirt (AM 1944.51-1).jpg|alt=|Standard {{tlit|zh|mamianqun}}, Qing dynasty File:Skirt, bridal, woman's (AM 1966.181-6).jpg|alt=|{{tlit|zh|Yulinqun}}, Qing dynasty, late 19th century File:Woman's skirt (yulin baizhe qun), China, Qing Dynasty, c. 1880-1900, damask and satin - Patricia Harris Gallery of Textiles & Costume, Royal Ontario Museum - DSC09380.JPG|alt=|{{tlit|zh|Yulin baizhequn}}, Qing dynasty File:Skirt, woman's (AM 11750-1).jpg|alt=|Yuehuaqun (月華裙) File:MET 30 75 88 closed.jpg|alt=|Langanqun File:A bride in Xiuhe dress between Taihedian and Zhonghedian (20220218120518) (skirt).jpg|Mamianqun used in the Xiuhefu, a derivative of the Qing dynasty mamianqun. </gallery>

===== {{tlit|zh|Mangchu}} ===== {{Main|Traditional Chinese wedding dress|Mangfu}} {{Multiple image | direction = horizontal | total_width = 300 | image1 = Skirt MET 1973.110.2ab F.jpg | caption1 = Mangchu with mang (front view) | image2 = Skirt MET 1973.110.2ab S.jpg | caption_align = center | footer_align = center | caption2 = Mangchu with mang (side view) | footer = Mangchu, Qing dynasty | image3 = China, Qing Dynasty, late 19th century - Woman's Bridal Dress, Pleated Skirt - 2005.135.2 - Cleveland Museum of Art.jpg | caption3 = Mangchu with Chinese dragons }}

The {{tlit|zh|mangchu}} skirt, sometimes literally translated as "Dragon skirt" in English, was a skirt decorated with Chinese dragons and/or Chinese phoenixes or with {{tlit|zh|mang}} ("python").<ref name=":6">{{Cite book |last=Garrett |first=Valery |title=Chinese Dress : From the Qing Dynasty to the Present. |date=2012 |publisher=Tuttle Pub |isbn=978-1-4629-0694-9 |location=New York |oclc=794664023}}</ref> The {{tlit|zh|mangchu}} could typically vary in colour; however, red and green were the most common colours used. The {{tlit|zh|mangchu}} was typically paired with the {{tlit|zh|mangao}} jacket.<ref name=":6" />

During the Qing dynasty, the {{tlit|zh|mangchu}} was worn by Han Chinese women; it was typically worn by the wives of Chinese noblemen or wives of high-ranking Qing officials as part of their quasi-official formal clothing attire on ceremonial occasions when their husband would be wearing the Qing dynasty court robe attire.<ref name=":6" /> Wives of the Qing dynasty officials also wore the {{tlit|zh|mangchu}} as part of their wedding attire and as their burial attire.<ref name=":6" />

=== {{tlit|zh|Shiliqun}} === The {{zhp|p=shiliqun|c={{Linktext|石榴裙}}|l=pomegranate red}} was a red skirt which was especially popular in the Tang dynasty.<gallery mode="packed"> File:李震墓提壺托盤女侍圖.jpg|alt=|Shiliuqun (石榴裙) </gallery>

=== Imperial and court attire === <gallery caption="Various form of qun used in imperial and court attire"> File:Imperial Encyclopaedia - Ceremonial Usages - pic361 - 裳.svg|alt= File:Imperial Encyclopaedia - Ceremonial Usages - pic373 - 朱裳.png|alt= File:Imperial Encyclopaedia - Ceremonial Usages - pic355 - 紅羅裳.svg|alt= </gallery>

== Types and styles in {{tlit|zh|Xifu}} == [[File:清_緞地彩繡孔雀羽紋羅漢衣-Theatrical_skirt_with_peacock_feather_design_MET_32_63_1_O.jpeg|thumb|{{tlit|zh|Zhejianqun}} used in {{tlit|zh|xifu}}, Qing dynasty, 18th century]] The {{tlit|zh|qun}} was also used as a costume item in {{tlit|zh|xifu}}. There are several forms of {{tlit|zh|qun}} which are used as {{tlit|zh|xifu}} by performing Chinese opera actors, which include the:

* {{tlit|zh|Huadanqun}} ({{Literal translation|flower female skirt}})<ref name=":0">{{Cite book |last=Ye |first=Tan |title=Historical dictionary of Chinese theater |date=2020 |publisher=Rowman & Littlefield Publishers |isbn=978-1-5381-2064-4 |edition=Second |location=Lanham |oclc=1128888776}}</ref>{{Rp|page=|pages=34}} is worn with an {{tlit|zh|ao}} by a {{tlit|zh|huadan}}.<ref name=":0" />{{Rp|page=|pages=293}} * {{tlit|zh|Tongqun}} ({{Literal translation|tube skirt}}): a skirt which has the shape of a tube; it is often worn as outer skirt being worn over an inner skirt, which could be pleated skirt.<ref name=":0" />{{Rp|page=|pages=293}} {{Clear}}

== Similar forms == * Chima – Korean equivalent

== See also ==

* Hanfu * List of Hanfu * {{tlit|zh|Yaoqun}} * {{tlit|zh|Bixi}}

== Notes == {{Reflist|group=note}}

== References == <references />{{Types of Han Chinese clothing}}

Category:Hanfu Category:Chinese traditional clothing Category:Skirts