{{Short description|Type of robe of Mongol origin}} {{Infobox Chinese | t = 貼裏 | s = 帖裡 | p = tiēlǐ | y = tip léih | j = tip³ lei⁵ | altname = bianxianao | pic = 元负匣骑马俑1.jpg | piccap = Riding male figure wearing the Mongol Yuan Terlig, also known as bianxiaoao (辫线袄). | hanja = 貼裏/帖裏 | hangul = 철릭 | rr = cheollik | mr = ch'ŏllik }}
'''Terlig''', also known as '''{{tlit|zh|tieli}}''' ({{Lang-zh|t=貼裏|s=帖裡|p=tiēlǐ}}), '''{{Transliteration|zh|bianxianao}}''' ({{zhi|s=辫线袄|t=辮線襖|p=biànxiànǎo|l=coat with plaited line}}) or '''{{Transliteration|zh|italic=no|Yaoxianao[zi]}}''' ({{zhi|t=腰線襖[子]|p=yāoxiànǎo[zi]|l=coat with waist line|s=腰线袄[子]}}) in Chinese, or commonly referred as '''Mongol dress''' or '''plait-line robe''', is an archetypal type of Mongol clothing for men.<ref name=":0">{{Cite journal|last1=Cho|first1=Woohyun|last2=Yi|first2=Jaeyoon|last3=Kim|first3=Jinyoung|date=2015|title=The dress of the Mongol Empire: Genealogy and diaspora of theTerlig|url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2|journal=Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae|volume=68|issue=3|pages=22–29|doi=10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2|issn=0001-6446|url-access=subscription}}</ref><ref name=":5">{{Cite book |last=Shea |first=Eiren L. |title=Mongol court dress, identity formation, and global exchange |date=2020 |isbn=978-0-429-34065-9 |location=New York, NY |pages= |oclc=1139920835}}</ref>{{Rp|page=49}}<ref name=":3">{{Cite book|last=Y.|first=Watt, James C.|title=The world of Khubilai Khan : Chinese art in the Yuan Dynasty|date=2010|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art|isbn=978-1-58839-402-6|pages=75–76|oclc=696014331}}</ref>{{Rp|page=|pages=75–76}}<ref name=":4">{{Cite journal|last1=Baohai|first1=Dang|last2=党寶海|last3=Dang|first3=Baohai|date=2003|title=The Plait-line Robe. A Costume of Ancient Mongolia|url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/41917645|journal=Central Asiatic Journal|volume=47|issue=2|pages=198–216|jstor=41917645|issn=0008-9192}}</ref>
The terlig was initially developed to accommodate the equestrian and nomadic lifestyle of the Mongols, and to protect their bodies from the cold temperature of steppe regions.<ref name=":0" /> It was sometimes decorated with ''cloud collar'' ({{zhi|c=雲肩|p=yunjian|l=cloud-shoulder}}) pattern which decorated around the robe's collar, chest, and shoulders area.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=49–51}} As the terlig gained symbolic meaning with time and as it spread into different regions, its shape and design evolved.<ref name=":0" /> Hybrid forms of the terlig was developed as it came in contact with other local cultures.<ref name=":0" /> The terlig was worn in China, Central Asia, Korea, the Mughal Empire in India,<ref name=":0" /> and in medieval Egypt, Turkey, Persia, and other parts of West Asia.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Stillman |first=Yedida |title=Arab Dress, A Short History: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times}}</ref> It is still worn as Mongol ethnic clothing in some regions.<ref name=":0" />
== Terminology == The origins of the term ''terlig'' are debatable.<ref name=":0" /> It may have come from the Turkic word {{Lang|trk|tärlik}}''.<ref name=":0" />''
== History ==
=== Mongolia === ==== Origins ==== The terlig is of Mongol origins. According to a paper published in 2003, no terlig were found in Han Chinese nationalities and in other nationalities in Northern China prior to the establishment of the Yuan dynasty.<ref name=":4" /> Originally, the Mongol terlig was a type of long, knee-length coat with a front-opening coat with voluminous folds along the waistline and side vents at the side to provide ease of movement; it also has long and tight sleeves, tight-fitting bodice, a wide waistband and the coat is fastened at the side.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=|pages=75–76}} It was made with animal hides.<ref name=":0" />
==== Mongolian ethnic clothing ==== In modern times, the term ''terlig'' is still used to describe Mongolian ethnic clothing.<ref name=":0" /> The Buryats wear a coat called {{Transliteration|bua|tyrlyk}} which can refer to a coat which can come with or without folds at the waist.<ref name=":0" />
=== China === ==== Yuan dynasty (1271-1368 AD) ==== {{Main|Fashion in the Yuan dynasty}} [[File:Imperial_Encyclopaedia_-_Ceremonial_Usages_-_pic414_-_腰線襖子.svg|left|thumb|264x264px|Illustration of the {{Transliteration|zh|yaoxianao[zi]}} from the Chinese encyclopedia ''Gujin Tushu Jicheng'', between 1700 and 1725 AD]] In the Yuan dynasty, the terlig was known as {{zhp|c=|s=腰线袄[子]|t=腰線襖子|p=yaoxianao[zi]}} or {{zhp|p=bianxianao|c=|s=辫线袄|t=辮線襖}} in Chinese literature;<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=|pages=75–76}}<ref name=":4" /> it was a popular style of coat and was a very important form of clothing.<ref name=":6">{{Cite journal|last=Wei|first=Luo|date=2018-01-02|title=A Preliminary Study of Mongol Costumes in the Ming Dynasty|url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/02529203.2018.1414417|journal=Social Sciences in China|volume=39|issue=1|pages=165–185|doi=10.1080/02529203.2018.1414417|s2cid=149138176|issn=0252-9203|url-access=subscription}}</ref><ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=50–51}} The terlig became more established and symbolized the attire of people of higher social status.<ref name=":0" /> It was worn by people of all social classes;<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":6" /><ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=50–51}} status markers became the fabric quality.<ref name=":0" /> The jisün clothing was itself a variation of the terlig.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=64}}[[File:Liu-Kuan-Tao-Jagd.JPG|thumb|221x221px|The Emperor and the guards wearing the Mongol terlig, from the painting Hunting scene of Kublai Khan.]]
The terlig in the Yuan dynasty was especially characterized by the presence of numerous narrow and dense folds (or pleats) at waist and by the presence of "waist-thread" decoration on the waistband wherein people would use red and silk threads to fasten the coat on their waist.<ref name=":4" /><ref name=":6" /><ref name=":7">{{Cite web|title=Robe with Decorative Braided Waist Band {{!}} Silk Roads Programme|url=https://en.unesco.org/silkroad/silk-road-themes/mouvable-heritage-and-museums/robe-decorative-braided-waist-band-0|access-date=2021-05-05|website=en.unesco.org}}</ref> These two features were the biggest advantages of the coat which made it suitable for riding horses.<ref name=":6" /> The waistband was large and typically 15 cm in width.<ref name=":7" /> The robe was also calf-length, had long narrow sleeves, and had a cinched waist which was created by the waist-thread; it also had a side closure which was fastened at the right side with ties.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=49}}<ref name=":4" /> The collar could either be cross-collared or round-collared.<ref name=":4" /> It could be decorated with flowers and could come in various colours.<ref name=":6" /> From the early to later periods of the Yuan dynasty, the basic form of terlig remained relatively unchanged, although some variations of the ribbon (i.e. ribboned vs braided waist) most likely coexisted together.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=50–51}}
==== Ming dynasty (1368–1644 AD) ==== [[File:Prince's_Robe,_Tomb_of_Ming_Prince_Zhu_Tan_(10144881036).jpg|thumb|Tieli with waistband features, Tomb of Ming dynasty Prince Zhu Tan.]] Some Mongol clothing from the Yuan dynasty was continued in the Ming dynasty despite the repeated prohibition of Mongol-style clothing, especially during the reign of the Hongwu Emperor.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=147|pages=}} The ''jisün'', a type of Yuan dynasty terlig, continued to be worn in Ming dynasty, where it was known as {{Transliteration|zh|zhisun}} robe.<ref name=":6" /><ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=147–148}}
The {{zhp|p=Daminghuidian|c=大明会典}} records the ''{{Transliteration|zh|yaoxianao[zi]}}'' (terlig/tieli) was worn by the official in charge of imperial protocol during the Keqi period; ''"During Keqi, they wear head-wraps and colourful waist-thread coats decorated with eagles and sparrow-hawks at front and back".''<ref name=":6" /><ref>{{Cite web |script-title=zh:大明会典 - 中国哲学书电子化计划 |url=https://ctext.org/wiki.pl?if=gb&res=706630&searchu=%E8%85%B0%E7%BA%BF%E8%A2%84%E5%AD%90&remap=gb |access-date=2022-05-18 |website=ctext.org |language=zh-CN |script-quote=zh:刻期、冠方顶巾。衣胸背鹰鹞花腰线袄子。诸色阔丝匾绦。象牙雕花环。行縢八带鞋。皂隶、冠圆顶巾。衣皂衣}}</ref> In the Ming dynasty tomb of Prince Zhu Tan (1370 – 1389 AD), a {{Transliteration|zh|tieli}} with tight sleeves and has the waistband characteristics was excavated; this robe was almost similar to the terlig found in the Yuan dynasty.<ref name=":0" />
After being adopted in the Ming dynasty, the tieli eventually became longer, and its overall structure was made closer to the ''shenyi'' system in order to integrate Han Chinese rituals; it also lost its "waist-thread" characteristics in the process.<ref name=":16">{{Cite web |date=2020-10-07 |title=Ancient Chinese Robes for Men: Tieli & Yisan - 2020 |url=https://www.newhanfu.com/6021.html |access-date=2021-07-10 |website=www.newhanfu.com |language=en-US}}</ref> Localized forms of Mongol terlig continued to be called {{zhp|p=tieli|c=貼裏}}.<ref name=":16" /> The {{Transliteration|zh|tieli}} continued to be worn in the Ming dynasty by high-ranking eunuchs.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Yuan |first=Zujie |date=2007 |title=Dressing for power: Rite, costume, and state authority in Ming Dynasty China |url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s11462-007-0012-x |journal=Frontiers of History in China |volume=2 |issue=2 |pages=181–212 |doi=10.1007/s11462-007-0012-x |issn=1673-3401 |s2cid=195069294|url-access=subscription }}</ref> The {{Transliteration|zh|tieli}} could also be decorated with ornate patterns, such as the {{zhp|p=feiyufu|s=飞鱼服|t=飛魚服|l=flying fish clothing}}.<ref name=":16" />
Another new style of Ming dynasty tieli was the ''pleated robe'' ({{zhi|c=褶(摺)子衣|p=Zhě(zhé)ziyī}}), which was also derived from and heavily influenced by the Yuan dynasty's {{Transliteration|zh|yaoxianao[zi]}}.<ref name=":6" /><ref name=":2">{{Cite web |script-title=zh:民族服饰 - 采风纪实 - - 丝博之旅——（明）棉布贴里 |url=http://www.biftmuseum.com/oldpic/cfjs-detail?sid=15509#atHere |access-date=2022-05-18 |website=www.biftmuseum.com}}</ref> The lower hem of the {{Transliteration|zh|zhezhiyi}} had numerous dense and narrow pleats (with little space between each pleats) and kept more features akin to the Mongol terlig than the yesa robe.<ref name=":6" /> It also lacked the "waist-thread" characteristics of the Yuan dynasty's {{Transliteration|zh|yaoxianao[zi]}}.<ref name=":2" />
The yesa robe, a new Ming dynasty style of clothing, has some of its mixed-elements either developed from the Yuan dynasty Mongol terlig or from {{Transliteration|mn|jisün}} clothing, which is itself a type of terlig.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":6" /> One of the main characteristics of the yesa was the absence of waistband and the absence of fold on the central front and back of the robe.<ref name=":0" /> It was also longer than the Yuan dynasty's terlig.<ref name=":0" /><gallery mode="packed"> File:明憲宗行樂圖（局部）2.jpg|Ming dynasty Tieli (i.e. terlig). File:明憲宗行樂圖（局部）4.jpg|Ming dynasty Yesa, a derivative of the Yuan dynasty Mongol's terlig. File:Ming Emperor Xuande playing Golf.jpg|Ming Emperor and his servants wearing yesa, a derivative of the Mongol terlig, c. 15th century AD''.'' File:Ming Dynasty Pottery Figure (10092993625).jpg|Pottery figure wearing a tieli, Ming dynasty File:明憲宗行樂圖（局部）3.jpg|Ming dynasty tieli </gallery>
==== Qing dynasty (1644–1912 AD) ==== {{Main|Qizhuang}} {{See also|Dragon robe|Mangfu}}
In the Qing dynasty, the terlig evolved into a form of ceremonial dress ({{Lang-zh|c=朝服|p=chaofu}}), a robe with folds at the waist.<ref name=":0" /> The Qing dynasty {{Transliteration|zh|chaofu}} was also a Manchu adaptation of the Han Chinese court dress.<ref name=":14">{{Cite web|title=Robe of State19th century China|url=https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/68295|access-date=2021-05-05|website=www.metmuseum.org}}</ref> The Manchu element can be seen from the slim-fitting sleeves and horse-hoof-shaped cuffs, which are the vestiges of the Manchu clothing worn when people were hunting in cold weather.<ref name=":14" /><gallery mode="packed"> File:MET 17 82 2 front.jpg|Qing dynasty chaofu.<ref name=":14"/> File:MET 35 84 3 F.jpeg|Qing dynasty chaofu, second half of the 19th century. It features a fully pleated skirt.<ref name=":14"/> </gallery>
=== Korea === The earliest records of the term terlig in Korea date from the 15th century AD.<ref name=":0" /> The term ''terlig'' can be written in several ways in Korea, such as {{Transliteration|ko|mr|t'yŏllik}} ({{Lang|ko|텰릭}} or {{Lang|ko|텬릭}}), {{Transliteration|ko|mr|ch'ŏllik}} ({{Lang|ko|철릭}}), or {{Transliteration|ko|mr|ch'ŏnik}} ({{Lang|ko|천익}}), or {{Transliteration|ko|mr|ch'ŏmni}} ({{Lang|ko|帖裡, 帖裏, 貼裏}}) or {{Transliteration|ko|mr|ch'ŏnik}} ({{Lang|ko|天益, 天翼, 千翼}}).<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1">{{Cite journal|last=Joo|first=Lee Eun|date=1988|title=A Study on the Term 'Cheolick'|url=http://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO198825720595100.page|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles|volume=12|issue=3|pages=363–371|issn=1225-1151}}</ref> The term {{Transliteration|ko|cheolick}} ({{Lang|ko|철릭}}) is derived from the Mongolian term ''terlig''; the term was introduced in Korea through China along with Chinese characters but continued to maintain the Mongolian sound.<ref name=":1" />
==== Goryeo (918–1392 AD) ==== The terlig was introduced in Korea from the Yuan dynasty during the later period of the mid-Goryeo dynasty as daily clothing or as yangbok (i.e. military clothing).<ref name=":1" /><ref name=":92">{{Cite book |url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/en/domList# |title=Encyclopedia of Traditional Korean clothing |publisher=National Folk Museum of Korea |year=2021 |isbn=9788928902873 |edition=English |volume=VI |location=Seoul}}</ref>{{Rp|page=110}} In the Goryeosa, Mongol clothing were typically referred as ''hobok'' ({{Lang|ko|胡服}}; 'barbaric outlander's clothing') and sometimes as {{Transliteration|ko|ilsaek}} ({{Lang|ko|一色}}; 'clothing of one-colour') for {{Transliteration|ko|rr|jilson}} ({{Lang|ko|質孫}} or {{Lang|ko|只孫}}) banquets.<ref name=":0" /> The terlig became more and more common in Korea due to the close relationship between the Goryeo and Mongol court through political marriages, and Mongol clothing was adopted in the Korean court in the late 13th and early 14th centuries AD.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=50–51}} Some artefacts of Goryeo-period terligs have survived time.<ref name=":0" />
==== Joseon (1392–1897 AD) ==== [[File:영암_최원립장군_묘_출토_철릭.jpg|left|thumb|186x186px|Joseon dynasty Cheolick ({{Lang|ko|철릭}}).]] In Joseon, the terlig was written as {{Transliteration|ko|mr|ch'ŏmni}} ({{Lang|ko|帖裡}}; possibly pronounced {{Transliteration|okm|tieli}} in Middle Korean) in a book on music called {{Transliteration|ko|rr|Akhak gwebom}} and was possibly pronounced as {{Transliteration|okm|tieli}} in Middle Korean; there is an illustration of a coat with folds and a waistband in the same book.<ref name=":0" /> Some forms of terlig in Joseon were bestowed clothing from China. The term ''terlig'' was written as {{Transliteration|ko|mr|ch'ŏmni}} ({{Lang|ko|帖裏}}) in the Annals of the Joseon dynasty from 1424 AD to describe presents given from China's Ming dynasty or to describe military uniforms.<ref name=":0" /> In 1444 during the reign of King Sejong, a set of daily clothing was bestowed to the King by the Ming dynasty which included the dapho, cheolick, and gollyongpo.<ref>{{Cite web |last= |script-title=ko:철릭 |trans-title=Cheolick |url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/kr/topic/detail/7203 |access-date=2022-03-24 |website=한국민속대백과사전 |language=ko}} Note that [https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/en/topic/detail/7203 the official English translation] contains an error, writing "dopo" (a different robe style) where the Korean unambiguously refers to the dapho.</ref> The Joseon court also bestowed cheolick to its official, including dallyeong, dapho, and cheolick.<ref name=":92" />{{Rp|page=111}}
In Joseon, the terlig developed further with the disappearance of the waistband along with the increase in sleeve width.<ref name=":0" /> After the 17th century, the bodice of the terlig became shorter than the length of the skirt and formed a high-waistline style.<ref name=":0" /> In Joseon, the {{Transliteration|ko|rr|cheollik}} was a form of court clothing (gwanbok); it was worn by the kings and by civil and military officials.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Official/Court Clothing|url=http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=official|access-date=2021-05-09|website=www.lifeinkorea.com}}</ref>
=== Ilkhanate (1256–1335 AD) === The terlig appears to have been fashionable in the Ilkhanate court.<ref name=":9">{{Cite journal|last=Oka|first=Ildikó|title=Mongol Clothing in the Yuan Period|date=2015|url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/43957434|journal=Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae|volume=68|issue=4|pages=385–414|doi=10.1556/062.2015.68.4.2|jstor=43957434|issn=0001-6446}}</ref>
[[File:Tegüder_et_Shams_al-Dîn_Djuvaynî.jpeg|thumb|234x234px|Tekuder and Shams ad-Din Juvayni. ''Jami' al-tawarikh'', Rashid al-Din, painting dating from c.1430 AD.]] The terlig worn in the Ilkhanate were slightly different from the ones in the China's Yuan dynasty despite some similarities in terms of shapes and while some were also decorated with Central or East-Asian motifs (e.g. cloud collar designs, Central or East Asian-style dragons, phoenixes and flowers such as lotus, chrysanthemum) which were introduced in West Asia during the Mongol period.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=101}}<ref name=":9" /> [[File:IlkhanidHorseArcher.jpg|left|thumb|A Timurid drawing of an Ilkhanid horse archer, 15th century AD.|189x189px]] The terlig worn in the Ilkhnate regions had a combination of both Mongol and Islamic culture characteristics, such as roundel patterns and pseudo-Kufic inscription.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":11">{{Cite web|title=Aga Khan Museum|url=http://agakhanmuseum.org/collection/artifact/robe-AKM677|access-date=2021-05-05|website=Aga Khan Museum|language=en}}</ref> The main differences from the Yuan dynasty terlig is the presence of tirāz bands in the forms of strips and in the way some of the clothing were worn together.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=101}} The Islamic influences led to the implementation of bands (possibly reinforcement strips) along the shoulders and the arms.<ref name=":0" /> The terlig in the Ilkhanate was worn as an inner garment under a short-sleeved, outer coat.<ref name=":11" /> The waist-decoration also appears to have been less common in the Ilkhanate than in the Yuan dynasty.<ref name=":9" /> The collars could also be found in different shapes, such standing collars; this marked another difference from those on the terligs worn in the Yuan dynasty.<ref name=":9" />
=== Timurid Court (1370–1507 AD) === [[File:Ulugh_Beg_with_ladies_of_his_harem_and_retainers,_Timurid_1425-50.jpg|left|thumb|200x200px|Ulugh Beg and retainers wearing Mongol clothing, Timurid 1425-50]] Mongol clothing and Mongol-style clothing continued to appear in Timurid art, such as illustration; this may indicate that Mongol clothing or Mongol-style clothing may have been adopted or worn in the Central Asian Timurid Court.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=147–148}} However, this subject needs to be studied further.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=147–148}}
{{Clear}}
=== Mughal Empire (1526–1858 AD) === {{Main|Jama (coat)}} thumb|188x188px|Emperor Akbar wearing a ''jama''. In the Mughal Empire, the terlig was called ''jama'' (also written as ''jamah'').<ref name=":0" /> The ''jama'' was later renamed to ''sarbgati'' (which means 'covering the whole body') by Emperor Akbar himself.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Chaudhuri|first=K. N.|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=cYY6AAAAIAAJ&dq=sarbgati%20clothing&pg=PA188|title=Asia before Europe : economy and civilisation of the Indian Ocean from the rise of Islam to 1750|date=1990|publisher=Cambridge University Press|isbn=0-521-30400-8|location=Cambridge [England]|pages=188|oclc=20014228}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|last=Jahan|first=Isharat|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=DZiCDwAAQBAJ&dq=sarbgati+clothing&pg=PA92|title=Socio-Cultural life in Medieval History|publisher=Laxmi Book Publication|year=2016|isbn=9780359222803|pages=92}}</ref> The ''jama'' was initially worn by the Muslim ruling class at the Mughal court.<ref name=":0" /> The ''jama'' was developed as part of the introduction of the Islamic culture in India and was perceived as being part of the new appropriation of Islamic identity rather than Mongol culture.<ref name=":0" /> thumb|147x147px|Man's robe (''jama'') with poppies, India.|left Prior to the reign of Emperor Akbar, Mughal clothing was only influenced by geographical conditions and the differences in climate and was not influenced by Indian culture.<ref name=":12">{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=zOqy3gB40mQC&q=mughal+clothing+akbar|title=Sind University Research Journal|publisher=Sind University Press|others=The University of California; University of Sind, Faculty of Arts|year=1985|pages=79}}</ref> It only at the time of Emperor Akbar that alteration of Mughal clothing started to take place.<ref name=":12" />
Emperor Akbar encouraged all of his citizens to wear the ''jama'' and created new clothing regulations in order to integrate the Muslim and local Hindu populations; the direction of the coat fastening differentiated the Indus and the Muslims.<ref name=":0" /> The Indus fastened their ''jama'' to the left side while the Muslims fastened it to the right side, similarly to the Mongols.<ref name=":0" />
The ''jama'' was a clothing which showed hybridity with the local culture of India.<ref name=":0" /> The ''jama'' was a long coat with folds around the waistline without the waistband; it had very long, tight sleeves and the waistline was higher than the original Mongol terlig.<ref name=":0" /> The ''jama'' was long and could either be knee-length or ankle-length.<ref name=":13">{{Cite journal|last1=Sharma|first1=K.D.|last2=Sharma|first2=Swati|date=2017|title=The Imperial Costumes of Mughal Era|url=https://anubooks.com/rjpsss-2017-no-1/|journal=Research Journal of Philosophy & Social Sciences|volume=43|issue=1|pages=233–241}}</ref>
A new style of clothing was later developed by Emperor Akbar by mixing the Indian ''Takwchiyah'' clothing of the Rajput and the foreign ''jama'' to create a long robe which could be knee-length or longer with a round skirt without any slits.<ref name=":13" />
== Similar garments ==
== See also ==
* Fashion in Yuan dynasty * Hanfu
== References == {{Reflist}}{{Types of Han Chinese clothing}}
Category:Culture of the Yuan dynasty Category:Culture of the Ming dynasty Category:Chinese traditional clothing Category:Mongolian fashion Category:Culture of Mongolia Category:Robes and cloaks Category:Coats (clothing)