{{short description|Traditional Chinese attire for men}} {{Infobox Chinese | c = 道袍 | p = dàopáo | l = Taoist robe | pic = Hanfu daopao.jpg | piccap = Daopao (道袍)/ Xingyi (行衣) - formal wear for men | lang1 = English | lang1_content = Taoist robe | hangul = 도포 | hanja = 道袍 | rr = dopo | lk = Taoist robe }}
'''{{Transliteration|zh|Daopao}}''' ({{Lang-zh|p=dàopáo|c=道袍|l=Taoist robe}}), also known as '''{{Transliteration|zh|xízi}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c=褶子}}) when used as a {{Transliteration|zh|Xifu}} during Chinese opera performances,<ref name=":4">{{Cite book|last=Ye|first=Tan|title=Historical dictionary of Chinese theater|date=2020|isbn=978-1-5381-2064-4|edition=Second|location=Lanham|page=48|oclc=1128888776}}</ref><ref name=":5">{{Cite book|last=Wang|first=Guojun|title=Staging personhood: costuming in early Qing drama|date=2020|isbn=978-0-231-54957-8|location=New York|oclc=1129398697}}</ref>{{Rp|page=181}} and '''{{Transliteration|zh|deluo}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c=得罗}}) when it is blue in colour,<ref>{{Cite book|title=Pi lu si bi hua|date=1998|publisher=Hebei mei shu chu ban she|others=Dianfeng Kang, 康殿峰.|isbn=7-5310-1111-5|edition=Di 1 ban|location=Shijiazhuang Shi|page=244|oclc=43293523}}</ref> is a traditional form of {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}} in {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}} and is also one of the most distinctive form of traditional clothing for the Han Chinese.<ref name=":11">{{Cite journal |last1=Song |first1=Ma |last2=yue |first2=Li |last3=xiaogang |first3=Wang |date=2021-07-01 |title=Research on the Ming Dynasty Dao Robe Modeling Method Based on 3D Simulation Technology |journal=Journal of Physics: Conference Series |volume=1965 |issue=1 |article-number=012040 |doi=10.1088/1742-6596/1965/1/012040 |bibcode=2021JPhCS1965a2040S |issn=1742-6588 |doi-access=free}}</ref> The {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} was one of the most common traditional form of outer robe worn by men.<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last=Gwynne|first=Paul|title=World religions in practice: a comparative introduction|date=2017|isbn=978-1-118-97227-4|edition=Second|location=Hoboken, NJ|page=222|oclc=972639879}}</ref> {{Transliteration|zh|Daopao}} literally means "Taoist robe";<ref name=":14" /><ref name=":2">{{Cite book |last=Herrou |first=Adeline |title=A World of Their Own: Daoist Monks and Their Community in Contemporary China. |date=2016 |publisher=Three Pines Press |isbn=978-1-365-53752-3 |location=St Petersburg |pages=43–45 |oclc=1011219060}}</ref> however, despite its name, the {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} were and is worn by men, and did not imply that its wearer had some affiliation to taoism.<ref name=":1" /> The {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} can be dated back to at least the Ming dynasty<ref name=":1" /> but had actually been worn since the Song dynasty.{{cn|date=August 2023}} Initially the daopao was a form of casual clothing which was worn by the middle or lower class in the Ming dynasty.<ref name=":4" /> In the middle and late Ming, it was one of the most common form of robes worn by men as casual clothing.<ref name=":11" /> The {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} was also a popular formal wear by the Ming dynasty scholars in their daily lives.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=77}} It was also the daily clothing for the literati scholars in the Ming dynasty.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=181}} In the late Ming, it was also a popular form of clothing among the external officials and eunuchs sometimes wore it.<ref name=":12">{{Cite journal |last=Yuan |first=Zujie |date=2007 |title=Dressing for power: Rite, costume, and state authority in Ming Dynasty China |url=https://brill.com/abstract/journals/fhic/2/2/article-p181_4.xml |journal=Frontiers of History in China |language=en |volume=2 |issue=2 |pages=181–212 |doi=10.1007/s11462-007-0012-x |issn=1673-3401 |s2cid=195069294|url-access=subscription }}</ref> The {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} was also introduced in Korea during the Joseon period, where it became known as {{Transliteration|ko|dopo}} and was eventually localized in its current form.<ref name=":17">{{Cite journal |date=1998 |title=A Study on the Origin and Structural Development of Do-po |url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO199811919949101.page |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume |volume=36 |pages=1–23 |issn=1229-6880}}</ref>
The {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} can also refer to a type of {{Transliteration|zh|Daojiao fushi}}, which were worn by practitioners of taoism, when the term is used in its literal form.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Wang |first=Richard G. |title=The Ming prince and Daoism: institutional patronage of an elite |date=2012 |publisher=Oxford University Press |isbn=978-0-19-990989-6 |location=New York |oclc=796803927}}</ref>{{Rp|page=xvii}} This form of {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} worn taoist practitioners and taoist monks continued to be worn in the Qing dynasty as they were exempted from the {{Transliteration|zh|Tifayifu}} policy.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=181}} The {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} of the Taoist also continue to be worn by modern taoist priests, although it may come in different names.
== {{Transliteration|zh|Daopao}} in {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}} == {{See also|Fashion in the Yuan dynasty}}
=== History and origins === {{Main|Zhiduo (clothing)|l1 = Zhiduo and Zhishen}} Some sources posit that a form of {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} without a cord had evolved from the {{Transliteration|zh|kuzhe}}, which refers to the military-style garments which had supposedly been influenced by the northern nomad warriors from the north in the past.<ref name="Finnane">{{cite book |author=Antonia Finnane |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Ju3N4VeiQ28C |title=Changing clothes in China: fashion, history, nation |publisher=Columbia University Press |year=2007 |isbn=978-0-231-14350-9 |pages=44–45}}</ref> According to Antonia Finnane who noted the {{zhp|p=Gubu gulu|c=觚不觚錄}} of Wang Shizhen (1526-1590), the three robes which evolved from the {{Transliteration|zh|kuzhe}}-style was the {{Transliteration|zh|yesa}}, the ''chengziyi'' (程子衣) worn with a chord around the waist, and the {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} worn without chord.<ref name="Finnane" />{{Rp|page=45}}<ref name=":16">{{Cite web |last=Wang |first=Zhishen |title=Gubu Gulu |script-title=zh:觚不觚录 |url=https://zh.wikisource.org/wiki/%E8%A7%9A%E4%B8%8D%E8%A7%9A%E9%8C%84 |access-date=2022-06-25 |website=zh.wikisource.org |language=zh-Hans}}</ref> The {{Transliteration|zh|yesa}} of this period was a type of new garment which only appeared in the Ming dynasty and was likely localized from and developed under the influence of the jisün the Yuan dynasty.<ref name=":152">{{Cite journal |last=Wei |first=Luo |date=2018-01-02 |title=A Preliminary Study of Mongol Costumes in the Ming Dynasty |journal=Social Sciences in China |volume=39 |issue=1 |pages=165–185 |doi=10.1080/02529203.2018.1414417 |issn=0252-9203 |s2cid=149138176}}</ref><ref name=":22">{{Cite journal |last=Wang |first=Chen |date=2014-09-01 |title=Conservation study of Ming dynasty silk costumes excavated in Jiangsu region, China |journal=Studies in Conservation |volume=59 |issue=sup1 |pages=S177–S180 |doi=10.1179/204705814X13975704319154 |s2cid=191384101 |issn=0039-3630}}</ref> The {{Transliteration|zh|chengziyi}} was developed in the late Ming and bore some similarities with the {{Transliteration|zh|yesa}}.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Li |first=Laiyu |date=2017 |title=Mingdai nanzi fushi——yunxiang yishang xilie |script-title=zh:明代男子服饰——云想衣裳系列 |trans-title=Men's Clothing in Ming Dynasty - Yunxiang Clothing Series |url=http://www.kaogu.cn/cn/kaoguyuandi/kaogubaike/2017/0704/58783.html |access-date=2022-06-25 |website=www.kaogu.cn |language=zh}}</ref> In the same ancient text, Wang Shizhen also noted that the {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} was also called {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}}.<ref name=":16" /> However, the {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}} was another kind of {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}} which had predated the Yuan dynasty and can be traced back to the Tang dynasty.<ref name=":43">{{Cite journal |last=Cheng |first=Fung Kei |date=2020-07-28 |title=Intertwined Immersion: The Development of Chinese Buddhist Master Costumes as an Example |url=https://www.fssh-journal.org/index.php/jrs/article/view/77 |journal=Religious Studies |language=en |volume=8 |issue=1 |pages=23–44 |issn=0536-2326}}</ref><ref name=":32">{{Cite book |last=Yifa |title=The origins of Buddhist monastic codes in China: an annotated translation and study of the Chanyuan qinggui |date=2002 |publisher=University of Hawaii Press |others=Zongze |isbn=0-585-46406-5 |location=Honolulu |page=252 |oclc=52763904}}</ref>
Other Chinese sources also indicate that the {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} had been worn since the Song dynasty (960–1279).{{cn|date=August 2023}} After the year 960 AD, the belted {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} was worn by the Taoist priests in order to distinguish themselves from others.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Snodgrass |first=Mary Ellen |title=World Clothing and Fashion: an Encyclopedia of History, Culture, and Social Influence. |date=2015 |publisher=Taylor and Francis |isbn=978-1-317-45167-9 |location=Hoboken |page=488 |oclc=910448387}}</ref> The broad and elegant robes which were initially worn by Taoist priests were known as the {{zhp|c=道服|p=dàofú|l=Taoist clothing}}; sometimes translated as "Taoist priest robe").<ref name=":8">{{Cite book |last1=Zhu |first1=Ruixi |title=A social history of middle-period China: the Song, Liao, Western Xia and Jin dynasties |last2=朱瑞熙 |date=2016 |others=Bangwei Zhang, Fusheng Liu, Chongbang Cai, Zengyu Wang, Peter Ditmanson, Bang Qian Zhu |isbn=978-1-107-16786-5 |edition=Updated |location=Cambridge, United Kingdom |pages= |oclc=953576345}}</ref>{{Rp|page=21}}
==== Song dynasty ==== {{See also|Daojiao fushi}} In the Northern Song dynasty, Taoism was highly revered.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Chengyu |first=Fang, Alex |title=The Language and Iconography of Chinese Charms Deciphering a Past Belief System |date=2016 |publisher=Springer Singapore, Imprint: Springer |isbn=978-981-10-1793-3 |oclc=1050008489}}</ref>{{Rp|page=94}} During this period, the {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} also became very popular and was greatly appreciated by some hermits and scholars during the Song dynasty and was mentioned in some poems written by Wang Yucheng and Fan Zhongyan.<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=21}} Some scholars, such Shi Manqing (994 –1041), who was a celebrated scholar in the Northern Song dynasty, would often wore a {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} with a scarf worn in a free style.<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=21}} The Shi Manqin-style {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} was liked by some officials who were in their retirement; and therefore, they dressed in this form of {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}}.<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=21}}
In the Southern Song dynasty, it was Neo-Confucianism which arose and flourished; a new form of {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} became fashionable; this form of {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} was the garment worn by the scholars which followed the {{zhp|p=Daoxue|c={{Linktext|道學}}}} Confucianism.<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=22}} In the book ''Rules of Moral Teaching study'' by Zhu Xi, Zhu Xi stressed on the importance of dress code as being the first step for a person to be a "decent person".<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=5}} Since Zhu Xi put so much emphasis on the dress code, the literati eventually gradually developed their own dressing style as an accepted custom, which included the {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} which was worn as a form of leisure clothing.<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=5}} Contemporary observers living in the Southern Song dynasty, such as Shi Shengzu (1192－1274), also noted that the return of the classic-style apparel in the Song dynasty had made the {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} popular.<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=22}} In Volume 2 of the chapter {{zhp|p=Xuezhai zhanbi|c={{Linktext|学斋占毕}}}} in the {{zhp|p=Yinshi yifu jinjiebiangu|c={{Linktext|飲食衣服今皆變古}}}}, Shi Shengzu reported that the {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} had been made popular by the use of {{Transliteration|zh|guan}} and the shoes called {{Transliteration|zh|lü}}; he associated the reason behind the popularity of {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} with the attire style of the Taoist priests, which he observed, had remained unchanged for centuries.<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=22}} He also concluded that the apparel system of the three ancient Chinese dynasties, referred collectively as the {{zhp|p=Sandai|c={{Linktext|三代}}}}, could still be found among the attire-style of the Taoist priests.<ref name=":8" />{{Rp|page=22}}
{{Multiple image | total_width = 300 | image1 = Two men in daopao from liu songnian painting.jpg | image2 = 儒巾 五百罗汉像轴之一 南宋 周季常日本大德寺藏.png | align = center | footer = Men wearing ''zhiduo'' or ''daopao'', from paintings of the Southern Song dynasty. | footer_align = center }}
==== Ming dynasty ==== During the Ming dynasty, the traditional clothing system of the Han Chinese, the {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}}, was restored following the fall of the Mongol-led Yuan dynasty.<ref name=":11" /> The {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} and the {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} continued to be worn in the Ming dynasty; the {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} was similar to the {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} in the Ming dynasty, with the presence of decorative border trims on the {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} as an exception.<ref name=":9">{{Cite web |title=Chinese Traditional Costume - Ming Style Daofu for Male |url=https://www.newhanfu.com/7096.html |access-date=2021-08-14 |website=www.newhanfu.com |date=22 October 2020 |language=en-US}}</ref> However, despite the restoration of the {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}}-system by the Ming dynasty court, the shape of some garment, including the {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}}, had some differences from the ones worn in the Tang and Song dynasties as the clothing in the Ming dynasty had undergone a series of adjustments to their shapes.<ref name=":11" /> The shape of the Ming dynasty {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}}, and its colours, was strictly regulated by the political systems, rules and regulations of the time.<ref name=":11" /> <gallery heights="200px" widths="200px"> Daopao4.jpg|A man wearing daopao with ''dadai''-belt. Daopao2.jpg| Man wearing daofu with ''dadai''-belt. 許樂善.jpg|Xu Yueshan wearing ''daopao'', without a belt. 楊豫孫.jpg|Yang Yusun wearing ''daopao'', without a belt. Lu Shusheng.jpg|Lu Shusheng wearing ''daopao'' with dragon patterns. </gallery>
=== Construction and design === ==== Ming dynasty {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} ==== thumb|293x293px|Ming dynasty-style {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} The Ming dynasty {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} is a full-length. It has a large frontal outer placket and smaller frontal inner placket. There is a pair of ties at the small placket and two pairs of ties on the large placket which is used for closing the garment.<ref name=":11" /> The sleeves are large but are narrower around the wrists.<ref name=":11" /> It characterized by a cross collar, which closes at the right side in the front, in a style called {{Transliteration|zh|jiaoling youren}}.<ref name=":11" />[[File:Shenyi-daopao diff.jpg|left|thumb|Differences between {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} and {{Transliteration|zh|shenyi}}.]]It is also not completely stitched at the two sides and allows for side slits to begin below the waist level.<ref name=":1" /><ref name=":11" /> At the sides of the robes, there are side panels in the form of concealed swing or pendulum structure (i.e. a front and back swings at each sides of the robe).<ref name=":11" /> These side panels at these slits, are called {{zhp|c=暗擺|p=ànbǎi}}, and they were designed to conceal undergarments. thumb|Illustration of the {{Transliteration|zh|dadai}}. The neckline of the robe is often decorated with white or plain collars.<ref name=":11" /> The collar can be either the same or a different colour to the main pieces of fabric. However, the collar is generally the same colour as the hems. An optional additional protective collar called {{zhp|s=护领|t=護領|p=hù lǐng|l=protective collar}} could also be sewn to the first collar. The {{Transliteration|zh|huling}} either be white or dark in colour.{{Citation needed|date=July 2021}}
A belt called {{zhp|c=|p=dàdài|l=large belt|s=大带|t=大帶}} was also fastened around the waist. In total, the structure of the Ming dynasty {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} was made up of 10 parts.<ref name=":11" /> thumb|306x306px|A man wearing a daofu with a dadai belt worn around the waist; it is edged with light blue decorative trims, Ming dynasty portrait.
==== Ming dynasty {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} ==== In the Ming dynasty, the {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} was a wide-sleeved, crossed-collar robe which closes to the right in a style called {{Transliteration|zh|jiaoling youren}}; it also had dark edging at the edges of the collar, sleeves, and placket.<ref name=":9" /> In the collar edge, the {{Transliteration|zh|huling}} was sometimes inserted.<ref name=":9" /> The Ming dynasty {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}} was similar to the {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}}, except for the addition of edges decoration on the robe.<ref name=":9" /> Belts, like the {{zhp|p=dadai|s=大带|t=大帶}} and the {{zhp|c=|p=sītāo|l=silk waistband|s=丝绦|t=絲絛|tr=a ribbon or a thin rope made of silk}} was also used around the waist when wearing the {{Transliteration|zh|daofu}}.<ref name=":9" /> {{Clear}}
== Derivatives and influences ==
=== China ===
==== {{Transliteration|zh|Xuezi}} ==== {{Main|Xifu (Costume)}} [[File:20150803203805 IMG 0659 (19668286223).jpg|left|thumb|273x273px|A man performing as a {{Transliteration|zh|xiaosheng}} in {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}}, {{Transliteration|zh|Kunqu}}]] The {{zhp|p=xuezi|c=褶子}} which is a costume in {{Transliteration|zh|Xifu}}, is a derivative of the Ming dynasty {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} which was worn by the Ming dynasty scholars as an every day formal attire.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=77, 181}}It is also a derivative of the {{Transliteration|zh|jiaolingpao}} which dates back from the Zhou dynasty.<ref name=":13">{{Cite book |last=Bonds |first=Alexandra B. |title=Beijing opera costumes: the visual communication of character and culture |date=2008 |publisher=University of Hawaiʻi Press |isbn=978-1-4356-6584-2 |location=Honolulu |oclc=256864936}}</ref>{{Rp|pages=|page=54}}
In the Qing dynasty, actors who performed in Chinese opera performance were allowed to wear {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}} and {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}}-style {{Transliteration|zh|Xifu}} as they were exempted from the {{Transliteration|zh|Tifayifu}} policy.<ref name=":62">{{Cite book |last=Su |first=Wenhao |title=Proceedings of the 3rd International Conference on Art Studies: Science, Experience, Education (ICASSEE 2019) |chapter=Study on the Inheritance and Cultural Creation of Manchu Qipao Culture |date=2019 |chapter-url=https://www.atlantis-press.com/proceedings/icassee-19/125923391 |journal=Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research |language=en |publisher=Atlantis Press |volume=368 |pages=208–211 |doi=10.2991/icassee-19.2019.41 |isbn=978-94-6252-837-6|s2cid=213865603 |doi-access=free }}</ref> Therefore, the {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}} was therefore allowed to be worn and continues to be worn even in present days, where it is now one of the most common form of costumes worn on stage.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=77, 181}}
When used in Chinese opera, the {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}} is a form of informal dress worn by performers who hold the {{Transliteration|zh|sheng}} role types, which include the {{Transliteration|zh|xiaosheng}}<ref name=":13" />{{Rp|pages=31–32|page=}} and the {{Transliteration|zh|wenxiaosheng}}.<ref name=":13" />{{Rp|pages=3}} Performers playing female roles could also wear a {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}} called {{Transliteration|zh|nüxuezi}}'','' which was also used as an informal robe.<ref name=":13" />{{Rp|pages=|page=54}}
===== Construction and design ===== The {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}} is structurally different from the {{Transliteration|zh|jiaolingpao}}: the {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}} has a trapezoid body, narrower sleeves which is tubular in shape, the sleeves are longer than the wrists, and water sleeves are also added; there is an asymmetrical closure where the right side is right below the shoulder and neck intersection while the left crossing over is tied right under the right arm in a style called {{Transliteration|zh|jiaoling youren}}.<ref name=":13" />{{Rp|pages=|page=54}} There are also differences in the shapes and forms of the {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}} depending on the role types:
Actors performing the role of men wear a full-length {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}} while actors performing the role of women wear a knee-length {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}}; the male {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}} has a {{Transliteration|zh|jiaoling youren}} closure while there are two types of closure for the {{Transliteration|zh|nüxuezi}}, one which has a {{Transliteration|zh|jiaoling youren}} closure and one which has front central closure,<ref name=":13" />{{Rp|pages=54, 276–294|page=}} a style which can be referred as {{Transliteration|zh|duijin}}.
''The {{Transliteration|zh|wenxiaosheng}}'' often wears {{Transliteration|zh|xuezi}} of pastel colours, which is embroidered with flowers and has water sleeves.<ref name=":13" />{{Rp|pages=3, 6}}
=== Korea === {{Main|Dopo (clothing)|l1 = Dopo - a Korean equivalent}} The {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}} was imported from the Ming dynasty to Korea during the Joseon period, where it became known as {{Transliteration|ko|dopo}} and was eventually localized in Korea gaining its current form.<ref name=":17" /> In this period, the intellectual current which had been popularized in Joseon was the Zhuzi studies (viz. {{Linktext|程朱理學}}: {{Linktext|程子理學}} and {{Linktext|朱子理學}}) which was of Chinese origins.<ref name=":18">{{Cite book |last=Li. |first=David C. S. |title=Brush Conversation in the Sinographic Cosmopolis Interactional Cross-border Communication Using Literary Sinitic in Early Modern East Asia |publisher=Taylor & Francis |others=David Li; Reijiro Aoyama; Tak-sum Wong |year=2022 |isbn=978-1-000-57987-1 |oclc=1303084702}}</ref> According to the Joseon literati, Sŏng Tae-chung, who visited Japan in the 1764 at a time when the Ming dynasty had already fallen, when asked what he wore as a robe and headwear by Ryūzan, Sŏng Tae-chung answered that he was wearing the {{Transliteration|ko|dopo}} and the {{Transliteration|ko|bokgeon}} which were the attire of the ancient sages;<ref>{{lang|ko|冠幅巾衣道袍, 乃古聖賢所着}}</ref> the {{Transliteration|ko|dopo}} and {{Transliteration|ko|bokgeon}} were both Confucian attire and dressing style which had been adopted in Joseon.<ref name=":18" />
== {{Transliteration|zh|Daojiao Fushi}} == {{Main|Taoism|Daojiao fushi}} {{See also|List of Hanfu}} [[File:亜細亜大観 12 149 "道士の生活（三） （北平郊外）".jpg|thumb|Three Taoist priests at White Cloud Temple, Beijing, 1931.]] [[File:万寿八仙宫.jpg|thumb|Taoist clergy wearing the ''daopao'' and ''hechang'' of {{ill|Baxian Temple|zh|八仙宫}}, Xi'an, 1910-1911.]] The traditional clothing worn by the Taoist community is connected to pre-modern Chinese clothing and styles.<ref name=":3">{{Cite book |last=Komjathy |first=Louis |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=cH_jBAAAQBAJ&q=taoist+clothing+jieyi&pg=PT259 |title=The Daoist tradition: an introduction |date=2013 |isbn=978-1-4411-1669-7 |location=London |page=290 |oclc=819275585}}</ref> Tradition-based taoists will often wear the traditional robes and liturgical clothing for formal religious and ritual occasions while Zhengyi priests and taoists priests outside mainland China tend to wear Western clothing in their daily lives.<ref name=":3" /> The traditional taoist robes can also be worn as a daily lives clothing by the Quanzhen monastics in mainland China.<ref name=":3" /> There were many forms of daojiao fushi in the ancient China.
=== Daopao/ hechang ===
Some forms of taoist robes are also referred as crane robes ({{zhi|p=hechang|c=鶴氅}}).<ref name=":42">{{Cite book |last=Zhuo |first=Xinping |title=Religious faith of the Chinese |date=2018 |isbn=978-981-10-6379-4 |location=Singapore |page=44 |oclc=1017489156}}</ref> The Taoist priests' daopao which date back to at least the 1800s is not cross collared and instead looks like a beizi in terms of construction and design; a clothing artefact showing this style of daopao is now stored in museums such as the Rhode Island School of Design Museum.<ref name=":10" /> The Taoist's priest daopao are commonly worn by the Taoism priests.<ref name=":14">{{Cite web |title=From the Land of the Immortals {{!}} RISD Museum |url=https://risdmuseum.org/exhibitions-events/exhibitions/land-immortals |access-date=2022-05-14 |website=risdmuseum.org}}</ref> It is worn by middle-ranks Taoist priests; it is red in colour and has motifs at the back and front, on the sleeves.<ref name=":10">{{Cite web|title=Daopao (Taoist priest's robe) {{!}} RISD Museum|url=https://risdmuseum.org/art-design/collection/daopao-taoist-priests-robe-19900823|access-date=2021-04-05|website=risdmuseum.org}}</ref><ref name=":0">{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=R3Sp6TfzhpIC&dq=taoism%20daopao&pg=PA457|title=The encyclopedia of taoism|date=2002|publisher=Curzon|others=Fabrizio Pregadio|isbn=978-1-135-79634-1|location=Richmond|page=457|oclc=810277082}}</ref> Theses motifs decorations can include, the bagua and cranes.<ref name=":0" /><gallery mode="packed"> File:西塞2017·神舟前的道士.jpg|A taoist priest wearing a modern-day taoist's daopao (depicted as a red overcoat), 2017. File:WangChangyue.jpg|Wang Changyue, Qing dynasty. File:Taopriest.jpg|Taoist Priest in Macau, 2006. </gallery>
=== Jiangyi === {{zhp|c=絳衣|p=Jiàngyī}}, also known as "robe of descent" which refers to either the descent of a priest from the altar or of the spirits to the altar, is a common form of Taoist priest's clothing.<ref name=":14" /> The jiangyi is a sign of the higher priestly rank and is worn by grandmasters.<ref name=":14" /><ref name=":10" /> It was worn at least since the Ming and Qing dynasties.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Daoist Robe, 17th century, China |url=https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/53609 |access-date=2022-05-14 |website=www.metmuseum.org}}</ref>
It looks similar to a poncho in structure;<ref name=":14" /> when worn, the robe sits squarely on the shoulders of the Taoist' priest; it is usually fastened across the front with two silk ties which are sewn just above the waist level.<ref name=":15">{{Cite web |title=Daoist Robe |url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O73556/ |access-date=2022-05-14 |website=Victoria and Albert Museum: Explore the Collections |language=en}}</ref> It is made of embroidered silks and is composed of a large square of satin fabric folded into two to form the shoulder line; the shoulder lines continues to the hem of the sleeves.<ref name=":15" /> The robe is slashed in the middle to form the collar of the robe.<ref name=":15" /> It is typically trimmed with border decorations.<ref name=":15" /><gallery> File:邵元節.jpg|Zhengyi taoist priest wearing jiangyi, Ming dynasty. File:Daoist priest's robe (jiangyi), China, Qing dynasty, late 18th to early 19th century AD, silk, metal-wrapped silk, view 1 - Textile Museum, George Washington University - DSC09658.JPG|Daoist priest's robe (jiangyi), China, Qing dynasty, late 18th to early 19th century AD/ File:Daoist Priest's Robe (China), 19th century (CH 18464275-2).jpg|Daoist Priest's Robe (jiangyi), 19th century File:MET TP478.jpg|Daoist Priest's Robe (jiangyi), late 18th–early 19th century File:Daoist priest's robe, China, Honolulu Museum of Art 1678.1.JPG|Daoist priest's robe (jiangyi), China, 20th century. </gallery>thumb|A priest's robe, China, 20th century [[File:Imperial_Encyclopaedia_-_Ceremonial_Usages_-_pic481_-_道衣.png|left|thumb|216x216px|Illustration of a man wearing {{zhp|p=daoyi|c=道衣}} from ''Gujin Tushu Jicheng'', between 1700 and 1725.]]
=== Daoyi ===
The Quanzhen monastic taoist priests and nuns wear a wide-sleeved, cross-collared gown called {{zhp|p='''daoyi'''|c=道衣|l=robe of the Dao}} which closes to the right; it is a standard type of clothing.<ref name=":3" /> The sleeves of the daoyi is referred as "cloud sleeves"; they are wide, open at the ends, and their sleeves are so long that it is past the fingers when extended but can be even longer.<ref name=":3" /> In the Quanzhen order, the dagua is worn as one of the ordinary clothing while the deluo is a formal clothing.<ref name=":0" />
=== Deluo === thumb|A modern-day Taoist.The {{zhp|p='''deluo'''|c=得罗}} is a cross-collared gown with large sleeves.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2020 |title=What is Taoist Clothing? - 2021 |url=https://www.newhanfu.com/4161.html |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210125015032/https://www.newhanfu.com/4161.html |archive-date=2021-01-25 |access-date=2021-04-05 |website=www.newhanfu.com |language=en-US}}</ref> It is worn by Taoist priests of the Quanzhen order is a formal ritual dress which is indigo in colour.<ref name=":0" /> The blue colour is a symbolism for the east and represents having been descended from the first patriarch of the Quanzhen school, Donghua dijun.<ref name=":0" /> In large temples (e.g. Baiyunguan in Beijing), the deluo would be worn by monastics on festival days; the deluo would have wide sleeves which could reach 45 cm.<ref name=":2" />
=== Daogua === In the Wengong temple in Hanzhong, the cross-collar daopao is the standard form of attire and is referred to as {{zhp|p='''daogua'''|c=道褂|l=Taoist robe, Taoist jacket}}.<ref name=":2" /> Their daopao is cross-collared at the front, and the sleeves are so long that only the fingers can escape from the sleeves.<ref name=":2" /> It is made of thick garments and is blue or black in colour.<ref name=":2" /> The daogua can be found in 3 types: {{zhp|p=dagua|c=大褂|l=great gown}}, a long cross-collar robe which reaches the ankles and has a 42 cm wide sleeves; {{zhp|p=zhonggua|c=中褂}}; a cross-collar robe which reaches the mid-calf and has slightly narrower sleeves than the dagua; and {{zhp|p=xiaogua|c=小褂}}, a cross-collar robe which reaches the hip and has sleeves which could either be the same size or narrower than a zhongua; the xiaogua is more similar to a jacket than a robe.<ref name=":2" />
== Similar garments == * {{zhp|p=Sengyi|c=僧衣}} - Long Buddhist abbot robes. * {{zhp|p=Hai Qing|c=海青}} - Buddhist ritual garment. *Zhiduo, also known as {{zhp|p=zhishen|c=直身}} - a style similar to the daopao except that it was decorated with outside pendulums.<ref name=":12" /> *Dopo (clothing) - A Korean equivalent
== See also == *Hanfu *List of Hanfu *Paofu
==References== <references/> {{Types of Han Chinese clothing}}
Category:Chinese traditional clothing Category:Religious clothing Category:Robes and cloaks