Beizi

{{Short description|Chinese Clothing}} {{about|the traditional upper garment with long sleeves|the upper garment called beizi with short sleeves|Banbi|''beizi'' or ''beise'' (貝子), a title of nobility used during the Qing dynasty|Qing dynasty nobility#Male members}} {{Infobox Chinese | pic = Beizi3|200px | piccap = Ming dynasty portrait of man wearing a "Ming Styled" beizi over zhiduo | l = | c = 褙子 | p = bèizi | altname = }} '''Beizi''' ({{Lang-zh|c=褙子|p=bèizi}}), also known as '''beizi''' ({{Lang-zh|c=背子|p=bēizi}})<ref>{{Cite book|title=Zhongguo gu dai ming wu da dian|date=1993|publisher=Jinan chu ban she|others=Fu Hua, 華夫.|isbn=7-80572-575-6|edition=Di 1 ban|location=Jinan Shi|pages=567|oclc=30903809}}</ref><ref name=":6" /> and '''chuozi''' ({{Lang-zh|c=綽子|p=chuòzi}}),<ref name=":7">{{Cite journal|last=Yuan|first=Zujie|date=2007|title=Dressing for power: Rite, costume, and state authority in Ming Dynasty China|url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s11462-007-0012-x|journal=Frontiers of History in China|volume=2|issue=2|pages=181–212|doi=10.1007/s11462-007-0012-x|s2cid=195069294|issn=1673-3401|url-access=subscription}}</ref> is traditional Chinese attire commonly worn by both men and women;<ref name=":7" /> it is typically a large loose outer coat with loose and long sleeves.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|last1=Hua|first1=Mei|title=Zhongguo fu shi|last2=华梅|date=2004|publisher=Wu zhou chuan bo chu ban she|isbn=7-5085-0540-9|edition=Di 1 ban|location=Beijing|pages=50–52|oclc=60568032}}</ref><ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last1=Zhu|first1=Ruixi|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=40elDQAAQBAJ&dq=tang%20dynasty%20beizi&pg=PA18|title=A social history of middle-period China : the Song, Liao, Western Xia and Jin dynasties|last2=朱瑞熙|date=2016|publisher=Cambridge University Press|others=Bangwei Zhang, Fusheng Liu, Chongbang Cai, Zengyu Wang, Peter Ditmanson, Bang Qian Zhu|isbn=978-1-107-16786-5|edition=Updated|location=Cambridge, United Kingdom|pages=17–18|oclc=953576345}}</ref> The beizi originated in the Song dynasty.<ref name=":7" /><ref name=":1" /><ref name=":2">{{Cite book|last=B. Bonds|first=Alexandra|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=6OHjWDbrUaQC&dq=tang%20dynasty%20beizi&pg=PA53|title=Beijing Opera Costumes: The Visual Communication of Character and Culture|publisher=University of Hawaii Press|year=2008|isbn=9780824829568|pages=53}}</ref> It was most popular during the Song dynasty, Ming dynasty, and from the early Qing to the Mid-Qing dynasty. In the Ming dynasty, the {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} was called {{zhp|c=披風|p='''pī fēng'''}}.<ref name=":3">{{Cite book|last=Finnane|first=Antonia|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Ju3N4VeiQ28C&dq=pifeng%20beizi%20ming%20dynasty&pg=PA52|title=Changing clothes in China : fashion, history, nation|date=2008|publisher=Columbia University Press|isbn=978-0-231-14350-9|location=New York|pages=50–52|oclc=84903948}}</ref> When worn by men, it is sometimes referred as {{zhp|p='''changyi'''|c=氅衣}}, {{zhp|s=鹤氅|t=鹤氅|p='''hèchǎng'''|l=crane cloak}}, or {{zhp|p='''dachang'''|c=大氅}} when it features large sleeves and knotted ties at the front as a garment closure.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Traditional Chinese Winter Clothing for Male - Changyi|url=https://www.newhanfu.com/9477.html|access-date=2021-06-24|website=www.newhanfu.com|date=16 December 2020 |language=en-US}}</ref>

== Terminology == {{zhp|p=Beizi|c=背子}} translates literally to "person sitting behind".<ref name=":6">{{Cite book|last1=Zang|first1=Yingchun|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=m7Qf-bjLfA4C&q=song+dynasty+beizi+%E4%B8%AD%E5%9B%BD%E4%BC%A0%E7%BB%9F%E6%9C%8D%E9%A5%B0&pg=PT39|title=Zhongguo chuan tong fu shi|last2=臧迎春.|date=2003|publisher=Wu zhou chuan bo chu ban she|others=李竹润., 王德华., 顾映晨.|isbn=7-5085-0279-5|edition=Di 1 ban|location=Beijing|oclc=55895164}}</ref> According to Zhu Xi, the {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} may have originated from clothing worn by concubines and maidservants, and it was named after these people as they would always walk behind their mistress.<ref name=":1" />

== History ==

=== Origins === {{Main|banbi}}

The beizi originated in the Song dynasty;<ref name=":1" /><ref name=":2" /> it is assumed that it was derived from the banbi, where the sleeves and the garment lengthened.<ref>{{Cite web |last=朱和平 |date=July 2001 |script-title=zh:中国服饰史稿 |url=https://www.scribd.com/doc/7136914/ |format=PDF |access-date=May 20, 2009 |edition=1st |publisher=中州古籍出版社 |language=zh |pages=223–224 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|title=Chinese Clothing|last=梅·華|publisher=Cambridge University Press|year=2011|isbn=9780521186896|pages=36}}</ref> According to Ye Mende, the {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} was initially worn as a military clothing with half-sleeves; the sleeves were later extended and hanging ribbons were added from the armpits and back.<ref name=":1" /> According to both Zhu Xi and Lu You, {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} did not exist in earlier eras and only became popular in the Late Northern Song dynasty.<ref name=":1" />

=== Song dynasty === In the Song dynasty, the {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} was worn by all social strata regardless of gender; however, it was a more prevalent in people of the higher social status.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1" /> Emperor Zhezong and Emperor Huizong both wore yellow {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}}, while the Grand Councillors of the Northern Song period would wear purple {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} with a round collar; this form of fashion remained until the Xuanhe period.<ref name=":1" />

The {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} had a straight silhouette, and the Song dynasty people liked its elegance which reflect the cultural and psychological development of Song dynasty culture that valued simplicity.<ref name=":0" /> Zhu Xi also created some rules for dressing, which included the wearing of {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} by unmarried women and concubines.<ref>{{Cite book|last1=Zhu|first1=Ruixi|title=A social history of middle-period China : the Song, Liao, Western Xia and Jin dynasties|last2=朱瑞熙|date=2016|others=Bangwei Zhang, Fusheng Liu, Chongbang Cai, Zengyu Wang, Peter Ditmanson, Bang Qian Zhu|isbn=978-1-107-16786-5|edition=Updated|location=Cambridge, United Kingdom|pages=6, 33|oclc=953576345}}</ref> While women were allowed to wear beizi as a regular dress, men could only wear it in informal situation.<ref name=":7" /> The male Song dynasty {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} was worn as informal clothing at home because it could be left unfastened in the front due to the relaxed waistline.<ref name=":0" /> Examples of {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} artefacts worn by women dating from Song dynasty were unearthed from the tomb of Huang Sheng.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Silberstein |first=Rachel |title=A fashionable century : textile artistry and commerce in the late Qing |date=2020 |isbn=978-0-295-74719-4 |location=Seattle |pages=57 |oclc=1121420666}}</ref>

During the Song dynasty, the {{zhp|c=鶴氅|p=hèchǎng|l=crane cloak}} was worn as a casual form of clothing by the recluse and retired officials; it could be worn over a zhiduo.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Burkus|first=Anne Gail|title=Through a forest of chancellors : fugitive histories in Liu Yuan's Lingyan ge, an illustrated book from seventeenth-century Suzhou|date=2010|others=Yuan, active Liu|isbn=978-1-68417-050-0|location=Cambridge, Mass.|pages=67|oclc=956711877}}</ref> Hechang were long and loose, and it could be made of down of crane and other birds, it was long enough for its lower hem to reach the ground.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Costume in the Song Dynasty |url=http://en.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_28394.htm |access-date=2022-04-01 |website=en.chinaculture.org}}</ref><gallery> File:Gauze Robe, Southern Song (33548426031).jpg|Unearthed {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} with narrow sleeves from the tomb of Huang Sheng, Southern Song dynasty. File:蠶織圖局部2.jpg|Commoner women wearing {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beiz}}i, Song dynasty. File:Looking in the Mirror and dabs on Rouge Powder.jpg|Song dynasty women wearing {{zhp|p=beizi|c=背子}}, Northern Song dynasty (960–1127 AD). File:CMOC Treasures of Ancient China exhibit - pictorial brick depicting a woman cleaning and drying vessels, print version.jpg|Song dynasty relief of a woman wearing a beizi. File:Sung Dynasty Tomb Painting Found in Tengfeng City 6.jpg|Women wearing {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}}, Song dynasty Tomb Painting Found in Tengfeng City. File:Court Ladies of the Former Shu by Tang Yin.jpg|Court Ladies of the Former Shu wearing post-Tang Style beizi. File:Song Beizi.jpg|Song dynasty beizi, 12th century. File:Beizi song.jpg|A man wearing a "Song Style" {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}}, or {{zhp|p=hechang|c=鶴氅}}. File:秦檜.jpg|A man wearing a {{tlit|zh|pinyin|hechang}}. File:北宋佚名睢陽五老，畢世長像冊頁-Portrait of Bi Shichang, from the set Five Old Men of Suiyang MET DP275671.jpg|Portrait of Bi Shichang wearing {{tlit|zh|pinyin|hechang}}. File:宋梁楷東籬高士圖軸 Gentleman of the Eastern Fence detail K2A000127N000000000PAI.png|Painting of a scholar wearing fur-lined {{tlit|zh|pinyin|hechang}}. </gallery>

=== Ming dynasty === Women's {{tlit|zh|pinyin|pifeng}} became so long by the 16th century that it caused some anxieties to government officials as the women's {{tlit|zh|pinyin|pifeng}} started to look closer to the men's clothing. Traditionally, women's upper garments stopped at her waist, being covered with a lower garment in order to represent "earth supporting heaven".<ref name=":3" /> It was perceived as a confusion between man and woman, as men who traditionally had their upper garments covering their lower garments to symbolize "heaven embracing earth".<ref name=":3" />

The {{tlit|zh|pinyin|pifeng}} was a prominent clothing for women in the late Ming dynasty as a daily dress in the 16th and 17th century.<ref name=":3" /> <gallery> File:Mingbeizi hanfu.jpg|Ming dynasty portrait of a Woman wearing a "Ming Styled" {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} (also known as {{tlit|zh|pinyin|pifeng}}). File:Mingbeizi2 hanfu.jpg|Ming dynasty portrait of a man wearing a "Ming Styled" {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}}. File:'Ancestor portrait' by Qian Lizhai. Ming, 16th century, ink, color and gold on silk, HMA.JPG|Men wearing {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}}, Ming dynasty, 16th century File:湯顯祖像mingdynastyhanfubeizi.jpg|A Ming Portrait of Tang Xianzu wearing "Ming styled" {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} </gallery>

=== Qing dynasty === During the Qing dynasty, the Ming-style form of clothing remained dominant for Han Chinese women; this included the {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}}.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Silberstein|first=Rachel|title=A fashionable century : textile artistry and commerce in the late Qing|date=2020|isbn=978-0-295-74719-4|location=Seattle|pages=22|oclc=1121420666}}</ref> In the 17th and 18th century AD, the {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} was one of the most common clothing and fashion worn by women in Qing dynasty, along with the ruqun, yunjian, taozi and bijia.<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Wang|first=Anita Xiaoming|date=2018|title=The Idealised Lives of Women: Visions of Beauty in Chinese Popular Prints of the Qing Dynasty|url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/26585538|journal=Arts Asiatiques|volume=73|pages=61–80|doi=10.3406/arasi.2018.1993|jstor=26585538|issn=0004-3958|url-access=subscription}}</ref> The pifeng continued to be worn even after the fall of the Qing dynasty, but eventually disappeared by the 19th century.<ref name=":3" /><gallery> File:Detail 万寿八仙宫.jpg|Taoist priests of {{ill|Baxian Temple|zh|八仙宫}} wearing {{tlit|zh|pinyin|hechang}}, 1910-1911. File:亜細亜大観_10_027_"道士".jpg|Taoist Priest wearing {{tlit|zh|pinyin|hechang}} and {{tlit|zh|pinyin|daopao}}, 1931. File:Yongzheng twelve beauties women 01.jpg|Qing dynasty beizi, illustration d. before 1732 AD File:Yongzheng twelve beauties women 10.jpg|Qing dynasty beizi, illustration d. before 1732 AD File:Yongzheng twelve beauties women 03.jpg|Qing dynasty beizi, illustration d. before 1732 AD File:Domestic Scene from an Opulent Household. Qianlong period. Museum of Fine Arts. Boston.jpg|Woman wearing {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}}, ''Domestic Scene from an Opulent Household'', Qianlong period. File:Cao Xueqin, Dream of the Red Chamber (4139329353).jpg|{{tlit|zh|pinyin|Beizi}}, from the 18th century novel ''Dream of the Red Chamber''. </gallery>

=== 21st century: Modern beizi and pifeng === The {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} and {{tlit|zh|pinyin|pifeng}} which are based on various dynasties regained popularity in the 21st century with the emergence of the Hanfu Movement and were modernized or improved.<ref>{{Cite web|date=2020|title=History of Traditional Chinese Attire - Beizi - 2021|url=https://www.newhanfu.com/3458.html|url-status=live|access-date=2021-05-22|website=www.newhanfu.com|language=en-US|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210226040930/https://www.newhanfu.com/3458.html |archive-date=2021-02-26 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|date=2019|title=What's the Difference between "Cloak" and "Cape" in Hanfu?|url=https://www.newhanfu.com/2334.html|url-status=live|access-date=2021-05-22|website=www.newhanfu.com|language=en-US|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210226043503/https://www.newhanfu.com/2334.html |archive-date=2021-02-26 }}</ref><gallery> File:Beizi 1.jpg|Modern pink pifeng. </gallery>

== Construction and design == The {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} has a straight silhouette with vents and seams at the sides.<ref name=":2" /><ref name=":0" /> It has a parallel/straight-collar ({{zhi|c=對襟|p=duijin}});<ref>{{Cite web|date=2020|title=History of Traditional Chinese Attire - Beizi - 2021|url=https://www.newhanfu.com/3458.html|url-status=live|access-date=2021-04-05|website=www.newhanfu.com|language=en-US|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210226040930/https://www.newhanfu.com/3458.html |archive-date=2021-02-26 }}</ref> where a pair of disconnected foreparts lay parallel to each other.<ref name=":1" /> The {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} could also be found with side slits, which could start at beginning at the armpit down its length, or without any side slits at all.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1" /> In the Song dynasty, the {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} was not fastened so that the inner clothing could be exposed.<ref name=":2" /><ref name=":0" /> The {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} also came in variety of lengths, and the sleeves could vary in size (i.e. either narrow or broad).<ref name=":0" />[[File:Imperial_Encyclopaedia_-_Ceremonial_Usages_-_pic476_-_褙子.svg|thumb|Illustration of a beizi,<ref>Gujin Tushu Jicheng, section "Ceremonial Usages" between 1700 and 1725</ref> Qing dynasty.]] In the Song dynasty, other styles of {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} were also found in addition to the aforementioned style:

# There is a style of {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} wherein ribbons could be hung from both the armpits and the back, with a silk belt which fastened the front and back of the {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} together, or the front and back parts of the {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} could also be left unbound.<ref name=":1" /> According to Cheng Dachang, the use of ribbons under the armpits was assumed to have been a way to imitate the crossing ribbons of earlier ancient Chinese clothing in order to maintain the clothing of the ancient times.<ref name=":1" /> # A "half-beizi", a {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} with short sleeves; it was originally worn as a military uniform but it was then worn by the literati and the commoners despite being against the Song dynasty's dressing etiquette.<ref name=":1" /> # A "sleeveless {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}}", which looks like a modern sleeveless vest, was used as a casual clothing and could be found in the market.<ref name=":1" /> They were made of ramie or raw silk fabric.<ref name=":1" />

The {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} also developed with time. The earlier Song dynasty {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} had a band which finished the edges down to the bottom hem, but with time, it developed further and a contrasting neckband which encircled the neck down to the mid-chest; a closing was also found at the mid-chest.<ref name=":2" /><ref name=":4">{{Cite book|last=Bonds|first=Alexandra B.|title=Beijing opera costumes : the visual communication of character and culture|date=2008|publisher=University of Hawaiʻi Press|isbn=978-1-4356-6584-2|location=Honolulu|pages=124|oclc=256864936}}</ref> In the Song dynasty, the sleeves of the beizi was fuller, but it became more tubular in shape in the Ming dynasty.<ref name=":2" />

By the late Ming dynasty, the {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} (also known as {{tlit|zh|pinyin|pifeng}}) had become longer and almost covered the skirts completely which came to look almost like the men's clothing and the sleeves grew larger trailing well below the finger tips.<ref name=":3" /> The neckband, however, was shortened to reach mid-chest and the robe was made wider.<ref name=":4" /> In the Ming dynasty, {{tlit|zh|pinyin|beizi}} can be secured at the front either with a metal or jade clasp button called ''zimu kou'' ({{Lang-zh|c=子母扣}}).<ref>{{Cite web|title=Zimu Kou - Exquisite Ming Style Hanfu Button - 2021|url=https://www.newhanfu.com/15961.html|access-date=2021-06-24|website=www.newhanfu.com|date=25 May 2021 |language=en-US}}</ref>

=== Gender differences === The gender difference is that while wide-sleeved ''beizi'' were considered formal wear for women (narrow-sleeved ''beizi'' were casual wear for women), both wide and narrow-sleeved ''beizi'' were only used as casual wear for men.{{Citation needed|date=April 2021}}

== Depictions and media ==

* In the Romance of the Three Kingdoms, Zhuge Liang is said to be wearing hechang.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Ge |first=Liangyan |title=The scholar and the state : fiction as political discourse in late imperial China |date=2015 |isbn=978-0-295-80561-0 |location=Seattle |oclc=1298401007}}</ref>{{Rp|page=56}} <gallery> File:Kongming Leaving the Mountains (cropped).jpg|Zhu Geliang wearing a hechang (also known as beizi). </gallery>

== Influences and derivatives ==

=== China === {{See also|Xifu (Costume)|label 1=Chinese opera costume}}In Chinese opera, costumes such as {{zhp|p=nüpi|c=女帔|tr=a form of women's formal attire}} and {{zhp|p=pi|c=帔|tr=a form of men's formal attire}} were derived from the beizi worn during the Ming dynasty (i.e. {{tlit|zh|pinyin|pifeng}}).<ref name=":5">{{Cite book|last=Bonds|first=Alexandra B.|title=Beijing opera costumes : the visual communication of character and culture|date=2019|isbn=978-1-138-06942-8|location=New York, NY|pages=53, 124, 330–331|oclc=1019842143}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|script-title=zh:清中期納紗繡戯服男帔|url=https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/53713|url-status=live|access-date=2021-07-04|website=www.metmuseum.org|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160407071733/http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/53713|archive-date=2016-04-07}}</ref> Both {{tlit|zh|pinyin|pi}} and {{tlit|zh|pinyin|nüpi}} had tubular sleeves which were longer than then wrist length.<ref name=":5" /> Water sleeves were also added to the sleeves for both {{tlit|zh|pinyin|pi}} and {{tlit|zh|pinyin|nüpi}}; the water sleeves worn with the {{tlit|zh|pinyin|nüpi}} are longer than those worn with the {{tlit|zh|pinyin|pi}}.<ref name=":5" /> The {{tlit|zh|pinyin|nüpi}} had straight sides and vents and was knee length; the length of the {{tlit|zh|pinyin|nüpi}} was historically accurate.<ref name=":5" /> The {{tlit|zh|pinyin|pi}} had a flared side seams with vents and was ankle-length.<ref name=":5" /> It could be closed with a single Chinese frog button or with a fabric tie.<gallery> File:清中期納紗繡戯服男帔-Theatrical Robe for a Male Role MET DP241377.jpg|Qing dynasty period {{tlit|zh|pinyin|pi}} costume (front view). File:清中期納紗繡戯服男帔-Theatrical Robe for a Male Role MET DP241381.jpg|Qing dynasty period {{tlit|zh|pinyin|pi}} costume (back view). </gallery>

=== Korea === {{Main|Hakchangui}} The hechang (known as hakchang in Korea) was introduced during the 17th and 18th century in Joseon by people who had exchanges with Chinese or liked Chinese classic styles and gradually became popular among the Joseon people; Joseon scholars started to borrow the looks of Zhuge Liang due to the popularity of the Romance of the Three Kingdoms; and thus, the hakchangui was increasingly worn by more and more Joseon scholars.<ref>{{Cite journal |last1=Park |first1=Sun-Hee |last2=Hong |first2=Na-Young |date=2011 |title=A Study on Hakchangui, the Scholar's Robe with Dark Trim |url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO201116637923697.page |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume |volume=61 |issue=2 |pages=60–71 |issn=1229-6880}}</ref> In Joseon, fans with white feather and the hakchangui became the representative clothing of Zhuge Liang, hermits, and scholars who followed taoism.<ref>{{Cite journal |last1=Kim |first1=Da Eun |last2=Cho |first2=Woo Hyun |date=2019-11-30 |title=A Study on Hakchanguis between the 17th and 18th Century : Focused on Confucian Clothing Portraits by Jang Man |url=http://www.dbpia.co.kr/Journal/ArticleDetail/NODE09271850 |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume |language=en |volume=69 |issue=7 |pages=18–33 |doi=10.7233/jksc.2019.69.7.018 |s2cid=214069662 |issn=1229-6880|url-access=subscription }}</ref>

=== Vietnam === The '''Ao Nhat Binh''' ({{Chunom|襖日平}}, {{Langx|vi|Áo Nhật Bình|lit=rectangle-collared garb}}), which was a casual outer garment worn by the female royal family, female officials, and high noble ladies of the Nguyen dynasty during informal occasions, originated from the Ming dynasty pifeng ({{Langx|vi|Áo Phi Phong}}) which was popular in China.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Vietnamese Traditional Costumes: History, Culture and Where to Find Them|url=https://www.aodaicosau.com/2020/10/vietnamese-traditional-costumes-history.html|access-date=2021-06-24|website=Áo dài Cô Sáu}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=Áo Nhật Bình - Nét đẹp cổ phục Việt Nam thời nhà Nguyễn|url=https://dayvetrenvai.com/blogs/goc-chia-se/ao-nhat-binh-net-dep-co-phuc-viet-nam-thoi-nha-nguyen|access-date=2021-06-24|website=Dayvetrenvai.com|language=en}}</ref> The Ao Nhat Binh was further developed in the Nguyen dynasty to denote social ranking of women through the use of colours and embroidery patterns.<ref>{{Cite web|date=2020-10-05|title=Beauty and historical value of Vietnamese ancient costumes in Nhat Binh ao dai.|url=https://vietnamtimes.org.vn/beauty-and-historical-value-of-vietnamese-ancient-costumes-in-nhat-binh-ao-dai-24908.html|access-date=2021-06-24|website=Vietnam Times|language=en}}</ref><gallery> File:Vietnamese woman wearing Áo Nhật Bình.jpg|Vietnamese woman wearing Áo Nhật Bình </gallery>

== Similar items ==

* Daxiushan * Daopao in the form of hechang (crane cloak) - a form of Taoist clothing

== Related items ==

* Banbi

==See also== *Hanfu *List of Hanfu *Hanfu movement

==References== <references/>

Category:Chinese traditional clothing Category:Culture of the Song dynasty Category:Culture of the Ming dynasty Category:Qing clothing Category:Coats (clothing) Category:2nd-millennium introductions