{{Short description|Type of rock climbing}} {{About|a type of rock climbing|the Olympic and IFSC sport of lead climbing|Competition climbing}} [[File:Adam Ondra climbing Silence 9c by PAVEL BLAZEK 3.jpg |thumb|Adam Ondra on the hardest sport climbing route in history, ''Silence'' {{climbing grade |9c}}, in Flatanger, Norway]] {{Climbing sidebar}} {{Use dmy dates|date=March 2023}} '''Sport climbing''' (or '''bolted climbing''') is a type of free climbing in the sport of rock climbing in which the lead climber clips their rope—via a quickdraw—into pre-drilled in-situ bolts on the rockface for their protection as they ascend the route.<ref>{{cite web | website=Cambridge Dictionary | url=https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/sport-climbing | title=Sport climbing | date=2023 | quote=the style of climbing (= moving on rocks, up mountains, or up special walls as a sport) in which climbers use devices that have already been fixed to the rock, rather than using devices that they bring with them and remove after the climb | accessdate=18 July 2023}}</ref> Sport climbing differs from the riskier and more demanding format of traditional climbing where the lead climber—as they ascend the route—must also find places into which temporary and removable protection equipment (e.g. spring-loaded camming devices) can be inserted for their safety.<ref name=UKC>{{cite web|last1=Bate|first1=Chris|last2=Arthur|first2=Charles|title=A Glossary of Climbing terms: from Abseil to Zawn|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/a_glossary_of_climbing_terms_from_abseil_to_zawn-33|website=UK Climbing|access-date=29 April 2018|language=en|date=8 May 2006|display-authors=etal|quote=Sport Climbing. Climbing on routes that use bolts. Traditional "Trad" Climbing 1. Climbing where the leader places protection as they go up.}}</ref>
Sport climbing dates from the early 1980s when leading French rock climbers wanted to climb blanker face climbing routes that offered none of the cracks or fissures into which temporary protection equipment could be safely inserted. While bolting natural rock faces was controversial—and remains a focus of debate in climbing ethics—the safer format of sport climbing grew rapidly in popularity both for novice and advanced climbers. All subsequent technical grade milestones in rock climbing would come from sport climbing.
The safer discipline of sport climbing also led to the rapid growth in competition climbing, which made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics. While competition climbing consists of three distinct rock climbing disciplines—lead climbing (the bolted sport-climbing element), bouldering (where no bolts or any protection is needed as the routes are short), and speed climbing (also not bolted and instead uses a top roping format for protection)—it is sometimes confusingly referred to as "sport climbing".
== Description == [[File:Hulkosaure 8b Verdon.jpg|thumb|left|Climber leading the sport climbing route ''Hulkosaure'' {{climbing grade|8b}}. Quickdraws have already been attached to the line of pre-drilled bolts that mark the route.]] Sport climbing is a form of free climbing (i.e. no artificial or mechanical device can be used to aid progression, which is in contrast with aid climbing) that is performed in pairs, where the lead climber clips into pre-drilled permanently fixed bolts on the rockface for their protection while ascending. The lead climber uses quickdraws to clip into the bolts. The second climber (also called the belayer) then removes the quickdraws as they climb the route after the lead climber has reached the top.<ref name=CN2/><ref name=SC>{{cite book|title=Sport Climbing: From Toprope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success|author=Andrew Bisharat|date=6 October 2009|chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=MI8TCgAAQBAJ&q=climbing+deadpoint+dyno&pg=PT73 | publisher=Mountaineers Books | isbn=978-1594852701|accessdate=23 August 2023 | chapter= Chapter 1: Ethics, Style and Emergence of Sport Climbing}}</ref><ref name=HTRC11>{{cite book | title=How to Rock Climb | isbn=978-1493056262 | edition=6th | pages=291–310 | chapter=Chapter 11: Sport Climbing | first1=John | last1=Long | first2=Bob | last2=Gaines | author-link=John Long (climber) | publisher=Falcon Guides | date=August 2022}}</ref> Sport climbing differs from traditional climbing which requires the lead climber to find places into which temporary and removable climbing protection equipment can be inserted as they simultaneously try to ascend the route—and thus sport climbing is a safer and less physically demanding way to ascend a climbing route.<ref name=UKC/> Sport climbing differs from free solo climbing where no climbing protection is used whatsoever.<ref name=CN2>{{cite web | magazine=Climber (Magazine) | url=https://www.climbernews.com/what-is-sport-climbing/ | date=6 April 2021 | accessdate=2 March 2023 | title=What Is Sport Climbing? – Everything You Need To Know}}</ref>
Confusingly, the sport of competition climbing — which consists of three distinct rock climbing disciplines: lead climbing (the bolted sport-climbing element), bouldering (where no bolts or any protection is needed as the routes are very short), and speed climbing (where a top rope climbing format is used for protection) — is sometimes referred to as "sport climbing".<ref name=CN2/><ref name=SC/><ref name=HTRC11/>
===First free ascent===
Sport climbing developed the redpoint as the definition of what constitutes a first free ascent (FFA), which became the definition of an FFA for all climbing disciplines.<ref name=SC/><ref name=GR1>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/redpoint-pinkpoint-and-headpoint-what-do-they-mean/ | title=Redpoint, Pinkpoint, and Headpoint – What Do They Mean? | first=Aaron | last=Pardy | date=5 November 2022 | accessdate=21 December 2022}}</ref> Redpointing allows for previously controversial techniques of hangdogging,<ref name=CL8>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | title=How to Hangdog Sport Climbing | date=21 July 2022 | accessdate=3 March 2023 | first=Laz | last=Haas | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-hangdog-sport-climbing/}}</ref> headpointing,<ref name=GR1/> and pinkpointing (in competition lead climbing — the sport climbing component of competition climbing — and in extreme sport climbing, the quickdraws are pre-clipped to the bolts for simplicity, which is known as pinkpointing).<ref name=SC/><ref name=GR1/>
== History == thumb|Climber on the famous 1981 multi-pitch bolted sport-climbing route, ''Surveiller et punir'' (7a+), Verdon Gorge, France.<ref>{{cite web| website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/routes/surveiller-et-punir-gorges-du-verdon.html | title=Surveiller et Punir - Gorges du Verdon | date=2025 | accessdate=8 March 2025}}</ref> By the early 1980s, the leading rock climbers were beginning to reach the limits of the existing traditional climbing protection equipment. They looked to climb the blanker face routes that did not have the usual cracks and fissures that are needed in which to place traditional climbing protection such as spring-loaded camming devices.<ref name=SC/><ref name=CD>{{cite book | title=The Climbing Dictionary | first=Matt | last=Samet | pages=203–204 | chapter=Sport Climbing | year=2011 | publisher=Mountaineers Books | isbn=978-1594855023}}</ref> In France, leading climbers such as Patrick Berhault and Patrick Edlinger began to pre-drill permanent bolts into the pocket-marked limestone walls of Buoux and Verdon Gorge for their protection.<ref name=CD/> These became known as "sport climbing routes" — as there was none of the associated risks of traditional climbing, it was a purely sporting endeavor. Early notable examples of these sport-climbing routes include ''Pichenibule'' {{climbing grade|7b+}} in 1980.<ref name=CD/><ref>{{cite web | website=National Geographic | url=https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/exploring-the-birthplace-of-sport-climbing-in-europes-grandest-canyon#:~:text=But%20the%20Verdon%20is%20perhaps,entirely%2C%20all%2Dbolted%20routes. | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210305011832/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/exploring%2Dthe%2Dbirthplace%2Dof%2Dsport%2Dclimbing%2Din%2Deuropes%2Dgrandest%2Dcanyon#%3A%7E%3Atext%3DBut%2520the%2520Verdon%2520is%2520perhaps%2Centirely%252C%2520all%252Dbolted%2520routes. | url-status=dead | archive-date=5 March 2021 | title=Exploring the Birthplace of Sport Climbing in Europe's Grandest Canyon | first=Andrew | last=Bisharat | date=30 July 2015 | accessdate=2 March 2023}}</ref> Around the same time at Smith Rock State Park in the United States, American climber Alan Watts also started to place pre-drilled bolts into routes, creating the first American sport climbs of ''Watts Tot'' {{climbing grade|5.12b}}, and ''Chain Reaction'' {{climbing grade|5.12c}} in 1983.<ref name=CD/><ref name=PM3>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alan-watts-climbing-interview.html | title=Alan Watts climbing interview | first=Nicholas | last=Hobley| date=26 November 2009 | accessdate=2 March 2023}}</ref>
Sport climbing was rapidly adopted in Europe, and particularly in France and Germany by the then emerging professional rock climbers such as German climber Wolfgang Güllich and French brothers {{ill| Marc Le Menestrel|fr}} and {{ill|Antoine Le Menestrel|fr}}. The United Kingdom was more reluctant to allow bolting on natural rock surfaces, and early British sport climbers such as Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon were forced to move to France and Germany. The bolting of external natural rock surfaces was also initially controversial in the US, although American sport climbing pioneer Alan Watts later recounted that American traditional climbers were as much against the "redpointing" techniques of sport climbers (i.e. continually practicing new routes before making the first free ascent), as they were against the use of bolts.<ref name=PM3/> Eventually, these sport climbers began to push new grade milestones far above traditional climbing grades, and the use of bolts on natural rock surfaces became more accepted in outdoor climbing areas across America and Europe.<ref name=PM3/>
===Competition sport climbing=== {{main article|Competition climbing#History}} [[File:Climbing World Championships 2018 Lead Final Pilz 03.jpg|thumb|Jessica Pilz about to clip her rope into a pre-bolted hanging quickdraw in the final of the women's lead climbing event at the 2018 World Championships]] The significantly safer aspect of sport climbing over traditional climbing led to rapid development in competition climbing in the 1980s, where competition lead climbing events were held on bolted routes. ''Climbing'' noted the importance of events such as the 1988 International Sport Climbing Championship at Snowbird, Utah, for introducing leading European sport climbers such as Edlinger and Jean-Baptiste Tribout to leading American traditional climbers such as Ron Kauk and John Bachar.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/snowbird-changed-everything/ | title=Purists in the 1980s Thought Comps Wouldn't Last. Snowbird Changed Everything. | first=Alison | last=Osius | date=23 November 2021 | accessdate=2 March 2023}}</ref>
By the end of the 1990s, the UIAA (delegated to the International Council for Competition Climbing), and latterly the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), was regulating and organizing major international climbing competitions, including the annual IFSC Climbing World Cup, and the biennial IFSC Climbing World Championships.<ref name=GR10>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/events/a-history-of-climbing-competitions-since-1985/ | title=A History of Climbing Competitions Since 1985 | date=15 July 2019 | accessdate=24 February 2023}}</ref> Competitive climbing includes sport climbing (which is competition lead climbing), and also competition bouldering and competition speed climbing.<ref name=GR10/>
==Ethics== [[File:Moritz Welt Joe Blau 8c+ Oliana Spain.png|thumb|Moritz Welt on the extreme sport-climb, ''Joe Blau'' {{climbing grade|8c+}}, in the fully bolted crag of Oliana, in Spain]] Debates remain about the ethics of attaching permanent metal bolts on natural outdoor rock, which is also related to the broader clean climbing movement. Many climbing areas—particularly in Continental Europe (for example notable crags such as Oliana in Spain, and Ceuse in France)—have become fully bolted. However, many others remain emphatically non-bolted, such as Clogwyn Du'r Arddu in the United Kingdom, where only traditional climbing techniques are allowed, and attempts to make even very dangerous routes a little safer with even singular bolts (e.g. ''Indian Face'') have been undone.<ref name=CL5>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/american-sport-climbings-contentious-beginnings/ | title=American Sport Climbing's Contentious Beginnings | first=Craig | last=Smith | date=22 July 2022 | accessdate=2 March 2023}}</ref>
In the United Kingdom, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) maintains a register of outdoor climbing areas that are suitable for bolting, and those which are to remain bolt free; in addition, the BMC offers guidance on bolting-related ethical climbing issues such as retro-bolting.<ref>{{cite web | website=British Mountaineering Council | url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/fixed-gear-guidance-on-north-west-crags-and-quarries | title=Fixed Gear Guidance on North West Crags and Quarries | first=Tony | last=Ryan | date=8 September 2022 | accessdate=2 March 2023}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/places/32-climbing-experiences-inform-bolting-decisions/ | title=Should We Really Retro-bolt That Dangerous Classic? | date=18 July 2023 | accessdate=12 September 2023 | first=Steve| last=Bordeau}}</ref>
== Equipment== {{see also|Rock-climbing equipment}}
===Quickdraws=== {{multiple image |align=right |direction= horizontal |total_width=420 |header= |image1=Setaki.JPG |caption1=A rope clipped into a quickdraw, which is also clipped into a bolt |image2=Fabio Palma, Cardiopalma, 7c, Kalymnos.jpg |caption2=Sport-climber clipping their rope into a quickdraw that is hanging from a bolt, while lead-climbing on ''Cardiopalma'' {{climbing grade|8a}} }} Sport climbing requires far less rock climbing equipment than traditional climbing as the protection is already pre-drilled into the route. Aside from the standard equipment of lead climbing (e.g. a rope, belay device, harness, and climbing shoes), the only important other important pieces of equipment are quickdraws to clip the rope into the bolts without generating friction.<ref name=CM4/> On complex sport climbing routes that don't follow a straight line, the alignment and lengths of quickdraws used are important considerations to avoid rope drag.<ref name=CM4>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-lead-climb/ | first=Stephen | last=Potter | date=23 August 2022 | accessdate=2 March 2023 | title=A Beginner's Guide to Lead Climbing in Sport Climbing}}</ref>
===Bolts===
The pre-drilled bolts will degrade over time—particularly in coastal areas due to salt—and eventually, all sport climbs need to be re-fitted after several years.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/built-to-last/ | title=Built to Last? The Hidden Dangers Of Climbing Bolts | first=Jeff | last=Achey | date=23 December 2014 | accessdate=2 March 2023}}</ref> The highest quality titanium bolts are too expensive to use regularly, and the next highest quality stainless steel bolts have an expected lifespan of circa 20–25 years (the cheaper plated stainless steel bolts have a shorter span); and in 2015, the American Alpine Club established an "anchor replacement fund" to help replace the bolts on America's estimated 60,000 sport-climbing routes, however ageing bolts remain a problem in sport-climbing.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Outside | url=https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/what-happens-when-climbing-bolts-go-bad/ | title=What Happens When Climbing Bolts Go Bad? | first=Shelby |last=Carpenter | date=4 November 2015 | accessdate=2 March 2023}}</ref>
==Grading==
===Dominant systems===
thumb|upright=0.8|{{ill|Ainhize Belar|eu}} leading on ''Gezurren Erresuma'' (grade 8c, 5.14b, XI-), in Spain. As sport climbing removes the danger of a route by using bolts, sport routes are graded solely for their technical difficulty (i.e. how hard are the physical movements to ascend the route), and unlike traditional climbing routes, do not require an additional grade to reflect risk.<ref name=Rockfax/><ref name=AAJ/> The dominant systems for grading sport-climbing routes are the French system (e.g. ... 6b, 6c, 7a, 7b, 7c, ...), which is also called French sport-grading, and the American system (e.g. ... 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c, 5.10d, 5.11a, ...).<ref name=Rockfax/><ref name=AAJ/> The UIAA system (e.g. ... VII, VIII, IX, X, ...) is popular in Germany and central Europe.<ref name=Rockfax/> The Australian Ewbank system (e.g. ... , 23, 24, 25, 26, ...) is also used.<ref name=Rockfax>{{cite web | website=Rockfax Publishing | url=https://rockfax.com/climbing-guides/grades/ | title=Grade Conversions: Alpine Grading System | accessdate=4 May 2023}}</ref><ref name=AAJ>{{cite journal | journal=American Alpine Journal | date=2013 | title=International Grade Comparison Chart | accessdate=1 May 2023 | url= https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212386/International-Grade-Comparison-Chart}}</ref><ref name=CAI>{{cite book | first1=Gabriele |last1=Mandelli |first2=A |last2=Angriman | date=2016 | title=Scales of Difficulty in Mountaineering | publisher=Central School of Mountaineering, Italy |s2cid=53358088 }}</ref>
===Integration with boulder grades===
Even though the grading of sport-routes is simpler than traditional-routes, there is the issue of how to compare a short route with one very hard move, with a longer route with a sustained sequence of slightly easier moves. Most of the above grading systems are based on the "overall" difficulty of the route, and thus both routes could have the same sport grade.<ref name=Rockfax/><ref name=GR11>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | title=Understanding Rock Climbing Grades | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/lets-talk-about-grades/ | first=Bonnie | last=Bruijn | date=23 March 2023 | accessdate=2 July 2023}}</ref> As a result of this, it has become common for the advanced sport-routes (e.g. ''Realization'', ''La Dura Dura'', and ''La Rambla'') to describe the hardest moves by their bouldering grade, via the French "Font" system (e.g. ..., 7B, 7C, 8A, 8B, ...) or the American "V-scale" system (e.g. ..., V9, V10, V11, V12, ...).<ref name=GR11/> French sport-grades can be confused with French "Font" boulder grades—the only difference being 'capitalization'.<ref name=GR11/>
As an example of how sport and boulder grades are used on sport climbing routes, this is Adam Ondra describing his 2017 redpoint of ''Silence'', the first-ever sport climb with a sport-grade of 9c (French), which is the same as 5.15d (American) or XII+ (UIAA):
{{blockquote|The climb is about 45m long, the first 20m are about 8b [French sport] climbing with a couple of really really good knee-bars. Then comes the crux boulder problem, 10 moves of 8C [French boulder]. And when I say 8C boulder problem, I really mean it. ... I reckon just linking 8C [French boulder] into 8B [French boulder] into 7C [French boulder] is a 9b+ [French] sport climb, I'm pretty sure about that.|author=Adam Ondra in an interview with ''PlanetMountain'' (2017).<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | date=26 June 2017 | accessdate=2 July 2023 | first=Nicholas |last=Hobley | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-climbing-towards-the-worlds-first-9c.html | title=Adam Ondra climbing towards the world's first 9c}}</ref>}}
==Notable climbs and climbers== {{main|List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by Men|List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by Women}}
{{Multiple image|perrow=3|total_width=440 | image1 = Bild auf dem Gedenkstein fuer Guellich (retuschiert).jpg | image2 = Chris Sharma - 1.jpg | image3 = Adam Ondra by PAVEL BLAZEK 2.jpg | footer = Some of the strongest-ever male sport climbers in history: Wolfgang Güllich (1980s), Chris Sharma (2000s), and Adam Ondra (2010s)<ref name=NG/> }}
Since the development of sport climbing in the early 1980s, all of the subsequent grade milestones (i.e. the next levels of hardest technical difficulty) in rock climbing have been set by sport climbers. German climber Wolfgang Güllich raised sport climbing grades from {{climbing grade|8b}} in 1984 with ''Kanal im Rücken'' to {{climbing grade|9a}} in 1991 with ''Action Directe''.<ref name=PMEVOL>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain.com | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/the-evolution-of-free-climbing.html | title=The evolution of free climbing | date=23 December 2012 | first=Maurizio | last=Oviglia | access-date=4 January 2022}}</ref> American climber Chris Sharma dominated sport climbing development in the decade after his ground-breaking ascent of ''Realization/Biographie'' at {{climbing grade|9a+}} in 2001 and ''Jumbo Love'' at {{climbing grade |9b}} in 2008.<ref name=PMEVOL/> Czech climber Adam Ondra took the mantle of the world's strongest sport climber from Sharma by freeing ''{{ill|Change (climb)|lt=Change|fr|Change (escalade)}}'' in 2012 and ''La Dura Dura'' in 2013, both at {{climbing grade|9b+}}.<ref name=NG>{{cite magazine | url=https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/adam-ondra | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210723145125/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/adam-ondra | url-status=dead | archive-date=23 July 2021 | date=13 November 2013 | accessdate=21 June 2022 | magazine=National Geographic | title=Adventurers of the Year: Climber Adam Ondra | first=Fitz | last=Cahall}}</ref> In 2017, Ondra freed ''Silence'', the first-ever sport climb at {{climbing grade |9c}}.
{{Multiple image|perrow=3|total_width=440 | image1 = Lynn hill 2006 cropped.jpg | image2 = Josune Bereziartu 2012.jpg | image3 = Angela Eiter - Tag des Sports 2013 Wien 1.jpg | footer = Some of the strongest-ever female sport climbers in history: Lynn Hill (1980s), Josune Bereziartu (2000s), and Angela Eiter (2010s) }}
Female sport climbing was dominated in the 1980s by American climber Lynn Hill and French climber Catherine Destivelle who set new female grade milestones and also competed against each other in the first climbing competitions.<ref name=PMEVOL/> Spanish climber Josune Bereziartu dominated the setting of new grade milestones in female sport climbing in the late 1990s and early 2000s; her 2005 redpoint of ''Bimbaluna'' at {{climbing grade|9a/9a+}} was only a half-notch behind the highest male sport climbing route at the time, which was ''Realization/Biographie'' at 9a+.<ref name=PMEVOL/> By 2017, Austrian climber Angela Eiter had broken into the {{climbing grade|9b}} grade with ''La Planta de Shiva'', and in 2020 made the first female free ascent of a {{climbing grade|9b}} with ''Madame Ching''. In 2020–21, Laura Rogora and Julia Chanourdie also climbed {{climbing grade|9b}} sport routes. Brooke Raboutou climbed Excalibur {{climbing grade|9b+}} in Arco, Italy in 2025. Only a handful of male climbers have climbed at {{climbing grade|9b+}}, and only Adam Ondra at {{climbing grade|9c}}.
Some of the strongest-ever sport climbers were also some of the strongest-ever competition climbers, such as Adam Ondra, Lynn Hill, and Angela Eiter. However, some of the other strongest-ever sport climbers either largely ignored competition climbing, or retired early from it to focus on non-competition sport climbing, such as Wolfgang Gullich,<ref name=BethWald>{{cite book | title=Vantage Point: 50 Years of the Best Climbing Stories Ever Told | pages=76–84 | isbn=978-1493034772 | publisher=Falcon Guides | first=Beth | last=Wald | date=November 2018 | chapter=Interview with Wolfgang Gullich (June 1987) | chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=JlpgDwAAQBAJ&dq=%22wolfgang+gullich%22+%22biographie%22&pg=PA76 | accessdate=22 June 2022}}</ref> Chris Sharma,<ref name=CL30>{{cite book | publisher=Falcon Guides Publishing | date=November 2018 | accessdate=18 June 2022 | first=Jeff | last=Achey | page=202 | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/half-life/ | title=Vantage Point: 50 Years of the Best Climbing Stories Ever Told | isbn=978-1493034772 | chapter=Half Life: Chris Sharma Interview (February 2011, Issue 292)}}</ref> and Josune Bereziartu.<ref name=Noia>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain.com | title=Josune Bereziartu, interview after Noia 8c+ at Andonno | date=31 October 2001 | accessdate=20 January 2022 | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/josune-bereziartu-interview-after-noia-8c-at-andonno.html}}</ref>
==In film== *''Statement of Youth'', a 2019 documentary film about the birth of sport climbing in Britain in the 1980s featuring Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | date=27 May 2020 | first=Cameron | last=Burns | accessdate=2 October 2023 | url=https://www.climbing.com/gear/13-great-climbing-films-you-might-not-be-familiar-with-and-5-of-the-worst/ | title=13 Great Climbing Films You Might Not Be Familiar With | quote=Statement of Youth: The Birth of British Sport Climbing}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | title=The Birth of British Sport Climbing in Statement of Youth | date=May 2019 | accessdate=2 October 2023 | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/the-birth-of-british-sport-climbing-in-statement-of-youth.html}}</ref> *''Reel Rock 7'', the 2012 edition of the Reel Rock series with Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra's famous collaboration on ''La Dura Dura'' {{climbing grade|9b+}}.<ref name=OutsideFilm>{{cite web | magazine=Outside | url=https://www.outsideonline.com/culture/books-media/best-climbing-mountaineering-films-of-all-time/?scope=anon | title=The 20 Best Climbing Films of All Time | first=Andrew | last=Bisharat | date=6 September 2022 | accessdate=28 September 2023}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=UKClimbing | url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/04/lockdown_-_free_sport_climbing_films_to_get_you_through_isolation-72269?fbclid=IwAR00QjDz5Io6cQR9JXSLZNHvdnolRUNkEOd3WfV7Mx3AdIUM7Sy2t_Fc3SY | title=Lockdown – Sport Climbing films to get you through isolation | date=8 April 2020 | accessdate=2 October 2023 | first=Nick | last=Brown}}</ref> *''Dosage Volume I'', the 2002 edition of Dosage Series with Chris Sharma's historic first free ascent of ''Realization/Biographie'' {{climbing grade|9a+}}.<ref name=OutsideFilm/>
==See also== {{Commons category|Sport climbing}} *Aid climbing *Free solo climbing *Traditional climbing
== References == {{Reflist}}
=== Further reading === *{{cite book | title=How to Rock Climb | isbn=978-1493056262 | edition=6th | pages=291–310 | chapter=Chapter 11: Sport Climbing | first1=John | last1=Long | first2=Bob | last2=Gaines | author-link=John Long (climber) | publisher=Falcon Guides | date=August 2022}} * {{cite book|title=Sport Climbing Basics: Single and Multi-Pitch Bolted Routes | isbn=978-1796923278 | date=June 2019 | first=Neil | last=Chelton | publisher=VDiffClimbing}} * {{cite book | title=Climbing: From Toproping to Sport Climbing | first1=Nate |last1=Fitch | first2=Ron | last2=Funderburke | isbn=978-1493016396 | publisher=Falcon Guides | edition=illustrated | date=July 2016}} * {{cite book|title=SPORT CLIMBING: Techniques for climbing bolted routes|first=Pete | last=Hill |date=2010| publisher=Cicerone Press | isbn=9781852845285 | edition=2nd}} * {{cite book|title=Sport Climbing: From Toprope to Redpoint|first=Andrew | last=Bisharat|date=6 October 2009| publisher=Mountaineers Books | isbn=978-1594852701}}
== External links == {{Wiktionary}} *[https://www.99boulders.com/sport-climbing Sport Climbing 101: The Complete Beginner’s Guide], ''99boulders'' (2021) *[https://hardclimbs.info/hardest-sport-climbs/ The Hardest Sport Climbs in the World], ''HardClimbs'' (2023) *[https://www.climbing.com/places/americas-100-best-sport-climbing-routes/ America’s 100 Best Sport Climbing Routes], ''Climbing'' (2023) *[https://gripped.com/video/watch-adam-ondra-make-history-and-flash-5-15/ Watch Adam Ondra Make History and Flash 5.15 sport climb], ''Gripped Magazine'' (July 2021) *[https://gripped.com/gear/outdoor/may-15-is-5-15-day-almost-impossible/ An exploration of the world's most impossible sport climbs and the new standards that they set], ''Gripped Magazine'' (May 2020)
{{Climbing navbox}} {{Climbing Competitions}} {{Authority control}}
Category:Types of climbing Category:Sport climbing Category:Individual sports Category:Sports originating in France