Crack climbing

{{Short description|Type of rock climbing route}} {{Multiple image|perrow=2|total_width=370 | header=Examples of crack climbing | image1=Klettern im Steinbruch Rochlitz.jpg|caption1=Hand jamming | image2=Piazen.jpg|caption2=Laybacking | image3=Indian Creek Supercrack.jpg|caption3=Arm jamming | image4=Pou Anaiak Totem Pole - panoramio - degar.jpg|caption4=Finger jamming }} In rock climbing, a '''crack climb''' is a type of climbing route that follows a crack or fissure, or system of cracks or fissures, which the climber uses to ascend the route. The width of the crack dictates the techniques needed, and crack-climbs are further differentiated by the body parts that can be 'jammed' into them, such as finger cracks (the narrowest), hand/fist cracks, arm cracks, and body (also called chimney) cracks. '''Off-width''' cracks are some of the most awkward, being too wide for the hands or fists, but too narrow to accommodate the body. A top-to-bottom uniform-width crack is known as a '''splitter crack'''.<ref name=HTRC5>{{cite book | title=How to Rock Climb | isbn=978-1493056262 | edition=6th | first1=John | last1=Long | first2=Bob | last2=Gaines | author-link=John Long (climber) | publisher=Falcon Guides | date=August 2022|pages=85-121 | chapter=Chapter 5. Crack Climbing}}</ref><ref name=PW>{{cite book | title=Crack Climbing | isbn=978-1493056262 | edition= | first1=Pete| last1=Whittaker| author-link= Pete Whittaker | publisher=Vertebrate Publishing | date=January 2020}}</ref>

Crack climbing routes require a broad range of techniques, but most importantly emphasize the techniques of 'laybacking' and of 'jamming'. Laybacking requires the crack to be off-set (i.e. one side protrudes) or in a corner, to create the opposing forces needed for the technique.<ref name=HTRC5/> 'Jamming' is where the climber physically "jams" a body-part(s) into the crack which they then pull on to gain upward momentum.<ref name=HTRC5/> The type of rock has an important effect on the effectiveness of 'jamming', with the high-friction surface of granite being particularly suited to the technique.<ref name=HTRC5/> The friction needed for 'jamming' can wear the climber's skin, requiring medical tape or specialist gloves for long crack routes.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/pete-whittaker-five-tips-crack-climbing/ | title=Pete Whittaker's Five Ultimate Rules for Crack Climbing | first=Pete | last=Whittaker| author-link=Pete Whittaker | date=12 October 2021 | accessdate=8 October 2024}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-crack-climb/ | title=How to Crack Climb | first=Ken | last=Pease | date=5 August 2022 | accessdate=8 October 2024}}</ref>

Crack climbs are particularly suited to traditional climbing as the crack can accommodate the protection (e.g. ''Separate Reality'').<ref name=PW/> The invention of spring-loaded camming devices in the 1970s revolutionised the difficulty of cracks that could be attempted by traditional climbers,<ref name=PW/> and led to new grade milestones set on crack-routes such as ''The Phoenix'' in 1977, the world's first-ever {{climbing grade|7c+}}, and ''Grand Illusion'' in 1979, the world's first-ever {{climbing grade|8a}}.<ref name=GRMile>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine (Canada) | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/10-climbing-grade-milestones-since-1961/ | title=10 Climbing Grade Milestones Since 1961 | date=2 February 2024 | accessdate=9 October 2024 | first=Aaron | last=Pardy}}</ref><ref name=PMMile>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain.com | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/the-evolution-of-free-climbing.html | title=The evolution of free climbing | date=23 December 2012 | first=Maurizio | last=Oviglia | access-date=9 October 2024}}</ref> While the advent of bolted sport climbing routes in the 1980s diverted focus to the blanker face climbs, crack-climbs continued to feature prominently in the development of multi-pitch and big wall climbs, and most notably on the giant granite cracks on El Capitan and its famous routes such as ''The Nose''.<ref name=SC>{{cite book |title=Sport Climbing: From Toprope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success |first=Andrew |last=Bisharat |date=6 October 2009 |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=MI8TCgAAQBAJ&q=climbing+deadpoint+dyno&pg=PT73 |publisher=Mountaineers Books |isbn=978-1594852701 |accessdate=8 October 2024 |chapter=Chapter 1: Ethics, Style, and Emergence of Sport Climbing }}</ref>

The early 2000s saw a resurgence in traditional climbing, placing crack-climbing back in focus. Swiss climber Didier Berthod 'greenpointed' the bolted crack line of ''Greenspit'' at {{climbing grade|8b+}},<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/watch-didier-berthod-is-back-interview-with-swiss-crack-climbing-legend.html | date=19 May 2021 | accessdate=9 October 2024 | title=Watch Didier Berthod is Back / Interview with Swiss crack climbing legend}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | date=May 2019 | accessdate=9 October 2024 | title=Greenspit, the dream of a generation climbed in Valle Orco by Matteo della Bordella, Francesco Deiana | url= https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/greenspit-dream-generation-climbed-valle-orco-matteo-della-bordella-francesco-deiana.html}}</ref> as did Canadian Sonnie Trotter on ''The Path'',<ref name=ALP>{{cite web |last=Lambert |first=Erik|date=31 August 2007 |title=Trotter Chops Bolts, Sends Marathon Crack Project|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/newswire-trotter-path-bolt-chop |access-date=8 February 2023|magazine=Alpinist}}</ref> and Austrian {{ill|Beat Kammerlander|de}} on ''Prinzip Hoffnung''.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Desnivel | url=https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/prinzip-hoffnung-de-locura-de-beat-kammerlander-a-nueva-clasica/ | title=Prinzip Hoffnung, from Beat Kammerlander madness to new crack climbing classic | date=10 March 2014 | accessdate=9 October 2024 | language=es| trans-title=es}}</ref> In 2006, new traditional-grade milestones were set on crack-climbs by Trotter on ''Cobra Crack'' at {{climbing grade|8c}},<ref name=ALP/> and by Scottish climber Dave MacLeod on ''Rhapsody'' at {{climbing grade|8c+}}.<ref name=ALP/> In 2008, American climber Beth Rodden freed the Yosemite crack-line of ''Meltdown'' at {{climbing grade|8c+}}, becoming the first-ever women to climb a traditional route at that grade, which at the time was also the highest traditional grade climbed anywhere.<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-repeats-beth-rodden-meltdown-in-yosemite.html | date=26 November 2022 | accessdate=8 October 2024 | title=Jacopo Larcher repeats Beth Rodden's Meltdown in Yosemite}}</ref> In 2011, British crack specialists, Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall, climbed the world's hardest off-width crack, ''Century Crack'' at {{climbing grade|8b}}.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine (Canada) | url=https://gripped.com/news/rare-repeat-of-worlds-hardest-offwidth-crack/ | title=Rare Repeat of World’s Hardest Offwidth Crack | first=Aaron | last=Pardy | date=6 November 2023 | accessdate=8 October 2024}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/videos/wide-boyz-on-century-crack-5-14b-worlds-hardest-offwidth/ | title=Wide Boyz on Century Crack (5.14b), World's Hardest Offwidth | author=((The Editors)) | date=11 November 2011 | accessdate=8 October 2024}}</ref> In 2021, the same duo climbed the world's longest roof climb, a {{Convert|762|m|ft|adj=on}} cement crack under the M5 in Devon, ''The Great Rift'' at {{climbing grade|5.13}}.<ref>{{cite web | website=Guinness World Records | url=https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/691477-longest-roof-climb | title=Longest Roof Climb | date=2024 | accessdate=8 October 2024 | quote=The longest continuous roof (horizontal) climb in the world is "The Great Rift", a 762-m-long crack-climb that has been graded as a 5.13. The route, which runs along the underside of an elevated section of the M5 motorway in Devon, was discovered and completed for the first time in November 2021 by British climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/wide-boyz-climb-the-great-rift-2500-foot-5-13-bridge-crack/ | title=Wide Boyz Tackle The Great Rift (5.13) Roof Crack Under 2,500-foot Cement Bridge | first=Owen | last=Clarke| date=8 December 2021 | accessdate=8 October 2024}}</ref>

==References== {{reflist}}

===Further reading=== *{{cite book | title=How to Rock Climb | isbn=978-1493056262 | edition=6th | first1=John | last1=Long | first2=Bob | last2=Gaines | author-link=John Long (climber) | publisher=Falcon Guides | date=August 2022}} *{{cite book | title=Crack Climbing | isbn=978-1493056262 | edition= | first1=Pete| last1=Whittaker| author-link= Pete Whittaker | publisher=Vertebrate Publishing | date=January 2020}} *{{cite book | date=2018 | title=Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills | edition=9th | isbn=978-1846892622 | publisher=Quiller Publishing | author=The Mountaineers}} *{{cite book | title=Advanced Rock Climbing: Expert Skills and Techniques | first1=Topher | last1=Donahue | isbn=978-1-59485-862-8 | date=December 2016 | publisher=The Mountaineers}}

==External links== {{commons category}} *[https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/crack-climbing.html Getting Started Crack Climbing], REI (2024) *[https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/crack-climbing/ Crack Climbing Technique], ''VDiff Climbing'' (2024)

Category:Types of climbing *