{{short description|Scottish rock climber}} {{EngvarB|date=August 2014}} {{Use dmy dates|date=July 2024}} {{Infobox climber | image = davemacleod.jpg | image_size = | caption = | name = Dave MacLeod | nationality = Scottish | birth_date = {{birth date and age|df=yes|1978|07|17}} | birth_place = | death_date = | death_place = | residence = | education = BSc in Physiology & Sports Science (Glasgow University), MSc in Medicine and Science in Sport & Exercise (Glasgow University), MSc in Human Nutrition (Glasgow University) | occupation = | height = | weight = | typeofclimber = {{flatlist| * Traditional climbing * Free solo climbing * Bouldering * Mixed climbing }} | highestgrade = | highestredpoint = <br>E11 7a, {{climbing grade|8c+}} traditional<br>{{Climbing grade|9a}} sport | highestonsight = | highestfreesolo = {{Climbing grade|8b+}} | highestboulder = {{Boulder grade|8C}} | knownfor = {{flatlist| * First-ever person to free an {{climbing grade|8c+}} graded traditional climbing route * Second-ever person to free solo at {{Climbing grade|8b+}} }} | firstascents = {{ubl|''Rhapsody'' (2006, E11 7a, {{climbing grade|8c+}})|''Echo Wall'' (2008, E11 7a)}} | namedroutes = | majorascents = | website = {{URL|www.davemacleod.com}} | retired = | updated = 6 November 2017 }} '''Dave MacLeod''' (born 17 July 1978) is a Scottish rock climber, ice climber, mixed climber, and climbing author. MacLeod is known for being the second-ever person in history to free solo an {{Climbing grade|8b+}} graded rock climbing route, which he did with his 2008 ascent of ''Darwin Dixit'' in Margalef,<ref name=DarwinDixit1 /><ref name=DarwinDixit2 /> and for being the first-ever person in history to free an E11 / {{climbing grade|8c+}} graded traditional climbing route with his 2006 acsent of ''Rhapsody'' on Dumbarton Rock.<ref name=Rhapsody1 /><ref name=Rhapsody2 />
== Climbing career==
===Rock climbing === [[File:Dumbarton Rock North West Face 02.jpg|thumb|North West face of Dumbarton Rock. ''Rhapsody'' and ''Requiem'' follow the line of the thin and tallest crack in the centre of the face. ''Rhapsody'' holds the line of the crack all the way to the top, while ''Requiem'' veers right.]] In April 2006, MacLeod established the climb ''Rhapsody'' on Dumbarton Rock which, at a grade of E11 7a, was the hardest traditional climbing route in the world at the time.<ref name=Rhapsody1>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=198|title=Dave MacLeod, The Modern Traditionalist – E11|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Mick Ryan|date=April 2006|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref><ref name=Rhapsody2>{{Cite web|url=http://www.scotsman.com/news/natural-highs-1-1304187|title=Natural Highs|publisher=scotsman.com|date=19 February 2009|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref> The ascent of ''Rhapsody'' is the subject of the movie ''E11'' (2006) directed by Paul Diffley and produced by Hot Aches Productions.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=251|title=E11 – The Movie|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Mick Ryan|date=October 2006|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref>
In 2008, MacLeod became the second-ever person free solo an {{Climbing grade|8b+}} graded route (''Darwin Dixit'' in Margalef).<ref name=DarwinDixit1>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=868|title=Dave Macleod – 8b+ Solo – Interview|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Jack Geldard|date=March 2008|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref><ref name=DarwinDixit2>{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/news/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=36096|title=Dave Macleod 8c solo at Margalef, Don't Die of Ignorance XI,11 first ascent on Ben Nevis|publisher=planetmountain.com|date=21 March 2008|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref>
In 2008, MacLeod made the first free ascent of another traditional climbing route he called ''Echo Wall'', on Ben Nevis, which took two years of preparation.<ref>{{cite web |url = http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/newswire-echo-wall-macleod |title=MacLeod's Boldest: Echo Wall |publisher=Alpinist.com| accessdate = 22 February 2006}}</ref> MacLeod left the route ungraded but in 2024, suggested a grade of E10 7a for the route.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-48S7gLP_I?t=1254|title=How I grade the hardest trad routes}}</ref> In 2024, James Pearson made the first repeat of ''Echo Wall'' calling it "hard E11".<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Climber| url=https://www.climber.co.uk/news/james-pearson-talks-in-depth-about-the-second-ascent-of-echo-wall/ | title=James Pearson talks in depth about the second ascent of Echo Wall | date=4 August 2024 | accessdate=16 May 2026}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=UKClimbing | title=James Pearson shares thoughts on Echo Wall, suggests 'hard E11' | date=26 August 2024 | accessdate=16 May 2026 | first=Nathalie | last=Berry | url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/08/james_pearson_shares_thoughts_on_echo_wall_suggests_hard_e11-73773}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/news/james-pearson-climbs-bold-trad-echo-wall/ | title=James Pearson Climbs Bold Trad Echo Wall | date=7 August 2024 | accessdate=16 May 2026}}</ref>
In addition to his achievements in traditional rock climbing, MacLeod has also created new sport climbing routes and completed projects up to the grade of {{Climbing grade|9a}} (''A Muerte'' at Siurana, in 2007),<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=41388|title=Dave MacLeod – A Muerte F9a|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Mick Ryan|date=November 2007|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref> and has established bouldering problems up to the grade of {{Boulder grade|8B+}} (''Natural Method'' on the Skeleton Boulder at Glen Nevis in 2012).<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2012/05/dave_macleod_the_natural_method-67136|title=Dave MacLeod, The Natural Method|publisher=ukclimbing.com|date=May 2012|accessdate=29 March 2018}}</ref>
On 28 August 2010, MacLeod and Tim Emmett established the route ''The Usual Suspects'' on Sron Uladail on Harris, provisionally graded E9 7a, in an ascent broadcast live on BBC Two Scotland.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=57562|title=MacLeod and Emmett's Great Climb on BBC iPlayer|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Mick Ryan|date=August 2010|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref> As part of their preparation, MacLeod and Emmett successfully established five new routes on five Hebridean islands (counting Lewis with Harris as two separate islands) in five days, an achievement documented in the BBC Scotland series ''5 Climbs, 5 Islands'' (later released on DVD as ''Triple 5'').<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00vpg71|title=5 Climbs, 5 Islands|publisher=bbc.co.uk|access-date=24 May 2013}}</ref> MacLeod has continued his association with BBC Scotland, filming ''The First Great Climb'' (broadcast on 22 November 2011), in which he replicated a successful 1876 attempt on the Stack of Handa using the type of equipment that would have been available at the time, and ''Climbing – No Limits!'' (broadcast on 12 April 2012), establishing new routes in the Yorkshire Dales and the Peak District.
===Mixed climbing===
MacLeod has also established hard routes in mixed climbing with ice axes and crampons, climbing ''Good Training for Something'' with Canadian climber Will Gadd at a grade of M12. In 2005, he established the hardest traditional mixed climbing route in the world at the time, ''The Hurting'' in Coire an t-Sneachda, Cairngorms.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?l=2&keyid=34756|title=MacLeod climbs Scottish XI 11|publisher=planetmountain.com|date=9 March 2005|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref> The route has been repeated a few times<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=60093|title=Andy Turner on The Hurting|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Jack Geldard|date=February 2011|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=60515|title=Greg Boswell Repeats The Hurting XI,11|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Jack Geldard|date=February 2011|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39133|title=Dani Arnold repeats The Hurting in Scotland|publisher=planetmountain.com|date=8 February 2012|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref> and has a Scottish winter grade of XI,11 (M9+/M10)<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.climbing.com/news/trad-m10-in-scotland/|title=Trad M10 in Scotland|publisher=climbing.com|author=Dougald MacDonald|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref> with hard, technical climbing over very poor protection.
===Writing===
In December 2009, Macleod's book ''9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes: Navigation Through the Maze of Advice for the Self-coached Climber'' was published. In 2015, Macleod's book ''Make or Break: Don't Let Climbing Injuries Dictate Your Success'' was published. In November 2024, Macleod's book ''Moving the Needle: How an Average Climber Can Do the Hardest Route in the World'' was published. MacLeod has written widely on nutrition, and eats beef and eggs daily in the belief that animal products are essential for good mental health.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.instagram.com/climbermacleod/p/DFXlNhio6YQ/?hl=en|title= Instgram post|accessdate=29 January 2025 }}</ref>
== Bibliography == *{{cite book |last= MacLeod |first= Dave |title= 9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes |year= 2009 |publisher= Rare Breed Productions |isbn= 978-0956428103 |title-link= }} *{{cite book |last= MacLeod |first= Dave |title= Make or Break: Don't Let Climbing Injuries Dictate Your Success |year= 2015 |publisher= Rare Breed Productions |isbn= 978-0956428134 |title-link= }} *{{cite book |last= MacLeod |first= Dave |title= Moving the Needle: How an Average Climber Can Do the Hardest Route in the World |year= 2024 |publisher= Rare Breed Productions |isbn= 978-0956428158 |title-link= }}
== See also == *History of rock climbing *List of grade milestones in rock climbing *Johnny Dawes, British traditional climber *Sonnie Trotter, Canadian traditional climber
==References== {{reflist}}
==External links== * [http://www.davemacleod.com Dave MacLeod] MacLeod's official website * [http://davemacleod.blogspot.com Blog] MacLeod's official blog * [http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com Online Climbing Coach Blog] MacLeod's coaching blog * [http://hotaches.com/climbing-films/e11/ ''E11'' – the movie] * [http://www.climbing.com/climber/dumby-dave/ Profile on climbing.com] * [http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/climbersskiers/global/detail/username/davemacleod Profile on blackdiamondequipment.com]{{Dead link|date=August 2025 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}
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{{DEFAULTSORT:Macleod, Dave}} Category:1978 births Category:Living people Category:Sportspeople from Dumbarton Category:Scottish rock climbers Category:Scottish mountain climbers Category:Free soloists Category:Ice climbers Category:Trad climbers Category:Climbing and mountaineering writers