{{short description|British adventure climber}} {{Use dmy dates|date=April 2022}} '''Tim Emmett''' (born 1974),<ref name=BMC/> is a British-born adventure climber and climbing author. Considered one of the best all-round climbers, his disciplinary styles have set the tone for new forms of modern climbing. Those include ice-climbing, rock climbing, deep-water soloing (of which he is considered a pioneer) and alpine climbing. Emmett has established the hardest waterfall ice-climbs in the world, and was the first to climb grades of W10 and above.<ref name=BMC>{{cite web | website=British Mountaineering Council | url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/tim-emmett-interview-adventure-as-dad-at-42 | title=Tim Emmett: life as an adventurous 42-year-old dad | first=Sarah | last=Sterling | access-date=21 December 2021}}</ref>
== Early life == Tim Emmett was born in Windsor in England, and went to school at [https://www.cothill.net Cothill House] and Richard Huish College, where he got his A-levels in Biology, Chemistry and Mathematics.<ref>{{cite news | url=https://www.somersetcountygazette.co.uk/news/9974350.tv-extreme-sport-star-tim-emmett-perform-brewhouse/ | title=TV extreme sport star Tim Emmett to perform at The Brewhouse | date=9 October 2012 | access-date=21 December 2021 | newspaper=Somerset County Gazette}}</ref> While at Huish, Emmett started climbing on a school trip at the age of 15 to a local crag called Chudleigh Rocks.<ref name=GR/> In 1993, he went on to study Marine Zoology at Bangor University, North Wales, where he became a prominent climber, featuring on the magazine cover of ''On The Edge'' while still at university.<ref name=GR>{{cite web | website=Gripped.com | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/mountain-hardwear-and-tim-emmetts-smart-decisions-on-everest/ | date=8 October 2019 | access-date=21 December 2021 | title=Mountain Hardwear and Tim Emmett's Smart Decisions on Everest}}</ref>
==Career==
===Deep-water soloing=== Emmett is regarded as a pioneer of deep-water soloing (DWS),<ref name=A1>{{cite web | website=Gripped.com | url=https://gripped.com/video/watch-the-best-deep-water-soloing-film-of-2020/ | title=Watch the Best Deep Water Soloing Film of 2020 | date=5 December 2020 | access-date=21 December 2021}}</ref> and in 2003, a short film on DWS called ''Psicobloc'' by American brothers Josh and Brett Lowell chronicled Emmett and Klem Loskot's 2001 development of DWS routes in Cova Del Diablo in Mallorca, Spain, which inspired US rock climber Chris Sharma to get involved in DWS.<ref name=A2>{{cite web | website=British Mountaineering Council | url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/a_history_of_mallorca_deep_water_soloing-3539 | date=8 March 2011 | access-date=21 December 2021 | title=A History of Mallorca Deep Water Soloing}}</ref> In 2019, adventure filmmaker Jon Glassberg, created another DWS short film called ''Deep Water'' featured on Emmett and US rock-climber Kyra Condie developing DWS routes in Ha Long Bay in Vietnam.<ref name=A3>{{cite magazine | url=https://www.climbing.com/videos/deep-water-psicobloc-in-vietnam-with-kyra-condie-and-tim-emmett/ | title=Deep Water: Psicobloc in Vietnam with Kyra Condie and Tim Emmett | date=14 August 2020 | access-date=21 December 2021 | magazine=Outside}}</ref>
===Ice climbing===
Emmett's notable ice-climbs include the first ever waterfall ice climb at grade W10 (''Spray On'', in 2010 with Will Gadd, at Helmcken Falls), at grade W11 (''Wolverine'', in 2011 with Klemen Premrl, at Helmcken Falls), at grade W12 (''Interstellar Spice'', in 2016 with Klemen Premrl, at Helmcken Falls), and at grade W13 (''Misson to Mars'', in 2020 with Klemen Premrl, at Helmcken Falls).<ref name=RI>{{cite magazine | url=https://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/mission-to-mars-is-tim-emmett-and-klem-premrls-new-wi-13-what-at-helmcken-falls/ | magazine=Rock&Ice | title="Mission to Mars" Is Tim Emmett and Klem Premrl's New WI 13 (What?!) at Helmcken Falls | first=Michael | last=Levy | date=19 February 2020 | access-date=21 December 2021}}</ref><ref name=RB>{{cite magazine | url=https://www.redbull.com/int-en/hardest-climbs-in-the-world#5-interstellar-spice-(ice-climbing) | magazine=RedBull | title=These are the 10 hardest climbs in the world | first=Will| last=Gray| date=9 December 2021 | access-date=21 December 2021}}</ref> From 2002 to 2007, Emmett made the podium 4 times in tour events of the World Ice Climbing Championships.<ref name=OUT>{{cite magazine | magazine=Outside | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/20-questions-with-tim-emmett/ | title=20 Questions with Tim Emmett | first=Luke | last=Laeser | date=1 November 2007 | access-date=21 December 2021}}</ref> In 2015, Emmett was the Red Bull "White Cliffs Champion".<ref>{{cite web | website=RedBull.com | url=https://www.redbull.com/gb-en/red-bull-white-cliffs-2015-the-results#:~:text=UK%2Dborn%20climber%20Tim%20Emmett,in%20the%20quickest%2Dpossible%20time. | date=5 December 2015 | access-date=21 December 2021 | title=Red Bull White Cliffs 2015: The Results}}</ref>
===Rock climbing===
Emmett's rock climbs include some of the highest-grade traditional routes with notable ascents including the 2017 repeat of Sonnie Trotter's ''Superman'' in Squamish (5.14c, F8c+),<ref>{{cite web | website=Gripped.com | url=https://gripped.com/news/tim-emmett-sends-superman-5-14c-west-coast/ | date=25 May 2017 | access-date=21 December 2021 | title=Tim Emmett Sends Superman 5.14c on West Coast}}</ref> and the 2016 repeat of Trotter's ''The Path'' in Lake Louise (5.14R, F8b+).<ref>{{cite web | website=Gripped.com | url=https://gripped.com/news/tim-emmett-and-read-macadam-send-the-path-5-14r-in-rockies/ | title=Tim Emmett and Read Macadam Send The Path 5.14R in Rockies | date=21 July 2016 | access-date=21 December 2021}}</ref> In 2010, Emmett established ''Muy Caliente!'', an early contender for the first traditional grade of E10 in Pembroke in Wales.<ref>{{cite magazine | url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/06/tim_emmett_-_pembroke_e10_-_full_story-55339 | first=Simon | last=Wilson | date=10 June 2010 | access-date=21 December 2021 | title=Tim Emmett - Pembroke E10 - Full Story (Video) | website=UKClimbing.com}}</ref>
===Alpine climbing===
For high altitude alpine climbing, Emmett was nominated for a 2006 Piolet D'or for climbing a new route on the south east pillar of Kedar Dome {{Convert|6831|m|ft|0}} in the Garhwal Himalaya with Ian Parnell 2006.<ref>{{cite magazine | magazine=Alpinist | url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP17/newswire-kedar-dome-emmett-parnell | first=Lindsay | last=Griffin | date=7 November 2006 | access-date=21 December 2021 | title=EMMETT AND PARNELL CLIMB MAJOR GANGOTRI ROCK ROUTE}}</ref><ref name=GR/> In 2019, Emmett and his team had to abandon an expedition to Mount Everest due to the avalanche risk on the route they were planning.<ref name=GR/>
===Para-alpinism===
With para-alpinism, two adventure sports are merged, BASE jumping, and big wall climbing. After ascending a large wall on vertical rock, Emmett put a parachute on to descend down. Only a handful of people do this type of climbing, and Emmett retired from it at the age of 40 due to its high risk of fatality.<ref name=OUT/><ref name=BMC/> Emmett has also done wingsuit flying.<ref name=BMC/>
== Media == Emmett has appeared in more than 50 magazines including ''Outside Magazine'', ''Sports Illustrated'', ''Gripped'', ''Grip'', ''Desnivel'', ''GQ'' and others. Emmett has been the subject of several short films on climbing, including ''Psiobloc'' (2003),<ref name=A2/> ''Dosage II'' (2004),<ref name=DOS/> ''Dosage III'' (2005),<ref name=DOS>{{cite web | url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/publications/film_and_dvds/dosage_3_by_big_up_productions-175 | title=Review: Dosage 3 by Big Up Productions | first=Michael | last=Ryan | date=31 January 2006 | access-date=22 December 2021 | website=UKClimbing.com}}</ref> ''Welsh Connections'' (2009),<ref>{{cite magazine | magazine=Outside | url=https://www.climbing.com/videos/welsh-connections-trailer/ | first=Dave | last=Brown | date=9 November 2009 | access-date=22 December 2021 | title=Welsh Connections – Trailer}}</ref> ''Mountain'' (2017),<ref name=MNTN>{{cite web | url=https://www.mntnfilm.com/en/film/mountain-2017 | title=Mountain | date=2017 | access-date=22 December 2021 | website=MNTNFILM Database}}</ref> and ''Deep Water'' (2019).<ref name=A1/><ref name=A3/>
Emmett has made several appearances on the ''BBC'' as a presenter and guest, including: ''Ultimate Rock Climb'' with Julia Bradbury (2007),<ref>{{cite web | url= https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=962 | title=The Julia Bradbury Collection ticklist | website=UKClimbing.com | date=2007 | access-date=21 December 2021}}</ref> ''The Great Climb'' with British climber Dave MacLeod (2010),<ref>{{cite web | website=BBC News | url=https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-scotland-highlands-islands-11168710 | title=Dave MacLeod reveals Great Climb fears | date=3 December 2010 | access-date=21 December 2021}}</ref> and ''Top Gear'' (episode 2, season 7) with Jeremy Clarkson racing up a mountain with Leo Houlding (2005).<ref>{{cite magazine | url=https://www.rockandice.com/videos/climbing/top-gear-jeremy-clarkson-vs-leo-houlding/ | magazine=Outside | title=Top Gear: Jeremy Clarkson vs. Leo Houlding | access-date=21 December 2021 | date=2005}}</ref> Emmett has worked with Steve Backshall on his children's show.
In 2005, Emmett wrote a book with fellow British-climber Neil Gresham called ''Preposterous Tales'', about their climbing exploits around the world.<ref>{{cite book | title=Preposterous Tales: The International Climbing Escapades of Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett and Friends | date= 15 October 2005 | publisher=Cordee | isbn=978-1904207375|first1=Neil | last1=Gresham | first2=Tim | last2=Emmett}}</ref>
He has presented the Duke Of Edinburgh Award three times at St. James's Palace.
==Personal life== As of 2016, Emmett was living in Squamish, British Columbia, Canada and was married.<ref name=BMC/>
==See also== *Mountain Hardwear, Emmett's long-term sponsor *''Mountain'', 2017 film that includes Tim Emmett
==References== {{reflist}}
== External links == * {{Official website|http://www.timemmett.com}} * {{IMDb name|2532405}} * [https://www.mntnfilm.com/en/filmography/tim-emmett Tim Emmett Filmography] at MNTNFILM Database (2021) {{Authority control}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Emmett, Tim}} Category:Living people Category:People from Taunton Category:Alumni of Bangor University Category:British rock climbers Category:English mountain climbers Category:Ice climbers Category:1973 births