{{Short description|Traditional climbing route in Austria}} {{italic title}} {{good article}} {{About|the Austrian climbing route|the book by Ernst Bloch|The Principle of Hope}} {{Use dmy dates|date=January 2024}} {{Infobox climbing route |name=Prinzip Hoffnung |photo=Prinzip Hoffnung Anna Hazelnutt 1.png |photo_caption=Anna Hazlett inspecting ''Prinzip Hoffnung'' |location=Bürs, Vorarlberg, Austria |map=Austria |coords={{coord|47.15078|N|9.80127|E|display=inline,title}}<ref>{{Cite web |title=Prinzip Hoffnung X/X+|url= https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/austria/route/721390221 |access-date=15 September 2023 |website=theCrag |language=en}}</ref> |climbing_area={{langx|de|Bürser Platte}} |other_name=Principle Hope (Principle of Hope) |map_width=220 |map_caption= |rock_type=Conglomerate |rating=5.14 R (US), 8b/+ (French), X/X+ (UIAA), or E9-E10 (British)<ref name=DN/><ref name=GR4/> |bolted_by= |ffa={{ill|Beat Kammerlander|de}}<br/>(1997, as a sport climb),<br/>(2009, as a traditional climb) |fffa=Barbara Zangerl, March 2014 |vertical_gain={{Convert|40|m|ft|adj=off}}<ref name=DN/> |pitches=1 |route_type = {{plainlist| *Traditional climbing *Slab climbing *Crack climbing}} }} '''''Prinzip Hoffnung''''' (in English: '''''Principle Hope''''' or '''''Principle of Hope'''''), is a {{Convert|40|m|ft|adj=on}} long traditional climbing route on a thin crack up a conglomerate rock slab on the "Bürs plate cliff" ({{langx|de|Bürser Platte}}) overlooking the village of Bürs in Vorarlberg, Austria.<ref name=DN/> The route was greenpointed by Austrian climber {{ill|Beat Kammerlander|de}} in 2009, and was one of the earliest traditional climbing routes to be graded at 5.14 R (American), 8b/+ (French), X/X+ (UIAA), or E9-E10 (British);<ref name=DN/> it is still considered one of the hardest traditional climbing routes in the world.<ref name=Gripped2021/>
==History==
The blank south-facing black conglomerate slab on the "Bürs plate cliff" that overlooks the village of Bürs in Vorarlberg, had been known to climbers in the region as a possible project.<ref name=DN/><ref name=CLMC>{{cite web | magazine=Climber | url=https://www.climber.co.uk/news/maddy-cope-adds-prinzip-hoffnung-to-her-euro-tick-list/ | title=Maddy Cope adds Prinzip Hoffnung to her Euro tick-list | date=3 April 2019 | accessdate=15 October 2024}}</ref>
In 1997, Austrian climber Marco Wasina made the first redpoint (i.e. after several failed attempts, the first free ascent without falling during that ascent) of the lower part of the route up the length of the first {{Convert|25|m|ft|adj=on}} thin crack that splits the face, which he did as a bolted sport climb.<ref name=DN/><ref name=PM1/> A few months later, his friend {{ill|Beat Kammerlander|de}} repeated Wasina's route, and then made the difficult moves to extend the route rightwards into another set of even smaller fissure cracks through an almost blank featureless section of {{Convert|6|m|ft|adj=off}} to create an even harder {{Convert|40|m|ft|adj=on}} sport climb that he graded at 8b/8b+ (French).<ref name=DN/><ref name=PM11/><ref name=PM1/>
In 2009, Kammerlander removed the bolts (called ''greenpointing'') and spent several months training and mentally preparing himself (and admitting to sleepless nights worrying about the falls),<ref name=PM11/> to reclimb it as a traditional route.<ref name=PM11/><ref name=TEL/> During his attempts, he took several {{Convert|15|m|ft|adj=on}} falls from its crux onto small wires below.<ref name=PM11/> In September 2009, Kammerlander, aged 50, made the first free ascent (FFA) of ''Prinzip Hoffnung'' as a traditional climb.<ref name=PM1/> He said: "The Burs Face has always fascinated me. The climb is very particular and uses tiny edges and footholds. If you try it too often you bloody your fingers and wear through the rubber on your shoes. It's a hell of a battle."<ref name=PM11/><ref name=TEL/>
In March 2014, Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl made the fifth overall free ascent and the first female free ascent (FFFA) of the route.<ref name=GR/> Even a decade after Kammerlander's first ascent, the route had only recorded its tenth ascent,<ref name=CLMC/><ref name=GR2/> and in 2023, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest traditional climbing routes in the world.<ref name=Gripped2021>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/the-worlds-hardest-trad-routes-by-winter-2021/ | title=The World’s Hardest Trad Routes by Winter 2021 | date=1 February 2021 | accessdate=21 March 2023}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=99 boulders | url=https://www.99boulders.com/hardest-trad-climbs | title=The Hardest Trad Climbs in the World | first=Willis | last=Kuelthau | date=24 September 2019 | accessdate=15 September 2023}}</ref>
==Route==
The route is described as a mix of a crack climb and of a slab climb.<ref name=PMIB/> The first section is the {{Convert|25|m|ft|adj=on}} thin finger-crack protected by small cams and wires that eventually peters out.<ref name=GR2/><ref name=GRIB/> The crux is the transition right across the slab and upwards for another {{Convert|6|m|ft|adj=off}} to get to a second, very narrow crack, around 9m long, which leads to the top.<ref name=PM11/> The crux is described as crimpy and unprotected,<ref name=PM11/> and there is a long distance — known in climbing as a runout — to the last point of climbing protection (i.e. being the micro-wire inserted at the top of the first crack).<ref name=PM11/><ref name=GR2/> Falls at the crux are intimidating, with an added danger that if the last micro-wire breaks, the fall can be over {{Convert|15-20|m|ft|adj=off}} in length.<ref name=UKC7/>
==Legacy== The ''Prinzip Hoffnung'' route is considered a classic crack/slab traditional climb and an important testpiece,<ref name=PM8/> with subsequent repeat climbs of ''Prinzip Hoffnung'' being closely followed and recorded in the climbing media.<ref name=GR9/> Both British climber Maddy Cope, and American climber Anna Hazlett ['Anna Hazelnutt'], said that it was a dream-climb.<ref name=GR9/> Hazlett called it "a perfect mix of crack and slab – although it was definitely more cracky than I anticipated".<ref name=UKC7/>
The route is an important part of Beat Kammerlender's legacy, who was one of Europe's strongest rock climbers in the 1990s, and who made the first-ever ascents of multi-pitch routes at the grade of {{climbing grade|8a+}} and of {{climbing grade|8b+}}. Kammerlander remarked in 2009 that the climb had "an equal significance in my personal development" as his other major climbing projects that had also required him to develop himself.<ref name=PM11/><ref name=TEL/>
== Ascents == [[File:Prinzip Hoffnung Anna Hazelnutt 2.png|thumb|upright=0.7|Climber abseiling ''Prinzip Hoffnung'', Bürs]] ''Prinzip Hoffnung'' has been ascended by (first ten ascents): *1st. {{ill|Beat Kammerlander|de}} in September 2009.<ref name=DN/><ref name=PM11>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/beat-kammerlander-believes-in-prinzip-hoffnung.html | date=March 2009 | accessdate=15 September 2023 | title=Beat Kammerlander believes in Prinzip Hoffnung}}</ref><ref name=TEL>{{cite web | newspaper=The Daily Telegraph | url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/austria/6242883/Principle-Hope-climber-Beat-Kammerlander-scales-vertical-cliff-in-Austria.html | date=29 September 2009 | accessdate=15 September 2023 | title=Principle Hope: climber Beat Kammerlander scales vertical cliff in Austria}}</ref> *2nd. Alex Luger in December 2009.<ref name=DN>{{cite web | magazine=Desnivel | url=https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/prinzip-hoffnung-de-locura-de-beat-kammerlander-a-nueva-clasica/ | title=Prinzip Hoffnung, from Beat Kammerlander madness to new classic | date=10 March 2014 | accessdate=15 September 2023 | language=es| trans-title=es}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/prinzip-hoffnung-second-ascent-by-alex-luger.html | date=March 2010 | accessdate=15 September 2023 | title=Prinzip Hoffnung, second ascent by Alex Luger}}</ref> * 3rd. Jacopo Larcher in February 2014.<ref name=DN/><ref name=PM1>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-repeats-prinzip-hoffnung-in-austria.html | date=February 2014 | accessdate=15 September 2023 | title=Jacopo Larcher repeats Prinzip Hoffnung in Austria}}</ref> * 4th. {{ill|Fabian Buhl|de}} in March 2014.<ref name=DN/><ref>{{cite web | website=UKClimbing | first=Bjorn | last=Pohl | date=7 March 2014 | accessdate=15 September 2023 | url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/prinzip_hoffnung_8b+_e910_by_fabi_buhl-68765 | title=Prinzip Hoffnung, ~8b+ E9/10, by Fabi Buhl }}</ref> * 5th. Barbara Zangerl in March 2014.<ref name=GR/> * 6th. {{ill|Christian Bindhammer|de}} in April 2014.<ref name=GR5/><ref name=UKC2/> * 7th. Michael Gunsilius in February 2018.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=LACrux | url=https://www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/Michael-gunsilius-climbs-principle-of-hope/ | title=Michael Gunsilius climbs principle hope | date=12 February 2018 | accessdate=15 September 2023}}</ref> * 8th. Nemuel Feurle, aged 16, in April 2018.<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/young-nemuel-feurle-masters-prinzip-hoffnung-in-austria.html | date=April 2018| accessdate=15 September 2023 | title=Young Nemuel Feurle masters Prinzip Hoffnung}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=LACrux | url=https://www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/nemuel-feurle-climbs-hope-in-the-age-of-16-years/ | title=Nemuel Feurle climbs the principle of hope at the age of 16 years | date=3 April 2018 | accessdate=15 September 2023}}</ref> * 9th. {{ill|Michi Wohlleben|de}} in March 2019.<ref name=GR5>{{cite web | website=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/news/michi-wohlleben-sends-hard-trad-then-gets-bacteria-infection/ | date=19 March 2019 | accessdate=15 September 2023 | title=Michi Wohlleben Sends Hard Trad then Gets Bacteria Infection}}</ref><ref name=UKC2>{{cite web | website=UKClimbing | url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/03/michi_wohlleben_climbs_prinzip_hoffnung_f8b+e910-71884 | date=13 March 2019 | accessdate=15 September 2023 | first=Nick | last=Brown | title=Michi Wohlleben climbs Prinzip Hoffnung F8b+/E9/10}}</ref> * 10th. {{ill|Nadine Wallner|de}} in March 2019.<ref name=PM8/>
First female free ascents (FFFA) were: * 1st. Barbara Zangerl in March 2014.<ref name=GR>{{cite web | website=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/news/babsi-zangerl-sends-test-piece-prinzip-hoffnung-5-14/ | date=18 March 2014 | accessdate=15 September 2023 | title=Babsi Zangerl Sends Test-Piece Prinzip Hoffnung 5.14}}</ref> * 2nd. {{ill|Nadine Wallner|de}} in March 2019.<ref name=PM8>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/nadine-wallner-picture-perfect-on-prinzip-hoffnung-at-burs.html | date=March 2019| accessdate=15 September 2023 | title=Nadine Wallner picture-perfect on Prinzip Hoffnung at Bürs}}</ref> *3rd. Madeleine Cope in April 2019.<ref name=CLMC/><ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/madeleine-cope-deals-with-trad-slab-prinzip-hoffnung.html | date=April 2019| accessdate=15 September 2023 | title=Madeleine Cope deals with difficult trad slab Prinzip Hoffnung}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=UKClimbing | url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/04/maddy_cope_climbs_prinzip_hoffnung_f8be9-71907 | title=Maddy Cope climbs Prinzip Hoffnung F8b/E9 | first=Nick | last=Brown | date=2 April 2019 | accessdate=15 September 2023}}</ref><ref name=GR9>{{cite web | website=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/news/now-maddy-cope-sends-pinzip-hoffnung-5-14r/ | date=3 April 2019 | accessdate=16 September 2023 | title=Now Maddy Cope Sends Pinzip Hoffnung 5.14 R}}</ref> *4th. Lena Marie Müller in February 2020.<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/lena-marie-muller-repeats-prinzip-hoffnung-beat-kammerlander-perfect-trad-climb-at-burs.html | date=March 2020 | accessdate=15 September 2023 | title=Lena Marie Müller repeats Prinzip Hoffnung, Beat Kammerlander’s perfect trad climb at Bürs}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=LACrux | url=https://www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/lena-marie-mueller-fourth-female-ascent-of-the-tradroute-principle-of-hope/ | title=Lena Marie Müller: Fourth female ascent of the principle hope principle | date=6 March 2020 | accessdate=15 September 2023}}</ref><ref name=GR4>{{cite web | website=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/news/lena-marie-muller-sends-prinzip-hoffnung-5-14r-trad/ | date=3 March 2020 | accessdate=15 September 2023 | title=Lena Marie Müller Sends Prinzip Hoffnung 5.14R Trad}}</ref> *5th. Luisa Deubzer in March 2022.<ref name=GR2/> *6th. Anna Hazlett ['Anna Hazelnutt'] in March 2023.<ref name=GR2>{{cite web | website=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/video/anna-hazelnutt-sends-iconic-spicy-trad-line-in-europe/ | first=Aaron | last=Pardy | date=23 April 2023 | accessdate=15 September 2023 | title=Anna Hazelnutt Sends Iconic Spicy Trad Line in Europe}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/anna-hazlett-tiptoes-up-prinzip-hoffnung-at-burs-in-austria.html | date=March 2023| accessdate=15 September 2023 | title=Anna Hazlett tiptoes up Prinzip Hoffnung at Bürs in Austria}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/climbing-news-hard-trad-repeat-patagonian-fa/ | date=21 March 2023 | accessdate=15 September 2023 | title=Anna Hazelnutt Ticks 5.14 Gear | first=Delaney | last=Miller}}</ref><ref name=UKC7>{{cite web | website=UKClimbing | url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/03/prinzip_hoffnung_e910_by_anna_hazlett-73283 | title=Prinzip Hoffnung E9/10 by Anna Hazlett | first=Nathalie | last=Berry | date=20 March 2023 | accessdate=15 September 2023}}</ref> *7th. Iris Bielli in March 2024.<ref name=PMIB>{{cite web | magazine=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/iris-bielli-blasts-up-prinzip-hoffnung-burs-austria.html | title=Iris Bielli blasts up Prinzip Hoffnung at Bürs in Austria | date=19 March 2024 | accessdate=10 April 2024}}</ref><ref name=GRIB>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine| url=https://gripped.com/news/20-year-old-climbs-5-13d-14a-trad-in-austria/ | title=20-Year-Old Climbs 5.13d/14a Trad in Austria | date=20 March 2024 | accessdate=10 April 2024 | first=Aaron | last=Pardy}}</ref>
==See also== *''Indian Face'', British E9-graded traditional climbing route from 1986 *''Separate Reality'', American 5.12a-graded traditional climbing route from 1978 *''Cobra Crack'', American 5.14b-graded traditional climbing route from 2006
==References== {{reflist}}
==External links== *[https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/austria/route/721390221 Prinzip Hoffnung], ''theCrag'' (2023) *[https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/beat-kammerlander-believes-in-prinzip-hoffnung.html VIDEO: Beat Kammerlander climbing Prinzip Hoffnung], ''PlanetMountain'' (2009) *[https://gripped.com/news/anna-hazelnutt-sends-spicy-slab-trad-route-in-austria/ VIDEO: Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl on Prinzip Hoffnung], ''Gripped Magazine'' (2023) *[https://gripped.com/video/anna-hazelnutt-sends-iconic-spicy-trad-line-in-europe/ VIDEO: Anne Hazelnutt on Prinzip Hoffnung], ''Gripped Magazine'' (2023)
Category:Traditional climbing routes Category:Sports venues in Vorarlberg Category:Climbing in Austria