{{Short description|Mountain in the American state of Alaska}} {{Use mdy dates|date=January 2025}} {{Infobox mountain | name = Mount Barrille | image = Mountain In Denali Park.jpg | image_caption = East face of Barrille with Japanese Couloir (left) | elevation_ft = 7650 | elevation_ref = <ref>[https://listsofjohn.com/peak/147747 Mount Barrille at listsofjohn.com]</ref> | prominence_ft = 1201 | prominence_ref = <ref name=peakbagger>{{cite peakbagger|pid=283|name= Mount Barrille, Alaska|accessdate=2019-05-22}}</ref> | parent_peak = Mount Dickey | range = Alaska Range | map = USA Alaska | range_coordinates = | map_caption = Location in Alaska | label_position = right | mapframe = yes | mapframe-zoom = 8 | mapframe-caption = Interactive map of Mount Barrille | country = United States | state = Alaska | region = Matanuska-Susitna | region_type = Borough | part_type = Protected area | part = Denali National Park | coordinates = {{coord|62|58|00|N|150|43|17|W|type:mountain_region:US-AK_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}} | coordinates_ref = <ref name=peakbagger/> | topo = USGS ''Talkeetna D-2'' | first_ascent = July 20, 1957 by Fred Beckey and John Rupley | easiest_route = West face | rock = Granite }} '''Mount Barrille ''' is a {{convert|7650|ft|-1|abbr=on}} mountain summit located in the Alaska Range, in Denali National Park and Preserve, in the U.S. state of Alaska. It is situated 2,650 feet above the Ruth Glacier at the gateway to the Don Sheldon Amphitheater, or The Great Gorge, depending on direction of travel. Barrille is set {{convert|11.43|mi|km|0|abbr=on}} southeast of Denali, {{convert|3.37|mi|km|0|abbr=on}} west of The Mooses Tooth, {{convert|3.68|mi|km|0|abbr=on}} east of The Rooster Comb, and {{convert|1.42|mi|km|0|abbr=on}} north of Mount Dickey which is the nearest higher peak. The mountain was named by famed explorer Dr. Frederick Cook for '''Edward Barrill''' (1861–1946), a horse packer from Darby, Montana, who was his sole companion during his 1906 claim to be the first to climb Denali.<ref name="gnis">{{cite gnis|id=1398634|name=Mount Barrille|accessdate=2019-05-22}}</ref> The claim was later disproved, and in 1909 Barrill signed an affidavit stating that they had not reached the summit. Cook referred to his companion as ''Barrille'' in his accounts of the expedition, and Barrille remains as the official spelling used by the United States Geological Survey.<ref>{{Cite web | url=http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214096/Mt-Barrill-Birthday-Party | title=AAC Publications - Mt. Barrill, Birthday Party }}</ref>
==Climbing==
Despite its relatively low elevation, Mt. Barrille is notable for its imposing east face with nearly 2,600 feet of vertical sheer granite. It is one of the more frequently climbed peaks in the Ruth Gorge owing in part to its proximity to the air taxi landing area and the Sheldon Chalet immediately west of the peak. There are several climbing routes with different ranges of technical difficulty. The ''Japanese Couloir'' is a moderate, Alaska grade III route featuring steep 55-70 degree angle snow and ice.<ref>http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Alaska-USA-Mount-Barrill-Japanese-Couloir {{Dead link|date=February 2022}}</ref> The first ascent of this route was made in 1976 by Teruaki Segawa, Kensei Suga, Masayuki Suemasa, and Eiji Tsai.<ref>[https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107179769/japanese-couloir Japanses Couloir] Mountain Project</ref>
Another popular route to the summit is the ''Cobra Pillar'', a direct line up the central pillar of the east face. Named for its resemblance to a cobra from certain angles, this route is rated YDS 5.11.<ref>[http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Alaska-USA-Mount-Barrill-Cobra-Pillar Cobra Pillar, Mount Barrill] supertopo.com</ref> The first ascent of this route was made by Jim Donini and Jack Tackle over six days in June 1991.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212820/Mt-Barrill-Cobra-Pillar-Mt-Bradley-south-face-The-Pearl-Mt-Dickey-southeast-face-repeats-and-speed-ascents|title = AAC Publications - Mt. Barrill, Cobra Pillar; Mt. Bradley, south face, the Pearl; Mt. Dickey, southeast face; repeats and speed ascents}}</ref><ref>Fifty Favorite Climbs: The Ultimate North American Tick List, Mark Kroese author, The Mountaineers Books, 2001, page 73.</ref> The first one-day speed ascent of the route was made in June 2004 by Joe Puryear and Chris McNamara.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://alaskaclimbing.blogspot.com/2004/06/cobra-pillar-first-one-day-speed-ascent.html|title=Climb Alaska: The Cobra Pillar - first one day - speed ascent, Mt. Barrill, Alaska Range|date=30 June 2004}}</ref>
The ''Baked Alaskan'' route is on the east face and is rated 5.10+. The first ascent was made by Brian Teale and Scott Thelen in July 2001.<ref>[http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,309,0,1,mountains.html Mount Barrill] climbandmore.com</ref>
The west aspect of the mountain is covered by glacial ice and gentle enough to be descended by skiing.
==Climate== Based on the Köppen climate classification, Mount Barrille is located in a Tundra climate zone with long, cold, snowy winters, and cool summers.<ref name=Peel>{{cite journal | author = Peel, M. C. |author2=Finlayson, B. L. |author3=McMahon, T. A. | year = 2007 | title = Updated world map of the Köppen−Geiger climate classification | journal = Hydrol. Earth Syst. Sci. | volume = 11 |issue=5 |page=1633 |doi=10.5194/hess-11-1633-2007 |bibcode=2007HESS...11.1633P | issn = 1027-5606 | doi-access = free | bibcode-access = free}}</ref> Weather systems are forced upwards by the Alaska Range (orographic lift), causing heavy precipitation in the form of snowfall. Winter temperatures can drop below −20 °F with wind chill factors below −30 °F. The months May through June offer the most favorable weather for viewing and climbing.<ref>[https://www.alpineinstitute.com/articles/faqs/denali-faq/#:~:text=1.-,What%20do%20you%20recommend%20as%20the%20best%20month%20to%20climb,combination%20of%20weather%20and%20conditions. ''Denali FAQ'', American Alpine Institute], alpineinstitute.com, Retrieved 2024-01-08.</ref>
==Gallery== <div style="max-width: 480px;"> <gallery mode=slideshow> File:Dickey and Barrille.jpg|Mt. Barrille (front) with Mt. Dickey behind, as seen from the north at Don Sheldon Amphitheater (formerly Ruth Amphitheater) File:Mount Dickey and Ruth Glacier.jpg|Ruth Glacier, Mt. Dickey, and Mt. Barrille (bottom) File:Mount Barrille.jpg File:Mount Barrille circa 1908.jpg|Mount Barrille as it appears in Frederick Cook's book "To the Top of the Continent" (1908) File:Edward Barrill.jpg|Edward Barrill circa 1908 File:Fakepeak.jpg|Cook's hoax photo of Ed Barrill atop a peak claimed to be Mt. McKinley </gallery> </div>
==See also== {{stack|{{portal|Mountains|Alaska}}}} *Mountain peaks of Alaska *Fake Peak
==References== {{reflist}}
==External links== * Barrill and Dr. Cook: [http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198808000/Barrill-and-Dr-Cook American Alpine Club Publications] * Weather: [https://www.yr.no/en/forecast/daily-table/2-5880046/United%20States/Alaska/Matanuska-Susitna/Mount%20Barrille Mount Barrille] * NOAA weather: [https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=62.8948&lon=-150.7077#.XN3SRNhlBLM Talkeetna] * Skiing west slope: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUE7-nmKl84 YouTube] * Summit photo panorama: [https://npgallery.nps.gov/AssetDetail/60845e40-4a3e-46e0-ac70-5a1602e67a02 National Park Service]
{{DEFAULTSORT:Barrille, Mount}} Category:Alaska Range Category:Mountains of Matanuska-Susitna Borough, Alaska Category:Mountains of Denali National Park and Preserve Category:Climbing areas of Alaska Category:Two-thousanders of the United States