{{Short description|American mountain climber (born 1943)}} {{Infobox person | name = Jim Donini | image = | alt = | caption = | birth_name = James Donini | birth_date = {{birth date and age|mf=yes|1943|07|23}} | birth_place = Philadelphia, PA, US | death_date = <!-- {{Death date and age|YYYY|MM|DD|YYYY|MM|DD}} --> | death_place = | other_names = | known_for = | spouse = Angela Goodacre | children = Sage Hunter Donini, Montana Donini | parents = Ugo and Elizabeth A. Donini | occupation = Alpine Climber }}
'''James "Jim" Donini''' (born July 23, 1943) is an American rock climber and alpinist, noted for a long history of cutting-edge climbs in Alaska and Patagonia.<ref>{{Citation | last = Owens | first = Rob | title = The Lure of Commitment: Alpinism's Hard Questions | magazine = Gripped | location = Toronto, Ontario, Canada | pages = 45 | year = 2006 | issn = 1488-0814 }}</ref> He was president of the American Alpine Club from 2006 to 2009,<ref>{{Cite web|title=Past Presidents |publisher=The American Alpine Club |url=http://www.americanalpineclub.org/pt/pastpresidents |access-date=Dec 24, 2009 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100213043702/http://www.americanalpineclub.org/pt/pastpresidents |archive-date=2010-02-13 }}</ref> and a 1999 recipient of the AAC's Robert and Miriam Underhill Award.<ref>{{Cite web| title =The Robert and Miriam Underhill Award| publisher =The American Alpine Club| url =http://www.americanalpineclub.org/award/6| access-date =Dec 24, 2009| url-status =dead| archive-url =https://web.archive.org/web/20090714122106/http://www.americanalpineclub.org/award/6| archive-date =2009-07-14}}</ref>
Donini first began climbing in the 1960s while serving with the United States Army Special Forces.<ref name=VIMFF>{{Cite web |last=Schaufele |first=Tim |date=2019-10-21 |title=Interview With American Alpine Legend Jim Donini {{!}} VIMFF |url=https://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/interview-with-jim-donini-vimff/ |access-date=2024-07-19 |website=Squamish Climbing Magazine |language=en}}</ref>
In 1978 Donini along with George Lowe spent 26 days climbing Latok's unclimbed North Ridge, which Donini has described as the "''most awe inspiring and beautiful mountain cathedral on the planet''".<ref name=VIMFF/>
==Notable climbs== * 1976 ''Torre Egger'' - First Ascent - with John Bragg, and Jay Wilson from the United States, by climbing first to the col between the Egger and Cerro Torre, the Col of Conquest, and then up the ridge to the peak. The ascent was hampered by bad weather and took from December 1975 to February 22, 1976 when the 3-person team summitted.<ref>{{cite journal | last = Bragg | first = John | title = Torre Egger | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 21 | issue = 51 | pages = 49–56 | publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York, NY, USA | year = 1977 | isbn = 978-0-930410-31-5 | url=https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197704900/Torre-Egger | access-date = 23 October 2025 }}</ref> * 1978 ''North Ridge'' on Latok I, Karakorum Range, Pakistan. Attempt with Michael Kennedy, George Lowe and Jeff Lowe (climber) (all USA).<ref>{{Cite journal | last = Kennedy | first = Michael | title = Latok I | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 22 | issue = 53 | pages = 24–28 | publisher = American Alpine Club | location = NYC, NY, USA | year = 1979 | issn = 0065-6925 }}</ref> * 1991 ''Cobra Pillar'' on the east face of Mount Barrille, Ruth Gorge, Alaska Range, Alaska, USA (VI 5.10+ A3 WI5? 2300m) FA with Jack Tackle (USA), June 5–10, 1991.<ref name=Snake>{{Cite journal | last = Tackle | first = Jack | title = "Snake Bit" in the Alaska Range | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 34 | issue = 66 | pages = 59–64 | publisher = American Alpine Club | location = NYC, NY, USA | year = 1992 | isbn = 0-930410-51-3 }}</ref> * 1991 ''Viper Ridge'', south spur of southeast ridge to ridge, Mount Foraker, Alaska Range, Alaska USA. FA with Jack Tackle (USA), June 11–17, 1991.<ref name=Snake/> *2000 ''Lightning Spur'', south face Thunder Mountain, Alaska Range, Alaska USA. FA with John Bragg (USA).<ref>{{Cite journal | last = Burcham | first = John | title = Thunder Mountain, South Face, New Route | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 45 | issue = 71 | pages = 205-2064 | publisher = American Alpine Club | location = Golden, CO, USA | year = 2001 | isbn = 0-930410-89-0 }}</ref>
== See also == ''Survival is not Assured: The Life of Climber Jim Donini'' by Geoff Powter, 2024. Mountaineers Books. {{ISBN|978-1-68051-537-4}}
==References== {{Reflist}}
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{{DEFAULTSORT:Donini, Jim}} Category:Living people Category:1943 births Category:Sportspeople from Philadelphia Category:American mountain climbers