{{Short description|Swiss mountaineer}} {{Use dmy dates|date=February 2021}} {{Infobox person | image = Jean Troillet.jpg | caption = Jean Troillet | birth_date = {{birth date and age|df=yes|1948|03|10}} | birth_place = Orsières, Valais, Switzerland | known_for = Fastest speed ascent of Mount Everest | spouse = Mireille Troillet | children = 1, Gustine | website = http://www.troillet.ch/ }}
'''Jean Troillet''' (born 10 March 1948) is a professional mountain climber.
Of Swiss and Canadian nationality, he obtained his mountain guide qualifications in 1969. That year, at the age of 21, he set a speed record for an ascent of the Matterhorn of four hours and ten minutes.<ref>{{cite web|last1=Sampiero|first1=Josh|title=Dani Arnold's speed ascent of the Matterhorn North Face beats Ueli Steck for a new world record.|url=http://www.redbull.com/uk/en/adventure/stories/1331721067560/dani-arnold-speed-ascent-matterhorn|website=redbull.com|access-date=24 November 2015}}</ref> He has climbed 10 peaks of more than 8000 meters, all in alpine style and without oxygen.
Together with Erhard Loretan, Troillet climbed Everest in 1986. The pair holds the speed record for the ascent of Everest by the North Face, 43 hours to the summit and back.<ref>{{Cite web |title=The record-breaker of Himalaya – Lukarn |url=https://lukarn.fr/en/program/the-record-breaker-of-himalaya/ |access-date=2024-07-10 |language=en-GB}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=AAC Publications - Asia, China, Everest, The Hornbein Couloir Direct from Tibet |url=http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198730200/Asia-China-Everest-The-Hornbein-Couloir-Direct-from-Tibet |access-date=2024-07-10 |website=publications.americanalpineclub.org}}</ref>
In 1997, he returned to Everest to make the first snowboard descent from the world's tallest mountain. After summiting without supplementary oxygen, he began his descent at 28,500 feet.<ref>Mt Everest, Tibet, Himalaya 8'848 m., face nord, altitude atteinte 8'400 m. puis descente en snowboard (première) [http://bio.troillet.ch/fr/expeditions.html] {{Webarchive|url=http://archive.wikiwix.com/cache/20110501144802/http://bio.troillet.ch/fr/expeditions.html|date=1 May 2011}}</ref> The ride set an unprecedented altitude record at the time, although was a bit more than 500 feet below the actual summit.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web |last=ncs-import |title=Swiss-Canadian not interested in matching record, has moved onto other things |url=http://www.recordcourier.com/news/2003/apr/10/swiss-canadian-not-interested-in-matching-record-h/ |access-date=2024-07-10 |website=www.recordcourier.com}}</ref>
In the 1990s, he began sailing.<ref name=":0" />
In 2001, Troillet, Mike Horn and Erhard Loretan attempted to cross Greenland on skis pulled by kites for a world record attempt. Poor winds prevented their attempt.<ref>{{Cite web |last=swissinfo.ch |first=S. W. I. |date=2001-05-18 |title=Swiss adventurers abandon Greenland record attempt |url=https://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/life-aging/swiss-adventurers-abandon-greenland-record-attempt/2047072 |access-date=2024-07-10 |website=SWI swissinfo.ch |language=en-GB}}</ref>
In 2009, he completed a new route on the north face of the Matterhorn.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2009-07-28 |title=New Route on Matterhorn North Face |url=https://www.climbing.com/news/new-route-on-matterhorn-north-face/ |access-date=2024-07-10 |website=Climbing |language=en-US}}</ref> He climbed the route in memory of his friend Sébastien Gay, who died the year before in a skiing accident.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2008-03-10 |title=Mort du guide valaisan Sébastien Gay |url=https://www.rts.ch/info/suisse/1090913-mort-du-guide-valaisan-sebastien-gay.html |access-date=2024-07-10 |website=rts.ch |language=fr}}</ref> Troillet placed his friend's ashes at the summit.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Matterhorn North Face - new route or not? |url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/matterhorn-north-face-new-route-or-not |access-date=2024-07-10 |website=www.thebmc.co.uk}}</ref>
== The 8000-metre peaks of Jean Troillet == *K2, 8611 m *Dhaulagiri, 8167 m *Everest, 8848 m *Cho Oyu, 8201 m *Shisha Pangma, 8013 m *Makalu, 8463 m *Lhotse, 8516 m *Kangchenjunga, 8586 m *Gasherbrum I, 8068 m *Gasherbrum II, 8035 m
== Filmography ==
* ''30 Years between 20 Meters of Rope'', 2004<ref>{{Citation |last=Devrient |first=Sébastien |title=30 Years Between 20 Meters of Rope |date=2004-03-15 |type=Documentary, Short |url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10062186/?ref_=nm_flmg_t_10_slf |access-date=2024-07-10 |others=Sébastien Gay, Jean Troillet |publisher=Rolex}}</ref> * ''Montagnes de rêve: la Haute Route'', 2005<ref>{{Citation |last=Devrient |first=Sébastien |title=Montagnes de rêve: la Haute Route |date=2005-03-15 |type=Documentary |url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10013238/?ref_=nm_flmg_t_9_slf |access-date=2024-07-10 |others=Carole Dechantre, Jean Troillet |publisher=Vertiges Prod}}</ref> * ''South Face Annapurna: Living is Victory'', 2008<ref>{{Citation |last=Devrient |first=Sébastien |title=South Face Annapurna: Living Is Victory |date=2008-03-15 |type=Documentary, Short |url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10062280/?ref_=nm_knf_t_2 |access-date=2024-07-10 |others=Sébastien Devrient, Martial Dumas, Jean-Yves Fredriksen |publisher=Rolex}}</ref> * ''La Voie Sébastien Gay'', 2009<ref>{{Citation |last=Devrient |first=Sébastien |title=La Voie Sébastien Gay |date=2009-08-15 |type=Documentary, Short |url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10054158/?ref_=nm_knf_c_4 |access-date=2024-07-10 |others=Martial Dumas, Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Sébastien Gay |publisher=Troillet Aventures, Vertiges Prod}}</ref> * ''Un Violon au Shishapangma'', 2010<ref>{{Citation |last=Devrient |first=Sébastien |title=Un Violon au Shishapangma |date=2010-03-15 |type=Documentary, Short |url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10062578/?ref_=nm_flmg_t_6_slf |access-date=2024-07-10 |others=Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Jean Troillet |publisher=Troillet Aventures, Vertiges Prod}}</ref> * ''Vertiges à l'Annapurna'', 2012<ref>{{Citation |last=Devrient |first=Sébastien |title=Vertiges à l'Annapurna |date=2012-03-15 |type=Documentary, Short |url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10054338/?ref_=nm_flmg_c_5_slf |access-date=2024-07-10 |others=Sébastien Devrient, Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Jean Troillet |publisher=Fondation Jean Troillet, Vertiges Prod}}</ref> * ''Montagnes de rêve: le Grand Paradis'', 2013<ref>{{Citation |last=Devrient |first=Sébastien |title=Montagnes de rêve: le Grand Paradis |date=2013-03-15 |type=Documentary |url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10013916/?ref_=nm_flmg_t_4_slf |access-date=2024-07-10 |others=Carole Dechantre, Jean Troillet |publisher=Vertiges Prod}}</ref> * ''Bylot Island'', 2013<ref>{{Citation |last=Devrient |first=Sébastien |title=Bylot Island |date=2013-03-15 |type=Documentary |url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10056226/?ref_=nm_flmg_t_3_slf |access-date=2024-07-10 |others=Sébastien Devrient, Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Jean Troillet |publisher=Fondation Jean Troillet}}</ref> * ''Groenland pourquoi pas?'', 2016<ref>{{Citation |last=Devrient |first=Sébastien |title=Groenland pourquoi pas? |date=2016-03-15 |type=Documentary |url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10056264/?ref_=nm_flmg_t_2_slf |access-date=2024-07-10 |others=Sébastien Devrient, Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Jean Troillet |publisher=Fondation Jean Troillet, Vertiges Prod}}</ref> * ''Jean Troillet, Toujours Aventurier'' - 2016<ref>{{Cite web |title=Jean Troillet, toujours aventurier |url=https://www.swissfilms.ch/en/movie/jean-troillet-toujours-aventurier/48C30CEA97E744A087B7261E669D1E26 |access-date=2024-07-10 |website=swissfilms |language=en}}</ref>
==See also== *List of 20th-century summiters of Mount Everest
==References== {{reflist}}
==External links== *[http://www.troillet.ch/ Official web site]
{{Authority control}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Troillet, Jean}} Category:1948 births Category:Living people Category:Swiss mountain climbers Category:Swiss summiteers of Mount Everest Category:People from Entremont district Category:Sportspeople from Valais Category:Summiteers of K2