{{Short description|French milliner (1920–2000)}} {{Infobox person |name = Jean Barthet |image = |image_size = |caption = |birth_date = 1920 |birth_place = Nay, Pyrénées-Atlantiques, France |death_date = February 2000 |occupation = Milliner |alias = |signature = Jean Barthet - Signature.png |credits = }} '''Jean Barthet''' (1920–2000) was a French milliner who first rose to prominence in the 1950s as hat maker to Hollywood and French film stars, also designing hats for films such as ''The Young Girls of Rochefort''.
He helped to define fashionable hat styles – including the bucket hat, pillbox hat and fedora – that predominated throughout the 1960s and collaborated with major couture houses.<ref name="Red List Barthet">{{cite web|last1=Leblond|first1=Romuald|title=Jean Barthet (1920-2000)|url=http://theredlist.com/wiki-2-23-1185-1197-view-from-head-to-foot-profile-jean-barthet-1.html|website=theredlist.com|publisher=The Red List|accessdate=3 January 2015|archive-date=18 August 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140818120821/http://theredlist.com/wiki-2-23-1185-1197-view-from-head-to-foot-profile-jean-barthet-1.html|url-status=dead}}</ref> With a career spanning more than 40 years, he remained a favourite hatmaker of Sophia Loren (both for film and personal wear), also creating hats for Michael Jackson's 1988 world tour.<ref name="Sophia Style Donohue">{{cite book|last1=Donohue|first1=Deirdre|title=Sophia Style|date=2001|publisher=Barnes & Noble Publishing Inc|isbn=0760758638|page=92|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=eNHAZi3A-9sC&q=jean+Barthet+%2B+fedora&pg=PA92|accessdate=3 January 2015}}</ref><ref name="Christies MJ">{{cite web|title=Michael Jackson|url=http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/memorabilia/michael-jackson-5574886-details.aspx|website=christies.com|publisher=Christie's|accessdate=3 January 2015}}</ref>
==Early life and career== Jean Barthet was born in Nay, a village in the Pyrenees region of France in 1920 – although he would later put his date of birth as 1930/1.<ref name="La Republique Mourgues">{{cite news|last1=Mourgues|first1=Renee|title=La bastide nayaise de Jean Barthet|url=http://www.larepubliquedespyrenees.fr/2010/08/25/la-bastide-nayaise-de-jean-barthet,152124.php|accessdate=6 December 2014|publisher=La Republique des Pyrenees|date=25 August 2010}}</ref><ref name="Encyclopaedia Universalis Barthet">{{cite web|title=BARTHET Jean|url=http://www.universalis.fr/encyclopedie/jean-barthet/|website=Universalis.fr|publisher=Encyclopaedia Universalis (Fr)|accessdate=6 December 2014}}</ref><ref name="People Andriotakis">{{cite news|last1=Andriotakis|first1=Pamela|title=Jean Barthet's Offbeat Bonnets Are Turning Heads This Spring from Paris to the Pacific|url=http://www.people.com/people/archive/article/0,,20084678,00.html|accessdate=1 December 2014|publisher=People|date=4 April 1983}}</ref> After studying at art college in Toulouse, he left for Paris, working for the milliner Gilbert Orcel before setting up his own salon.<ref name="La Republique Mourgues"/><ref name="People Andriotakis"/>
==International reputation== Barthet presented his first collection in 1949 and soon attracted an international clientele – notable among them were many Hollywood stars.<ref name="How Fashion Works Waddell">{{cite book|last1=Waddell|first1=Gavin|title=How Fashion Works: Couture, Ready-to-Wear and Mass Production|date=2004|publisher=Blackwell Science|location=Oxford|isbn=9780632057528|pages=105|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=GX-uAAAAQBAJ&q=Jean+Barthet+%2B+milliner&pg=PA105|accessdate=24 November 2014}}</ref> He introduced hat styles that attracted newspaper publicity, including a white felt hat inspired by the Texas sheriff's sombrero and a feminine variation on the fedora.<ref name="Pittsburgh Post Gazette Walker">{{cite news|last1=Walker|first1=Nadeane|title=Popcorn Hat in Paris Fit to Eat|url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1129&dat=19550122&id=ubpRAAAAIBAJ&pg=2224,5296459|accessdate=3 January 2015|publisher=Pittsburgh Post Gazette|date=22 January 1955}}</ref><ref name="Knickerbocker News Harrington">{{cite news|last1=Harrington|first1=Katherine|title=Movie Inspires Easter Caravan|url=http://fultonhistory.com/Newspaper%2019/Albany%20NY%20Knickerbocker%20News/Albany%20NY%20Knickerbocker%20News%201963/Albany%20NY%20Knickerbocker%20News%201963%20-%201495.pdf|accessdate=3 January 2015|publisher=The Knickerbocker News (Albany)|date=February 1963}}</ref>
By the early 1960s his clients included Jacqueline Kennedy.<ref name="La Republique Mourgues"/><ref name="JFK Library">{{cite web|title=Ready Reference: Fast Facts about Jacqueline Kennedy|url=http://www.jfklibrary.org/Research/Research-Aids/Ready-Reference/JKO-Fast-Facts.aspx|website=jfklibrary.org|publisher=John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum|accessdate=3 January 2015}}</ref> By the mid 1960s, such was his client list that the ''Chicago Tribune'' said Barthet had: "more star quality customers than any Hollywood studio ever had under contract".<ref name="Chicago Tribune 180265">{{cite news |last1=Monique |date=18 February 1965 |title=Latest from Paris |url=http://archives.chicagotribune.com/1965/02/18/page/47/article/latest-from-paris |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160305070927/http://archives.chicagotribune.com/1965/02/18/page/47/article/latest-from-paris/ |archive-date=2016-03-05 |accessdate=2 December 2014 |publisher=Chicago Tribune}}</ref> These included names such as Sophia Loren, Natalie Wood, Brigitte Bardot and Princess Grace of Monaco.<ref name="FMD Barthet">{{cite web|title=Jean Barthet|url=http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/jean-barthet/|website=fashionmodeldirectory.com|publisher=Fashion Model Directory|accessdate=2 December 2014}}</ref><ref name="Montreal Gazette Massin">{{cite news|last1=Massin|first1=Peggy|title=Eccentricities passe in French millinery|url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1946&dat=19611026&id=WI4tAAAAIBAJ&pg=5208,4804695|accessdate=2 December 2014|publisher=The Montreal Gazette|date=26 October 1961}}</ref>
His collaborations with haute couture houses continued from his early career into the 1980s and he worked with, among others, André Courrèges, Chanel, Claude Montana, Sonia Rykiel, Paco Rabanne and Karl Lagerfeld.<ref name="La Republique Mourgues"/> He collaborated with another notable milliner, Parisian-born Claude Saint-Cyr, who worked with him from the mid 1960s to her retirement in the early 1970s.<ref name="GvA Belga">{{cite news|title=Hoedenmaakster Claude Saint-Cyr overleden|url=http://www.gva.be/cnt/oid208949/archief-hoedenmaakster-claude-saint-cyr-overleden|accessdate=29 November 2014|publisher=Gazette van Antwerpen|date=11 September 2002}}</ref>
==Legacy== Examples of Barthet's hats are in a number of public collections, including the Victoria and Albert Museum and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. In 2011, a vintage Barthet hat featured in a Lady Gaga shoot in ''Vanity Fair''.<ref name="Gaga 6 December 2011">{{cite web|title=Vanity Fair Photo Shoot, part 9: Lady Gaga in Jean Barthet|url=http://gagafashionland.com/2011/12/vanity-fair-photo-shoot-part-9-lady-gaga-in-jean-barthet/#sthash.4COMJxjQ.dpbs|website=gagafashionland.com|publisher=Gaga Fashionland|accessdate=2 December 2014|archive-date=16 February 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170216214225/http://gagafashionland.com/2011/12/vanity-fair-photo-shoot-part-9-lady-gaga-in-jean-barthet/#sthash.4COMJxjQ.dpbs|url-status=usurped}}</ref> In 2014, reproductions inspired by his original models were created by his son Alexandre Barthet for the biopic ''Grace of Monaco''.<ref name="Shapoh 160514">{{cite web|title="Grace of Monaco" debuts at Cannes Film Festival, spotlighting hats by French milliner Jean Barthet|url=http://www.shapoh.com/#!Grace-of-Monaco-debuts-at-Cannes-Film-Festival-spotlighting-hats-by-French-milliner-Jean-Barthet/c1jcb/2478EA85-E3FD-41E1-84D7-B9F13CCA6A32|website=shapoh.com|publisher=Shapoh|accessdate=2 December 2014|ref=16 May 2014}}</ref><ref name="My Daily Jones">{{cite news|last1=Jones|first1=Katie|title=How Nicole Kidman became Grace of Monaco|url=http://www.mydaily.co.uk/2014/06/06/how-nicole-kidman-became-grace-of-monaco/|accessdate=2 December 2014|publisher=My Daily|date=6 June 2014}}</ref>
Barthet was also a keen photographer and his extensive photo archive includes portraits of musicians, actors and fashion designers – some of whom are captured wearing his hat designs.<ref name="JB photography">{{cite web|title=Jean Barthet: About|url=http://www.jeanbarthet.com/#!about/c786|website=jeanbarthet.com|publisher=Jean Barthet (estate)|accessdate=3 January 2015}}</ref>
==References== {{reflist|2}}
==External links== *[https://collections.vam.ac.uk/name/barthet-jean/43030/ Jean Barthet archive at the Victoria and Albert Museum] *[http://metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/93888 Jean Barthet feathered hat at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1960s] *[http://www.britishpathe.com/video/modern-fashion-around-modern-art/query/milliners British Pathé film showing hats by Barthet and clothes by Ungaro and Nina Ricci, 1965] *[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BU-pYBxcP9I Jean Barthet hats at Miss France 1998 on YouTube (from 7:05)]
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{{DEFAULTSORT:Barthet, Jean}} Category:1920 births Category:2000 deaths Category:People from Nay, Pyrénées-Atlantiques Category:French fashion designers Category:French hatters and milliners Category:1940s fashion Category:1950s fashion Category:1960s fashion Category:1970s fashion Category:1980s fashion Category:1990s fashion