{{Short description|Type of embroidery using metal wire}} {{Use dmy dates|date=February 2020}} thumb|upright=1.1|Monumental Indo-Portuguese zardozi velvet panel from Gujarat/Surat, Mughal India, c. 1700–1730. Beatriz de Luna Art Collection, Portugal. thumb|Close-up shoot of zardozi (zardouzi) embroidery [[File:Lady Curzon's peacock gown - Chicago Tribune 27 September 1903.jpg|thumb|Vicereine Lady Curzon's peacock dress, with a skirt made of Indian zardozi needlework featuring green beetle wings and gold and silver thread, was a sensation at her coronation, making the front page of the ''Chicago Tribune'' on 27 September 1903.]] '''Zardozi''', or '''zar-douzi''' or '''zarduzi''' (from Classical Persian زَردوزی ''zardōzī'', literally "gold embroidery"; {{langx|fa|label=Modern Persian|زَردوزی|translit=zarduzi}}; {{langx|hi|ज़रदोज़ी}}, {{langx|tg|зардӯзӣ}}, {{langx|ur|زردوزی}}, {{langx|uz|zardoʻzi}}), is an Iranian, Indian-subcontinent and Central Asian embroidery type. Zardozi comes from two Persian words: ''zar'' or ''zarin'' meaning 'gold', and ''dozi'' meaning 'sewing'.<ref name="Pathak2018">{{cite news |last1=Pathak |first1=Nilima |title=Zardozi workers struggle to make ends meet |url=https://gulfnews.com/lifestyle/zardozi-workers-struggle-to-make-ends-meet-1.2253404 |access-date=7 April 2019 |work=Gulf News |date=18 July 2018 |language=en}}</ref> Zardozi is a type of heavy and elaborate metal embroidery on a silk, satin, or velvet fabric base.<ref name="Naik1996">{{cite book |last1=Naik |first1=Shailaja D. |title=Traditional embroideries of India |date=1996 |publisher=A.P.H. Pub. Corp |isbn=8170247314 |page=144}}</ref> Zardozi embroidery uses a wide variety of gold and silver embellishments such as: flat metal wires, spangles, coiled wires, heavy wires, and twisted wires.{{Cn|date=May 2025}} Designs are often created using gold and silver threads and can incorporate pearls, beads, and precious stones.<ref>{{cite web |title=Indian Zari Embroidery |url=https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/regional-traditions/indian-subcontinent/indian-zari-embroidery |website=TRC Needles |publisher=Textile Research Center |access-date=7 April 2019 |language=en-gb}}</ref> It is used as decoration for a wide range of applications, including clothes, household textiles, and animal trappings.<ref name="Naik1996"/> Historically, it was used to adorn the walls of royal tents, scabbards, wall hangings and the paraphernalia of regal elephants and horses.<ref name="Bhattacharyya2017">{{cite news |last1=Bhattacharyya |first1=Ranadeep |title=Silver and Gold- Story of Zardozi |url=https://heritage-india.com/silver-gold-story-zardozi/ |access-date=7 April 2019 |work=Heritage India Magazine |date=1 August 2017 |archive-date=8 April 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190408014544/https://heritage-india.com/silver-gold-story-zardozi/ |url-status=dead }}</ref>
Initially, the embroidery was done with pure silver wires and real gold leaves. However, today, craftsmen make use of a combination of copper wire, with a golden or silver polish, and silk thread.
==Iran== Zardozi is an important handicraft in Persian culture. It is known around the country by names such as ''zar-douzi'' ({{langx|fa|زردوزی}}), ''kam-douzi'' ({{langx|fa|کمدوزی}}), ''gol-douzi'' ({{langx|fa|گلدوزی}}) and ''kaman-douzi'' ({{langx|fa|کماندوزی}}). Nowadays it is more popular in Hormozgan, especially in Bandar-e Lenge, Bandar-e Abbas, and Minab.<ref name="aftab">{{cite web |url=http://www.aftabir.com/articles/view/art_culture/handicrafts/c5c1232795885_passementerie_p1.php/%DA%AF%D9%84%D8%A7%D8%A8%D8%AA%D9%88%D9%86-%D8%AF%D9%88%D8%B2%DB%8C |title=گلابتون دوزی |trans-title=Scarabs |language=fa |date=5 February 2008 |access-date=21 May 2011}}</ref>
Persian zardozi is of three kinds:
* Some people completely sew the basic fabric with Bakhie ({{langx|fa|بخیه}}) in order to produce novel patterns and colors, such as the Baloch's Souzan-douzi ({{langx|fa|سوزندوزی}}), Rasht's Qollab-douzi ({{langx|fa|قلابدوزی}}) and Kerman's Pate-douzi ({{langx|fa|پَتهدوزی}}). * Some sew with less density of work on the original fabric. They cross the strings throughout the woof of the fabric and sew them to each other to form a colorfully patterned lattice, such as ''sekke-douzi'' ({{langx|fa|سکّهدوزی}}) or ''qollab-douzi'' ({{langx|fa|قلابدوزی}}) in Isfahan. * A third way is to sew a variety of patterns on the original fabric with gold and silver strings, such as ''Dah-Yek-Douzi'' ({{langx|fa|دهيکدوزی}}), Naqade-douzi ({{langx|fa|نقدهدوزی}}), Tafte-douzi ({{langx|fa|تافتهدوزی}}), Kous-douzi ({{langx|fa|خوسدوزی}}) Zari-douzi ({{langx|fa|زردوزی}}) or Golabatoun-douzi ({{langx|fa|گلابتوندوزی}}).<ref name="aftab"/>
==Indian subcontinent== [[File:John Lockwood Kipling - Zardozi workers in Delhi 2007BM7334 jpg l.jpg|thumb|Drawing of Delhi gold embroiderers at work in 1870, by John Lockwood Kipling]]thumb|Zari tapestry As an embroidery, zardozi was first used in the 14th century.{{Cn|date=May 2025}} It prospered during the 17th century during the reign of the Mughal empire, but later a loss of royal patronage and industrialization led to its decline. The craft is often called "zari" and began to experience a resurgence in popularity following India's independence in 1947.<ref name="Pathak2018"/> Today, it is one of the most popular embroideries found on the Indian subcontinent.<ref name="Bhattacharyya2017"/>
Zardozi and chikan were historically favored by Mughal elites; products made in these styles symbolized wealth, power and status. The Zardozi production was often associated with a courtly culture and commonly found on handicrafts throughout the country.<ref>{{Cite book |last1=Wilkinson-Weber |first1=Clare M. |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ckQHEAAAQBAJ&dq=zardozi+predominantly+Muslims&pg=PT194 |title=Critical Craft: Technology, Globalization, and Capitalism |last2=DeNicola |first2=Alicia Ory |date=2020-05-26 |publisher=Routledge |isbn=978-1-000-18177-7 |language=en}}</ref> This craft is practiced throughout India, from major cities like Kolkata, Delhi, Mumbai, to smaller centers such as Agra, Bareilly, and Farrukhabad, and historic regions like Lucknow, Hyderabad, and Bhopal.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.culturalindia.net/indian-crafts/zardozi.html |title=Zardozi |website=Cultural India |access-date=25 May 2008 |archive-date=8 April 2009 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090408083037/http://www.culturalindia.net/indian-crafts/zardozi.html |url-status=dead }}</ref> In 2013, the Geographical Indication Registry (GIR) accorded Geographical Indication (GI) registration to the Lucknow zardozi. With GI status, zardozi artisans, distributors, and retailers in Lucknow and the six surrounding districts of Barabanki, Unnao, Sitapur, Rae Bareli, Hardoi and Amethi can become authorized users of the "Lucknow zardozi" brand and carry a unique mark of authenticity.<ref>{{cite news|title=Lucknow zardozi gets GI registration|url=http://www.business-standard.com/article/current-affairs/lucknow-zardozi-gets-gi-registration-113042400432_1.html|access-date=10 July 2013|newspaper=The Business Standard|date=24 April 2013 |author=Rawat, Virendra Singh |location=New Delhi/Lucknow }}</ref>
Zardozi is a popular embroidery choice across Pakistan especially for wedding or formal wear, with artisans and couture houses alike producing clothing with zardozi work
==Central Asia== Zardozi has also been present in Tajikistan and Uzbekistan since ancient times.<ref>{{cite news|lang=fr|title=À l'Institut du monde arabe, à Paris, l'Ouzbékistan et ses chemins brodés d'or|year=2022|url=https://www.lemonde.fr/culture/article/2022/11/23/a-l-institut-du-monde-arabe-a-paris-l-ouzbekistan-et-ses-chemins-brodes-d-or_6151187_3246.html}}</ref>
==References== {{reflist}}
==External links== * {{Commons category-inline|Zardozi}}
{{embroidery}} {{Clothing in South Asia}} {{Uzbek clothing}}
Category:Culture of Lucknow Category:Embroidery in India Category:Pakistani embroidery Category:Turkish embroidery Category:Azerbaijani embroidery Category:Kuwaiti embroidery Category:Iraqi embroidery Category:Persian embroidery Category:Persian handicrafts Category:Iranian clothing Category:Persian words and phrases Category:Economy of Lucknow Category:Culture of Tajikistan Category:Culture of Uzbekistan Category:Uzbek clothing