{{Short description|Medieval military hat}} [[File:Individuals wearing the Sharbush at the court of Badr ad-Din Lu'Lu' (1219 CE).jpg|thumb|Individuals in Turkic dress, wearing the ''Sharbush'' at the court of Badr al-Din Lu'Lu' (''Kitab al-Aghani'', 1219 CE)]] The '''''Sharbush''''' or '''''Harbush,''''' '''Sarposh, Serpush''' ({{langx|ar|شَربوش|sharbūsh}}, {{langx|el|σαρπούζιν}}, {{langx|tr|Serpuş}}) probably derived from the Persian word Sarpush,<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=ro--tXw_hxMC&q=sharbush&pg=PA891 E.J. Brill's First Encyclopaedia of Islam], 1913-1936. BRILL. p. 891. ISBN 9789004097940</ref> which means "headdress".<ref>{{Cite book |last=مجيد |first=رعد مطر |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=lK9TDwAAQBAJ&dq=%D8%B4%D8%B1%D8%A8%D9%88%D8%B4&pg=PA212 |title=أثر فنون عصر النهضة على التصوير الإسلامي : دراسة تاريخية تحليلية = Impact of the Renaissance Arts Age on Al Islamic Painting : Analytical Historical Study |date=2015-01-01 |publisher=Al Manhal |isbn=9796500168913 |pages=212 |language=ar}}</ref> was a special Turkic military furred hat worn in Central Asia and the Middle East in the Middle Ages. It appears prominently in the miniatures depicting Badr al-Din Lu'lu' (ruled 1234–1259).<ref name="DSR">{{cite journal |last1=Rice |first1=D. S. |title=The Aghānī Miniatures and Religious Painting in Islam |journal=The Burlington Magazine |date=1953 |volume=95 |issue=601 |pages=128–135 |url=http://warfare.tk/Turk/The_Aghani_Miniatures_and_Religious_Painting_in_Islam-D_S_Rice.htm |issn=0007-6287 |archive-date=2024-01-13 |access-date=2024-01-14 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240113160115/http://warfare.tk/Turk/The_Aghani_Miniatures_and_Religious_Painting_in_Islam-D_S_Rice.htm |url-status=dead }}</ref> It was a stiff cap of the military class, with a triangular front which was sometimes adorned with a metal plaque. It was sometimes supplemented with a small ''kerchief'' which formed a small turban, named ''takhfifa''.<ref>{{cite book|last=Yedida Kalfon Stillman, Norman A. Stillman|title=Arab Dress: A Short History : from the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times|year=2003|publisher=Brill|location=Leiden, Netherlands|pages=67|isbn=9789004113732|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=1MLfAAAAMAAJ |quote=The normal headgear of the military class was a stiff cap with a triangular front which in some instances appears to have been a metallic plaque. It was sometimes trimmed with fur and was called a sharbUsh (see PI. 23 which depicts a Saljuq atabeg wearing a sharbUsh and tiriiz qabii' and also PI. 19), and sometimes it had a small kerchief bound around it to form a sort of turban which was designated a takhfifa. The sharbush was absolutely de rigueur for an amir.}}</ref> The wearing of the ''Sharbūsh'' was one of the key graphical and sartorial elements to differentiate Turkic figures from Arab ones in medieval Middle-Eastern miniatures.<ref name="AC"/>
The ''Sharbush'' could vary in size and shape, sometimes taking huge proportions, as in the depiction of the emir in the frontispiece of the 1237 ''Maqamat of al-Hariri''.<ref name="AC"/> The shape of the ''sharbush'' seems to have varied depending on geographical regions: * The ''sharbush'' of Artuqid manuscripts (example) has a very tall cap behind the headplate and the usage of fur around the rim is limited;<ref name="RW77"/> * The Seljuk ''sharbush'' as seen on Persian ceramics, or on objects from Mosul such as the Blacas ewer, or in Jazira and Syria manuscripts had a much lower cap, almost hidden behind the band of fur surrounding the head and the frontal plate;<ref name="RW77"/> * The frontispiece of the Baghdad Schefer ''Maqamat'' shows another ''sharbush'', consisting of a tall mass of fur, hiding the cap from view.<ref name="RW77">{{cite journal |last1=Ward |first1=Rachel |title=Evidence for a School of Painting at the Artuqid Court |journal=Oxford Studies in Islamic Art |volume=1 |pages=69–83 [77] |date=1 January 1985 |url=https://www.academia.edu/42857318}}</ref>
%2C_in_the_Maqamat_of_al-Hariri%2C_1237_CE%2C_probably_Baghdad.jpg){kind=link}
.jpg){kind=link}
The ''sharbush'' headgear was a rallying sign for Saladin, and he wore it on his Mayyafariqin coinage.<ref name="DN">{{cite book |last1=Nicolle |first1=David |title=Saladin |date=20 December 2011 |publisher=Bloomsbury Publishing |isbn=978-1-84908-318-8 |page=26 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Ija3CwAAQBAJ&pg=PA26 |language=en |quote=This copper dirham, minted at Mayyafariqin in 587 AH (1190/01 AD) shows Saladin wearing the sharbush hat of a Saljuq-style Turkish ruler.}}</ref><ref name="PLB">{{cite book |last1=Lesley Baker |first1=Patricia |title=A History of Islamic Court Dress in the Middle East |date=1988 |doi=10.25501/SOAS.00033676 |publisher=SOAS, London University |page=119 |url=https://eprints.soas.ac.uk/33676/1/11010439.pdf |quote=By the end of the 12th century, the wearing of the sharbush demonstrated support for Salah al-Din. Under the later Bahri Mamluks of Egypt and Syria it formed part of the khil'a given to an amir on his investiture.}}</ref> When Henry II, Count of Champagne, king of Jerusalem, tried to build a friendly relationship with Saladin, he requested the gift of a ''qabā'' robe and a ''sharbūsh'' hat, which he wore in Acre.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Gabrieli |first1=Francesco |title=Arab Historians of the Crusades |publisher=University of California Press |page=242 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=GbL0S4ev07MC&pg=PA242 |language=en |quote=When the King of England left for home, Henry sent a messenger to Saladin to conciliate him and win his goodwill. He asked him for the gift of a robe of honor, and said: "You know that to put on the ''qabā'' and the ''sharbūsh'' is not approved among us, but I would put them on if they came from you, because of the regard I have for you." Saladin sent him sumtuous robes of honour, among them a qaba and a sharbush, and he wore them in Acre. }}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Mayer |first1=Leo Ary |title=Mamluk Costume: A Survey |date=1952 |publisher=A. Kundig |pages=27–28 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=OrffAAAAMAAJ |quote=Moreover, the wearing of the sharbish and qaba was considered so characeristic for a Saracenic amire that even a Crusader was prepared to don it in order to show some sort of friendship (if not allegiance) to Saladin.}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Kedar |first1=Benjamin Z. |last2=Phillips |first2=Jonathan |last3=Riley-Smith |first3=Jonathan |title=Crusades: Volume 4 |date=5 August 2016 |publisher=Taylor & Francis |isbn=978-1-351-98575-8 |page=87 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=0AoqDwAAQBAJ&pg=PA87 |language=en}}</ref>
The Sharbush was also a symbol of investitute under the Egyptian Mamluks, as it was part of the khil'a given to an amir on the occasion of his accession.<ref name="PLB"/> The ''sharbush'' was worn by high-ranking officers of the Ayyubid and Bahri Mamluk period.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Lesley Baker |first1=Patricia |title=A History of Islamic Court Dress in the Middle East |date=1988 |doi=10.25501/SOAS.00033676 |publisher=SOAS, London University |page=119 |url=https://eprints.soas.ac.uk/33676/1/11010439.pdf |quote=The texts mention that high-ranking military officers in the early Bahri period wore the sharbush, as in the Seljuk and Ayyubid periods.}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Dozy |first1=Reinhart Pieter Anne |last2=Nederlandsch instituut van wetenschappen |first2=letterkunde en schoone kunsten |title=Dictionnaire détaillé des noms des vêtements chez les Arabes; ouvrage couronné et publié par la Troisìeme classe de l'Institut royal des Pays-Bas |date=1845 |publisher=Amsterdam J. Müller |pages=220–224 |url=https://archive.org/details/dictionnairedt00dozyuoft/page/220/mode/2up}}</ref>
In Mamluk Egypt, the wearing of the ''Sharbush'' was banned in 1382.<ref name="Still">{{cite book|last=Yedida Kalfon Stillman, Norman A. Stillman|title=Arab Dress: A Short History : from the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times|year=2003|publisher=Brill|location=Leiden, Netherlands|pages=67|isbn=9789004113732|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=1MLfAAAAMAAJ}}</ref><ref>{{citation |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Tai42K--TpAC&pg=PA63 |title=An Entertaining Tale of Quadrupeds: Translation and Commentary |first1=Nick |last1=Nicholas |first2=George |last2=Baloglou |publisher=Columbia University Press |date=2003 |page=63 |isbn=9780231127608 }}</ref>
<gallery widths="200px" heights="200px" perrow="4"> File:Maqamat al-Hariri 1237, Turkic Emir portrait.jpg|Right frontispiece: ruler in Turkic dress (long braids, large ''Sharbush'' fur hat, boots, fitting coat), in the ''Maqamat of al-Hariri'', 1237 CE, probably Baghdad.<ref name="AC"/> File:Turkic guard in Preaching scene at Rayy in maqāma 21 (fols. 58v–59r, douvle-page spread as a unit), Maqamat al-Harari 1237.jpg|Turkic amir with guards, wearing the Turkic headgear ''Sharbush'', in the preaching scene at Rayy in maqāma 21 (fols. 58v–59r), ''Maqamat of al-Hariri'', 1237.{{sfn|Hillenbrand|2010|p=118, note 10}}<ref name="AC">{{cite book |last1=Contadini |first1=Anna |title=A world of beasts: a thirteenth-century illustrated Arabic book on animals (the Kitāb Na't al-Ḥayawān) in the Ibn Bakhtīshū' tradition |date=2012 |publisher=Brill |location=Leiden Boston |isbn=978-90-04-20100-2 |page=127 |quote=Reference has already been made to the combination of boots and ''sharbūsh'' as markers of official status (...) the combination is standard, even being reflected in thirteenth-century Coptic paintings, and serves to distinguish, in Grabar’s formulation, the world of the Turkish ruler and that of the Arab. (...) The type worn by the official figures in the 1237 Maqāmāt, depicted, for example, on fol. 59r,67 consists of a gold cap surmounted by a little round top and with fur trimming creating a triangular area at the front which either shows the gold cap or is a separate plaque. A particular imposing example in this manuscript is the massive ''sharbūsh'' with much more fur than usual that is worn by the princely official on the right frontispiece on fol. 1v.}}</ref> File:Warrior with the Plant Kestron, De Materia Medica of Dioscorides, Iraq 1224. Harvard Art Museums.jpg|Warrior in Turkic attire, wearing the Turkic headgear '''''sharbush''''', ''De Materia Medica'' of Dioscorides, Iraq, 1224. Harvard Art Museums.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Contadini |first1=Anna |title=A world of beasts: a thirteenth-century illustrated Arabic book on animals (the Kitāb Na't al-Ḥayawān) in the Ibn Bakhtīshū' tradition |date=2012 |publisher=Brill |location=Leiden Boston |isbn=978-90-04-20100-2 |page=127 |quote=Reference has already been made to the combination of boots and ''sharbūsh'' as markers of official status (...) the combination is standard, even being reflected in thirteenth-century Coptic paintings, and serves to distinguish, in Grabar’s formulation, the world of the Turkish ruler and that of the Arab. (...) The type worn by the official figures in the 1237 Maqāmāt, depicted, for example, on fol. 59r,67 consists of a gold cap surmounted by a little round top and with fur trimming creating a triangular area at the front which either shows the gold cap or is a separate plaque. A particular imposing example in this manuscript is the massive ''sharbūsh'' with much more fur than usual that is worn by the princely official on the right frontispiece on fol. 1v. (...) These are of yet another type and are identical to those on the official on the left holding a spear in the painting of the “Purple Betony” in the 1224 Dioscorides (Fig. 65b)}}</ref> File:Artuqid sharbush, 1206 (Ms. Ahmet III 3472).jpg|Artuqid sharbush, 1206 (Ms. Ahmet III 3472) File:Meister des Buches der Lieder 002.jpg|''Sharbush'' of Badr al-Din Lu'lu' (''Kitab al-Aghani'', 1219 CE) File:Maqamat Arabe 3929, Abu Zaid before the Cadi (sharbush detail) 157r.jpg|''Maqamat al-Hariri'' (BNF Arabe 3929, circa 1200-1210), Turkic ruler detail wearing the ''sharbūsh'' with the tall cap File:Maqamat 6094, folio 133v (detail).jpg|''Maqamat al-Hariri'' (BNF Arabe 6094), Jazira region, 1222 File:Armenian manuscript (1211).jpg|''Sharbush'' in an Armenian manuscript, Haghbat Gospels, 1211.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Eastmond |first1=Antony |title=Tamta's World: The Life and Encounters of a Medieval Noblewoman from the Middle East to Mongolia |date=2017 |doi=10.1017/9781316711774 |publisher=Cambridge University Press |isbn= 9781316711774}}</ref> File:Al-Nasir I Salah al-Din Yusuf (Saladin). AH 564-589 (1169-1193 CE) Æ Dirham (30.1mm, 13.28 g, 6h). Without mint-name. Dated AH 586 (AD 1190-91). Sultan sitting facing, cross-legged, on high-backed throne (obverse).jpg|Dirham in the name of Saladin, wearing the ''Sharbush''.<ref name="PLB"/><ref name="DN"/> Legend: "The Victorious King, Righteousness of the World and the Faith, Yusuf ibn Ayyub". Probable Mayyafariqin mint, dated 1190-1191.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Balog |title=The Coinage of the Ayyubids |date=1980 |publisher=Royal Numismatic Society |location=London |page=Coin 182}}, also Whelan Type III, 258-60; Album 791.4</ref><ref>For a similar coin at the British Museum minted in AH 586/1190 CE: {{cite web |title=Saladin coin British Museum |url=https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/C_1865-0804-40-X |website=www.britishmuseum.org |language=en}}, and another one also minted in 1190: 20x20px. Also [https://www.numisbids.com/n.php?p=lot&sid=5085&lot=548], [https://www.coinarchives.com/w/lotviewer.php?LotID=6582815&AucID=7626&Lot=1243&Val=d89ed4f58f834cadef373b4bbd223b6a]</ref> File:Donor figure wearing sharbush, qaba and tiraz. Church of the Archangels, Zemo-Krikhi, Racha, northern Georgia, Inv. No. 03086-75.jpg|Donor figure wearing ''sharbush'', ''qaba'' and ''tiraz''. Church of the Archangels, Zemo-Krikhi, Racha, northern Georgia. 11th century, Inv. No. 03086-75.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Flood |first1=Finbarr Barry |title=A Turk in the Dukhang? Comparative Perspectives on Elite Dress in Medieval Ladakh and the Caucasus |date=2017 |publisher=Austrian Academy of Science |page=253, Fig. 20 |url=https://www.academia.edu/35061254}}</ref> File:Ivane and Zakare, Harichavank.jpg|Armenian Princes Ivane and Zakare, 1201 </gallery>
==See also== * Saraquj * List of hat styles
==References== {{reflist}}
===Works cited=== * {{cite journal |last1=Hillenbrand |first1=Robert |title=The Schefer Ḥarīrī: A Study in Islamic Frontispiece Design |journal=Arab Painting |date=1 January 2010 |pages=117–134 |doi=10.1163/9789004236615_011 |isbn=978-90-04-23661-5 |url=https://doi.org/10.1163/9789004236615_011|url-access=subscription }}
{{Islamic manuscripts}}
Category:Middle Eastern clothing Category:History of Asian clothing Category:Turkish clothing