Sbai — Mediated Wiki

{{Short description|Silk or brocade wrap or shoulder cloth worn by women in Cambodia, Thailand, and Laos}} {{italic title}} {{about|the garment|people with the surname|Sbai (surname)|other uses|SBAI (disambiguation){{!}}SBAI}} {{pp-protected|small=yes}} {{Multiple issues| {{More citations needed|date=September 2019}} {{Original research|date=September 2019}} }} [[File:Large-5d6e38b2567c4.jpg|thumb|300px|right|The stucco relief discovered at the Khu Bua archaeological site, which dates back to the 650-700 C.E. period of the Dvaravati culture, depicts four female figures wearing shawl-like garments.]]

''''' Sbai ''''' ({{langx|km|ស្បៃ}} {{IPA|km|sɓaj|}}; {{langx|lo|ສະໄບ}} {{IPA|lo|sā.bàj|}}; Malay: ''Sebai''; Jawi: ''سباي''; {{langx|th|สไบ}}, {{RTGS|''sabai''}} {{IPA|th|sā.bāj|}}) or '''''phaa biang''''' ({{langx|lo|ຜ້າບ່ຽງ}} {{IPA|lo|pʰȁː bīaŋ|}}; {{langx|th|ผ้าเบี่ยง}} {{IPA|th|pʰâː bìaŋ|}}) is a shawl-like garment worn by women in Cambodia, Laos, and Thailand to cover the breasts, while in Sumatra, Borneo and the Malay Peninsula, the same term is used to describe a cloth hanging from the shoulders.<ref name="Maxwell">{{cite book|first1=Robyn J.|last1=Maxwell|first2=Mattiebelle|last2=Gittinger|title=Textiles of Southeast Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation|publisher=Periplus Editions|year=2003|isbn=9780794601041|url-access=registration|url=https://archive.org/details/textilesofsouthe0000maxw}}</ref>{{RP|410}} The ''sbai'' was derived from the Indian ''sari'', the end of which is worn over one shoulder.'''<ref name="Maxwell" />{{RP|153}} '''

== Etymology == The term ''sbai'' is the contracted form of vowels which has its ultimately original roots from the Austronesian term ''*cahebay'',<ref name="wolff.2010.2">Wolff, John U et al. (2010). ''Proto-Austronesian Phonology with Glossary Vol. II''. Ithaca, NY: Cornell Southeast Asia Program Publications. p. 838. {{ISBN|978-087727-533-6}}</ref><ref>Blust, Robert A., Pawley, Andrew, and Adelaar, K. Alexander. (2009). ''Austronesian Historical Linguistics and Culture History A Festschrift for Robert Blust''. Canberra: Pacific Linguistics, Research School of Pacific and Asian Studies, The Australian National University. p. 118. {{ISBN|978-085-8-83601-3}} "*cahebay 'hang'".</ref> which was diversified as the first exodus in Taiwan as the Formosan term ''*sapay''<ref name="wolff.2010.2"/><ref name="wolff.2010.1">Wolff, John U et al. (2010). ''Proto-Austronesian Phonology with Glossary Vol. I''. Ithaca, NY: Cornell Southeast Asia Program Publications. pp. 215, 217, 522. {{ISBN|978-087727-532-9}}</ref> from south China between 5,000–4,500 BCE, and the second exodus to the Philippines, Indonesia, and others occurred around 3,000–2,000 BCE.<ref>West, Barbara A. (2009). "Austronesians," ''Encyclopedia of the Peoples of Asia and Oceania''. New York, NY: Facts On File, Inc. pp. 64-65. {{ISBN|978-0-8160-7109-8}} {{LCCN|2008003055}}</ref>

Its vowel sequence was contracted from south China to the first exodus: ''*cahebay''{{arrow|right}}''*cahbay''{{arrow|right}}''*cahpay''{{arrow|right}}''*sapay'' (meaning: 'to hang').<ref name="wolff.2010.1"/> According to the Proto-Austronesian Phonology of Cornell University Southeast Asia Program (SEAP), there is the diversity of the term ''*cahebay'' or ''*sapay'' into subgroups of other languages families as follows:

* Austroasiatic languages: ''*lɓak'' (Dvaravati Old Mon and Nyah Kur),<ref>Diffloth, Gérard. (1984). ''The Dvaravati Old Mon language and Nyah Kur''. Bangkok: Chulalongkorn University Printing House. p. 166. {{ISBN|9789745637832}} :— "V42. '''*lɓak''' NyK: to wear (cloth) across the shoulder [v.tr]; /ne̫ec - /: cloth for bathing, wrapping around the head... Mon: to wear around the neck; (Ri): to hang (cloth) on shoulder, on a line, in order to dry…"</ref> ''cambāy'' (Middle Mon), ''*jbaay'' (Mon), ''*sapay''{{arrow|right}}''sĕbai'', ''sbai''{{arrow|right}}''sbāy'', ''spai''{{arrow|right}}''spiey'' or ''*sapay''{{arrow|right}}''spai''{{arrow|right}}''spiey'' (Old Khmer and Modern Khmer),<ref>Headley Robert K., Rath Chim, and Ok Soeum. (1997). ''Modern Cambodian-English Dictionary''. Kensington, MD: Dunwoody Press. p. 1,385. {{ISBN|978-093-1-74578-2}}</ref> ''phìai'' (Kuy). * Austronesian languages: ''*cahebay''{{arrow|right}}''łahpay'', ''cahfay'', ''cabfay''. (Proto-Austronesian).<ref name="wolff.2010.1"/> * Formosan languages: ''*sapay''{{arrow|right}}''sapai'' (Puyuma).<ref name="wolff.2010.2"/> * Indo-European languages: ''*səmpay'' (Sangsari).<ref name="wolff.2010.2"/> * Kra–Dai languages: ''*sapay''{{arrow|right}}''sĕbai'', ''sbai''{{arrow|right}}''sabai'', ''saphaay'' (Thai).<ref>Tumtavitikul, Apiluck. "[http://sealang.net/archives/mks/pdf/23:11-41.pdf Perhaps, the tons are in the consonants?]," ''Mon-Khmer Studies Journal'' (23)(1993): 32.</ref><ref>Charoensappapuech, Supat. (2020) [https://www.gotoknow.org/posts/678190 ‘สไบ’ คำเขมร ที่ (อาจ) ไม่เขมร] [Sabai, in which is not Khmer word] (in Thai). ''GotoKnow''. Retrieved on 10 November 2024.</ref> * Malayo-Polynesian languages: ''*sapay''{{arrow|right}}''sbai'',<ref>Shellabear, William Girdlestone. (1916). [https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/48/An_English-Malay_dictionary_%28IA_englishmalaydict00shelrich%29.pdf ''An English-Malay Dictionary'']. Singapore: Methodist Publishing House. p. 446.:— "Scarf (skarf), s. (round the neck) sapu-targan lehir, '''sbai''';* (round the waist) bngkorg; (over shoulder to carry children) ambin,* slendang." * Raffles, Thomas Stamford. (1817). "APPENDIX E. No. I. A Comparative Vocabulary of The Malàyu, Jàvan, Madurese, Bàli, and Lampùng Languages, arranged under the following heads, viz.," [https://archive.org/details/b22012382_0002/mode/2up ''The History of Java Volume II: With a Map and Plates'']. London: Cox and Bailey Limited. p. 97.:— "(ENGLISH) Linen robe or cloth, (MALÁYU) slindang; '''sbai''', (Jáva) kemben, (Bása kráma) kasemékan, (Súnda) karémbong, (Madúra) ..........., (Sumenáp) sa-ung-sa-ung, (BÁLI) tangkálong, (LAMPUNG) kakámban."</ref> ''sĕbai'',<ref>Wilkinson, Richard James. (1908). [https://archive.org/details/afu7967.0001.001.umich.edu/page/194/mode/2up ''An Abridged Malay-English Dictionary (Romanized)'']. Kuala Lumpur: The F.M.S. Government Press. p. 194.:— "sĕbai, a kind of scarf passing behind the neck and with the ends hanging down over the chest."</ref> ''sampai'' (Malay), ''sampai'' (Indonesian), ''sampay'', ''sampayán'' (Tagalog), ''sampe'' (Makassarese, Serayar), ''sambay'', ''sablay'' (Maranao), ''sumpáy'' (Ratahan), ''hafe-hafe'' (Tondarno), ''cave-'' (Filipinno), ''sappɛ'' (Buginese), ''sappɛ-sappɛ'' (Toba Batak), ''sampay-an'' (Ngaju), ''sampe-lao'' (Muna), ''sampi'', ''mi-sampy'', ''sampazana'' (Malagasy), ''sambay'' (Maranao).<ref name="wolff.2010.2"/> * Indo-European languages: ''spāy'' (unverified Sanskrit religious vocabulary as assumed by French.) from the Sanskrit of Khmer inscription on the Tāmrakumbha Indian brass water jug (K.669C Line 18) aged 972 CE at Preah Vihear.<ref>Soutif, Dominique and Estève, Julia. "TEXTS AND OBJECTS Exploiting the Literary Sources of Medieval Cambodia," in Hendrickson, Mitch; Stark, Miriam T.; and Evans, Damian. (2023). ''The Angkorian World''. London; New York, NY: Routledge. p. 31. {{ISBN|978-081-5-35595-3|978-135-1-12894-0}} {{doi|10.4324/9781351128940}}</ref> * Dravidian languages: ''calvai'', ''cālvai'', ''sālvai'', ''sâlvai'' (Tamil),<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.wisdomlib.org/definition/calvai|title=Calvai, Cālvai: 1 definition|website=www.wisdomlib.org}}</ref><ref>Spaulding, Levi; Hutchings, Samuel; Pillai, C. Appasamy; Knight, Joseph; Winslow, Miron (1888). ''English and Tamil Dictionary: For the Use of Students and Colleges''. (3rd ed.). Madras: Higginbotham and Co. p. 1,211.</ref> from Modern Persian ''šāl''<ref>Corriente, Federico (2008). ''Dictionary of Arabic and Allied Loanwords: Spanish, Portuguese Catalan, Galician and Kindred Dialects''. Leiden: Koninklijke Brill NV. p. 259. {{ISBN|9789004168589}}</ref> or Urdu and Persian ''chal'', ''shal'', ''shàl''.<ref>Multiple sources: * University of Madras (1986). ''Annals of Oriental Research [Journal of Oriental Research of the University of Madras]'', 32: 145. "cālvai < P. Shal 'shawl'" * University of Madras (1928). ''[https://archive.org/details/rbanms.3867.tamillexiconvoli0000unse/page/n117/mode/2up Tamil Lexicon Vol. III. Part II]''. Mylapore: The Madras Law Journal Press. p. 1,389. * Lafayette, Maximillien de (2018). ''Etymology, Philology And Comparative Dictionary Of Synonyms In 22 Dead And Ancient Languages Vol. III: C-D (Cabbut- Dyutho) From A Set Of 6 Volumes: Origin And History Of Words And Dialects, Akkadian, ... [sic] ... , Urdu''. (3rd ed.). New York, NY: Times Square Press. p. 92.</ref>

== History == Sbai is derived from the Indian sari, which may have been introduced to Southeast Asia through the Indianized Kingdoms, the most notable being Funan, Srivijaya, and the Khmer Empire, which spread clothing and other traditions and elements of Indian culture.<ref name="Maxwell" />{{RP|153}}

=== Cambodia === {{Multiple image | align = left | direction = horizontal | header = | width1 = 205 | image1 = Angkor_Wat_Level_A1_Inside_101_100_099_Kent_Davis.jpg | caption1 = Khmer traditional clothing: 12th century Khmer ''devatas'' wrapping ''sbais'' attached to their ''sampots'', Angkor Wat | width2 = 222 | image2 = Khmer_Long_Sbai_(cropped).jpg | caption2 = Khmer traditional clothing: newer 16th century bas-relief of Theravada Buddhist (not Hindu) Khmer women in long ''sbai'', Angkor Wat. }} [[File:Emile-gsell-femme-cambodgienne_6bdedb30b60ea637ce9ff325e1b1c91e.webp|190px|right|thumb|Khmer traditional clothing: ''Neang'' Sok in a ''sbai'' & ''sampot'', 1860s Gsell.]] In Khmer, the ''sbai'' (ស្បៃ) refers to an asymmetrical breast-sash, usually embroidered and of silk, worn for ballet performances and ceremonies.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Berthon |first1=Magali An |title=100 Fashion and Textile Terms in Khmer, English, and French|date=2025|pages=110 |url=https://cdnc.heyzine.com/files/uploaded/v3/f291ee6df7f14bb4918ee849caf20598817a34a3.pdf}}</ref> Chinese chronicles relay from the founding legend of Neang Neak and Preah Thong that the latter wasn't happy with Neang Neak's nude state and so he "folded a piece of material to make a garment through which he had her pass her head."<ref>{{cite book |last1=Yung Wai-Chuen |first1=Peter |title=Angkor: The Khmers in Ancient Chinese Annals |date=2000 |publisher=Oxford University Press |isbn=9780195920093 |page=10}}</ref> Scholar and ballet teacher Prumsodun Ok<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.brandeis.edu/compact/programs/global-community-engagement/2023-2024/cambodia/prum-ok.html|title=Global Community Engagement presents Prumsodun Ok in "A Deepest Blue"|website=www.brandeis.edu/|year=2024|author=Brandeis University}}</ref> writes that even today this describes how one wears an already-sewn ''sbai'' as opposed to sewing the material onto the wearer.<ref name="academia.edu">{{cite book |last1=Ok |first1=Prumsodun |title=The Serpent's Tail: A Brief History of Khmer Classical Dance |date=2018|pages=72|url=https://www.academia.edu/36957739/THE_SERPENTS_TAIL_A_BRIEF_HISTORY_OF_KHMER_CLASSICAL_DANCE}}</ref> [[File:Khmer_clothes_Khmer_traditional_clothing_Cambodian_clothes_Cambodian_traditional_clothing_Khmer_sbai_Cambodian_sbai_Khmer_people_Cambodian_people.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Khmer traditional clothing: ''sbai'' patterned in ancient Khmer diamond-floral ''chakkachan'' ''kbach'' & ''samloy robab'' in ''sampot sarobap ka'at kbal neak'' or "sampot folded like the head of a naga".]] The ''sbai'' is used in traditional Khmer weddings during the rite of {{lang|km|Preah Thong Taong Sbai Neang Neak}} ("Preah Thong holding on to the ''sbai'' of Neang Neak"), which represents the legend of the foundation of the Khmer people: groom carries the bride's ''sbai'' from behind for a ritualistic walk to "symbolize their entering into her ''naga'' realm."<ref>{{cite book |last1=Giordano |first1=John T. |title=The Marriage of Preah Thong and Neang Neak: On Cultural Memory, Universalism and Eclecticism|date=2022|pages=60 |url=https://philarchive.org/archive/GIOTMO-4}}</ref> At Angkor Wat, there are 12th century depictions of topless devatas (Khmer: ''tevoda'' ទេវតា) holding a ''sbai'' connected to their ''sampot'',<ref>{{cite book |last1=Ok |first1=Prumsodun |title=The Serpent's Tail: A Brief History of Khmer Classical Dance |date=2018 |pages=72, 73|url=https://www.academia.edu/36957739/THE_SERPENTS_TAIL_A_BRIEF_HISTORY_OF_KHMER_CLASSICAL_DANCE}}</ref> while the northern wall of Angkor Wat depicts a 16th-century group of Theravada Buddhist ladies wearing long ''sbai'' while holding various offerings.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Ok |first1=Prumsodun |title=The Serpent's Tail: A Brief History of Khmer Classical Dance |date=2018 |pages=53|url=https://www.academia.edu/36957739/THE_SERPENTS_TAIL_A_BRIEF_HISTORY_OF_KHMER_CLASSICAL_DANCE}}</ref> {{multiple image | align =  | total_width = 410 | image1 = Style of Sbai.png | alt1 = | caption1 = Different types of Khmer (Cambodian) ''sbai'' | image2 = Khmer Traditional Costume.jpg | alt2 = | caption2 = Khmer woman in ''sbai'' and ''chong kben.'' | header = | header_align =  | header_background = | footer = | footer_align =  | footer_background = | background color = }} For men, especially Brahmin and Buddhist monk, the ''sbai'' called ''sbong sbai trai chivor,''<ref name=":5">{{Cite web|url=https://www.rfa.org/khmer/program/religion/unique-colors-of-buddhist-monks-robes-01212015031540.html|title=លក្ខណៈពិសេសនៃពណ៌ស្បង់ចីវររបស់ព្រះសង្ឃពុទ្ធសាសនា|date=2015-01-21|website=Radio Free Asia|language=km|access-date=2019-09-07}}</ref> and is considered the robe of Hindu and Buddhist monks.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.wisdomlib.org/definition/civara|title=Civara, aka: Cīvara; 10 Definition(s)|date=2009-04-11|website=Wisdom Library|access-date=2019-09-07}}</ref> For women, ''sbai'' can be freely used and in different ways such as to wrapping it around the body, covering the shoulder, and commonly covering the breast and stomach over the left shoulder.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Ok |first1=Prumsodun |title=The Serpent's Tail: A Brief History of Khmer Classical Dance |date=2018|pages=72|url=https://www.academia.edu/36957739/THE_SERPENTS_TAIL_A_BRIEF_HISTORY_OF_KHMER_CLASSICAL_DANCE}}</ref> Prumsodun Ok on etymology: {{Blockquote|...Monosyllable Khmer loan words become bi‑syllable in Thai with ''phka'' (flower) to ''phaka'', ''spean'' (bridge) to ''sapan'', and ''sbai'' to ''sabai''. Ancient Khmers also referred to this garment in Sanskrit terms such as ''kapata'' and ''uttarasanga''.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Ok |first1=Prumsodun |title=The Serpent's Tail: A Brief History of Khmer Classical Dance|date=2018 |pages=72|url=https://www.academia.edu/36957739/THE_SERPENTS_TAIL_A_BRIEF_HISTORY_OF_KHMER_CLASSICAL_DANCE}}</ref>}}

In a village called Sampan Leu in the Sa’ang District of Kandal province, ''sbai'' embroidery is a tradition passed down over generations for some 40 families, and the commune chief says the practice goes back to ancient times for some villages. Villagers from teenagers to 60 year olds participate in the process. The designs themselves are decided by customers and the "predefined patterns" are passed on to the embroiderers. Pieces are often rented by those visiting Angkor Wat, for festivals, and also weddings, and material is not limited to silk. The in-demand ''sbais'' are crafted with authentic, traditional Khmer patterns by the artisans with the goal of preserving Khmer culture.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.phnompenhpost.com/national/crafting-identity-sbai-s-modern-tradition|title=Crafting identity: Sbai’s modern tradition|website=phnompenhpost.com/|year=2023|author=Kim Sarom}}</ref>

=== Laos === thumb|Lao women wearing colorful ''sabai'' or ''phaa biang'' in traditional dance In Laos, this garment is known as '''''phaa biang''''' or sabai. The textile may bear a hybrid "dragon/serpent and ancient ship" image.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Maxwell |first1=Robyn J|title=Textiles of Southeast Asia : tradition, trade, and transformation|date=2003|pages=281|url=https://archive.org/details/textilesofsouthe0000maxw/page/280/mode/2up}}</ref> It is common for Lao women to wear ''sabai'' as it is considered traditional clothing. A ''sabai'' can also be worn by men in weddings or when attending religious ceremonies. The type of ''sabai'' typically worn by Lao men often has checkered patterns. ''Sabai'' can also be a long piece of silk, about a foot wide, that is draped diagonally over the chest covering one shoulder with one end dropping behind the back.<ref>Bonnie Ghazarbekian, Jane Siegel, ''Sawaddi, 15 years'', p.130.</ref>

=== Malaysia === In Malaysia, Sebai is a cloth wrapped around the neck to cover the shoulders with both ends hanging on the chest similar to a scarf hung over the shoulders.<ref name="DBP-Sebai">{{Cite web|url=https://prpm.dbp.gov.my/cari1?keyword=sebai|title=Carian Umum - Sebai|website=prpm.dbp.gov.my|language=ms|access-date=2020-11-15}}</ref>

=== Myanmar === [[File:20200206 150859 Mon Girls in Mawlamyaing Myanmar anagoria.JPG|right|thumb|Mon women wearing traditional clothes in Mon State, Myanmar]]

The ethnic Mon is also known to have similar tradition of wearing the shawl-like ''sabai'' called '''''yat toot''''' in Mon language, diagonally over the chest covering one shoulder with one end dropping behind the back like that worn by Lao women. This tradition distinguished them from other ethnic groups in Myanmar. The Mon people of Myanmar and Thailand today were the descendants of various Indianized polities, notably Dvaravati. Artifacts from Dvaravati sites in what is now Thailand depicted a group of ladies wearing what is similar to ''sabai''.

=== Thailand === [[File:Silk Loom Jim Thompson House photo D Ramey Logan.jpg|thumb|Thai women wearing ''sabai'' at Jim Thompson House]] Artifacts found in ethnic Mon Dvaravati sites depict group of ladies wearing what is similar to ''sabai''. '''''Sabai''''' ({{langx|th|สไบ}}, {{RTGS|''sabai''}}, {{IPA|th|sābāj|pron}}) or pha biang ({{langx|th|ผ้าเบี่ยง}} {{IPA|th|pʰâː.bìaŋ|pron}}) is shawl-like garment, or breast cloth. Sabais can be used by women or men. The sabai is also known as a long piece of silk, about a foot wide, draped diagonally around the chest by covering one shoulder which its end drops behind the back. Sabais could be worn around the naked chest or on top of another cloth. The practice of wearing Sabai along with Victorian cloth was a common practice during the reign of King Chulalongkorn and lasted until the reign of King Vajiravudh when Westernized clothing became more fashionable.

==Gallery== <gallery perrow="5"> File:Ang Mei, Queen of Cambodia.jpeg|Khmer (Cambodian) Queen Ang Mey and her daughters wearing ''sbai'' in the 1800s File:Siamese lady of title, wife of Prime Minister, Bangkok, Siam Wellcome L0055546.jpg|Lady Pun Bunnag, Somdet Chaophraya Borom Maha Sri Suriwongse's wife wearing ''pha biang'', 1866 File:Siamese girl (NYPL Hades-2359944-4044709).jpg|Siamese girl wearing ''pha biang'', 1921 File:Daughters of Rama II III Inner Court Dress Rattanakosin Era.png|Daughters of King Rama II and King Rama III wearing ''pha biang'' in the 1800s File:Royal Clothing of Queen Debsirindra c1855.jpg|Queen Debsirindra wearing ''pha biang'', 1855 File:Ban Khung Taphao05.jpg|Thai children wearing pha nung and ''pha biang'' File:Cambodian couple.jpg|Cambodian bride wearing a ''sbai'' in a wedding ceremony File:Cambodian American Dance (22662834390).jpg|Cambodian American dancer wearing ''sbai'' </gallery>

==References== {{reflist}}

==External links== {{commons category-inline}}

Category:Shawls and wraps Category:Cambodian clothing Category:Folk costumes Category:Laotian clothing Category:Malay clothing Category:Thai clothing Category:History of Asian clothing