Salwar

{{short description|Traditional loose trousers worn in South Asia}} {{About||the combined suit|Shalwar kameez|the Turkish form|Turkish salvar}} {{Cleanup lang|article|date=August 2021}} {{Infobox clothing type | name = Salwar | image_file = Salwar Suit.jpg | image_size = 150 | caption = Woman wearing a traditional Punjabi salwar | type = | material = {{Collapsible list | title= Materials | bullets = on | Cotton | Polyester | Wool | Linen | Denim | Nylon | Rayon | Spandex | Viscose | Elastane | Silk | Corduroy | Twill | Gabardine | Flannel | Velvet | Hemp | Georgette | Chiffon | Crepe | Satin }} | location = Central Asia | manufacturer = Various | url = }}

'''Salwar''' or '''shalwar''' is cloth worn from the waist to the ankles, covering both legs separately. It is the lower-garment of the shalwar kameez suit which is widely-worn in South Asia. It is known for its lively hues, rich fabrics, and embroidery.<ref>[http://www.tribuneindia.com/2000/20000527/windows/main1.htm The Tribune Pran Nevile 27 May 2000]</ref><ref>Lois May Burger (1963) A Study of Change in Dress as Related to Social and Political Conditions in an Area of North India [https://books.google.com/books?id=CGFBAAAAYAAJ&q=+punjabi+lokh]</ref><ref>Textiles, Costumes, and Ornaments of the Western Himalaya by Omacanda Hāṇḍā [https://books.google.com/books?id=JFPnh9B5zncC&q=punjabi&pg=PA278]</ref> The outfit has been a part of Punjabi tradition of India and Pakistan for centuries.<ref>[http://revenueharyana.gov.in/html/gazeteers/karnal%20Gazeetter%201892.pdf 1892 Punjab Gazeetter] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140501200322/http://revenueharyana.gov.in/html/gazeteers/karnal%20Gazeetter%201892.pdf |date=2014-05-01 }}</ref><ref>Kumar, Raj (2008) Encyclopaedia of Untouchables Ancient, Medieval and Modern [https://books.google.com/books?id=e8o5HyC0-FUC&dq=suthan+punjab&pg=PA51]</ref> It is also the national dress of Pakistan,<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=PvoMAQAAIAAJ&q=purely Basic facts about Pakistan, Issue 5 (1950)]</ref><ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=l5Sb4e4cL7gC&dq=pakistan+national+dress+punjabi+suit&pg=PA386 Nelson,Lise . Seager,Joni (2008) A Companion to Feminist Geography]</ref> and since the later 1960s, the salwar is being used in government offices in Pakistan.<ref>Qadeer. Mohammad (2006) Pakistan - Social and Cultural Transformations in a Muslim Nation [https://books.google.com/books?id=ll02P7G5XD8C&q=punjabi+shalwar&pg=PA69]</ref> Salwar can be distinguished from the Punjabi suthan which is shorter than the salwar. {{Islamic culture}}

== Types == * Afghani shalwar – tends to be loose. * Anarkali shalwar – slim fitted salwar. * Peshawari shalwar – is very loose down to the ankles. * Balochi shalwar – has a very roomy salwar using large lengths of cloth. * Punjabi shalwar – is straight * Patiala shalwar – is wide at the top but fits closely to the legs and is gathered at the ankles. * Saraiki shalwar – is very wide and baggy with many voluminous folds. * Sindhi salwar – is less plaited at the waist. * Sindhi kancha – has long pancha (cuffs) at ankles.

== History == === Early history === Shalwar is a lower garment, with different regions having different types. The earliest form of the shalwar originated in Central Asia and its use was spread to South Asia as well as the Arab world, Turkey and wherever the Turks established their empires in the 12th century.<ref>{{Cite web|title=HISTORY OF SALWAR KAMEEZ|url=http://szhaider.fashion.20m.com/whats_new.html|access-date=2021-05-09|website=szhaider.fashion.20m.com}}</ref><ref>Jirousek, Charlotte. "Islamic Clothing." In Encyclopedia of Islam. New York: Macmillan Pub. 2005.</ref> The Ottomans spread the use of the salwar throughout its empire.<ref>Annette Lynch, Mitchell D. Strauss (2014) [https://books.google.com/books?id=tiEvBQAAQBAJ&pg=PA142 Ethnic Dress in the United States: A Cultural Encyclopedia]</ref> Salwar was brought in South Asia after the arrival of Muslims in the 13th century. It was first worn by Mughal nobles.

In Punjab, there is a similar but older dress similar to the salwar known as suthan.<ref>Dr Singh, Daljit (2004) Punjab Socio-Economic Condition (1501-1700 A.D.) [https://books.google.com/books?id=6-jZAAAAMAAJ]</ref> The Punjabi suthan suit which is made up of the head scarf, kurta/kurti and Punjabi suthan.<ref name="autogenerated5">Sidhu Brard, Gurnam Singh (2007) East of Indus: My Memories of Old Punjab [https://books.google.com/books?id=UUdYFH9skIkC&dq=punjab+sutthan&pg=PA331]</ref> There are also the Jammu dress and the churidar. The term ''salwar kameez'' also includes the Kashmiri Phiran/suthan outfit.

In the Punjab region, the salwar was made using a large amount of material but had no pleats or folds. The large salwar eventually gave rise to the Punjabi salwar.<ref name="autogenerated2">Paintings and Lifestyles of Jammu Region: From 17th to 19th Century A.D Raj Kumar [https://books.google.com/books?id=f-1XyQ2eIG8C&pg=PA352]</ref>

===Punjabi salwar=== In its strictest sense, the salwar is baggy and loose straight down the legs, and gathered loosely at the ankles. During the medieval period, people adopted the Iraqi style of salwar in Multan and neighbouring Sindh.<ref name="autogenerated1">Kumar, Raj (2008) Encyclopaedia of Untouchables Ancient, Medieval and Modern [https://books.google.com/books?id=e8o5HyC0-FUC&dq=sindh+kurta+dress+medieval+times&pg=PA239]</ref><ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=6xMNAAAAIAAJ&q=salwar+iraq+sindh+makran Said,Hakim Mohammad (1990) Road to Pakistan. 1. 712 - 1858]</ref> This type of salwar is traditionally very baggy and gathered at the ankles. It is still worn by the Kurdish community in Iraq. The presence of the baggy salwar was noted by Alberuni in the 11th century A.D.<ref name="autogenerated1"/> and continued to be envogue between the 16th and 18th centuries C.E. in Multan<ref>Dasti, Humaira Faiz (1998) Multan, a province of the Mughal Empire, 1525-1751 [https://books.google.com/books?id=kH3jAAAAMAAJ&q=+shalwar]</ref>

The Multani salwar is similar to the loose Punjabi suthan. Therefore, the distinction between the loose Punjabi suthan and the loose Multani salwar is fine and centres on the tight ankle band in the suthan, and on the suthan beginning to fit closer to the legs below the knees.

The original Punjabi loose salwar was not as baggy as the Multani style but was wide, with the gathering at the ankles being wide enough to cover the feet. Originally, up to ten yards of cloth was used to make Punjabi salwars.<ref>Yarwood, Doreen (2011) [https://books.google.com/books?id=UdP_sSKIxf0C&dq=salwar+punjab++afghan&pg=PA243 Illustrated Encyclopedia of World Costume]</ref> The original Punjabi salwar was also not as baggy as other forms of the salwar, such as the type worn in Afghanistan (partug), the Balochi salwar,<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=P8JFAQAAIAAJ&q=discarded Punjab district gazetteers, Volume 7, Part 1 (1923)]</ref> or the loose Punjabi suthan, and gathers more quickly below the knees and ends in a tight band. Eventually the modern Punjabi salwar came into being which is slim fitting and does not have wide ends as before.

Another style of salwar is the Pothohari salwar of the Pothohar area of the Punjab region.<ref name="Mohinder Singh Randhawa 1960">Mohinder Singh Randhawa. (1960) Punjab: Itihas, Kala, Sahit, te Sabiachar aad.Bhasha Vibhag, Punjab, Patiala.</ref> The Pothohari salwar retains the wideness of the Punjabi suthan. The kameez is also wide. The chunni is a remnant of the large chadar popular in West Punjab known as salari<ref>Kehal, Harkesh Singh (2011) Alop ho riha Punjabi virsa Lokgeet Parkashan {{ISBN|978-93-5017-532-3}}</ref> and the large Phulkari worn in various areas of the Punjab region. However, the Pothohari salwar suit did not attain universal acceptance. The Bahawalpuri salwar is also wide and baggy<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=28RCAQAAMAAJ&q=wide+trousers Current Opinion, Volume 25 (1899)]</ref> with many folds. The material traditionally used for the Bahawalpuri shalwar and suthan is known as Sufi, which is a mixture of cotton warp mixed with silk weft and gold threads running down the material.<ref>Extracts from the District & States Gazetteers of the Punjab, Pakistan, Volume 2 (1976) [https://books.google.com/books?id=2RluAAAAMAAJ&q=sufi]</ref><ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=wgEwAQAAIAAJ&q=bahawalpur+shalwar The Pakistan gazetteer, Volume 5 (2000)]</ref> <gallery widths=180> File:Nawab Muhammad Of Bawalpur 1868-1900.JPG|Nawab Muhammad Of Bahawalpur (1868–1900) wearing a loose Bahawalpuri salwar File:Prince Suba Sadiq Abbasi.JPG|Prince Suba Sadiq Abbasi, Bahawalpur </gallery>

===Punjabi kameez=== The Punjabi Kameez is a traditional outfit worn by both men and women in the Punjab region of South Asia, which includes parts of India and Pakistan. It consists of a long tunic or shirt, typically with long sleeves and a loose fit, paired with loose-fitting pants called salwar. The outfit is often accompanied by a scarf or stole, known as a dupatta, which is draped over the head or shoulders. The Punjabi Kameez is known for its vibrant colors, intricate embroidery, and rich fabrics, which vary depending on the occasion and the wearer's social status. It is a popular and versatile garment that can be worn for both casual and formal occasions, and has gained popularity worldwide due to its comfort and style.

==== Female dress: Punjabi salwar suit ==== The Punjabi salwar suit is worn in the Punjab in India and Pakistan. It consists of the {{Transliteration|pa|chunni}} (head scarf), {{Transliteration|pa|jhagga}} (kameez) and the salwar when worn by women. The {{Transliteration|pa|chunni}} can be of varying lengths. The {{Transliteration|pa|jhagga}} ({{Transliteration|pa|kameez}}) is made up of two rectangular pieces sewn together with side slits, similar to a tunic. A ''kurta'' is also worn.

The salwar is similar to pajamas or pants, wide at the top and tightened loosely around the ankles with hard material, called {{Transliteration|pa|paunchay}}. In the Punjab, the salwar kameez is also known as the chunni jhagga salwar suit. <gallery widths="180"> File:MissPooja2.jpg|Punjabi suit File:Garba - graceful flow of colours.jpg|Girls in Punjabi suits File:Women of Puducherry.jpg|South Indian Women in Punjabi suits File:Rohi's Women Dress - Bahawalpur Museum.jpg|Rohi (Cholistan) woman's bandhani dress (Punjab, Pakistan) File:Dance, Attari-Wagah, Punjab (10691014775).jpg|Dance, Attari-Wagah, women wearing Punjabi suits </gallery>

==== Male Dress: Punjabi salwar suit ==== In some parts of the Punjab region, especially the urban areas of Punjab, Pakistan,<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=GQTABKAGaVgC&q=chaadar&pg=PA119 Malik, Iftikhar Haider (2006) Culture and Customs of Pakistan]</ref> males wear the men's Punjabi suit. The upper garment is made of the straight cut kurta/kameez and the salwar resembles a slim fit pajama. In the past, the suthan was also commonly worn by men,<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=OeU2AQAAMAAJ&q=punjabi++suthan Punjab District and State Gazetteers: Part A (1911)]</ref><ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=R6EIAAAAQAAJ&q=suthan+punjabi Land revenue settlement reports 1876]</ref> a trend which can still be seen in some parts of the region (especially Jammu and Himachal Pradesh). <gallery widths=180> File:Shalvaar qamiz.JPG|Men's Punjabi salwar suit File:Punjabi kurta Ferozepur 1845.jpg|Punjabi kurta Ferozepur 1845 </gallery>

=== Jhagga === The Ghaznavid Turks popularised the salwar/tunic attire in Afghanistan.<ref>Jirousek, Charlotte. "Islamic Clothing." In Encyclopedia of Islam. New York: Macmillan Pub. (2004)[https://char.txa.cornell.edu/islamicclothes.htm]</ref><ref>Flood, Finbarr Barry (2009) Objects of Translation: Material Culture and Medieval "Hindu-Muslim" Encounter [https://books.google.com/books?id=OLNE_li8C10C&q=trousers&pg=PA64]</ref>

===Kashmir region=== The use of the suthan or the salwar has been adopted in other areas. People in Jammu have changed the traditional attire from the peshwaj (flowing to the ankles) <ref>Textiles, Costumes and Ornaments of the Western Himalayas O Handa</ref> to the kurta and Dogri suthan. The Phiran is worn in Kashmir<ref>Paintings and lifestyles of Jammu Region: 17th to 19th Century A.D Raj Kumar</ref> traditionally flowed to the ankles, is now of varying lengths and is worn with a loose suthan. Kashyap Bandhu is regarded as the person responsible for spreading the use of the suthan with the phiran amongst the communities that resisted to adopt its use, eventually leading to the use of the salwar.<ref>Cultural Heritage of India- Kashmiri Pandit Contribution. The Publication of Kashmir Sabha, Calcutta (1999-2000) [http://koausa.org/vitasta/pdf/Vitasta1999-2000.pdf] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304120501/http://koausa.org/vitasta/pdf/Vitasta1999-2000.pdf|date=2016-03-04}}</ref> However, the traditional Kashmiri suthan is loose, similar to the styles worn in Afghanistan<ref>Asoke Kumar Bhattacharyya, Pradip Kumar Sengupta Foundations of Indian Musicology: Perspectives in the Philosophy of Art and Culture (1991) [https://books.google.com/books?id=8EJw6O4VFFsC&q=pheran&pg=PA110]</ref> with some wearing styles similar to the Dogri suthan. The Punjabi salwar suit has also become popular.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=PwM7AAAAMAAJ&q=shalwar+kameez Dhar, Somnath (1986) Jammu and Kashmir folklore]</ref>

Elsewhere in India and Pakistan, Muslim communities have traditionally worn the style of salwar worn by the Mughals combining them with Mughal upper garments such as the jamma. However, the salwar is now worn by members of various communities in India and Pakistan.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=iY4bVR9--XAC&dq=punjab+kurta+history&pg=PA141 Subba, J.R (2008) History, Culture and Customs of Sikkim]</ref>

=== Sindh === In Sindh, Shalwar Kameez or (Suthan ain Khamis) in Sindhi worn by men are of two types, one is worn usually in lower/south of Sindh which has wider ankles and does not get narrow at ankles this type of Shalwar is called (Kancha), other has narrow ankles worn mostly in upper/north of Sindh and is called (Suthan/Salwar), both has very less pleats, the Khamis is also made of different styles, traditionally Sindhi men used to wear either short or long Angrakho which is tied at either side or in middle, the shorter one was called Angelo, other style was called Kiriyo/Puthiyo, then the short Kurtas called (Pehrān/Pehriyān) were commonly worn, which used to be collarless like Angrakho and was tied at either side or in middle, and had half way slit opening in front unlike angrakhas which used to be completely slit in front. The Pehrān/Pehriyān were also used to be embroidered with Sindhi bhart and mirrorwork. Above Angelo and Pehrān men also wore (Koti, Sadri, Gidi). During British Raj, the colllars were introduced in Sindh, the Sindhi men started wearing Pehran with collars and buttons, also during that time the English long coats and jackets were introduced. The upper garment of Sindhi men was mostly short either till waist or till midway to thighs, except for some men, but today the modern Khamis reaches at least till knees, the modern Khamis can have (Gol daman) round cut at end corners or (Chokor Daman) square cut, this is now an everyday clothing of Sindhi men. The clothes are adorned with Ajrak and topi or Patko (Turbans), but usually on everyday life, a various colored floral or checkered piece of cloth on shoulder or as turban, also used as a handkerchief, and for the protection from the heat of sun.

Women in Sindh wear Salwar/Suthan which is almost similar to men, but back in time some women of lower Sindh used to wear a very baggy Salwars called "Chareno" but these are not normally worn now. Many Sindhi women also wore churidar pajamo (Sohri Suthan). Traditional Sindhi women Suthan and Pajamo are made of bright colors and rich fabrics like soosi, silk, satin, velvets and brocades which are heavily embroidered at ankles (Pācha). The Salwars are worn with the Cholo (kameez) or Ghagho (frock) which are also heavily intricately embroidered with Sindhi bhart and other embellishments called Gaj, Aggoti, Gichi, back in time the Salwars were sometimes used to be hidden under a wide Paro/Peshgeer (Skirt), specially when a woman went outside and over the head women wore a wide and long veils called Rawo/Gandhi/Pothi/Chuni/Salur.<ref>I am a Sindhi: The Glorious Sindhi Heritage and Culture and Folklore of Sindh J P Vaswami</ref><ref>Sindh and The Races That Inhabit the Valley of the Indus Richard F Burton</ref>

=== Bangladesh === The traditional male dress in Bangladesh is the lungi and Panjabi. Men also wear a shirt called Kaabli. The traditional female dress is the sari but women also wear the Salwar Kameez.

=== Afghanistan === The salwar is a traditional garment in Afghanistan worn by men as the Khet partug outfit. The Khet is the tunic, similar to a robe and the partoog is the Afghanistan salwar, with multiple pleats. The male dress also includes the perahan tunban. The Pathani suit <ref>{{cite web|title=Celebrating Indianness|url=http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/life-style/fashion/designers/Celebrating-Indianness/articleshow/7792864.cms?referral=PM|work=.indiatimes.com|access-date=27 March 2014|date=Mar 27, 2011}}</ref> has become popular since the 1990s.<ref>{{cite web|title=Perahan Tunban 'Mens clothes'|url=http://www.afghanistan-culture.com/perahan-tunban.html|work=afghanistan-culture.com|access-date=27 March 2014|archive-date=3 December 2013|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131203053930/http://www.afghanistan-culture.com/perahan-tunban.html|url-status=dead}}</ref><ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=bY8ck6iktikC&dq=afghan+sikh+culture&pg=PA151 Culture and Customs of Afghanistan By Hafizullah Emadi ]</ref> The female Punjabi suit is also popular in Afghanistan which is called the Panjabi.<ref>[http://missbspage.weebly.com/uploads/1/3/9/8/13980362/afghanistan_clothing.pdf Afghanistan clothing]</ref><ref>Pia Karlsson, Amir Mansory (2007) An Afghan dilemma: education, gender and globalisation in an Islamic context [https://books.google.com/books?id=RGElAQAAIAAJ&q=+punjabi+]</ref>

==Punjabi suthan and kurta suit== The outfit predates the salwar suit but is complementary to it.

===Etymology=== The word ''suthan'' is derived from the Sanskrit word ''svasthana'',<ref name="autogenerated2"/> which means tight fitting trousers. This, in turn, derives from the Central Asian word ''samstamni''.<ref name="autogenerated3">Archaeological Congress and Seminar Papers: Papers Presented at the 4th Annual Congress of the Indian Archaeological Society and the Seminars Held at Nagpur on the 10th, 11th, and 12th Nov. 1970, Volume 4, Part 1970 [https://books.google.com/books?id=_xJuAAAAMAAJ]</ref><ref>Subbarayappa, B. V. Indo-Soviet Seminar on Scientific and Technological Exchanges Between India and Soviet Central Asia in Medieval Period, Bombay, November 7–12, 1981: Proceedings [https://books.google.com/books?id=IerQAAAAMAAJ]</ref> The suthan are trousers cut straight and tight, as opposed to the salwar, which is baggy and can be full of folds.<ref>Edward O'Brien (of the Indian Civil Service ) (1881) Glossary of the Multani Language Compared with Punjábi and Sindhi [https://books.google.com/books?id=u10IAAAAQAAJ]</ref> The tight suthan is loose to the knees, but the loose Punjabi suthan is loose to the lower legs and very tight at the ankles. The salwar ends in a band which is loose fitting. Despite this difference, people use the words ''suthan'' and ''salwar'' interchangeably to refer to loose suthans and salwars,<ref>John, A (2009) Two dialects one region: A sociolinguistic approach to dialects as identity markers.</ref> with the loose suthan resembling the salwar.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=yCRuAAAAMAAJ Dhavalikar, Madhukar Keshav (2003) Archaeology of western India]</ref>

Prior to the use of the term ''pajama'', the term ''suthan'' was used. Therefore, the woollen pajamas of Gilgit<ref>Knight, E.F. (1996) Where Three Empires Meet: A Narrative of Recent Travel in Kashmir, Western Tibet, Gilgit, and the Adjoining Countries [https://books.google.com/books?id=3zl-b6g4GDIC&pg=PA277]</ref> are also referred to as ''suthan''.<ref>Kapur, Manohar Lal (1992) Social and economic history of Jammu and Kashmir State, 1885-1925 A.D. [https://books.google.com/books?id=3ecbAAAAIAAJ]</ref> However, these are not of the Punjabi variety. The churidar pajama was also referred to as ''suthan''.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=ALpHAAAAYAAJ Census of India, 1981: Himachal Pradesh. Series 7]</ref>

The word ''suthana'' was also used in Hindi, to refer to pajamas.<ref>The University (1982)Panjab University Research Bulletin: Arts, Volume 13, Issue 1 - Volume 14, Issue 1 [https://books.google.com/books?id=nvE7AQAAIAAJ]</ref>

===History=== thumb|20th (Punjab) Regiment of Bengal Native Infantry. Painting by Walter Fane (1828–85), 1868

==== Suthan ==== The use of the suthan in the Punjab region<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=i73QAAAAMAAJ&q=lahore+suthan W.H. Allen, 1925 The National Review, Volume 86]</ref> also called suthana in Punjabi is a survival of the ancient svasthana.<ref name="autogenerated3"/><ref>Catherine Ella Blanshard Asher, Thomas R. Metcalf (1994) Perceptions of South Asia's visual past [https://books.google.com/books?id=HDluAAAAMAAJ&q=svasthana+punjab]</ref> Svasthana referred to a lower garment which can be described as a type of trousers. The svasthana was in use amongst the rulers in the Mauryan times (322–185 BCE).<ref>Vishnu, Asha (1993) Material Life of Northern India: Based on an Archaeological Study, 3rd Century B.C. to 1st Century B. [https://books.google.com/books?id=zaJ5oyrqBakC&dq=svasthana+trousers&pg=PA11]</ref> Evidence of the use of svasthana amongst the ruling classes has also been observed in North India during the Kushan Empire between the 1st and 3rd centuries C.E.<ref>Archaeological Congress and Seminar Papers: Papers Presented at the 4th Annual Congress of the Indian Archaeological Society and the Seminars Held at Nagpur on the 10th, 11th, and 12th Nov. 1970, Volume 4, Part 1970 [https://books.google.com/books?id=_xJuAAAAMAAJ&q=+svasthana]</ref> It was noted in use during the Gupta Empire between 4th and 6th centuries C.E.<ref>Mohapatra, Ramesh Prasad (1992) Fashion Styles of Ancient India: A Study of Kalinga from Earliest Times to Sixteenth Century Ad [https://books.google.com/books?id=QO2BAAAAMAAJ&q=svasthana+]</ref> and during King Harsha's<ref name="autogenerated3b">A.V. Narasimha Murthy, K.V. Ramesh (1987). ''Giridharaśrī: essays on Indology'': Dr. G.S. Dikshit felicitation volume [https://books.google.com/books?id=Q_-1AAAAIAAJ&q=svasthana+harsha]</ref> rule during the 7th century C.E.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=QCfjAAAAMAAJ&q=Harshacharita++svasthana Journal of the Uttar Pradesh Historical Society Journal, Volume 23, Parts 1-2 (1950)]</ref>

A version of the svasthana has been noted in ancient India which sticks to the calves with narrow circumferences of the lower opening.<ref>Bahl, Vinay (2005) What Went Wrong with "history from Below": Reinstating Human Agency as Human Creativity [https://books.google.com/books?id=9euGAAAAIAAJ&q=svasthana+trousers]</ref> This is similar to the Punjabi ghuttana which is loose at the thighs and tightens at the knees and ends at the calves (with some versions ending at the knees and the lower legs being naked).<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=WCBuAAAAMAAJ&q=punjab+half+trousers Proceedings - Punjab History Conference (2001)]</ref> This suggests that the use of the suthan is indigenous to the Punjab region. Ultimately, however, the svasthana could have been introduced to ancient India from Central Asia,<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=bOxZAAAAIAAJ&q=svasthana+ Indian Institute of Advanced Study Transactions, Volume 17]</ref> but its use became popular amongst the general people in the local area during the medieval period,<ref>Thapliyal, Uma Prasad (1978) Foreign elements in ancient Indian society, 2nd century BC to 7th century AD.[https://books.google.com/books?id=9X4BAAAAMAAJ&q=svasthana+trousers]</ref> particularly, the 7th century C.E.<ref name="autogenerated3b"/> The wearing of the suthan and kurta continued to be prevalent during the Mughal period between 1526 and 1748 C.E.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=T_mC-s_K-6sC&q=punjab Misra, Rekha (1967) Women in Mughal India, 1526-1748 A.D]</ref> and has been in use in unbroken succession since ancient times.<ref>Aniruddha Ray, Kuzhippalli Skaria Mathew (2002) Studies in history of the Deccan: medieval and modern : Professor A.R. Kulkarni felicitation volume [https://books.google.com/books?id=OT9uAAAAMAAJ&q=svasthana+punjab+unbroken]</ref> The National Review (1925) notes that the suthan was in much use in the Punjab, generally in white washable cloth but on feast days of rich material such as Lahore silk.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=i73QAAAAMAAJ&q=lahore W.H. (1925) The National Review, Volume 86]</ref> The svasthana was worn with the tunic called varbana<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=A1jrAAAAMAAJ&q=svasthana+tunic J. J. Bhabha (1969) Mārg̲, Volume 23 Marg Publications (1969)]</ref> which was tight fitting.

====Kurta/kurti====

thumb|left|Saraiki kurti The use of side slits in the straight cut Punjabi kurta can be traced to the 11th century C.E.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=irh9dvlLz3MC&dq=kurtaka+dress&pg=PA118 Ghurye, Govind Sadashiv (1966) Indian Costume]</ref> female kurtaka worn in parts of north India and was a short shirt, with sleeves extending from the shoulders, to the middle of the body, and had slashes on the left and the right sides.<ref>Yadava,Ganga Prasad (1982) Dhanapāla and His Times: A Socio-cultural Study Based Upon His Works [https://books.google.com/books?id=aY_I3zgxfpsC&dq=kurtaka+dress&pg=PA107]</ref> This is the same as the modern straight cut kurta which has side slits and worn by women in Punjab.<ref>Sharma, Brij Narain (1966) Social life in Northern India, A.D. 600-1000</ref>

In modern usage, a short kurta is referred to as the kurti. However, traditionally, the kurti is a short cotton coat <ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=7SdGAQAAIAAJ&q=kurti+is+punjabi+dress Punjab District Gazetteers: Rawalpindi District (v. 28A) (1909)]</ref><ref>Compiled and published under the authority of the Punjab government, (1939)Punjab District and State Gazetteers: Part A. [https://books.google.com/books?id=6eY2AQAAMAAJ&q=punjab++kurti]</ref> (without side slits) and is believed to have descended from the tunic of the Shunga period (2nd century BC).<ref>Panjab University Research Bulletin: Arts, Volume 13, Issue 1 - Volume 14, Issue (1982) [https://books.google.com/books?id=nvE7AQAAIAAJ&q=sunga]</ref> The local style of kurti also includes the type that flares out around the waist.<ref name="autogenerated6">[https://books.google.com/books?id=b8JFAQAAIAAJ&q=punjabi+kurti++anga Punjab District Gazetteers: Sirmur state, 1934]</ref>

The traditional Punjabi kurti is front opening and is buttoned. Traditionally, a chain of gold or silver called zanjiri is woven into the buttons.<ref>Kehal, Harkesh Singh (2011) Alop ho riha Punjabi virsa bhag dooja. Lokgeet Parkashan. {{ISBN|978-93-5017-532-3}}</ref> The use of the kurti by women has been noted during the 1600s<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=6-jZAAAAMAAJ&q=+kurti Dr Daljit Singh (2004) Punjab Socio-Economic Condition (1501-1700 A.D.)]</ref><ref>Sanjeev Prasad Srivastava, R. P. Srivastava (2001) Studies in Panjab Sculpture [https://books.google.com/books?id=W0SIptlc5rQC&dq=punjab+dress+central+asian&pg=PA6]</ref> to the present day. The kurti can be front opening from below the neck to the waist, or cover the back but leave the stomach exposed with some styles fastening at the back. A variation of the kurti, known as a bandi, is sleeveless and is worn as a pullover with no side slits and front opening. A longer version of the bandi is known as a chemise which has a lace around its hem.<ref>Dr SIngh, Sadhu (2010) Punjabi boli di virasat. Chenta Prakashan. {{ISBN|817883618-1}}</ref> Both bandi and chemise traditionally have been worn by women indoors. Somer versions are worn as pullovers with no side slits and font opening. The choli is referred to as kurti in Punjabi which can be half or full sleeved and be hip<ref>Arabinda Biswas, India. Indian Costumes (1985) Ministry of Information and Broadcasting. Publications Division [https://books.google.com/books?id=vdyBAAAAMAAJ&q=ghagra+kurti+-choli+punjabi]</ref> length.

{{clear}}

===Design=== Punjabi women in west Punjab<ref name="himalmag.com">[http://www.himalmag.com/component/content/article/1961-The-Salwar-Revolution.html] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131203022955/http://www.himalmag.com/component/content/article/1961-The-Salwar-Revolution.html|date=2013-12-03}} The Salwar Revolution Article</ref><ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=JihGAQAAIAAJ&q=ghagra+punjab Punjab District Gazetteers: Mianwali district (v. 30A) (1915)]</ref> and east Punjab<ref name="himalmag.com"/> (which includes Haryana and Himachal Pradesh) traditionally wore the Punjabi suthan suit which was made of a head scarf, upper garment and suthan.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=jGIBAAAAMAAJ&q=suthan Sir Jadunath Sarkar (1958) Essays presented to Sir Jadunath Sarkar]</ref>

====Types==== The Punjabi suthan is of two types: loose to above the ankles and tight at the ankles, or loose to the knees, and then cut straight and tight to the ankles.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=NcRFAQAAIAAJ&q=shalwar Punjab District Gazetteers: pt. 1 Muzaffargarh district, 1929]</ref>

====Loose Punjabi suthan==== It was noted by Alberuni in the 11th century C.E. that the local drawers are of gigantic proportions.<ref name="autogenerated1"/> This could point to the loose Punjabi suthan which, unlike the Punjabi salwar, has multiple pleats and is very baggy with many folds. The suthan can also be arranged in plaits.<ref>Wace, E.G. (1874) Report on the land revenue settlement of the Hazara District of the Punjab : 1868 - 1874 [https://books.google.com/books?id=bMPTuskHAqUC&q=ending+above]</ref> Up to 20 yards of cloth can be used which hangs in innumerable folds.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=s-Y2AQAAMAAJ&q=punjab++suthan Punjab District Gazetteers (1932)]</ref> Some varieties, such as those of Chakwal, can use between 30 and 40 yards of cloth which are made with overhanging pleats.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=eOtAAQAAMAAJ&q=sutthan+punjabi Punjab District Gazetteers 1907 Jhelum District ..]</ref>

The material used for the suthan is traditionally coloured cotton with silk lines going down and is called sussi.<ref>Punjab District Gazetteer: Reprint of Ludhiana District and Malerkotla State Gazetteer, 1904 [https://books.google.com/books?id=E-c2AQAAMAAJ&q=punjabi+suthan]</ref> Sussi was manufactured in various places such as Hoshiarpur, Amritsar, Multan and Jhang.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=dXoiAAAAMAAJ&q=jhang+district+salwar Gauba, Anand (1988) Amritsar, a study in urban history, 1840-1947]</ref>

Instead of the Punjabi salwar paunchay at the bottom of the salwar, which are loose,<ref name="Mohinder Singh Randhawa 1960"/> the Punjabi suthan is gathered midway between the knees and the ankles to fit closely to the leg and end in a tight band at the ankles which is what distinguishes the two lower garments.<ref name="Mohinder Singh Randhawa 1960"/> The tight band of the suthan is a remnant of the ancient svasthana trousers which were tight fitting to the thighs. The use of loose material is a local development. The pleats of the suthan either gather in circles resembling bangles, or fall vertically to the ankles. As the distinction between the loose Punjabi suthan and the baggy salwar rests on the ankle band, some view the loose Punjabi suthan as another version of the salwar,<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=6-jZAAAAMAAJ&q=punjabi+suthan Singh, Daljit (2004) Punjab Socio-Economic Condition (1501-1700 A.D.)]</ref> with the definition of suthan being reserved for the tight Punjabi suthan. The loose suthan is primarily a female costume, but in some areas, such as Rawalpindi, was worn by men too,<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=Vu5BAQAAMAAJ&q=men+punjab+suthan Punjab District Gazetteers, Volume 28, Part 1 Rawalpindi. (1909)]</ref> which is also called tambi when worn by men.<ref>Bailey, Thomas Grahame (1919) An English-Panjabi Dictionary: Romanized [https://books.google.com/books?id=LOxpU2Kh7uEC&dq=sutthan&pg=PA126]</ref><ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=Wf5tAAAAMAAJ&q=tambi+suthan Gazetteer of the Rawalpindi District, 1893-94]</ref> The loose suthan was also worn by men in Bannu (Khyber Pakhtunkhwa)<ref>{{usurped|1=[https://web.archive.org/web/20070213055321/http://www.khyber.org/publications/031-035/sociallifebannu.shtml#Clothing Khyber.Org]}}</ref> which has historical and cultural connections with the rest of the Punjab region.<ref>Social & Religious Life in Bannu Excerpts from Gazetteer of the Bannu District, 1887 (present day Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan formerly of British Punjab Province) {{usurped|1=[https://web.archive.org/web/20070213055321/http://www.khyber.org/publications/031-035/sociallifebannu.shtml]}}</ref><ref>Pakistan Studies Centre, University of Sind, 2005 -Grassroots, Volume 33 [https://books.google.com/books?id=8_dtAAAAMAAJ&q=hazara+punjabi++n+w+f+p]</ref>

<gallery widths="180"> File:Pahari women kashmir3.jpg|Women in Punjabi suthan 1890 File:Nihang Singh and Nihang Singhani.jpg|19th Century Punjabi suthan suit worn by the lady on the right File:Punjabi Sikh woman in Amritsar Punjabi suthan and short kurta 1874.jpg|Punjabi woman in Punjabi suthan and short kurta 1874 File:Market Place, Bikanir 1896. Woman on left in loose Punjabi suthan suit.jpg|Woman on left in loose Punjabi suthan suit File:Men in British Punjab army in tight and loose Punjabi suthans 1895.jpg|Men in British Punjab army in tight and loose Punjabi suthans 1895 File:A Punjabi woman in Kurti and suthan visiting the Attar, the pharmacist. 1852.jpg|A Punjabi woman in Kurti and suthan visiting the Attar, the pharmacist. 1852 </gallery>

====Tight Punjabi suthan==== The tight Punjabi suthan is a variation of the ancient svasthana, and was still popular in the Punjab region in the 19th century. The tight suthan is baggy from the knees up<ref>Baden Henry Baden-Powell (1872) Hand-book of the Manufactures & Arts of the Punjab: With a Combined Glossary & Index of Vernacular Trades & Technical Terms ... Forming Vol. Ii to the "Hand-book of the Economic Products of the Punjab" Prepared Under the Orders of Government page 115 the tight suthan was also worn in Bannu which is now in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan, formerly of British Punjab Province [https://books.google.com/books?id=gg_JAAAAMAAJ&q=they+fit+tight&pg=PA116]</ref> and tight from the knees down to the ankles<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=1s5AAAAAIAAJ&q=letters+from+india+and+kashmir Letters from India and Kashmir (1874)]</ref> (a remnant of the tight fit ancient svasthana). The tight suthan remained popular in the East Punjab into the 1960s.<ref name="Mohinder Singh Randhawa 1960"/> In Multan, the tight suthan remained popular till the early 21st century.<ref>Chaudhry, Nazir Ahmad (2002) Multan Glimpses: With an Account of Siege and Surrender [https://books.google.com/books?id=_fxtAAAAMAAJ&q=ancestors]</ref> The Punjabi suthan is part of male and female attire and is part of traditional dress in the hills of Punjab, Pakistan, including Bannu. It is still a traditional garment in Jammu where it is held in high regard.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=gs27AAAAIAAJ&q=tight+ Raina, A.D. (1968) Field study in Jammu and Kashmir]</ref> The Gaddi<ref name="autogenerated4"/> community wear the garment, especially in Pathankot<ref>Shashi, Shyam Singh (1977) The Gaddi Tribe of Himachal Pradesh: A Sociological Study [https://books.google.com/books?id=XZk9AAAAMAAJ&q=gaddi++pathankot]</ref> and Nurpur (Gurdaspur District).Its variation known as the churidar suthan is worn in the Punjab mountainous region<ref>GORE, Frederick St. John. (1895) Lights & Shades of Hill Life in the Afghan and Hindu Highlands of the Punjab. A contrast ... With maps and illustrations, etc [http://access.bl.uk/item/pdf/lsidyv39189ee9] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210224031950/http://access.bl.uk/item/pdf/lsidyv39189ee9|date=2021-02-24}}</ref> especially by the Gujjar community in the foothills of Punjab, India,<ref name="autogenerated4">Hāṇḍā, Omacanda (1998) Textiles, Costumes, and Ornaments of the Western Himalaya. [https://books.google.com/books?id=JFPnh9B5zncC&q=suthan+chamba]</ref><ref>Sharma, V. P. Kohler-Rollefson, Ilse Pastoralism. Morton, John in India: A scoping study</ref> and Himachal Pradesh<ref>Kumar Suresh Singh, B. R. Sharma, Anthropological Survey of India, A. R. Sankhyan (1996) Himachal Pradesh [https://books.google.com/books?id=XEduAAAAMAAJ&q=suthan+himachal+pradesh]</ref> whereby the upper part is loose but below the knees, the tight part is sewn in folds to create a bangles look. When worn in Jammu, the suthan is referred to as Dogri pants<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.planyourwedding.co.in/hyderabad/fashion/the-rockstar-dhoti.aspx |title=Banerjee, Sanhati. The Rockstar Dhoti (15.01.2012) |access-date=2015-06-28 |archive-date=2013-06-03 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130603074841/http://www.planyourwedding.co.in/hyderabad/fashion/the-rockstar-dhoti.aspx |url-status=dead }}</ref> or Dogri suthan. This is the basis of the churidar pyjama, which in the Punjab region is also known as the (full length) ghuttana<ref>Abdul Halim Sharar, Rosie Llewellyn-Jones, Veena Talwar Oldenburg (2001) The Lucknow Omnibus [https://books.google.com/books?id=P1swAQAAIAAJ&q=sikhs]</ref> which was adopted in Lucknow during the 19th century. Where the churidar suthan is tight up to the knees and wide above, the churidar pajama is tight below the calves and slightly loose above.<ref>Hankin, Nigel B. (1994) Hanklyn-Janklin, or, A stranger's rumble-tumble guide to some words, customs and quiddities Indian and Indo-British [https://books.google.com/books?id=rEZeAAAAIAAJ&q=persian+churidar+pyjama]</ref> The waist fits closer than the suthan.

In the late 19th century, the slim line riding breeches known as Jodhpuri,<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=2ZF5EIfX9VwC&dq=jodhpur+breeches+origins&pg=PA56 Singh, Jaisal (2007) Polo in India]</ref> were developed along the lines of the tight fitting Punjabi suthan, albeit the churidar<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=vdyBAAAAMAAJ&q=jodhpurs+churidar Biswas, Arabinda (1985) Indian Costumes]</ref> is cited as an inspiration.<ref>Albert, Jack (2011)It's a Wonderful Word: The Real Origins of Our Favourite Words [https://books.google.com/books?id=CcsCBrxNXZQC&dq=jodhpur+breeches+origins&pg=PT72]</ref> Since the creation of India and Pakistan, women of the meo community of Rajasthan have adopted the salwar called khusni which, like the Punjabi suthan, is tight below the knees and loose above and is worn with a long kameez.<ref>Partap Chand Aggarwal (1971) Caste, religion, and power: an Indian case study [https://books.google.com/books?id=xBguAAAAMAAJ&q=khusni+]</ref>

<gallery widths=180> File:Cheetah and keeper Jeypore. Man in tight Punjabi suthan. 1896.jpg|Man in tight Punjabi suthan. 1896 File:Sepoys of 20th Punjab Infantry and Hunza Gun. 1893. Men in Punjabi tight from knees suthan.jpg|1893. Men in Punjabi tight from knees suthan File:Men of the British Punjab army in suthans 1895 Punjab Hills. Churidar suthan.jpg|Men of the British Punjab army in Punjabi churidar suthans 1895 Punjab Hills File:Punjab Hills 1895. Kulu woman in churidar suthan. Himachal Pradesh.jpg|Punjab Hills 1895. Kulu woman in Punjabi churidar suthan. Himachal Pradesh. File:Bharatpore maharajah.jpg|he Nawab Muhammad Bahawal Khan Abbasi V Bahadur (1883–1907) of Bahawalpur State in suthan File:Nawab of Bahawalpur.JPG|Nawab of Bahawalpur and generals in suthan </gallery>

=====Upper garments===== Punjabi women wore the suthan with a kurta, kurti, kameez<ref>Sir Jadunath Sarkar, Hari Ram Gupta (1958) Sir Jadunath Sarkar Commemoration Volumes: Essays presented to Sir Jadunath Sarkar [https://books.google.com/books?id=Sr85AQAAIAAJ&q=+suthan]</ref> or jhaga. The kurti could be straight cut ending at the waist or be a mini version of the anga,<ref name="autogenerated6"/> which is a gown flowing to below the knees and even to the ankles (akin to the anarkali) also known as an angarkha<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=Vf4InPH0STQC&q=peshwaj+known+as+anga Rajaram Narayan Saletore (1974) Sex Life Under Indian Rulers]</ref><ref>Panjab University Research Bulletin: Arts, Volume 13, Issue 1 - Volume 14, Issue 1 (1982) [https://books.google.com/books?id=nvE7AQAAIAAJ&q=peshwaj+known+as+anga]</ref> and peshwaj<ref>B. N. Goswamy, Kalyan Krishna, Tarla P. Dundh (1993) Indian Costumes in the Collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles, Volume 5 [https://books.google.com/books?id=1IHWAAAAMAAJ&q=west+india+peshwaj+is+known+as+anga]</ref> which is similar to a loose coat and wadded with cotton.<ref>Punjab District Gazetteers - District Attock Year Published 1930 BK-000211-0160 [https://books.google.com/books?id=3MNFAQAAIAAJ&q=+anga]</ref>

=====Variations===== Sometimes women replaced the suthan with a churidar pajama, (a tradition noted by Baden-Powell in 1872 in his book Hand-book of the Manufactures and Arts of the Punjab)<ref>Baden-Powell, Baden. Henry (1872) Hand-book of the Manufactures and Arts of the Punjab [https://books.google.com/books?id=HnAIAAAAQAAJ&dq=kurta+punjab+new&pg=PA105]</ref> which would then be covered with a Punjabi Ghagra when going outdoors. The Punjabi ghagra has its origins in the candataka which continued as a popular female dress in the seventh century.<ref>Uma Prasad Thapliyal (1978) Foreign elements in ancient Indian society, 2nd century BC to 7th century AD [https://books.google.com/books?id=9X4BAAAAMAAJ&q=candataka+dress]</ref> The use of the svasthana was also popular in this period. However, the candataka ended at the thighs and the svasthana may have been used to cover the lower legs thus giving rise to the tradition of wearing the ghagra and the suthan together. Older Punjabi women wore churidar pajama and long kurta. These different styles were popular during the 1960s in East Punjab.<ref name="Mohinder Singh Randhawa 1960"/> Certain members of the Punjabi community however, were wearing the suthan and kurti on its own without the Punjabi Ghagra, a tradition documented in the Gazetter of Hoshiarpur District 1883-84<ref>Gazetteer of the Hoshiarpur District: 1883-84. Sang-e-Meel Publications, 2001.[https://books.google.com/books?id=eIpuAAAAMAAJ&q=+suthan]</ref> and also in the 1915 Hissar Gazetteer<ref name="revenueharyana.gov.in">{{Cite web |title=Archived copy |url=http://revenueharyana.gov.in/html/gazeteers/hissar%201915.pdf |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140501205845/http://revenueharyana.gov.in/html/gazeteers/HISSAR%201915.pdf |archive-date=2014-05-01 |access-date=2014-11-25}}</ref> Punjabi women (and men) also wore the ghutanna, a type of pajama which was shorter than the full length pajama, and was tight and ended at the calf.<ref name="books.google.co.uk">Paintings and lifestyles of Jammu Region: 17th to 19th Century A.D Raj Kumar [https://books.google.com/books?id=f-1XyQ2eIG8C&dq=punjabi+suthan+kameez&pg=PA145]</ref>

Although the use of the Suthan subsequently spread to the Jammu area of the Punjab region,<ref name="books.google.co.uk"/> Sindh<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=ql87AAAAMAAJ&q=paro S. P. Chablānī Economic conditions in Sind, 1592 to 1843 (1951)]</ref> (where it was not traditionally worn) and Kashmir, in the plains of the Punjab region, the suthan was replaced with the Punjabi version of the salwar and the Punjabi kameez which gained more and more popularity during the 1960s.<ref name="Mohinder Singh Randhawa 1960"/>

==See also== * Patiala salwar * Saraiki shalwar suits * Shalwar kameez * Punjabi clothing

==References== {{Reflist|30em}}

{{Punjabi clothing}}{{Pakistani clothing}}

Category:Indian clothing Category:Indian fashion Category:Pakistani clothing Category:Culture of Pakistan Category:Punjabi clothing