{{Short description|Traditional clothing of Okinawans}} {{italic title}} thumb|Female dancer in a {{transliteration|ryu|bingata watansu}} (outer wear), red {{transliteration|ryu|dujin}} (top). {{transliteration|ryu|'''Ucinaasugai'''}}<ref>{{Cite web |title=琉装の魅力 {{!}} veni レンタル琉装 |url=https://veni.okinawa/attractive/ |access-date=2022-12-07 |language=ja}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=FishTail, Inc |title=琉装(ウチナースガイ) とは 【セットアップ、民族衣装】｜モダリーナのアパレル・ファッション図鑑 |url=https://www.modalina.jp/modapedia/w/e79089e8a385/ |access-date=2022-12-19 |website=ファッション検索 モダリーナ |language=ja}}</ref> ({{langx|ryu|ウチナースガイ/沖繩姿}}), also known as {{transliteration|ryu|'''Ryusou'''}} ({{langx|ja|<ruby><rb>琉装</rb><rt>りゅうそう</rt></ruby>}}, also written as '''{{transliteration|ja|ryusō}}''') and referred as '''{{transliteration|ryu|ushinchi}}''' in Okinawan, is the folk costume of Ryukyuan.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Astroth|first=Alexander|title=Mass suicides on Saipan and Tinian, 1944 : an examination of the civilian deaths in historical context|date=2019|isbn=978-1-4766-7456-8|location=Jefferson, North Carolina|pages=48|oclc=1049791315}}</ref><ref name=":0">{{Cite web|title=Traditional Costume that Represents Okinawa's Culture and National Features, the "Ryusou". {{!}} Features {{!}} Okinawa Travel Info|url=http://okinawatravelinfo.com/feature/201601ryuusou/|access-date=2021-12-24|website=okinawatravelinfo.com|language=en}}</ref><ref name=":6">{{Cite web|title=10 Must-Try Traditional Okinawan Experiences|url=https://visitokinawajapan.com/travel-inspiration/must-try-traditional-experiences/|access-date=2021-12-24|website=VISIT OKINAWA JAPAN {{!}} Official Okinawa Travel Guide|language=ja}}</ref> {{transliteration|ja|Ryusou}} is a form of formal attire; it is customary to wear it on occasions such as wedding ceremony and the coming-of-age ceremony.<ref name=":0" /> The {{transliteration|ja|ryusou}} became popular during the Ryukyu Kingdom period.<ref name=":0" /> It was originally worn by the members of the royal family and by the nobles of Ryukyu Kingdom.<ref name=":0" /> The Ryukyu Kingdom was originally an independent nation which established trade relationship with many countries in Southeast Asia (Java, Malacca, and Palembang) and East Asia; they held their relationship with China as especially important.<ref name=":1">{{Cite book |last=Daner |first=Steven Lauren |title=Native peoples of the world : an encyclopedia of groups, cultures, and contemporary issues |date=2013 |publisher=Sharpe Reference, an imprint of M.E. Sharpe, Inc |isbn=978-0-7656-8294-9 |location=Armonk, NY |pages=235 |oclc=827552799}}</ref> The development of the {{transliteration|ja|ryusou}} was influenced by both the {{transliteration|zh|hanfu}} and the kimono,<ref name=":0" /> demonstrating a combination of Chinese and Japanese influences along with local originality.<ref name=":11">{{Cite journal|last=Nordquist|first=Barbara K.|date=1978-01-01|title=The Ryūkyū Islands: Some Notes on Dress|url=https://doi.org/10.1179/036121178805298829|journal=Dress|volume=4|issue=1|pages=66–75|doi=10.1179/036121178805298829|issn=0361-2112|url-access=subscription}}</ref>
== Construction and design == left|thumb|Illustration of woman wearing {{transliteration|ryu|dujin}} (top) and {{transliteration|ryu|kakan}} (skirt). The {{transliteration|ryu|ryusou}} shows a combination of Chinese and Japanese influences as well as local, native originality.<ref name=":11" /> Robes which crossed in the front was worn by both the working and upper classes; however, they differed in length (from knee to ankle length).<ref name=":11" /> The working class would wear a knee-length robe while the upper classes would wear robes which were ankle-length.<ref name=":11" />
During the Ryukyu Kingdom period, the colour, fabric, and design of the {{transliteration|ryu|ryusou}}, alongside the style of headgear, was used to distinguish the social status and rank of the wearer.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":6">{{Cite web|title=10 Must-Try Traditional Okinawan Experiences|url=https://visitokinawajapan.com/travel-inspiration/must-try-traditional-experiences/|access-date=2021-12-24|website=VISIT OKINAWA JAPAN {{!}} Official Okinawa Travel Guide|language=ja}}</ref><ref name=":11" />
Men's {{transliteration|ryu|ryusou}} differ from women's {{transliteration|ryu|ryusou}} in terms of colour, design, and material.<ref name=":0" /> Men would secure their robes with a sash or girdle but women would hold theirs with a pin.<ref name=":11" /> The {{transliteration|ryu|ryusou}} for women is based on the {{nihongo3|{{lit|red patterns}}|紅型|bingata}} style of dyework.<ref name=":0" /> {{transliteration|ja|Bingata}} could only be afforded by the people who had a rank and were wealthy.<ref name=":12">{{Cite book|last=Metropolitan Museum of Art|title=Notable acquisitions, 1983-1984|date=1984|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art|others=Philippe De Montebello|isbn=0-87099-387-9|location=New York|pages=122–123|oclc=11749880}}</ref> {{transliteration|ja|Bingata}} textiles were strictly supervised by the royal court.<ref name=":13">{{Cite book|last1=Dusenbury|first1=Mary|title=Flowers, Dragons & Pine Trees Asian Textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art|last2=Bier|first2=Carol|publisher=Hudson Hills Press|year=2004|isbn=9781555952389|pages=240}}</ref> It was closely associated with the royal court and was traditionally reserved for the royalty of Ryukyu and aristocrats,<ref name=":13">{{Cite book|last1=Dusenbury|first1=Mary|title=Flowers, Dragons & Pine Trees Asian Textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art|last2=Bier|first2=Carol|publisher=Hudson Hills Press|year=2004|isbn=9781555952389|pages=240}}</ref><ref name=":6">{{Cite web|title=10 Must-Try Traditional Okinawan Experiences|url=https://visitokinawajapan.com/travel-inspiration/must-try-traditional-experiences/|access-date=2021-12-24|website=VISIT OKINAWA JAPAN {{!}} Official Okinawa Travel Guide|language=ja}}</ref> and for warrior families.<ref name=":14">{{Cite web|last=Shigeki|first=Kawakami|translator=Melissa M. Rinne |title=Ryukyu and Ainu Textiles|url=https://www.kyohaku.go.jp/eng/dictio/senshoku/ryui.html|website=Kyoto National Museum}}</ref> {{transliteration|ja|Bingata}} is brightly coloured,<ref name=":6">{{Cite web|title=10 Must-Try Traditional Okinawan Experiences|url=https://visitokinawajapan.com/travel-inspiration/must-try-traditional-experiences/|access-date=2021-12-24|website=VISIT OKINAWA JAPAN {{!}} Official Okinawa Travel Guide|language=ja}}</ref> commonly using red dye derived from cinnabar, the most important colour in {{transliteration|ja|bingata}}, imported from Fujian, China.<ref name=":12">{{Cite book|last=Metropolitan Museum of Art|title=Notable acquisitions, 1983-1984|date=1984|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art|others=Philippe De Montebello|isbn=0-87099-387-9|location=New York|pages=122–123|oclc=11749880}}</ref> It is also suggested by Japanese scholar Yoshitaro Kamakura that the dyeing and painting techniques, styles, materials, motifs (e.g. Fujian-style Chinese bird and flower were introduced under the reign of King Shō Kei)<ref name=":13">{{Cite book|last1=Dusenbury|first1=Mary|title=Flowers, Dragons & Pine Trees Asian Textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art|last2=Bier|first2=Carol|publisher=Hudson Hills Press|year=2004|isbn=9781555952389|pages=240}}</ref> of {{transliteration|ja|bingata}} were also imported from Fujian.<ref name=":13">{{Cite book|last1=Dusenbury|first1=Mary|title=Flowers, Dragons & Pine Trees Asian Textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art|last2=Bier|first2=Carol|publisher=Hudson Hills Press|year=2004|isbn=9781555952389|pages=240}}</ref>
A form of {{transliteration|ryu|ryusou}} for women is intended to be shorter than the kimono: it is a two-piece garment attire which consists of {{transliteration|ryu|dujin}} ({{lang|ryu|胴衣}}; {{lang|ja|ドゥジン}}; cross-collar upper body garment) and {{transliteration|ryu|kakan}} ({{lang|ryu|裙}}; {{lang|ja|カカン}}; a pleated skirt).<ref name=":10">{{Cite book |last=Sarashima |first=Sumiko |title=Intangible cultural heritage in Japan : Bingata, a traditional dyed textile from Okinawa. |publisher=Great Britain: University College London (University of London) |year=2013 |oclc=894605306}}</ref>{{rp|158–160}} A woven or {{transliteration|ja|bingata}} garment, called {{transliteration|ryu|watansu}} ({{lang|ryu|綿御衣}}; {{lang|ryu|ワタンス}}),<ref name=":15">{{Cite web |title=Lined Costume in BINGATA dyeing : Naha City Historical Museum |url=http://www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp/en/archives/item1/2294 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220410165709/http://www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp/en/archives/item1/2294 |archive-date=2022-04-10 |access-date=2021-12-24 |website=www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp}}</ref> can also be worn loosely over the {{transliteration|ryu|dujin}} and {{transliteration|ryu|kakan}}.<ref name=":10"/> Only men of royalty and from the warring class were allowed to wear {{transliteration|ryu|dujin}} and trousers as an undergarment.<ref name=":9">{{Cite web |title=Costume: White ground satin. Silk. (Undergarment and Pants-like garment) : Naha City Historical Museum |url=http://www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp/en/archives/item1/2174 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220410165957/http://www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp/en/archives/item1/2174 |archive-date=2022-04-10 |access-date=2021-12-24 |website=www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp}}</ref>
{{transliteration|ryu|Ryusou}} can be made of high-quality plain-weave hemp fabric called {{transliteration|ja|jōfu}},<ref name=":0" /> and {{nihongo||芭蕉布|bashōfu}}, which is banana fibre textile.<ref name=":14">{{Cite web|last=Shigeki|first=Kawakami|translator=Melissa M. Rinne |title=Ryukyu and Ainu Textiles|url=https://www.kyohaku.go.jp/eng/dictio/senshoku/ryui.html|website=Kyoto National Museum}}</ref> {{transliteration|ja|Bashōfu}} was the preferred textile for summer due to its airiness, for its smooth surface and because it does not stick to the skin in hot weather, making it suitable for the hot climate of Okinawa.<ref name=":14">{{Cite web|last=Shigeki|first=Kawakami|translator=Melissa M. Rinne |title=Ryukyu and Ainu Textiles|url=https://www.kyohaku.go.jp/eng/dictio/senshoku/ryui.html|website=Kyoto National Museum}}</ref> According to the {{transliteration|zh|Zhongshan chuanxin lu}} (''Records on Chûzan''), {{transliteration|ja|bashōfu}} was worn by both men and women during winter and summer, and its value equalled that of silk.<ref name=":17">{{Cite book |last=Hendrickx |first=Katrien |title=The origins of banana-fibre cloth in the Ryukyus, Japan |date=2007 |publisher=Leuven University Press |isbn=978-94-6166-049-7 |location=Leuven [Belgium] |oclc=715172043}}</ref>{{Rp|pages=85–86}} {{transliteration|ja|Bashōfu}} was also used in the making of official garments, according the {{nihongo||大島筆記|Ōshima hikki}} written in the 18th century by Japanese Confucian Tobe Yoshihiro.<ref name=":17" />{{Rp|pages=85–86}}
=== Differences to kimono === Due to the differences in climate and culture, Ryukyuan clothing differed to that worn on Japan.<ref name=":6">{{Cite web|title=10 Must-Try Traditional Okinawan Experiences|url=https://visitokinawajapan.com/travel-inspiration/must-try-traditional-experiences/|access-date=2021-12-24|website=VISIT OKINAWA JAPAN {{!}} Official Okinawa Travel Guide|language=ja}}</ref> Compared to the kimono, the {{transliteration|ryu|ryusou}} has big sleeve openings, which allows for good air circulation to keep its wearer cool in tropical weather.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":10"/> The {{transliteration|ryu|ryusou}} also uses a thin waistband instead of the wider {{transliteration|ja|obi}} worn with the kimono.<ref name=":6">{{Cite web|title=10 Must-Try Traditional Okinawan Experiences|url=https://visitokinawajapan.com/travel-inspiration/must-try-traditional-experiences/|access-date=2021-12-24|website=VISIT OKINAWA JAPAN {{!}} Official Okinawa Travel Guide|language=ja}}</ref> The {{transliteration|ryu|ryusou}} is also very light, mobile and loosely-tailored compared to the kimono.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":6">{{Cite web|title=10 Must-Try Traditional Okinawan Experiences|url=https://visitokinawajapan.com/travel-inspiration/must-try-traditional-experiences/|access-date=2021-12-24|website=VISIT OKINAWA JAPAN {{!}} Official Okinawa Travel Guide|language=ja}}</ref> The {{transliteration|ryu|ryusou}} is generally shorter than the kimono.<ref name=":10"/>{{rp|158–160}}
== History ==
=== Pre-14th century === thumb|361x361px|Buddhist monk dress, Ryukyu Kingdoms, 19th century. Cotton was exported to the Ryukyuan Kingdom as early as 219 BC from China.<ref name=":11" /> The Ryukyuans appear to have started weaving around the time there was initial contact with China, most likely during the Han dynasty.<ref name=":17" />{{Rp|pages=73–74}} In the {{transliteration|ja|Yuraiki}}, under the entry {{nihongo3|{{lit|weaving}}|織|Ori}}, it states that "It is not clear when weaving began in our country. This was probably from the time that there was contact with Han [China]".<ref name=":17" />{{Rp|pages=73–74}}
In the 5th century, oxen and swine were introduced to the islands which would also provided a source of clothing.<ref name=":11" /> According to a 5th-century records, the Ryukyu people only covered the upper parts of their bodies.<ref name=":11" />
By the 7th to 8th centuries, people were already producing hand-woven fabric of cotton and other leaf fibers.<ref name=":11" />
From the time of King Shunten's reign (1187–1237) to King Gihon (1249–1259), clothing which was characteristic of the Ryukyuan people had developed.<ref name=":11" /> The clothing was later recorded through illustrations; it was depicted in a 14th-century book.<ref name=":11" /> During the reign of King Eiso, Buddhism was introduced to the Ryukyuan Kingdom from Japan.<ref name=":11" /> The robes of Buddhist priests may have served as the basis in design source for the development of the people's clothing.<ref name=":11" /> Married women also started to be tattooed during King Satto's reign with {{transliteration|ryu|hajichi}}.<ref name=":11" />
=== 14th–16th century ===
==== Tributary relationship with China and Japan ==== Tributary relationships with the Ming dynasty were established in 1372 by the three kingdoms of Sanzan.<ref name=":3">{{Cite book|last=Howard|first=Michael C.|title=Transnationalism in ancient and medieval societies : the role of cross-border trade and travel|date=2012|publisher=McFarland|isbn=978-0-7864-9033-2|location=Jefferson, N.C.|pages=151|oclc=779849477}}</ref> In 1372, the King of Chūzan entered into a tributary relationship with the Ming dynasty, and paid tribute for 500 years for trading privileges and diplomatic ties.<ref name=":1" /> In exchange for their tributes, the Ming dynasty gifted the Ryukyu Kingdom with Ming dynasty clothing of various designs (including round-collar robes and cross-collared robes), silk, and royal crowns (such as the {{transliteration|ryu|sammo}}, known in Chinese as the {{transliteration|zh|wushamao}}, a jewelled crown).<ref name=":20">{{Cite web |title=Royal Crown (With an ornamental hairpin) : Naha City Historical Museum |url=http://www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp/en/archives/item1/2138 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220410170435/http://www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp/en/archives/item1/2138 |archive-date=2022-04-10 |access-date=2021-12-26 |website=www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp}}</ref><ref name=":4">{{Cite book|title=Self-determinable Development of Small Islands|date=2016|others=Masahide Ishihara, Eiichi Hoshino, Yōko Fujita|isbn=978-981-10-0132-1|location=Singapore|pages=56|oclc=952246912}}</ref><ref name=":7">{{Cite thesis|title=A Bridge between Myriad Lands: The Ryukyu Kingdom and Ming China (1372-1526)|url=https://scholarbank.nus.edu.sg/handle/10635/20602|date=2010-08-16|degree=Thesis|language=en|first=CHAN YING|last=KIT}}</ref><ref name=":11" />
From the reign of Satto to the 16th century, Chinese influence on the Ryukyuan Kingdom was significant, while Japanese influence faded.<ref name=":11" /> According to a historical record known as {{transliteration|ja|Yuraiki}}:
{{Blockquote|In Ryukyu, [the use of] garments began during the era of Tenson. The following generations gradually gained knowledge of weaving techniques, which developed admirably. During the 16th year of the Hong-wu era [1383], King Satto started to pursue [official] relations with China. Emperor Taizu of the Hong-wu era bestowed him with a golden seal and official garments. (Until the Qing dynasty, these were Ming-style garments.) | source = {{Cite book|last=Hendrickx|first=Katrien|title=The origins of banana-fibre cloth in the Ryukyus, Japan|date=2007|publisher=Leuven University Press|isbn=978-94-6166-049-7|location=Leuven [Belgium]|oclc=715172043}}{{rp|73}}}}
In the 15th century, textile development in Ryukyu showed Indian, Indonesian, and Chinese influences.<ref name=":11" /> During the reign of King Shō Shin ({{reign|1477|1527}}), a decree was made in an effort to codify and ritualize the dress code as an expression of one's social status and ranks; colours were then used to distinguish the upper and lower ranks, thus defining the elite identity in Ryukyu Kingdom.<ref name=":7">{{Cite thesis|title=A Bridge between Myriad Lands: The Ryukyu Kingdom and Ming China (1372-1526)|url=https://scholarbank.nus.edu.sg/handle/10635/20602|date=2010-08-16|degree=Thesis|language=en|first=CHAN YING|last=KIT}}</ref> This decree by King Shō Shin was a situation where Chinese practices were localized in the Ryukyu Kingdom.<ref name=":7">{{Cite thesis|title=A Bridge between Myriad Lands: The Ryukyu Kingdom and Ming China (1372-1526)|url=https://scholarbank.nus.edu.sg/handle/10635/20602|date=2010-08-16|degree=Thesis|language=en|first=CHAN YING|last=KIT}}</ref> Ming-style clothing for officials and daily clothing were made for the Ryukyu kings and his officials.<ref name=":17" />{{Rp|pages=106–109}} The regal insignia was a Ryukyuan innovation, which was loosely based on the Ming dynasty regulations of dress codification.<ref name=":7">{{Cite thesis|title=A Bridge between Myriad Lands: The Ryukyu Kingdom and Ming China (1372-1526)|url=https://scholarbank.nus.edu.sg/handle/10635/20602|date=2010-08-16|degree=Thesis|language=en|first=CHAN YING|last=KIT}}</ref> Dragon robes with 5-clawed dragon motifs (called {{transliteration|ryu|umantun}} or {{transliteration|ryu|umanshā}}), which resembled the dragon robes of the Ming dynasty emperor, were used by the King of Ryukyu.<ref name=":17" />{{Rp|pages=106–109}} Yellow clothing was restricted to the ruling family of Ryukyu as in China.<ref name=":18">{{Cite web |last1=Fitzgerald |first1=Kurie |last2=Zongker |first2=Brett |date=2016 |title=Okinawan Treasures Make U.S. Debut in New Exhibit at the George Washington University Museum and The Textile Museum 'Bingata! Only in Okinawa' Tracks the Colorful History of the Ryukyu Kingdom |url=https://museum.gwu.edu/okinawan-treasures-make-us-debut-new-exhibit |access-date=2021-12-24 |website=museum.gwu.edu}}</ref>
King Shō Shin was also the first to established a headwear system composed of hairpins and {{transliteration|ja|hachimaki}}-style caps with varying colours according to the official ranks of its wearer.<ref name=":17" />{{Rp|pages=106–109}} The use of {{transliteration|ja|hachimaki}} may have been a custom which had been influenced by South Asian countries.<ref name=":17" />{{Rp|pages=106–109}} The hairpins were also strictly regulated along with clothing during this period: Kings wore gold hairpins, which were decorated with a dragon, while a phoenix head decorated the hairpins of the queens; people of noble birth wore gold hairpins, silver hairpins were worn by feudal lords, brass hairpins by merchants and farmers; pewter or plain wood hairpins were worn by the people of the poorest status.<ref name=":11" /> Commoners could wear hairpins with tortoise shell in alternative hexagonal shapes of black and yellow during state occasions.<ref name=":11" />
The Chinese never attempted to impose their culture on the Ryukyuans.<ref name=":11" /> The Ryukyu people used some Chinese designs and fabrics in making; however, they also cut it in a way which would suit local tastes and whose design was practical for daily life.<ref name=":11" /> This allowed the Ryukyu people to be culturally independent from China.<ref name=":11" /> Chinese silks bestowed to the Ryukyuan people were also transformed by the local artisans in Ryukyu to make ceremonial garments; these silk ceremonial garments differed from the hemp-based clothing that most commoners would make as their clothing.<ref name=":7">{{Cite thesis|title=A Bridge between Myriad Lands: The Ryukyu Kingdom and Ming China (1372-1526)|url=https://scholarbank.nus.edu.sg/handle/10635/20602|date=2010-08-16|degree=Thesis|language=en|first=CHAN YING|last=KIT}}</ref>
The red {{transliteration|ryu|kakan}} ({{lang|ryu|裙}}), a form of pleated underskirt, is believed to have been worn under a ceremonial attire called {{transliteration|ryu|touishou}} ({{lang|ryu|唐御衣装}}), also known as {{transliteration|ryu|hibenfuku}} ({{lang|ryu|皮弁服}}) or {{transliteration|ryu|umanton}} ({{lang|ryu|御蟒緞}}),<ref name=":8">{{Cite web |title=Chinese style ceremonial costume. : Naha City Historical Museum |url=http://www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp/en/archives/item1/2145 |url-status= |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220410171337/http://www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp/en/archives/item1/2145 |archive-date=2022-04-10 |access-date=2021-12-24 |website=www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp}}</ref> which was gifted by the Ming dynasty emperors.<ref name=":21">{{Cite web |title=Costume: Red ground satin. Silk. : Naha City Historical Museum |url=http://www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp/en/archives/item1/2176 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220410172043/http://www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp/en/archives/item1/2176 |archive-date=2022-04-10 |access-date=2021-12-24 |website=www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp}}</ref> The {{transliteration|ryu|touishou}} was a winter ceremonial clothing worn by the Ryukyuan kings.<ref name=":8" /> The {{transliteration|ryu|touishou}} was slightly modified from the clothing gifted by the Ming dynasty, and included unique Ryukyuan features, such as fringes at the back of the garment, while maintaining the style of Ming dynasty court clothing.<ref name=":8" /> In the {{transliteration|zh|Zhongshan chuanxin lu}}, it is noted that both Ryukyuan men and women wore an upper garment called {{transliteration|ryu|jin}} (a type of court clothing).<ref name=":17" />{{Rp|pages=106–109}} Male undergarments consisted of a white silk {{transliteration|ryu|dujin}} ({{lang|ryu|胴衣}}), a cross-collared upper garment closed left over right, and white silk trousers. Only members of the royal family and members of upper-class warrior families were allowed to wear these undergarments.<ref name=":9" /> The emperor also wore {{transliteration|ryu|dujin}} and trousers as undergarments under his {{transliteration|ryu|touishou}}.<ref name=":9" /> The combination of {{transliteration|ryu|dujin}} and {{transliteration|ryu|kakan}} was also worn as a ceremonial costume for women who came from warrior families.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Costume in BINGATA dyed. : Naha City Historical Museum |url=http://www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp/en/archives/item1/2300 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220410173532/http://www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp/en/archives/item1/2300 |archive-date=2022-04-10 |access-date=2021-12-24 |website=www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp}}</ref> The wearing of {{transliteration|ryu|dujin}} and {{transliteration|ryu|kakan}} continued to be worn in Ryukyu at least until the Meiji period.<ref name=":17" />{{Rp|pages=118–119}} <gallery> File:King of Chūzan and his sons.jpg|King of Chūzan and his sons File:King Sho Shin.jpg|King Shō Shin File:King Sho Kei.jpg|King Shō Kei, 1713–1751. File:Replica of the crown of the Kings of Ryukyu.jpg|{{transliteration|ryu|Hibekan}} ({{lang|ryu|皮弁冠}}), also known as {{transliteration|ryu|Tama-nchabui}} ({{lang|ryu|玉御冠}}; 'jewelled crown').<ref>{{Cite web|title=Royal Crown (With an ornamental hairpin) : Naha City Historical Museum|url=http://www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp/en/archives/item1/2138|access-date=2021-12-26|website=www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp}}</ref> Replica of the crown of the Kings of Ryukyu File:Zhong Shan Chuan Xin Lu Clothes.jpg|Ryukyu clothing called {{transliteration|ryu|jin}} ({{lang|ryu|衣}}) which covers the upper body. Illustration from the {{transliteration|zh|Zhongshan chuanxin lu}}, 1721. File:文１a.jpg|Traditional clothing of the Ryukyuan people, 1800s. File:琉球人.jpg|Ryukyuan people, from the {{nihongo||世界人物図巻|Sekaijimbutsu emaki}}, possibly beginning of Edo period. </gallery>
=== 17th century === After Satsuma subjugated the Ryukyu Islands in 1609, Satsuma controlled the islands and intentionally ceded to China's ritual authority over the Ryukyu Kingdom in order to win the economic profit from the tribute trade with China.<ref name=":1" /> The Ryukyu Kingdom continued to pay tribute to the Ming and Qing dynasties in China,<ref name=":4">{{Cite book|title=Self-determinable Development of Small Islands|date=2016|others=Masahide Ishihara, Eiichi Hoshino, Yōko Fujita|isbn=978-981-10-0132-1|location=Singapore|pages=56|oclc=952246912}}</ref> but they were also forced to pay tribute to the {{transliteration|ja|shōgun}} as well.<ref name=":3">{{Cite book|last=Howard|first=Michael C.|title=Transnationalism in ancient and medieval societies : the role of cross-border trade and travel|date=2012|publisher=McFarland|isbn=978-0-7864-9033-2|location=Jefferson, N.C.|pages=151|oclc=779849477}}</ref> In order to hide the dual sovereignty, the Ryukyuans were forbidden from being assimilated into Japanese culture, and they were encouraged to continue wearing their traditional clothing and speak in the local language.<ref name=":1" /><ref name=":5">{{Cite book|last=McCormack|first=Gavan|title=Resistant Islands : Okinawa Confronts Japan and the United States|date=2018|others=Satoko Oka Norimatsu|isbn=978-1-4422-1563-4|edition=Second|location=Lanham|pages=251|oclc=1089884872}}</ref> When Ryukyuan envoys would visit Edo, they had to wear Chinese clothing.<ref name=":5">{{Cite book|last=McCormack|first=Gavan|title=Resistant Islands : Okinawa Confronts Japan and the United States|date=2018|others=Satoko Oka Norimatsu|isbn=978-1-4422-1563-4|edition=Second|location=Lanham|pages=251|oclc=1089884872}}</ref> The reigns of Shō Tei to Shō Eki and Shō Kei were eras of strong Japanese influence, although the sentiment of the Ryukyu people were pro-Chinese.<ref name=":11" />
Following the fall of the Ming dynasty, the Ryukyu continued to follow the Ming dynasty's court fashion and styled their own clothing with dragon emblems which were bestowed by the Qing dynasty.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Akamine|first=Mamoru|title=The Ryukyu Kingdom : cornerstone of East Asia|date=2017|others=Lina Terrell, Robert N. Huey|isbn=978-0-8248-5520-8|location=Honolulu|pages=128–129|oclc=964698884}}</ref>
From 1681, men of ranks started to wear {{transliteration|ja|hachimaki}},<ref name=":1" /> which was folded 7 or 9 times at the forehead and 11 or 12 at the back.<ref name=":11" /> It also became a social status marker in the court hierarchy, as the colours of the {{transliteration|ja|hachimaki}} and the ways of folding it were strictly regulated by rigid rules.<ref name=":11" />
=== Annexation of the Ryukyu Kingdom ===
Japanese influences increased from the year 1874, when the last King was taken prisoner in Tokyo and when Japan forbade the exchange of envoys with China.<ref name=":1" /> The Ryukyu Kingdom was eventually abolished and the islands were annexed without consent by the Meiji government.<ref name=":1" /> Between the years 1879 and 1895, many cultural and institutional characteristics of the Ryuku kingdom were preserved.<ref name=":2">{{Cite book|title=The international handbook of the demography of race and ethnicity|date=2015|others=Rogelio Saenz, David G. Embrick, Néstor Rodriguez|isbn=978-90-481-8891-8|location=Dordrecht|pages=228|oclc=910845577}}</ref> However, following the arrival of Governor Shigeru Narahara, an aggressive form of cultural assimilation took place in the form of Japanization, leading to traditional Ryukyuan clothing being discouraged.<ref name=":2">{{Cite book|title=The international handbook of the demography of race and ethnicity|date=2015|others=Rogelio Saenz, David G. Embrick, Néstor Rodriguez|isbn=978-90-481-8891-8|location=Dordrecht|pages=228|oclc=910845577}}</ref> The clothing of the Ryukyu people were influenced by the Japanese, and Japanese-style clothing was increasingly adopted.<ref name=":1" /> After the World War II, Ryukyuan bridal clothing did not show any native Ryukyuan influence, and was instead of Japanese origin.<ref name=":1" /><gallery> File:うやんまあの図a.jpg|Ryukyu people, Edo period. File:王子婦人大礼服、通常服之図.jpg|Princess dress, 19th century File:Traditional clothes of Ryukyu.jpg|Traditional Ryukyuan clothes, 19th century. File:Dress of Oji and Aji.jpg|{{transliteration|ryu|Oji}} (ordinary dress) and {{transliteration|ryu|aji}} (court dress), 19th century. File:美女の図2.jpg|Ryukyu woman wearing {{transliteration|ryu|watansu}} over {{transliteration|ryu|dujin}} and {{transliteration|ryu|kakan}}, 19th century. File:MET DP213485.jpg|Ryukyu {{transliteration|ryu|watansu}} made of {{transliteration|ryu|bingata}}, 19th century File:MET LC-2001 428 56-001.jpg|Ryukyu {{transliteration|ryu|watansu}} made of {{transliteration|ryu|bingata}}, 19th century
</gallery>
== Types of garment and headwear ==
* {{transliteration|ryu|Dujin}} – a cross-collared upper garment. For women, it was worn along with the {{transliteration|ryu|kakan}}.<ref name=":16">{{Cite web |title=Costume in BINGATA dyeing : Naha City Historical Museum |url=http://www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp/en/archives/item1/2226 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220410174003/http://www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp/en/archives/item1/2226 |archive-date=2022-04-10 |access-date=2022-01-09 |website=www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp}}</ref> For men, it was used as ceremonial undergarment along with trousers; it was only used by the members of the royal family and the upper class warrior families. The emperor wore it under the {{transliteration|ryu|touishou}}.<ref name=":9" /> *{{transliteration|ja|Hakama}} – trousers.<ref name=":9" /> *{{transliteration|ryu|Hanagasa}} – {{lit|flower hat}}, it is worn women by women when performing traditional Ryukyuan dance, {{transliteration|ryu|Yotsudake}}.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Okinawa traditional actress Stage props explained|url=http://www.japanupdate.com/2012/09/okinawa-traditional-actress-stage-props-explained/|access-date=2022-01-08|website=Japan Update|language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=Ryukyu Buyo Dance {{!}} URASHIMA DINNER THEATER|url=https://www.urashima.jp/en/dance|access-date=2022-01-08|website=www.urashima.jp}}</ref> *{{transliteration|ryu|Hooikakan}} – a pleated skirt with a long train; it was reserved for ladies of the upper class.<ref name=":19">{{Cite book |last=Sakihara |first=Mitsugu |title=Okinawan-English wordbook : a short lexicon of the Okinawan language with English definitions and Japanese cognates |date=2006 |others=Stewart Curry, Leon Angelo Serafim, Shigehisa Karimata, Moriyo Shimabukuro |isbn=0-8248-3051-2 |location=Honolulu |oclc=65175498}}</ref>{{Rp|page=65}} *{{transliteration|ryu|Kakan}} – a pleated underskirt for women;<ref name=":19" />{{Rp|page=83}} it was worn with {{transliteration|ryu|dujin}}.<ref name=":16" /> A red {{transliteration|ryu|Kakan}} was also worn by the king during his enthronement under the {{transliteration|ryu|Touishou}}.<ref name=":21" /> * {{transliteration|ryu|Tanashi}} – a summer robe worn by women of the royal family.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Feature Exhibition: TEWAZA Recreating Ryukyuan Handicraft Culture|url=https://www.kyuhaku.jp/en/exhibition/exhibition_pre174.html|access-date=2022-01-09|website=Kyushu National Museum|language=en}}</ref> * {{transliteration|ryu|Tamanchaabui/ Hibekan}} – Royal crown, part of formal clothing for the Ryukyu king; it was bestowed by the Chinese Emperor. It was worn on important events, such as Sappo (enthronement of the King) and on the New Year's celebration.<ref name=":20" /> *{{transliteration|ryu|Touishou}} – also known as {{transliteration|ryu|hibenfuku}} or {{transliteration|ryu|umanton}}, a type ceremonial clothing bestowed by the Chinese emperor, it was worn by the King of Ryukyu. It was worn with the {{transliteration|ryu|Tamanchaabui/ Hibekan}}; {{transliteration|ryu|Touishou}} was worn over the {{transliteration|ryu|Dujin}} and red {{transliteration|ryu|Kakan}}.<ref name=":9" /><ref name=":8" /><ref name=":21" /> *{{transliteration|ryu|Watajin}} – a lined or padded winter wear for both men and women; it was a form of formal wear in winter.<ref name=":19" />{{Rp|page=208}}<ref name=":8" /> *{{transliteration|ryu|Watansu}} – a lined winter robe which could be made of {{transliteration|ryu|bingata}}; it was worn on top of {{transliteration|ryu|dujin}} and {{transliteration|ryu|kakan}}.<ref name=":15" /><ref>{{Cite web |title=Lined costume in BINGATA dyeing. : Naha City Historical Museum |url=http://www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp/en/archives/item1/2200 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220410174342/http://www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp/en/archives/item1/2200 |archive-date=2022-04-10 |access-date=2022-01-09 |website=www.rekishi-archive.city.naha.okinawa.jp}}</ref> It was worn by the royal family.<ref name=":18" />
== Gallery == <gallery> File:Okinawa dress.jpg File:Dancing Sevillanas in Ryukyu (Okinawa) wear.jpg File:Chapéu de Ryukyu Buyo.JPG|{{transliteration|ryu|Hanagasa}}, a coloured hat worn by women when performing a traditional Okinawan dance called {{transliteration|ryu|Yotsudake}}.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Dance & Music Elements {{!}} Senju Kai Hawaii ~ Okinawan Heritage|url=https://senjukaihawaii.com/about/okinawan-dance-music/|access-date=2022-01-08|website=Senju Kai Hawaii|language=en-US}}</ref> </gallery>
== See also == * {{transliteration|zh|Hanfu}} * Kimono * Kariyushi shirt
== References == {{reflist}}
Category:Japanese clothing Category:Ryukyuan culture