{{Short description|Fabric woven on a narrow loom}} {{distinguish|text = inkle weaving, the making of very narrow cloth bands}} [[File:BackstrapUruapan (darken background).jpg|right|thumb|upright=1.7|Weaving narrow cloth on a back-strap loom. A lone weaver without a flying shuttle must be able to span the cloth they are weaving with their arms.]] '''"Narrow cloth"''' ('''streit''', '''strait''',<ref name=enbrit/> '''narrow ware articles''', '''narrow ware woven'''<ref>{{Cite book |last=Appeals |first=United States Court of Customs and Patent |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=tMkzAAAAMAAJ&q=Narrow+cloth+was+a+trading+term&pg=PA121 |title=Cases Decided in United States Court of Customs and Patent Appeals: Customs Cases Adjudged in the Court of Customs and Patent Appeals |date=1971 |publisher=The Court |pages=121 |language=en}}</ref>) is cloth of a comparatively narrow width, generally less than a human armspan; precise definitions vary.
Historically, human factors and ergonomics limited the width that could practically be woven by a single weaver on a handloom. The weaver had to be able to reach both edges of the cloth, so they could throw the shuttle through the shed. A weaver thus could not weave a bolt wider than their armspan.<ref name=about_size>{{cite web |title=About the size of tanmono (a roll of kimono cloth) |url=https://hirotatsumugi.jp/blogen/post-5579 |website=hirotatsumugi.jp |publisher=Hirota Tsumugi |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://archive.today/20200704203011/https://hirotatsumugi.jp/blogen/post-5579 |archive-date=4 July 2020 |access-date=27 January 2020}}</ref> So cloth was typically made in narrow widths on narrow-width handlooms.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Courts |first=Witney (England) Borough |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=L5BQAQAAMAAJ&q=narrow+cloth |title=Oxfordshire Record Society |date=1985 |publisher=Produced for the Society by A. Sutton |isbn=978-0-902509-18-4 |pages=LXXCV, XCV |language=en}}</ref><ref name=":0" />
Wider widths once had to be woven with a person on each side of the loom, usually the master weaver and an apprentice, throwing the shuttle back and forth between them.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Bodey |first=Hugh |url=http://archive.org/details/textiles0000bode |title=Textiles |date=1976 |publisher=London : B. T. Batsford |others=Internet Archive |isbn=978-0-7134-3052-3}}</ref>{{Rp|page=29}}<ref name="about_size"/> In 1733, the flying shuttle was invented. Flying shuttles made it possible for a single hand weaver to weave widths greater than their armspan, halving the labour required to make broadcloth.<ref>{{cite web|title=History of technology|url=http://www.historyworld.net/wrldhis/PlainTextHistories.asp?groupid=1233&HistoryID=ab11>rack=pthc#ixzz4ZpkXsrFG|website=www.historyworld.net|access-date=2 November 2017}}</ref> Fabric widths became limited by the impracticality of transporting very wide bolts and looms.
Various maximum measures of breadth were used to legally define narrow cloth, and "broadcloth" was often regulated to be twice the width of narrow cloth {{see below|historic definitions, below}}. The word "broadcloth" was originally used just as an antonym to "narrow cloth", but later came to mean a particular type of cloth (see broadcloth).<ref name=enbrit/> The 1909 Webster's dictionary (as reprinted in 1913) defines broadcloth as "A fine smooth-faced woolen cloth for men's garments, usually of double width".<ref name=websters>{{cite web |title=Webster's 1913 |url=https://www.websters1913.com/words/Broadcloth |website=www.websters1913.com}},</ref> thus giving both the old breadth-based distinction and the newer definition based on the type of cloth. '''Broadwoven''' and '''narrow woven''' are unambiguous terms, used by the US government.<ref name=broadwoven/>
<gallery mode=packed heights=200> File:Raphia weaver in Babouantou.jpg|Weaving raffia on an upright loom in Babouantou, Cameroon. File:SantaMariadelRio145.webm|Weaving a rebozo on a backstrap loom in Santa María del Río, San Luis Potosí, Mexico File:Weaving demonstrated on a historic loom in Leiden.webm|A weaver passes the shuttle through the shed of her treadle loom. File:Making of Jamdani-8.jpg|Weaving jamdani on a two-person loom. File:Narrow shuttle loom.webm|An early fully-automated loom. The arms at the sides can be seen swinging to bash the flying shuttle back and forth. </gallery>
== Significance == Due to the narrower width, they were less prone to shrinkage than broadcloths and thus required less milling.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Brooks |first=Richard |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=vwbROFU4W_0C&dq=narrow+cloth&pg=PA8 |title=Observations on Milling Broad and Narrow Cloth, &c: Shewing I. The Many Destructive Errors that Attend the Common Method of Milling, and Reading Or Tighting of Cloth, During Its Milling. And, II. The Many Advantages that Accrue, Instead Thereof, from the Use of a New Instrument, Called a Regulator. To which is Annexed, A Certificate Signed by Several of the Most Eminent Clothiers in the Superfine Trade. By Richard Brooks, Clothier, Inventor of the Said Regulator, and Patentee, at the Devizes, in the County of Wilts |date=1743 |publisher=author in the year |language=en}}</ref>{{Rp|page=8}}
== Historic trade definitions == In England, efforts were made to standardize the width of cloth, to promote mercery. The first on record is the Assize of Cloth (also called the Assize of Measures), which was first introduced in the reign of Richard I (1189–1199). It defined two English ells (then {{convert|74|in|cm|disp=comma}}<ref name=enbrit_ell>Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Weights and Measures" (free fulltext), from the ''Encyclopædia Britannica''. Vol. 01 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press.</ref>{{better source needed|date=January 2023}}) as the only legal breadth for woolen cloth. Article 35 of Magna Carta reaffirmed this standard;<ref name=enbrit/> it said "There shall be standard measures of wine, ale, and corn (the London quarter), throughout the kingdom. There shall also be a standard width of dyed [generally wollen] cloth, russet, and haberject, namely two ells within the selvedges. Weights are to be standardised similarly."<ref>Wikisource:Magna_Carta_(trans._Davis), 1963 translation by G. R. C. Davis</ref> In the reign of Edward I (1272 - 1307), an official called the king's alnager was appointed to enforce the law, and all towns were required to have an accurate ellwand (measuring stick one ell in length).<ref>{{cite web |url=http://content-www.cricinfo.com/ci/content/story/89685.html |title=The measurements of cricket |author=AR Littlewood |publisher=ESPN cricinfo }}</ref><ref name=enbrit/> These rules were repealed in 1353, because imports and varying types of wool made them impractical.<ref name=enbrit/> In 1665, in the reign of Charles II, the office of alnager was revived. Two standard widths were defined: widths of {{convert|2|yd|cm}} were called broadcloth, and widths of {{convert|1|yd|cm}}, narrow cloth. The office of the alnager was abolished again in 1699.<ref name=enbrit>Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Alnage" (free fulltext), from the ''Encyclopædia Britannica''. Vol. 01 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 719; lines two and three from end. <q>Owing to the introduction of the alternative standard, a distinction arose between “broadcloth” (cloth of two yards) and “streit” or “strait” (narrow cloth of one yard).</q></ref> See Weights and Measures Acts (UK)#England for details.
In the late-sixteen- and seventeen-hundreds, English merchants exported broadcloth to both the Levant and the Indies. This cloth was defined as having a breadth greater than a {{convert|1.25|yd|cm}}. Anything narrower was narrow cloth.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Chaudhuri |first=K. N. |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=9xt7Fgzq9e8C&dq=narrow+cloth&pg=PA222 |title=The Trading World of Asia and the English East India Company: 1660-1760 |date=2006-11-23 |publisher=Cambridge University Press |isbn=978-0-521-03159-2 |pages=222 |language=en}}</ref>
James Bischoff noted in his 1842 publication, ''A Comprehensive History of the Woollen, and Worsted'' ''Manufactures'', that British woolens were imported into Ireland with two different descriptions, broadcloth and narrow cloth. These were priced (per yard length) at six shillings fourpence and three shillings eightpence, respectively. He did not mention whether the two were distinguished by width,<ref>{{Cite book |last=Bischoff |first=James |url=https://archive.org/details/acomprehensiveh03biscgoog |title=A Comprehensive History of the Woollen and Worsted Manufactures, and the Natural and Commercial History of Sheep, from the Earliest Records to the Present Period |date=1842 |publisher=Smith, Elder |language=en|quote= There are two descriptions at woollen goods exported to Ireland, one broad cloth, the other narrow cloth. The average price of narrow cloth I estimate at three shillings and four pence per yard ; the lowest general price being one shilling and eight pence per yard. The average price of broad cloth exported to Ireland I should estimate at six shillings and eight pence per yard. }}</ref>{{Rp|page=326}} but the doubling of price suggests that broadcloth was similar to narrow cloth except for being twice the width.
In the United States in the early 19-hundreds, fabrics with a width of less than {{convert|29|in|cm}} were classed as narrow cloth; wider fabrics were classed as broadcloth.<ref name="cloth_dict">{{Cite book |last=Baker |first=William Henry |url=http://archive.org/details/clothesdictionar00bake |title=Clothes dictionary; |date=1901 |publisher=Chicago, Ill., U.S.A., Cahn, Wampold & co. |others=The Library of Congress |pages=27 |quote=''Narrow Cloth — Trade term for fabrics less than 29 inches wide ; wider cloths called broad''}}</ref>{{Rp|page=27}}<ref name=":0">{{Cite book |last=Murphy |first=William S. |url=http://archive.org/details/textileindustrie06murp |title=The textile industries : a practical guide to fibres, yarns & fabrics in every branch of textile manufacture, including preparation of fibres, spinning, doubling, designing, weaving, bleaching, printing, dyeing and finishing |date=1910 |publisher=London : The Gresham Publishing Company |others=University of Massachusetts Dartmouth Claire T. Carney Library |pages=20}}</ref> The American 1909 Webster's dictionary (as reprinted in 1913) defines broadcloth as {{convert|1.5|yd|cm}}, and narrow cloth as {{convert|0.75|yd|cm}}, but also gives the newer definition based on the type of cloth.
In the 1990s, the US government defined "broadwoven fabrics" and "narrow woven fabrics", with a breadth cutoff of 30 centimeters (about 12 inches) (per the Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States). By this definition, the US government estimates that 70-75% of all cloth production globally, by weight, is broadwoven.<ref name=broadwoven>Freund, Kimberlie and Norton, Marjorie J.T., ''Broadwoven Fabrics'', USITC Publication 3410: 4 {{ISBN|1-4289-5826-6}}. Free public-domain fulltext.</ref>
== Types and uses == Narrow-loom cloth is still made by in artisanal weaving. Traditional-format textiles in narrow widths are also machine-made. These are used from making traditional garments and other traditional textile items.
<gallery mode=packed heights=150> File:Iyo-Kasuri 1 (Matsuyama City).JPG|Tanmono, traditional narrow Japanese fabric bolts. This is cotton dyed with indigo before weaving (kasuri) Behind is a yukata (type of kimono) made from this cloth. File:Yokohama Silk Museum 020.JPG|A museum model: hand-weaving tanmono File:Hand loom Weaving in Hooghly District 12.jpg|This weaver is weaving a piece of cloth about as wide as he can span. Hooghly district, West Bengal. File:Saree Weaving by Handloom 3.jpg|Saris often use cloth a bit wider than the wearer's waist height, and may, as here, be close to the maximum width a weaver can span. Mothkur, Telangana State, India File:Geringsing_back-strap_loom.jpg|Preparing to weave geringsing on a back-strap loom. Geringseng is a culturally-significant double ikat fabric of Bali.<!--; girls used a variety (anteng) as a breast cloth-- relevant? --><ref>{{Cite book|last=Fischer|first=Joseph|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=IefbAAAAMAAJ&q=Geringsing+cloths+is+woven+on+a+narrow+back-strap+looms.|title=Threads of Tradition: Textiles of Indonesia and Sarawak : Lowie Museum of Anthropology, University Art Museum, Berkeley, University of California, Berkeley, California|date=1979|publisher=University of California|pages=37|language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|last1=Hauser-Schaublin|first1=Brigitta|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=0AI4AQAAIAAJ&q=as+breast+cloths+by+women+but+with+the+fringe+cut+(anteng)|title=Balinese Textiles|last2=Hauser-Schäublin|first2=Brigitta|last3=Nabholz-Kartaschoff|first3=Marie-Louise|last4=Ramseyer|first4=Urs|date=1997|publisher=Periplus Editions (HK) Limited|isbn=978-962-593-158-6|pages=120|language=en}}</ref> File:Alat Tenun.jpg|Weaving narrow cloth in Indonesia File:Karen Weaver.jpg|Traditional Karen weaving, 2006 File:Li Textiles.jpg|Traditional Hlai narrow cloth brocades are woven on a bamboo backstrap loom braced with the feet File:Art du tissage des Li.jpg|Weaving traditional Hlai narrow cloth File:Backstrap loom.jpg|Weaving narrow cloth on a back-strap loom in Guatemala; finished narrow cloth is hung above File:TexFestivalActopan045.webm|Traditional Chiapas weaving, Mexico. File:BogolanMali32.JPG|Weaving bogolan in Mali. Note toggle treadles. File:Mudcloth-005.jpg|A bogolan garment. File:Flying loom.jpg|Weaving adire cloth in Nigeria File:Adire Selection.jpg|Adire cloth for sale File:Kenteweaving.jpg|Weaving kente in Ghana. File:Agbamekevor2 (cropped).jpg|A kente garment. File:Silk Loom (5453100710).jpg|Weaving silk in Herat, Afghanistan File:Weaving a traditional Bulgarian wool apron on a loom.jpg|Weaving an ornamental woolen apron in Bulgaria File:Bäuerliche Leinenweberei - 4. Die Herstellung von Leinwand.webm|Weaving linen from flax stems (narration in German) File:Replica Roman House - weaving on a warp-weighted loom (cropped).jpg|Weaving on a warp-weighted loom; replica of Ancient Rome </gallery>
== References == {{Reflist}} {{Wiktionary|narrow cloth}}
==External links== *Freund, Kimberlie and Norton, Marjorie J.T., ''Broadwoven Fabrics'', USITC Publication 3410: 4 {{ISBN|1-4289-5826-6}}. Free public-domain fulltext.
Category:Woven fabrics