Malahai

{{Short description|Historical headgear from Central Asia}} {{Redirect2|Malacai|Malakhai|the band|Malachai (band)}} {{Use mdy dates|date=January 2023}} {{Use American English|date=January 2023}} [[File:Казахский воин.png|thumb|A Kazakh man wearing a malahai, depicted in an early-19th-century painting]] The '''malahai'''{{Ref label|A|a|none}} ({{langx|ru|link=no|малаха́й}} or {{langx|ru|малакай|label=none}},{{Ref label|B|b|none}} {{langx|kk|малақай}}) is a historical headgear originating in present-day Kazakhstan, which was adopted in some of other regions of Central Asia and worn throughout the Russian Empire from the mid-18th to mid-19th centuries. It is a fur hat with a noticeably high conical, cylindrical,<ref name="Бобров"/> or quadrangular<ref name="auto">{{cite book|last=Шангина|first=И.И.|title=Русский традиционный быт|trans-title=Russian Traditional Life|language=ru|location=Saint Petersburg |url=https://archive.org/details/r0sbyt/page/550|publisher=Азбука-классика (Azbuka-Attikus Publishing Group) |date=2003|page=550|isbn=535200337X|via=Internet Archive|access-date=December 21, 2022|script-quote=ru:"Он представлял собой шапку с четырехугольным, (...) остроконечным верхом из сукна и с четырьмя клапанами."|trans-quote=It was a hat with a quadrangular, or (...) pointed top of cloth and four flaps.}}</ref> crown{{Ref label|C|c|none}} and flaps that are typically four: two long side-flaps covering the ears, a wide rear one covering the neck and shoulders, and a short front one functioning as a visor. It is lined with furs of diverse animals, which include badger, fox, and wolf.

Worn by men in winter to protect themselves against the cold and withstand the elements on the road, the headgear also served as a soft protective helmet against bladed weapons.<ref name="Бобров">{{cite journal|title=Казахская воинская шапка «Малакай» XVIII-XIX веков|trans-title=Kazakh Military Cap "Malakai" 18th–19th Centuries|first=Л.А.|last=Бобров|journal=Археология и этнография|year=2012|volume=11|issue=7|language=ru|url=https://cyberleninka.ru/article/n/kazahskaya-voinskaya-shapka-malakay-xviii-xix-vekov|publisher=Novosibirsk State University|series=История, филология|access-date=December 21, 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200325190630/https://cyberleninka.ru/article/n/kazahskaya-voinskaya-shapka-malakay-xviii-xix-vekov|archive-date=March 25, 2020|page=220|issn=1818-7919}}</ref> It was worn by women in some parts of Russia.<ref name="мужской"/> Among Old Believers it was proscribed over religious reasons.<ref name="Шапочный"/><ref name="Селищев"/>

== Etymology ==

The etymology of the word ''malahai'' is disputed.<ref name="DJAPAROVA"/> Although most philologists agree that it was derived from the Mongolian word {{lang|mn|malgai}} ({{langx|mn|{{linktext|малгай}}|label=none}} or ''{{lang|mn|malaɣai̯}}'') meaning 'hat', they disagree on how the word came to the Russian language.<ref name="DJAPAROVA">{{cite journal|first=Б.Б.|last=Джапарова|url=http://nbisu.moy.su/_ld/24/2454_IGUDJAPAROVAB19.pdf |title=Этимологический аспект в толковании. Проблема этимологических помет |trans-title=Etymological aspect in interpretation: The problem of etymological marks|journal=Вестник Иссык-Кульского университета |issue=3|year=1999|pages=135–136|language=ru|access-date=December 21, 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181209123644/http://nbisu.moy.su/_ld/24/2454_IGUDJAPAROVAB19.pdf|archive-date=December 9, 2018}}</ref> The wide distribution of the word in the Turkic languages led some to theorize that it had entered Russian via Turkic—according to Hungarian linguist Éva Csáki, Manchurian speakers loaned the Mongolian word without ''{{lang|mn|-i}}'' and the word regained ''{{lang|mn|-i}}'' only after it entered the Kipchak languages<ref name="Csáki_145"/>—but others believe that the word had come from Manchurian and Mongolian speakers living in southeastern Siberia and then the word entered, on the contrary, Turkic via Russian.<ref name="DJAPAROVA"/>

== Design and materials ==

The extant images of Kazakh men wearing malahais were created in the 18th and 19th centuries by Russian, Western European, and Qing-dynasty Chinese artists and, toward the end of the 19th century, photographed by Russian officials, soldiers, and travelers.<ref name="Бобров p213">{{cite journal|title=Казахская воинская шапка «Малакай» XVIII-XIX веков|trans-title=Kazakh Military Cap "Malakai" 18th–19th Centuries|first=Л.А.|last=Бобров|journal=Археология и этнография|year=2012|volume=11|issue=7|language=ru|url=https://cyberleninka.ru/article/n/kazahskaya-voinskaya-shapka-malakay-xviii-xix-vekov|publisher=Novosibirsk State University|series=История, филология|access-date=December 22, 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200325190630/https://cyberleninka.ru/article/n/kazahskaya-voinskaya-shapka-malakay-xviii-xix-vekov|archive-date=March 25, 2020|page=213|issn=1818-7919}}</ref> {{As of|2012}}, seven authentic malahais with varying degrees of damage survived in museums and private collections in China, Kazakhstan, and Russia.<ref name="Бобров p213"/>

Its crown was in general {{convert|40-50|cm}} high<ref name="Бобров p214"/> and either conical, cylindrical,<ref name="Бобров"/> or quadrangular.<ref name="auto"/> The headgear typically had four flaps and the front one, rectangular and shorter than the rest, was habitually folded upward and only lowered to cover the wearer's forehead during severe cold snaps or snowstorms.<ref>{{cite book|last=Шангина|first=И.И.|title=Русский традиционный быт|trans-title=Russian Traditional Life|language=ru|location=Saint Petersburg |url=https://archive.org/details/r0sbyt/page/550|publisher=Азбука-классика (Azbuka-Attikus Publishing Group) |date=2003|page=550|isbn=535200337X|via=Internet Archive|access-date=December 22, 2022|script-quote=ru:"Передний клапан, обычно невысокий, прямоугольный, (...) опускался на лоб только во время сильных морозов или пурги."|trans-quote=The front flap, usually low and rectangular, (...) was lowered to the forehead only during severe frosts or blizzards.}}</ref> The side-flaps or "ears" ({{ill|naushi|ru|Науши}}) were tied together either on top of the wearer's chin or under the chin, with leather straps or ribbons sewn on the flaps.<ref>{{cite book|last=Шангина|first=И.И.|title=Русский традиционный быт|trans-title=Russian Traditional Life|language=ru|location=Saint Petersburg |url=https://archive.org/details/r0sbyt/page/550|publisher=Азбука-классика (Azbuka-Attikus Publishing Group) |date=2003|page=550|isbn=535200337X|via=Internet Archive|access-date=December 22, 2022|script-quote=ru:"К боковым клапанам пришивали ремешки или тесемки для завязывания малахая."|trans-quote=The side flaps had straps or ribbons sewn on them to tie up the malahai.}}</ref> The wide rear-flap covered the wearer's neck and shoulders. Malahai was made of sheepskin, deerskin, and calfskin, and lined with furs of diverse animals such as beaver, fox, badger, and wolf,<ref name="Шангина material"/> while its outermost layer was made of cloth,<ref name="Шангина material"/> brocade,<ref name="Бобров p214"/> silk,<ref name="Бобров p214"/> or velvet.<ref name="Шангина material">{{cite book|last=Шангина|first=И.И.|title=Русский традиционный быт|trans-title=Russian Traditional Life|language=ru|location=Saint Petersburg |url=https://archive.org/details/r0sbyt/page/550|publisher=Азбука-классика (Azbuka-Attikus Publishing Group) |date=2003|page=550|isbn=535200337X|via=Internet Archive|access-date=December 21, 2022|script-quote=ru:"Его изготавливали из овчины, телячьей, оленьей шкуры, меха лисицы, бобра, барсука, волка, а также из сукна, верверета."|trans-quote=It was made of sheepskin, calfskin, deerskin, furs of fox, beaver, badger, wolf, as well as cloth and velvet.}}</ref>

== In Russia ==

Malahai became part of the Russian clothing in the mid-18th century after the Bashkirs and Kalmyks introduced the headgear to the country.<ref>{{cite book|last=Шангина|first=И.И.|title=Русский традиционный быт|trans-title=Russian Traditional Life|language=ru|location=Saint Petersburg |url=https://archive.org/details/r0sbyt/page/551|publisher=Азбука-классика (Azbuka-Attikus Publishing Group) |date=2003|page=551|isbn=535200337X|via=Internet Archive|access-date=December 21, 2022|script-quote=ru:"В состав русского костюма вошел в середине ХVIII в. (...) что он был заимствован русскими у башкир и калмыков."|trans-quote=In the middle of the 18th century, it became part of the Russian clothing. (...) the Russians borrowed it from the Bashkirs and Kalmyks.}}</ref> By the mid-19th century, its use had spread throughout Siberia and European Russia; however, before the 19th century ended, it had been mostly replaced by ushanka in the Russian Empire.<ref>{{cite book|last=Шангина|first=И.И.|title=Русский традиционный быт|trans-title=Russian Traditional Life|language=ru|location=Saint Petersburg |url=https://archive.org/details/r0sbyt/page/551|publisher=Азбука-классика (Azbuka-Attikus Publishing Group) |date=2003|page=551|isbn=535200337X|via=Internet Archive|access-date=December 21, 2022|script-quote=ru:"В середине ХIХ в. малахай бытовал фактически на всей территории Европейской России и в Сибири. Во второй половине XIX в. был вытеснен ''шапкой ушанкой''."|trans-quote=In the middle of the 19th century, malahai was practically worn throughout European Russia and Siberia. In the second half of the 19th century it was superseded by ''ushanka''.}}</ref>

In Russia, it was most often worn on the road and, as such, became a distinctive headgear of coachmen in Siberia.<ref>{{cite book|last=Шангина|first=И.И.|title=Русский традиционный быт|trans-title=Russian Traditional Life|language=ru|location=Saint Petersburg |url=https://archive.org/details/r0sbyt/page/551|publisher=Азбука-классика (Azbuka-Attikus Publishing Group) |date=2003|page=551|isbn=535200337X|via=Internet Archive|access-date=December 21, 2022|script-quote=ru:"Малахай, как правило, надевали только в дорогу. Он являлся также головным убором сибирских ямщиков."|trans-quote=Malahai, as a rule, was worn only on the road. It was also the headwear of Siberian coachmen.}}</ref> Worn by men in winter to protect themselves against the cold and withstand the elements, it also served as a soft protective helmet against bladed weapons.<ref name="Бобров"/> In some regions of Russia, it was worn by women as well.<ref name="мужской">{{cite book|last=Шангина|first=И.И.|title=Русский традиционный быт|trans-title=Russian Traditional Life|language=ru|location=Saint Petersburg |url=https://archive.org/details/r0sbyt/page/550|publisher=Азбука-классика (Azbuka-Attikus Publishing Group) |date=2003|page=550|isbn=535200337X|via=Internet Archive|access-date=December 21, 2022|script-quote=ru:"мужской головной убор, использовавшийся в некоторых районах России и как женский."|trans-quote=A men's headwear, and used in some regions of Russia as a women's headwear.}}</ref>

Among Old Believers—Eastern Orthodox Christians who maintain the liturgical and ritual practices of the Russian Orthodox Church as they were before the 17th-century reforms of Patriarch Nikon of Moscow—wearing malahai was forbidden because the wearer of the headgear cast a silhouette that allegedly resembled that of a horned demon,<ref name="Шапочный">{{cite web |url=https://ruvera.ru/articles/shapochnyj_razbor |title=Шапочный разбор|trans-title=Hats off|language=ru|date=May 28, 2020 |website=Старообрядческий сайт «Русская вера» (Old Believers website 'Russian Faith')|access-date=December 21, 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221010214239/https://ruvera.ru/articles/shapochnyj_razbor|archive-date=October 10, 2022|script-quote=ru:"В постановлениях поморских и федосеевских соборов (...) треухи и малахаи запрещены к ношению, потому что они напоминают силуэт беса."|trans-quote=In the rulings of the Pomorian and Fedoseevtsy councils, (...) {{ill|treuhi|ru|Треух}} and malahai are forbidden to wear as they resemble the silhouette of a demon.}}</ref> and some malahais were lined with wolf fur, which was proscribed for them to wear especially in group prayer meetings.<ref name="Селищев">{{cite web|first=Валерий|last=Селищев|url=https://ruvera.ru/articles/hristiyanskaya_odejda |title=О христианской одежде|trans-title=On Christian clothing|language=ru|website=Старообрядческий сайт «Русская вера» (Old Believers website 'Russian Faith')|date=December 11, 2017|access-date=December 21, 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221014095408/https://ruvera.ru/articles/hristiyanskaya_odejda|archive-date=October 14, 2022|script-quote=ru:"Запрещены для христиан лишь картузы и шапки — малахаи (...) Также шапки из собачьего и волчьего меха, особо для посещения соборной молитвы."|trans-quote=The only things forbidden for Christians are {{ill|kartuz|ru|Картуз}} and hats such as malahai (...) Also hats made of dog or wolf fur, especially for collective prayers.}}</ref>

== Explanatory notes == {{Refbegin}} '''a.''' {{Note label|A|a|none}} Variously romanized as ''malahai'',<ref>{{cite book|last=Eliade |first=Mircea |author-link=Mircea Eliade |title=Şamanismul şi tehnicile arhaice ale extazului |trans-title=Shamanism: Archaic Techniques of Ecstasy |translator-first1=Brândușa |translator-last1=Prelipceanu |translator-first2=Cezar |translator-last2=Baltag |translator-link2=Cezar Baltag |location=Bucharest |publisher=Humanitas |year=1997 |orig-date=1951 |page=154 |language=ro |quote=Şamanul (''baqça'') kazak-kirghiz "poartă pe cap tradiționalul ''malahai'', [...] |isbn=9732807156 |url=https://archive.org/details/MirceaEliadeSamanismulSiTehnicileArhaiceAleExtazului |via=Internet Archive |access-date=2023-08-17 }}</ref> ''malahay'',<ref name="Csáki_145"/> ''malakai'',<ref name="Бобров"/> ''malaxay'',<ref name="Csáki_145">{{cite book |title=Middle Mongolian Loan Words in Volga Kipchak Languages |pages=145–146 |chapter=89. ''malakay'' 'hat' < MMo ''malaγai'', ''malaqai'', ''maqalai'' |year=2006 |last=Csáki |first=Éva |publisher=Harrassowitz Verlag |location=Wiesbaden |isbn=9783447053815 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=qARHlq4kK5wC |access-date=2023-08-17 |via=Google Books }}</ref> ''malaqai'',<ref name="Csáki_145"/> ''malaqay'',<ref name="Csáki_145"/> ''malakaj'',<ref name="Csáki_145"/> and ''malakhai''<ref>{{cite book|title=The Economy and Material Culture of Russia, 1600–1725 |chapter=Clothing and Accessories |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=V1bCm-E251MC |first=Richard |last=Hellie |author-link=Richard Hellie |via=Google Books |access-date=2023-08-17 |page=366 |isbn=9780226326498 |date=June 15, 1999 |publisher=University of Chicago Press |location=Chicago and London }}</ref>

'''b.''' {{Note label|B|b|none}} Pronounced {{IPA|ru|məɫɐˈxaj|}} and {{IPA|ru|məɫəˈkəj|}} respectively

'''c.''' {{Note label|C|c|none}} The term ''malahai'' applies to the ones with high ({{convert|40-50|cm|disp=or}}<ref name="Бобров p214">{{cite journal|title=Казахская воинская шапка «Малакай» XVIII-XIX веков|trans-title=Kazakh Military Cap "Malakai" 18th–19th Centuries|first=Л.А.|last=Бобров|journal=Археология и этнография|year=2012|volume=11|issue=7|language=ru|url=https://cyberleninka.ru/article/n/kazahskaya-voinskaya-shapka-malakay-xviii-xix-vekov|publisher=Novosibirsk State University|series=История, филология|access-date=December 21, 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200325190630/https://cyberleninka.ru/article/n/kazahskaya-voinskaya-shapka-malakay-xviii-xix-vekov|archive-date=March 25, 2020|page=214|issn=1818-7919}}</ref>) crowns only; those with low crowns are called {{ill|tumaq|kk|Тымақ}}. {{Refend}}

== References == {{Reflist}}

Category:18th-century fashion Category:19th-century fashion Category:History of Asian clothing Category:Culture of Kazakhstan Category:Pointed hats Category:Russian clothing Category:Winter clothes