{{Short description|Fabric made by native Hawaiians}} {{other uses}} [[File:Alphonse Pellion, Îles Sandwich; Maisons de Kraïmokou, Premier Ministre du Roi; Fabrication des Étoffes (c. 1819, detail).jpg|thumb|Alphonse Pellion, Îles Sandwich; Maisons de Kraïmokou, Premier Ministre du Roi; Fabrication des Étoffes (c. 1819), Depicting High Chiefess Likelike, the wife of Kalanimoku beating kapa cloth.]] '''Kapa''' is a fabric made by native Hawaiians from the bast fibres of certain species of trees and shrubs in the orders Rosales and Malvales. The bark is beaten and felted to achieve a soft texture and dye stamped in geometric patterns.
==Description and uses== thumb|right|Hawaiian kapa, 18th century, Cook-Foster Collection at Georg-August University in Göttingen, Germany Similar to ''tapa'' found elsewhere in Polynesia (the Hawaiian phoneme {{IPA|/k/}} corresponds to {{IPA|/t/}} in most other Polynesian languages), kapa differs in the methods used in its creation. Kapa designs primarily consist of creative combinations of linear elements that cross and converge to form squares, triangles, chevrons, and diagonal forms, giving a feeling of boldness and directness.<ref>Kaeppler, Adrienne L. (1980). ''Kapa: Hawaiian Bark Cloth.'' Honolulu: Boom Books. p. 1.</ref> Kapa was used primarily for clothing like the ''malo'' worn by men as a loincloth and the ''pā{{okina}}ū'' worn by women as a wraparound. Kapa was also used for {{lang|haw|kīhei}}, a shawl or cape worn over one shoulder.<ref>{{cite web |title=kihei — Wehe²wiki² Hawaiian Language Dictionaries |url=https://hilo.hawaii.edu/wehe/?q=kihei |website=Wehewehe Wikiwiki |publisher=University of Hawaiʻi at Hilo |access-date=14 December 2021}}</ref> Other uses for kapa depended on caste and a person's place in ancient Hawaiian society.
''{{vanchor|Kapa moe}}'' (bed covers) were reserved for the ''ali{{okina}}i'' or chiefly caste—several layers of kapa would be stitched together at the edges to form a kapa moe. Kapa robes were used by ''kāhuna'' or priestly caste. Kapa was also used as banners where leis were hung from it and images of their gods were printed on it.<ref>Kuykendall, Ralph Simpson (1938). ''The Hawaiian Kingdom: Volume 1''. University of Hawaii Press. p. 8.</ref>
==Techniques== Cultural anthropologists over the course of the 20th century identified techniques in the creation of kapa that are unique to the Hawaiian Islands. ''Wauke'' (''Broussonetia papyrifera'') was the preferred source of bast fibres for kapa, but it was also made from ''{{okina}}ulu'' (''Artocarpus altilis''),<ref name="BishopUlu">{{cite web |url=http://www2.bishopmuseum.org/ethnobotanydb/resultsdetailed.asp?search=ulu |title=ʻulu |work=Hawaiian Ethnobotany Online Database |publisher=Bernice P. Bishop Museum |access-date=2009-03-12 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070702123318/http://www2.bishopmuseum.org/ethnobotanydb/resultsdetailed.asp?search=ulu |archive-date=2007-07-02 }}</ref> ''ōpuhe'' (''Urera'' spp.),<ref name="BishopOpuhe">{{cite web |url=http://www2.bishopmuseum.org/ethnobotanydb/resultsdetailed.asp?search=opuhe |title=opuhe, hopue (A. glabra), hona (U. glabra) |work=Hawaiian Ethnobotany Online Database |publisher=Bernice P. Bishop Museum |access-date=2009-03-12 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070702123723/http://www2.bishopmuseum.org/ethnobotanydb/resultsdetailed.asp?search=opuhe |archive-date=2007-07-02 }}</ref> ''ma{{okina}}aloa'' (''Neraudia melastomifolia''),<ref name="BishopMaaloa">{{cite web |url=http://www2.bishopmuseum.org/ethnobotanydb/resultsdetailed.asp?search=maaloa |title=maaloa, maoloa |work=Hawaiian Ethnobotany Online Database |publisher=Bernice P. Bishop Museum |access-date=2009-03-12 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070702122729/http://www2.bishopmuseum.org/ethnobotanydb/resultsdetailed.asp?search=maaloa |archive-date=2007-07-02 }}</ref> ''māmaki'' (''Pipturus albidus''),<ref name="BishopMamaki">{{cite web |url=http://data.bishopmuseum.org/ethnobotanydb/ethnobotany.php?b=d&ID=mamaki |title=mamaki, mamake, waimea (P. albidus on Kauai & P. ruber) |work=Hawaiian Ethnobotany Online Database |publisher=Bernice P. Bishop Museum |access-date=2009-03-12 }}</ref> ''{{okina}}ākala'' (''Rubus hawaiensis''), ''{{okina}}ākalakala'' (''R. macraei''), and ''hau'' (''Hibiscus tiliaceus'').<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.hawaiiforest.org/reports/Trad_Uses_of_Dry_Forest_Plants.pdf |title=Native Plants of Hawaiian Dry Forests and Traditional Uses for Them |publisher=Hawaiʻi Forest Industry Association |access-date=2009-03-12 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110726142127/http://www.hawaiiforest.org/reports/Trad_Uses_of_Dry_Forest_Plants.pdf |archive-date=2011-07-26 }}</ref> In the 18th century, pieces of kapa were often made of grooving or ribbing. It is done by pushing the dampened cloth into the grooves of a special board.<ref>Kaeppler, Adienne L. (1980). ''Kapa: Hawaiian Bark Cloth''. Honolulu: Boom Books. p. 4.</ref> The ''wauke'' tree is cut and soaked in water. It is then laid on a ''kua kūkū'' (polished stone tablet) and beaten with a ''hōhoa'' (rounded beater). After the first phase of beating, the kapa is transferred to a sacred house to be beaten a second time, but in a religious manner.
==Process== Each kapa manufacturer used an ''{{okina}}i{{okina}}e kūkū'', a beater with four flat sides that were each carved differently. Another way to carve the kapa is by starting on the four-sided affairs, with the coarsest grooves on one side used first in breaking down the bast, or wet bark. Then, the beating continued using two sides with finer grooves. Lastly, finishing touches were accomplished with the remaining smooth side of the beater.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Fullard-Leo |first1=Betty |title=Kapa |url=http://www.coffeetimes.com/kapa2.htm |website=Coffee Times |access-date=2010-11-09 |date=June 1998 |archive-date=2016-11-07 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161107071403/http://www.coffeetimes.com/kapa2.htm |url-status=dead }}</ref> The carvings left an impression in the cloth that was hers alone. After the European discovery of the Hawaiian Islands, Western traders travelled to Hawai{{okina}}i especially for kapa.
The process of making kapa was done primarily by women. Young girls would learn by helping their mothers, over time doing the majority of the work, and when older could make kapa by themselves.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Dunford |first1=Betty |last2=Andrew |first2=Lilinoe |last3=Ayau |first3=Miki'ala |last4=Honda |first4=Liana I. |last5=Williams |first5=Julie Stewart |title=The Hawaiians of Old |date=2002 |publisher=Bess Press Inc. |location=Honolulu, Hawaii |isbn=1573061379 |page=48 |edition=3rd}}</ref>
==See also== * Tapa cloth, similar fabric made elsewhere in Polynesia
==References== {{reflist}}
==Further reading== * Arkinstall, Patricia Lorraine (1966). ''A study of bark cloth from Hawaii, Samoa, Tonga and Fiji: an exploration of the regional development of distinctive styles of bark cloth and its relationship to other cultural factors''. Ithaca, N.Y.: Cornell University. * Brigham, William Tufts (1911). ''Ka hana kapa, the making of bark cloth in Hawaii''. Honolulu, Hawaii: Bishop Museum Press. * Kaeppler, Adrienne Lois (1975). ''The Fabrics of Hawaii (Bark Cloth)''. Leigh-on-Sea, England: F. Lewis. {{ISBN|9780853170365}}.
==External links== {{Commonscat}} * [https://web.archive.org/web/20070901234050/http://www.nma.gov.au/cook/places.php?place=Hawaii Cook-Foster Collection at Georg-August University in Göttingen, Germany] * [http://starbulletin.com/1999/06/07/features/story1.html Kapa Connection] * [http://www.kapahawaii.com/how-to-make-hawaiian-tapa.html Hawaiian Kapa Making] * [http://www.kapahawaii.com/about-hawaiian-tapa/history-of-hawaiian-kapa-tapa.html Hawaiian Kapa History] * [http://www.hawaiianartplaza.com/Contemporary_Hawaiian_Kapa_s/38.htm Contemporary Hawaiian Kapa] * [https://web.archive.org/web/20100531191900/http://www.mauimagazine.net/Maui-Magazine/January-February-2008/Kapa-Fabric-of-a-Culture/ "Kapa: Fabric of a Culture"] Article about the art of kapa making and kapa master Pua Van Dorpe by Rita Goldman. ''Maui No Ka 'Oi Magazine'' Vol.12, No.1 (January 2008) * [https://web.archive.org/web/20100823080055/http://www.mauimagazine.net/Maui-Magazine/January-February-2008/More-to-Learn/ "Kapa: More to Learn"] Pua Van Dorpe's kapa collection honoring 11 Maui chiefs. ''Maui No Ka 'Oi Magazine'' Vol.12, No.1 (January 2008) *[//www.womenfolk.com/quilting_history/hawaiian.htm History of Hawaiian quilting] *[https://web.archive.org/web/20070808124255/http://www.calacademy.org/research/anthropology/tap/ARCHIVE/2003/2003-05--kapa.html kapa moe]
{{Culture of Oceania}}
Category:Hawaiiana Category:Nonwoven fabrics Category:History of Oceanian clothing Category:Textile arts of Hawaii Category:Fiber plants