{{Short description|Silk headscarf tradition of Azerbaijan}} {{multiple issues| {{original research|date=January 2017}} {{refimprove|date=January 2017}} }} {{Use dmy dates|date=December 2014}} {{Infobox clothing type | name = Kelaghayi | image_file = Azerigirl ira.JPG | caption = Azerbaijani girl wearing kelaghai | type = Headgear | material = Silk | location = }} {{Infobox intangible heritage | Image = | Caption = | ICH = Traditional art and symbolism of Kelaghayi, making and wearing women’s silk headscarves | Country = Azerbaijan | ID = 00669 | Region = ENA | Year = 2014 | Session = 9th | List = Representative }} '''Kelaghayi''' ({{langx|az|Kəlağayı}}; {{Langx|hy|քալաղայ}}) or '''Hawri''' ({{langx|Ku|Hewrî or هەوری}})'''<ref name=":02">{{Cite web |last=Taufiq Wahby and C. J. Edmonds |title=A Kurdish-English Dictionary |url=https://lex.vejin.net/ck/def/wahby-edmonds/hewr%C3%AE}}</ref>'''<ref>{{Cite book |last=Mukriyani |first=Hazhar |url=https://lex.vejin.net/en/def/henbaneborine/%D9%87%DB%95%D9%88%D8%B1%DB%8C |title=Henbane Borine Dictionary |publisher=Soroush |publication-date=1990}}</ref> also known as "charghat" ({{lang|az|çarğət}} from Persian {{lang|fa|چارقد}}), is a traditional Azerbaijani<ref name="iranica">{{cite encyclopedia|title= CLOTHING xxi. Turkic and Kurdish clothing of Azerbaijan|author= P. A. Andrews And M. Andrews|publisher= Encyclopædia Iranica|date= December 15, 1992|url=https://iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xxi|pages= 836–840|volume= V|quote= It is the headscarf (kalaḡay, Pers. kalāḡī), made from specially woven silks, that is the most persistent of traditional garments, sometimes worn over a low (6 cm) flat topped skullcap (araqčın), almost covered with gold embroidery, or alternatively a small bonnet (täsäk).}}</ref> and Armenian<ref name="Emin">{{cite book |last=Acharian |first=Hrachia |author-link=Hrachia Acharian |title=Ēminean azgagrakan zhoghovatsu |publisher=Lazarev Institute of Oriental Languages |year=1901 |volume=9 |location=Tbilisi |page=1091 |trans-title=Emin Ethnographic Collection: Armenian Provincial Dictionary |chapter=Քալաղայ [Kalaghay] |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=aOwcAAAAMAAJ&dq=%D5%94%D5%A1%D5%AC%D5%A1%D5%B2%D5%A1%D5%B5&pg=PA1091 |lang=hy}}</ref><ref name="Stepan" /> women's headgear. It is a square-shaped silk head scarf with special prints on it. In November 2014 at the 9th session of UNESCO's traditional art and symbolism of Kelaghayi, its production and the wearing were included in the list of intangible cultural heritage UNESCO.<ref name=":1">[http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/index.php?lg=en&pg=00011&RL=00669 Traditional art and symbolism of Kelaghayi, making and wearing women’s silk headscarves] // Official website UNESCO.</ref>
==Etymology== Kelaghayi is found in various dialects of Azerbaijani, Turkish, and Armenian, known as ''kalagaz'' in Istanbul, ''kelāyağı'' or ''keleyağı'' in Kars, ''kəlağayı'' in Azerbaijan, and ''kalaghay'' in Armenian. Kelaghayi was borrowed from the Armenian term ''k'alałay'' ({{lang|hy|քալաղայ}}), meaning "silk kerchief" or "city-fashion women's head-covering".<ref name= Emin/><ref name= Dankoff/> The Armenian term could possibly originate from Persian ''kalāx'', meaning "gauze head-covering".<ref name= Dankoff>{{cite book |last1=Dankoff |first1=Robert |author1-link=Robert Dankoff |title=Armenian Loanwords in Turkish |date=1995 |publisher=Harrassowitz |location=Wiesbaden |pages=193 |isbn=978-3-447-03640-5 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=aFWQTBm35m0C&pg=PA193 |access-date=27 March 2023}}</ref><ref name= Stepan>{{cite book|last= Malkhasyants|first= Stepan|author-link= Stepan Malkhasyants|chapter= ՔԱԼԱՂԱՅ [KALAGHAI]|title= Hayerēn batsʻatrakan baṛaran: chʻors hatorum |trans-title= Armenian Explanatory Dictionary: in four volumes|volume= 3-4|year= 1955|location= Beirut|publisher= “Sevan” Publishing House|chapter-url= https://books.google.com/books?id=os3wOo_YD4wC&q=%D5%94%D5%A1%D5%AC%D5%A1%D5%B2%D5%A1%D5%B5|page= 533}}</ref>
==Background== thumb|Examples of Kelaghayi shawls [[File:Adele khanem jaf.jpg|thumb|Lady Adela (1847-1920) wearing Kurdish '''hewrî''']] Kelaghayi is a four-cornered shawl woven from silk thread and worn by the women as a symbol of chastity, respect, and devotion.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web|url=https://bakucorner.az/en/milli/about-kelaghayi.html|title=About Kelaghayi – Traditional|website=bakucorner.az|access-date=2019-05-11}}</ref> Thin silk threads are woven together on a loom, and then boiled and dried into squares. They are dyed with vegetable dyes, and artisans use wood blocks and oils to stamp patterns.<ref name=":0" /> The silk keeps the wearer cool in the summer and warm in the winter. The process of making a kelaghayi takes two days and four separate artisans: the weaver, the dyer, the moulder (decorator), and ornamental master. Traditionally, all the artisans involved are men.<ref name="Nilufar">{{Cite web|url=https://www.itinari.com/attribute-of-azerbaijani-beauty-kelaghayi-6sl2|title=Attribute of Azerbaijani beauty: Kelaghayi|last=Nilufar|date=2018-03-23|website=itinari|language=en|access-date=2019-05-11}}</ref>
The colours and patterns of kelaghayi often have meaning and importance for events like weddings, engagements, mourning periods, and daily life. There are age and social differences in its wearing: older women wear kelaghayis of darker colours, mostly black and dark blue, whereas younger women opt for brighter ones, such as white, beige, bright blue, etc. If a woman gave a kelaghayi to a man, it signified that she accepted his proposal of marriage. She would then wear a red kelaghayi at their henna party.<ref name="Nilufar"/>
A kelaghayi can be tied in various ways, depending on the region.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.anl.az/down/meqale/medeniyyet/medeniyyet_fevral2009/69956.htm|title=Baş örtüyü – kəlağayı|website=www.anl.az}}</ref> In some places, a kelaghayi was tied over a triangular headscarf after collecting hair with a piece of gauze. As a result, there would be three headdresses worn simultaneously: first, the juna (gauze), then the kelaghayi and finally a triangular headscarf called kasaba, sarandaz, or zarbab.<ref>{{Cite news|url=http://news.day.az/society/346477.html|title=Азербайджанский келагаи: уникальные традиции женственности – ФОТО – ОПРОС|publisher=day.az}}</ref>
Kelaghayi-making is concentrated in two cities in Azerbaijan, the city of Sheki and the Basgal settlement in Ismayilly.<ref name=":1" /> The tradition is passed down through non-formal apprenticeships, primarily through family occupation.<ref name=":1" />
The clothes, fine needle-works and shawls made of Sheki silk were highly appreciated. For this reason, the local population engaged in kelaghayi production produced silk in Sheki and created kelaghayi in Basgal.<ref name="azer.com">{{cite web|url=https://www.azer.com/aiweb/categories/magazine/62_folder/62_articles/62_basgal_lahij.html|title=6.2 Basgal and Lahij|website=www.azer.com}}</ref> Therefore, despite a certain distance between two regions, they connected with each other by “floss ties.”
==References== {{commonscat|Kalaghai}}
{{Reflist}}
{{Intangible Heritage Azerbaijan}} {{UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity/ENA}}
Category:Azerbaijani clothing Category:Headgear Category:Azerbaijani words and phrases Category:Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity