{{Short description|Medieval outer garment}} thumb|15th century costume - the HouppelandeA '''houppelande''' or '''houpelande''' is an outer garment, with a long, full body and flaring sleeves, that was worn by both men and women in Europe in the late Middle Ages. Sometimes the houppelande was lined with fur. The garment was later worn by professional classes, and has remained in Western civilization as the familiar academic and legal robes of today. However, back then it was always worn over a doublet by men.
The houppelande appeared around 1360 and was to remain fashionable well into the next century.<ref>Laver, ''Concise History of Costume and Fashion''</ref> It had its origins in the herigaut, a similar 13th-century garment with hanging sleeves.<ref>{{cite web|last=Howell|first=Lauren|title=Early Gothic-13th & 14th Centuries|url=http://www.cfa.ilstu.edu/lmlowel/the331/MiddleAges/EGothicreview.html|publisher=Illinois State University|access-date=18 July 2013|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120809235916/http://www.cfa.ilstu.edu/lmlowel/THE331/MiddleAges/EGothicreview.html|archive-date=9 August 2012}}</ref> The edges of the houppelande were often ''dagged'', or cut into decorative patterns such as scallops, "embattled" tabs or even leaf shapes.<ref>Ribiero, Aileen, ''Dress and Morality'', Batsford, 1986, reprinted Berg, 2003, {{ISBN|1-85973-782-X}}</ref>
==History== The term ''houppelande'' is of French origin; in England it was called a ''goun'', a term of mockery, and in Italy, a ''pellanda''.<ref name="scott">{{cite book|last=Scott|first=Margaret|title=Medieval Clothing and Costumes: Displaying Wealth and Class in Medieval Times|url=https://archive.org/details/medievalclothing0000scot|url-access=registration|publisher=The Rosen Publishing Group|date=2004|pages=[https://archive.org/details/medievalclothing0000scot/page/32 32-33]|isbn=9780823939916}}</ref> It is first mentioned in French royal inventories in 1359 and is thought to have originated as a man's housecoat worn over the pourpoint.<ref name="tortora">{{cite book|last1=Tortora|first1=Phyllis G.|last2=Eubank|first2=Keith|title=Survey of Historic Costume|edition=5th|publisher=A&C Black|date=2010|page=153|isbn=978-1563678066}}</ref>
The woman's and man's houppelande were similar in that both featured flared sleeves, high collars and voluminous skirts. However, there were a few key differences. The man's houppelande was belted at the waist, whereas the woman's was belted beneath the bust.<ref name="newman">{{cite book|last=Newman|first=Paul B.|title=Daily Life in the Middle Ages|publisher=McFarland|date=2001|pages=112–113, 116–117|isbn=0786450525}}</ref> Unlike the woman's houppelande, which was always floor-length, the man's houppelande could be of any length. Some men wore houppelandes that extended only as far as the buttocks, prompting critics to claim that they looked like women from behind.<ref name="scott"/> Longer versions were mostly worn on ceremonial occasions. A mid-calf version known as the ''houppelande à mi-jambe'' gained popularity in the 1400s.<ref name="tortora"/>
==Gallery== <gallery> File:Prayer_book_of_Maria_d'Harcourt_-_Staatsbibliothek_zu_Berlin_MsGermQuart42_-_f19v.jpg|Woman wearing a houppelande with "dagged" sleeves. File:Départ_pour_un_pèlerinage_-_Petites_Heures_du_duc_de_Berry_-_BNF_Lat18014_f288v.jpg|The man on the right wears a belted houppelande and a chaperon hat. File:Les Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry avril.jpg|Houppelande examples from Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry, avril </gallery>
==See also== {{commons category|Houppelande}} *1300–1400 in European fashion *1400–1500 in European fashion
==Notes== {{reflist}}
==References== *Ribiero, Aileen, ''Dress and Morality'', Batsford, 1986, reprinted Berg, 2003, {{ISBN|1-85973-782-X}} *Laver, James: ''The Concise History of Costume and Fashion'', Abrams, 1979.
{{Historical clothing|state=expanded}}
Category:14th-century fashion Category:15th-century fashion Category:History of Western fashion Category:Medieval European costume Category:Robes and cloaks Category:Gowns {{clothing-stub}}