{{Short description|Type of knot}} {{Infobox knot | name=Figure-eight loop | image= FigureOfEightLoop.jpg | names= Flemish loop | type= loop | strength= | origin= | related= figure-eight knot, flemish bend, Figure-of-nine loop, spider hitch | releasing= jamming | uses= climbing, caving | caveat= jams | abok_number= #1047, #531 | instructions= [http://www.animatedknots.com/fig8follow/index.php] }}
'''Figure-eight loop''' (also '''figure-eight on a bight''', '''figure-eight follow-through''', '''figure-eight retrace''', '''Flemish loop''', or '''Flemish eight''') is a type of knot created by a loop on the bight. It is used in climbing and caving.
{{Blockquote|The Flemish loop or figure-eight loop is perhaps stronger than the loop knot. Neither of these knots is used at sea, as they are hard to untie. In hooking a tackle to any of the loops, if the loop is long enough it is better to arrange the rope as a cat's paw.|''The Ashley Book of Knots''<ref>Ashley, Clifford W. (1944). ''The Ashley Book of Knots'', p.190. Doubleday. {{ISBN|0-385-04025-3}}.</ref>}}
The double figure eight is used to put a loop in the end of a rope, or around an object. It is relatively easy to tie and is secure, but can become difficult to untie after heavy loading, and can jam badly in any rope type.
==Tying methods== ===On a bight=== right|thumb|A figure-of-eight loop tied using the follow-through method. A figure-eight loop is created by doubling the rope into a bight, then tying the standard figure-eight knot.
In climbing, this knot is used to save time when repeatedly attaching the rope to climbing harnesses, using locking carabiners, such as when a group of people are climbing on the same top-rope.<ref name=":1" />
=== Follow-through=== thumb|A well-dressed figure-eight follow-through after tightening Alternatively, to tie the knot directly around an object, the follow-through method must be used. * Tie a regular figure eight knot with a significant amount of extra tail. * Loop the tail around the object. * Thread the tail back through the figure eight to create a normal looking figure eight on a bight.
==== Climbing ==== This is the standard method for attaching a rope to a climbing harness.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=EU6LBAAAQBAJ|title=Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual|last1=Gaines|first1=Bob|last2=Martin|first2=Jason D.|date=2014|publisher=Rowman & Littlefield|isbn=9781493009626|language=en|quote=When tied correctly, the knot is tight, with a 5- to 8-inch tail ... Tie the figure eight so that its loop is about the same diameter as your belay loop. The figure eight knot does not require a backup knot.}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-to-climb-tie-in-with-a-figure-eight-follow-through-knot/|title=Learn to Climb: Tie in With a Figure Eight Follow-Through Knot|last=Ritter|first=Max|date=2016-07-20|work=Climbing Magazine|access-date=2018-07-13|language=en-us}}</ref>
Often an additional strangle knot (which is half of a double fisherman's knot) "backup knot" is tied in the tail of the figure 8.<ref>{{Cite book|title=Mountaineering : the freedom of the hills|date=2010|publisher=Mountaineers Books|others=Eng, Ronald C., Van Pelt, Julie.|isbn=9781594851384|pages=141|oclc=607322876|quote=For instance, the overhand knot can be used to secure rope ends after ... a rewoven figure eight (fig. 9-4c). ... The rewoven figure eight is finished off by tying an overhand knot in the loose end of the rope.}}</ref><ref>Timothy W. Kidd, Jennifer Hazelrigs, {{ISBN|978-0-7360-6802-4}} ''Rock climbing''. Wilderness Education Association (U.S.) "There is great debate about whether the [Figure Eight] knot is finished at this point. Some people think stopping at this point is sufficient; others believe that since your life depends on this knot, you should back it up. ...The most common backup knot is a [strangle knkot]."</ref><ref>{{Cite book|last=Raleigh|first=Duane|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=3Ohpsz6jP8cC&q=eighth&pg=PA28|title=Knots & Ropes for Climbers|date=1998|publisher=Stackpole Books|isbn=978-0-8117-2871-3|pages=28|language=en|quote=make certain you leave a long tail, and finish this with a Double Fisherman's}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|last=Owen|first=Peter|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=N339fp0WUTYC|title=Knots|date=1993|publisher=Courage Books|isbn=978-1-56138-225-5|language=en|quote=A stopper knot must be added when the threaded figure eight loop is used to tie on a line.}}</ref> This is not required for the knot's integrity during climbing,<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1">{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=JxuaCgAAQBAJ|title=Climbing: Knots|last1=Fitch|first1=Nate|last2=Funderburke|first2=Ron|date=2015|publisher=Rowman & Littlefield|isbn=9781493015061|pages=32|language=en|quote=Tying a double overhand or barrel knot in front of the figure 8 follow through does not alter the failure mechanism of the knot. It simply adds another step to an already secure knot.}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://blog.alpineinstitute.com/2015/07/the-figure-eight-follow-through.html|title=The Figure-Eight Follow-Through|last=Martin|first=Jason D.|website=American Alpine Institute|access-date=2018-07-13|quote=The reality of the so-called 'back-up knot'is that it is not necessary.}}</ref><ref name=":2">{{Cite web|title=Members: Fig8 tail length|url=https://www.ropelab.com.au/members-fig8-tail-length/|last=Delaney|first=Richard|date=November 7, 2018|website=RopeLab Online|access-date=2020-05-28|quote=If correctly tied, dressed, and set then it does not need an additional stopper knot to secure the tail. ... I would recommend allowing a tail of 100mm.}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|last=Luebben|first=Craig|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=RgOiCwAAQBAJ&pg=PA2|title=Knots for Climbers|date=2011|publisher=Rowman & Littlefield|isbn=978-0-7627-6858-5|language=en|quote=The figure eight follow-through does not require a backup ... but it can't hurt to use one}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|last=Vogel|first=Todd|date=2017-10-26|title=Knot and cord strength: answers to common questions|url=http://efclimbers.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Knot-and-cord-strength.pdf|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171026072023/http://efclimbers.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Knot-and-cord-strength.pdf|archive-date=2017-10-26|access-date=2020-06-10|website=Earth First! Climbers Guild|quote=You do not need a backup knot behind a figure eight tie-in knot nor should students be taught that 'messy' knots are weaker than 'correct' knots.}}</ref> but could prevent ring-loading failure if belaying from the rope loop (instead of a dedicated belay loop).<ref>{{Cite web|last=Geldard|first=Jack|date=1 July 2008|title=Belaying – 'Rope Loop' or 'Belay Loop'?|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/skills/belaying_-_rope_loop_or_belay_loop-1129|access-date=2020-06-13|website=UKClimbing|language=en|quote=Make sure your knot is well tied, tight and has a stopper knot. Adding a stopper knot adds another link to the safety chain.}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|last=rgold|date=16 Feb 2017|title=Is a stopper knot necessary with a figure-of-8?|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/starting_out/is_a_stopper_knot_necessary_with_a_figure-of-8-658634#x8500316|access-date=2020-06-13|website=UKClimbing Forums|quote=a situation to be aware of is when the climber belays off the rope loop rather than the harness belay loop}}</ref> It also ensures that adequate tail length has been included, and gets excess tail out of the way.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/107107403/|title=Is a safety knot on your figure-eight a necessity?|website=Mountain Project|access-date=2018-07-13}}</ref> If the finish knot is not included, the tail should be 4 to 8 inches long.<ref name=":0" /><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://static.mammut.com/file/User_Manual_HI-MAM-026-7_Bergseile.pdf|title=Dynamic climbing ropes manual: Precautions for use|website=Mammut.com|quote=min. 10cm}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://media.edelrid.de/images/attribut/54517_GAL_DynamicRope_Seilteppich_ANSICHT.pdf|title=Dynamic Rope Manual: Fig. 2: Terminal connections|website=Edelrid|quote=min. 10 cm}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://sport.beal-planet.com/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=184590|title=Dynamic: Fig. 4|website=Beal ropes|quote=10 cm}}</ref><ref name=":2" /> The tail can also be tucked back into the knot, called a "Yosemite finish" or "Yosemite tuck".<ref>{{Cite book|last1=Fitch|first1=Nate|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=JxuaCgAAQBAJ&q=%22yosemite+finish%22&pg=PA33|title=Climbing: Knots|last2=Funderburke|first2=Ron|date=2015|publisher=Rowman & Littlefield|isbn=978-1-4930-1506-1|pages=33|language=en}}</ref> This holds the bottom loop open, making the knot easier to untie after falling, but also making it weaker in a ring-loading configuration.<ref>{{Cite web|title=The Figure-Eight Follow-Through|url=http://blog.alpineinstitute.com/2015/07/the-figure-eight-follow-through.html|access-date=2020-06-13|website=American Alpine Institute|quote=may seriously weaken the knot if you use the inside of the knot as a belay loop}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|last=Dahlberg|first=Robin|title=Cross load test of common climbing knots|url=https://vimeo.com/40767916|access-date=2020-06-10|website=Vimeo|at=0:36–1:45|language=en}}</ref>
The diameter of the loop should be kept small to avoid being caught on protrusions while falling, or clipped into accidentally while lead climbing.<ref name=":0" /> A well-dressed knot has a symmetrical appearance, with the strands parallel through each curve.<ref name=":0" /><ref>{{Cite web|title=The Well-Dressed Figure Eight Knot: Start Hard, Finish Easy|url=https://foxmountainguides.com/well-dressed-figure-eight-knot/|last=JB|date=2018-07-17|website=Fox Mountain Guides & Climbing School|language=en-US|access-date=2020-05-28}}</ref>
== See also == * Directional figure-eight knot * List of knots
==References== {{Reflist}}
== External links == *{{Animated Knots|fig8follow|Figure Eight Follow Through|2018-07-12}} * [http://www.masterblanker.com/articles/figure-of-8-knot-instuctions/ Photographs showing how to tie the figure of 8 loop knot] * [http://notableknotindex.webs.com/figure8loop.html Notable Knot Index – Figure 8 Loop] *[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_nU_HSqS8Y Video of a figure-eight loop being stressed until breaking, showing that stopper knot is not needed.]
{{Knots}}
Category:Climbing knots Category:Caving knots Category:Double knots