{{Short description|Traditional Korean upper garment for women}} {{Italic title}} {{Infobox Korean name/auto |image=Korean royal costume-Dangui and Seuranchima-01.jpg |caption=A model in a green ''dangui'' and ''seuran chima'', a decorative wrapping skirt with ''geumbak'' (gold leaf) patterns. |hangul=당의 |hanja=唐衣 }}
'''{{Transliteration|ko|Dangui}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=당의|hanja=唐衣|lit=Tang clothing}}; also written with the {{Transliteration|ko|Hanja}} characters《{{Linktext|唐|衣|服|lang=}}》;<ref name=":0">{{Cite web |last=Hong [홍/洪] |first=Nayoung [나영/那英] |title=Dangui |script-title=ko:당의(唐衣) |url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/kr/topic/detail/6936 |url-status= |website=Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture |language=ko}}</ref><ref name=":2">{{Cite web |script-title=ko:한국민속대백과사전 |url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/topic/detail/6936?pageType=search&keyword=%EB%8B%B9%7C%EC%9D%98 |access-date=2023-02-12 |website=Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture |language=Ko}}</ref> {{IPA|ko|tɐŋɰi}}), also called '''{{Transliteration|ko|dang-jeogori}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=당저고리|hanja=唐저고리|labels=no|lit=Tang jeogori}}), '''{{Transliteration|ko|dang-jeoksam}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=당적삼|hanja=唐的衫|labels=no|lit=Tang's robe}}), '''{{Transliteration|ko|dang-hansam}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=당한삼|hanja=唐汗衫|labels=no|lit=Tang sweat robe}}),<ref name="Britannica">{{cite web |title=Dangui |script-title=ko:당의 (唐衣) |url=http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=123348&v=45 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110610042442/http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=123348&v=45 |archive-date=2011-06-10 |publisher=Nate / Britannica |language=Korean}}</ref><ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1">{{Cite web |last=Hong |first=NaYoung |title=Dangui (唐衣) |url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/en/topic/detail/6936 |access-date=2022-06-27 |website=Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture |language=}}</ref> '''{{Transliteration|ko|danggoui}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=당고의|hanja=唐고의|labels=no}}),<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1" /> and '''{{Transliteration|ko|samja}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=삼자|hanja=衫子|labels=no|lit=shirt}}),<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Nam |first=Min-Yi |last2=Han |first2=Myung-Sook |date=2000 |title=A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds |url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200011920805632.page |journal=The International Journal of Costume Culture |volume=3 |issue=2 |pages=100–123 |issn=1229-2761}}</ref> is a type of {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} (upper garment) for women in {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}}, the Korean traditional clothing, which was worn for ceremonial occasions (e.g. for minor ceremonies in the palace as soryebok (小禮服)) in the palace during the Joseon period.<ref name=":3">{{Cite book |last=Ro |first=Myounggu |title=The King at the Palace: Joseon Royal Court Culture at the National Palace Museum of Korea |last2=Park |first2=Suhee |publisher=National Palace Museum |year=2016 |translator-last=Kwon |translator-first=Cheeyun}}</ref> It was typically a garment item reserved for the upper class and commoners of this period would rarely see anyone in this garment.<ref name=":1" /> It was worn as a simple official outfit or for small national ceremonies while court ladies wore it as a daily garment.<ref name="EncyKorea">{{cite web |script-title=ko:당의 (唐衣) |url=http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=241781&v=455 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110610042424/http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=241781&v=455 |archive-date=2011-06-10 |access-date=2008-10-28 |publisher=Nate / EncyKorea |language=Korean}}</ref>
== Origins == It is currently believed the ''dangui'' originated from ''jangjeogori'' (장저고리; ''long jeogori''), which was worn before the early Joseon<ref>{{Cite web |last=이 |first=경자 |script-title=ko:우리옷의전통양식 |url=http://m.riss.kr/search/download/Downloading.do?loading_mat_type=be54d9b8bc7cdb09&loading_seq_code=a62c1a618cdfc268&loading_univCode=a62c1a618cdfc268&loading_fulltext_kind=a8cb3aaead67ab5b&loading_url=a08b9c40e94b0abfcf4a796599b223f0bb09f7d35794446aeff04fd34e99c3b097323c07973630f025683626f22cc2b35cfe9adc046c094b4f72fee117855ddc22925b16f832a8fe8a92220ec1e0a86c9a9a7f4c7c7e0657 |access-date=2022-12-11 |website=m.riss.kr}}</ref> as formal wear.<ref name=":2" />
The scholars of the late Joseon period, such as Pak Kyusu, who wrote the 1841 ''Geoga japbokgo'' (거가잡복고 居家雜服攷), a history of Korean clothing, believed that the ''dangui'' originated from China and may have dated back to the time when the Chinese clothing system was introduced to Korea between 57 BC and 668 AD, during the Three Kingdoms period of Korea:
{{Blockquote|text=지금 사람들은 모두 당의가 부인의 예복이라고 이른다. 그 제도 또한 녹색이고 좁은 소매에 옆을 트며 길이는 배를 가릴 정도인데 또한 어디서부터 기원하였는지 알 수 없고 이것은 예에 근거가 없다【생각건데, 원삼과 당의의 제도는 모두 근본이 없어 이른바 당의라는 것은 당나라 때의 부인의 편복이었는데 우리나라 풍속이 우연히 그것을 본떠 마침내 당의라고 이름하게 된 것이다.】 (“其一, 今人皆謂唐衣是婦人禮服, 其制亦綠色爲之窄袖缺骻, 長可掩服. 亦未知起自何, 是於禮無據【按圓衫唐衣之制, 俱無原委, 所謂唐衣者, 似是唐時婦人便服, 而東俗偶然放之, 遂名唐衣也.】”)|source=『居家雜服考』, 「內服」|author=Bak Gyusu|title=Geoga japbokgo (거가잡복고 居家雜服攷), 1841}}
This belief was due to the use of the Chinese character《{{linktext|唐|}}》; this character could either refer to the Tang (唐) dynasty or indicate a "Chinese" (唐) product introduced from China; but, in this context, the scholars had assumed that it referred to the Tang dynasty. However, the claim that the ''dangui'' dates back to the Tang dynasty is currently judged as being erroneous, considering that the clothing characteristics of the ''dangui'' appeared in the middle of the 17th century according to the excavation of related relics.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Kim |first=Eunhui |title=朝鮮時代 唐衣 變遷에 관한 硏究 |url=http://m.riss.kr/search/download/Downloading.do?loading_mat_type=be54d9b8bc7cdb09&loading_seq_code=a62c1a618cdfc268&loading_univCode=a62c1a618cdfc268&loading_fulltext_kind=a8cb3aaead67ab5b&loading_url=a08b9c40e94b0abfcf4a796599b223f0bb09f7d35794446aeff04fd34e99c3b097323c07973630f025683626f22cc2b35cfe9adc046c094b4f72fee117855ddc22925b16f832a8fe8a92220ec1e0a86c9a9a7f4c7c7e0657 |access-date=2022-12-11 |website=m.riss.kr}}</ref> It is also noted that it is only in the 17th century that the term ''dangui'' first appeared in literature.<ref name=":2" />
Whether the late Joseon theory on the origins of the ''dangui'' is probable or not, it is certain that the {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} was worn during the Joseon period, based on historical documents and remains. The scholar, Yi Jae (李縡 1680 – 1746) mentioned the {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} in his book, {{Transliteration|ko|Sarye p'yŏllam}} 《{{Korean|hangul=사례편람|hanja=四禮便覽|lit="Easy Manual of the Four Rites" or "Convenient Reference to the Four Rites"|labels=no|mr=Sarye p'yŏllam}}》which defines four important rites based on Confucianism.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=151553&v=43 |script-title=ko:사례편람 (四禮便覽) |website=Nate / Britannica |language=ko |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110610042457/http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=151553&v=43 |archive-date=2011-06-10 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |script-title=ko:사례[ 四禮 ] |url=http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=234433&v=42 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110610042722/http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=234433&v=42 |archive-date=2011-06-10 |access-date=2009-03-01}}</ref> In the chapter, {{Transliteration|ko|Gwallyejo}}《{{linktext|冠|禮|條}}》on the coming of age ceremonies, the {{Transliteration|ko|samja}} ({{Korean|hangul=삼자|hanja=衫子|labels=no}}) was commonly called {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} and its length reaches to the knees and its sleeves are narrow. It is also a woman's {{Transliteration|ko|sangbok}} ({{Hanja|常服}}; {{Lang-zh|c={{linktext|常服}}|p=chángfú}}), a daily garments when working.<ref name="Britannica" /><ref name="Doosan">{{cite web|url=http://www.doopedia.co.kr/doopedia/master/master.do?_method=view&MAS_IDX=101013000834776 |script-title=ko:당의 (唐衣) |website=Doosan Encyclopedia |language=ko |access-date=2013-11-11}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.doopedia.co.kr/doopedia/master/master.do?_method=view&MAS_IDX=101013000747644 |script-title=ko:상복 (常服) |website=Doosan Encyclopedia |language=ko |access-date=2013-11-11}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=May váy áo cưới sang trọng, thanh lịch, thiết kế riêng|url=https://nicolebridal.vn/dich-vu-may-ao-cuoi-tai-nicole-bridal/|access-date=2022-02-23|website=Nicole Bridal|language=vi-VN}}</ref>
== Construction and design == [[File:Court Woman's Jacket (Dangui) Joseon Dynasty.jpg|thumb|307x307px|A {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} worn by a court woman, Joseon dynasty, 19th century, from the Brooklyn Museum]] The form of {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} is similar to that of {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}; however, the length of both the front and back side of the {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} reach to the knees-level and is triple to that of {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}.
The characteristic design purpose of the {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} is to emphasize the beauty of the {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}}'s curvy lines. The side seams are open to the armpit and are curved in shape.<ref name=":1" /> When making a ''dangui'' with a yellowish green fabric, the color for the inner fabric and for {{Transliteration|ko|goreum}} ({{Korean|hangul=고름|labels=no}}), which is the ribbons tied at the chest, is red and purple respectively. Two ''{{Transliteration|ko|goreum}}'' are attached at the left side of {{Transliteration|ko|git}} ({{Korean|hangul=깃|labels=no}}), which is a fabric band of that trims the collar while one short ''{{Transliteration|ko|goreum}}'' is at the git's right side.
The sleeves of {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} are narrow. At the end of the sleeves of {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}}, there is {{Transliteration|ko|geodeulji}}, a kind of white border band attached.<ref name="Britannica" /> The white border band is an indication that it is a type of ceremonial garment.<ref name=":1" />
The materials, along with the decorations and colours used in the {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}}, differed based on the social status of its wearer, on the occasions when it had to be worn, and on the seasons.<ref name=":1" />
=== Lining and padding === In addition, the {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} can be divided into two types depending on its layer: the {{Transliteration|ko|gyeop-dangui}} ({{Korean|hangul=겹당의|labels=no}}), which is a double layered {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}}, and the {{Transliteration|ko|hot-dangui}} ({{Korean|hangul=홑당의|labels=no}}), which is a single-layered {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}}. The {{Transliteration|ko|hot-dangui}} was also called {{Transliteration|ko|dang-jeoksam}} ({{Korean|hangul=당적삼|hanja=唐的衫|labels=no}}) or {{Transliteration|ko|dang-hansam}} ({{Korean|hangul=당한삼|hanja=唐汗衫|labels=no}}). The {{Transliteration|ko|gyeop-dangui}} was usually worn during winter while the {{Transliteration|ko|hot-dangui}} in summer.
As the Queen had worn a white {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} made of a single fabric the day before the Dano festival, which falls on the 5th day of the fifth month of the lunar calendar, every women at court followed the trend and change their clothing to the single layered one the next day. Likewise, when the Queen began to wear a double layered {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} the day before Chuseok, an event which celebrates on every 15th day of August in the lunar calendar, all women in the palace changed their clothing to the double layered {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} the next day.<ref name="Britannica" /><ref name="Doosan" />
=== Colours and decorations ===
==== Colours ==== The queen consort, the king's concubines, {{Transliteration|ko|sanggung}} (court matron), and {{Transliteration|ko|yangban}} women (nobility) wore the garment over a short jacket called {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}. According to colour, there were yellowish green, pale green, purple, navy, dark blue, and white-colored {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} and others, but yellowish green coloured one was the most commonly worn {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} during the time.<ref name="Britannica" /><ref name=":1" /> The ''dangui'' were also named after their colours, for example, ''yeondu dangui'' for green, ''jaju dangui'' for plum, ''namsong dangui'' for blue, and ''baesaek dangui'' for white.<ref name=":3" /> Each colour also has its own unique association with the seasons: purple were used for the winter solstice, pale green was for spring, and white was for the Dano, in the summer after the Dano, or were used as mourning attire for a state funeral.<ref name=":1" /> The purple {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} was used by the queen in winter.<ref name=":1" /> The dark blue {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} appears to have been used by low-ranking court ladies, who wore it on important events, such as royal wedding.<ref name=":1" />
==== Decorations ==== {{Main|Chinese auspicious ornaments in textile and clothing}} thumb|A {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} with a royal badge The {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} for women at court strictly represented the wearer's rank, whereas the {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} for commoners was not allowed to have any style used for the former. The {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} for the Queen, princesses or other royalty, {{Transliteration|ko|geumbak}} (gold leaf) patterns were decorated from the shoulder part through the end of the sleeves, as well as the front and back side, and ''{{Transliteration|ko|goreum}}''.
In the {{Transliteration|ko|geumbak}} patterns, illustrations of flower or bats or {{Transliteration|ko|Hanja}} characters which symbolizes auspicious themes, such as {{Transliteration|ko|su}}《壽》which uses the Chinese character {{Transliteration|zh|shou}}《{{Lang-zh|c=壽|labels=no}}》and expresses wishes for longevity; {{Transliteration|ko|bok}}《福》which uses the Chinese character {{Transliteration|zh|fu}}《{{Lang-zh|c=|labels=no|s=福}}》which expresses wishes for good fortune; and {{Transliteration|ko|hui}}《{{Lang-zh|c=壽|labels=no}}》which uses the Chinese character {{Transliteration|zh|xi}}《{{Lang-zh|c=囍|labels=no}}》, commonly known as double happiness in English, which expresses wishes for a blessed marriage. For the Queen, patterns depicting the phoenix were also used. Official rank badge called {{Transliteration|ko|hyungbae}} or the royal badge called {{Transliteration|ko|bu}} could also be sewn on the chest area of the {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} according to its wearer ranks.<ref name=":1" />
== Wedding dress == When the {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} was worn as a wedding dress, the bride wore it over a {{Transliteration|ko|chima}} (a wrapping skirt) and {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}. The wearer also put a {{Transliteration|ko|hwagwan}} (a form of Korean {{Transliteration|zh|guan}}) on the head, attached a {{Transliteration|ko|norigae}}, a type of accessory to the {{Transliteration|ko|goreum}}, and wore a pair of shoes made of silk. Since it was easy to wear and neat, the {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} eventually became one of commonly worn wedding clothing among commoners during the Joseon dynasty.<ref name="Britannica" /><ref name="Doosan" />
== Gallery == <gallery> File:Korean costume-Hanbok-Dangui-Seuranchima-01.jpg|Models in red ''dangui'' File:Seoul-Gyeongbokgung-Chinjamrye-01.jpg|Models of ''kungnyŏ'', lady-in-waiting in green ''dangui'' File:Korean clothing-Hanbok-Dangui-Cheopji-Norigae.jpg|A model of a royal woman in a green ''dangui'' File:Korean.Dance-Buchaechum-02.jpg|A dancer in a white ''dangui'' performing ''buchaechum'' (a fan dance) </gallery>
==See also== *''Jeogori'' *''Po'' *''Wonsam'' *''Hwarot''
==References== {{Commons category}} {{Reflist}}
Category:Korean clothing Category:Folk costumes