Crêpe (textile)

{{Short description|Any of various fabrics with twisted threads, often crinkled surface}}

thumb|Woman's mourning bonnet in hard crape, {{circa|1880}}

'''Crêpe''', also spelled '''crepe''' or '''crape''' (from the French {{lang|fr|crêpe}}),<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.etymonline.com/index.php?search=crepe&searchmode=none|title=Search 'crepe' on etymonline|website=etymonline}}</ref> is a silk, wool, or synthetic fiber fabric with a distinctively crisp and crimped appearance. The term "crape" typically refers to a form of the fabric associated specifically with mourning.<ref name=dic>[http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/crape Dictionary.com]</ref> Crêpe was also historically called "crespe" or "crisp".<ref name=lou>Taylor, pp. 246-253</ref>

It is woven of hard-spun yarn, originally silk "in the gum" (silk from which the sericin had not been removed). There traditionally have been two distinct varieties of the crêpe: soft, Canton or Oriental crêpe, and hard or crisped crêpe.<ref>{{EB1911|inline=y|wstitle=Crape|volume=7|page=379}}</ref>

==Types== ===A=== thumb|right|Detail of an aerophane dress, {{circa|1827}} {{glossary}} {{term|Aerophane}} {{defn|no=1|A crimped silk gauze with a crêpe texture.}} {{defn|no=2|A historic 19th century lightweight crêpe,<ref name="Fairchild Dictionary">{{cite book |last1=Tortora |first1=Phyllis G. |last2=Johnson |first2=Ingrid |date=2013 |title=The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=LTYfAQAAQBAJ |edition=8th |location=London |publisher=Bloomsbury Academic |isbn=9781609015350}}</ref>{{rp|6}} introduced in 1820,<ref name=lew6>[https://books.google.com/books?id=gbIsJ2tZJS4C&pg=PA6 Lewandowski], p.6</ref> and, as "crepe aerophane" in 1861.<ref name=lewcrepe/>}}

{{term|Albert crêpe}} {{defn|no=1|A fine black silk mourning crêpe introduced in 1862.<ref name=lew6/>}} {{defn|no=2|Plain-weave crêpe.}} {{defn|no=3|An English-made silk and cotton blend crêpe.<ref name="Fairchild Dictionary"/>{{rp|10}}}}

{{term|Alicienne}} {{defn|A furnishing fabric with alternating plain weave and crêpe stripes.<ref name="Fairchild Dictionary"/>{{rp|14}}}}

{{term|Alpaca crêpe}} {{defn|Rayon and acetate blend crêpe with a woollen texture, not necessarily made of alpaca yarn.<ref name="Fairchild Dictionary"/>{{rp|14}}}}

{{term|Altesse}} {{defn|A British plain-weave silk fabric with crêpe filling.<ref name="Fairchild Dictionary"/>{{rp|14}}}}

{{term|Arabian}} {{defn|no=1|A British-made plain-weave cloth with figured crêpe designs.}} {{defn|no=2|Piece-dyed silk crêpe embroidered with dots.<ref name="Fairchild Dictionary"/>{{rp|23}}}}

===B=== {{glossary}} {{term|Balanced crêpe}} {{defn|Crêpe woven with alternating S and Z twist yarns in both directions.<ref name="Fairchild Dictionary"/>{{rp|39}}}}

{{term|Balmoral crape}} {{defn|An 1895 English crape.<ref name=lewba>[https://books.google.com/books?id=gbIsJ2tZJS4C&pg=PA22 Lewandowski], p. 22</ref>}}

{{term|Balzerine}} {{defn|An 1889 narrow-striped silk grenadine overlaid with wider crêpe stripes. An earlier 1830s cotton/worsted fabric, spelled balzarine, was probably not crêpe.<ref name=lewba/>}}

{{term|Bark (or tree-bark) crêpe}} {{defn|A broad term describing rough crêpes with a bark texture.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=gbIsJ2tZJS4C&pg=PA25 Lewandowski], p. 25</ref><ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=LTYfAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA45 Tortora & Johnson], p.45</ref>}}

{{term|Bauté satin}} {{defn|Warp-woven satin with a plain crêpe reverse.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=LTYfAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA52 Tortora & Johnson], p. 52</ref>}}

{{term|Borada crape}} {{defn|A cheaper, economical version of mourning crape advertised in 1887.<ref name=lou/>}}

{{term|Bologna crêpe}} {{defn|Silk crêpe used for mourning, also known as valle cypre.<ref>Tortora & Johnson, p. 66</ref>}} {{glossary end}}

===C=== {{glossary}} {{term|Canton crêpe}} {{defn|A soft silk crêpe with a pebbly surface originally associated with Canton in China, with bias ribs. Made in Britain, but exported to China, hence its name.<ref>Tortora & Johnson, p. 96</ref>}}

{{term|Caustic soda crêpe}} {{defn|Cotton treated with chemicals to create a crêpe-like texture, often in patterns.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=LTYfAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA107 Tortora & Johnson], p. 52</ref>}}

{{term|Chiffon crêpe}} {{defn|Chiffon-weight crêpe.<ref name=lew1>[https://books.google.com/books?id=gbIsJ2tZJS4C&pg=PA62 Lewandowski], p. 52</ref>}}

{{transliteration|ja|{{term|Chijimi}}}} {{defn|Japanese crêpe.<ref name=lew1/>}} right|thumb|{{transliteration|ja|Chirimen}}

{{transliteration|ja|{{term|Chirimen}}}} {{defn|Japanese raw silk crêpe widely used to make kimono.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=KsN81J1s70kC&pg=PA276 Ikegami], p.276</ref><ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=gYNGAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA92 Panda], p.92</ref> When woven with a dot it is {{transliteration|ja|mon-chirimen}}.<ref name=lewm/>}}

{{term|Courtauld crape}} {{defn|1890s mourning crape made by Courtaulds. An 1894 variation, called 'Courtauld's new silk crêpe', was exceptionally thin and soft.<ref name=lewcrepe/> Courtaulds monopolised the export market for English crapes and crêpes, meaning that the textiles known as "crape anglaise" were almost always manufactured by Courtaulds up until 1940.<ref name=lou/>}}

{{term|Crêpe Algerian}} {{defn|A trade name for a printed pongee with a rough crêpe texture.<ref name=fc3>[https://books.google.com/books?id=LTYfAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA156 Tortora & Johnson], p. 156</ref>}}

{{term|Crêpe anglaise}} {{defn|A French term for English mourning crapes in black and white.<ref name=lewcrepe>[https://books.google.com/books?id=gbIsJ2tZJS4C&pg=PA77 Lewandowski], p.77</ref> The only true 'crape anglais' was considered that made by Courtaulds (see Courtauld crape) which was last made in 1940.<ref name=lou/>}}

{{term|Crêpe Beatrice}} {{defn|Trade name for crêpe with a light warp stripe.<ref name=fc3/>}}

{{term|Crêpe berber}} {{defn|Trade name for a piece-dyed crepe-textured pongee.<ref name=fc4>[https://books.google.com/books?id=LTYfAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA157 Tortora & Johnson], p. 157</ref>}}

{{term|Crêpe charmeuse}} {{defn|Lightweight silk satin with a grenadine warp and crêpe reverse.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe chenette}} {{defn|A tradename for a strong crêpe with a pebble texture.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe crêpe}} {{defn|Made with extra twists in the warp to create an extra-deep texture.<ref name=fc4/>}}

thumb|Crepe de chine

{{term|Crêpe de chine}} {{defn|A fine, lightweight silk, cotton, or worsted, with a plain weave and crêpe-twist filling.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe de chine travers}} {{defn|A ribbed crêpe de chine with heavier filling yarns introduced to the weave at regular intervals.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe de laine}} {{defn|A sheer wool fabric plain-woven with hard twist for a slight crêpe effect.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe de santé}} {{defn|An undyed, closely woven, rough-textured wool-blend crêpe mixed with silk, linen, or cotton, also called "health crepe".<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe d'espagne}} {{defn|Open-weave fabric with a silk warp and wool filling.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe diana}} {{defn|Trade name for a cotton and silk blend crêpe.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe Elizabeth}} {{defn|English term for a mottled or pebbled georgette.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe faille sublime}} {{defn|Silk grosgrain with a hard-twist filling.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe jacquard}} {{defn|Crepe with designs produced by jacquard weaving.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe janigor}} {{defn|Trade name for a heavy rib textile with alternating rayon and dull acetate warp threads, cross-dyed for varied shades.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe jersey}} {{defn|Vertically ribbed silk crêpe resembling the knit fabric.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe lissé (or lease)}} {{defn|A lightweight, lustrous, slightly stiffened open-weave silk or cotton crêpe, with fewer twists than a crêpe crêpe.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crepeline}} {{defn|Very sheer plain-woven silk usually used in textile conservation.<ref name=fc4/> Originally introduced in the 1870s as a cheap alternative to crepe de chine.<ref name=lewcrepe/>}}

{{term|Crêpella}} {{defn|Plain-woven worsted using hard-spun yarn.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe marocain}} {{defn|Heavy, cross-ribbed crêpe where the filling yarn is coarser than the warp, resembling a canton crêpe.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe meteor}} {{defn|Soft silk crêpe, twill weave reversing to satin.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe morette}} {{defn|Trade name. Lightweight worsted crêpe with heavier, looser filling.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe mosseux}} {{defn|A type of opaque voile which resists shrinkage.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe myosotis}} {{defn|A later mourning crêpe made in the 1930s, in crimped silk with a soft finish.<ref name=lewcrepe/> Courtaulds launched this textile in the early 1930s as an alternative to the increasingly unpopular traditional stiff mourning crapes.<ref name=lou/>}}

{{term|Crêpe ondese}} {{defn|Rough textured rayon-acetate blend crêpe.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe poplin}} {{defn|A late 19th century silk-wool rib fabric with crêpe effect.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe radio}} {{defn|British raw silk crêpe with a ribbed effect, using alternate double rows of S-twist and Z-twist.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crêpe royal}} {{defn|Sheer crêpe-de-chine introduced in 1889.<ref name=lewcrepe/>}}

{{term|Crepine}} {{defn|Silk with crêpe dots. The name also describes a type of fringe.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crepoline}} {{defn|A class of transparent fabrics with a warp-wise crêpe effect.<ref name=fc4/>}}

{{term|Crepon}} {{defn|A heavier crêpe with an exaggerated warp-directional texture produced by several weaving techniques.<ref name=fc4/> A soft silky version was introduced in 1866, and the second, much heavier version in 1882. In the 1890s crepon also described a woollen fabric that puffed between stripes or squares, including crepon milleraye (striped) and crepon Persian (with 'Oriental patterns').<ref name=lewcrepe/>}}

{{term|Crystal crêpe}} {{defn|An English term for silk crêpe.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=LTYfAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA164 Tortora & Johnson], p. 164</ref>}}

{{term|Crespe}} {{defn|Lightweight crimped mourning gauze, late 16th century.<ref name=lewcrepe/>}}

{{term|Cynara}} {{defn|An crêpe-type fabric in rayon and acetate.<ref>Tortora & Johnson, p. 168</ref>}}

{{term|Cyprus}} {{defn|Fine crêpe used for mourning hatbands in the 15th-17th centuries, made in Cyprus.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=gbIsJ2tZJS4C&pg=PA81 Lewandowski], p. 81</ref>}} {{glossary end}}

===E=== {{glossary}}

{{term|ʻeleʻele kanikau}} {{defn|Black mourning crêpe worn in Hawaii.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=gbIsJ2tZJS4C&pg=PA96 Lewandowski], p. 96</ref>}}

{{term|Epingline}} {{defn|Textile in silk, rayon or worsted with a crêpe surface.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=gbIsJ2tZJS4C&pg=PA99 Lewandowski], p. 99</ref>}}

{{term|Esmeralda or étendelle}} {{defn|Sheer white crêpe or gauze popular in the early 19th century, often embroidered.<ref>Tortora & Johnson, p. 215</ref>}} {{glossary end}}

===F=== {{glossary}}

{{term|Flat crêpe}} {{defn|Also called mock crepe or (inaccurately) French crepe. A smooth, flat plain-weave fabric, typically a silk blend, with hard-twisted yarns and ordinary yarn warp. Also used to describe a similar fabric made without crepe-twist yarns.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=LTYfAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA236 Tortora & Johnson], p. 236</ref>}}

{{term|French crêpe}} {{defn|no=1|An inaccurately-applied name for flat crêpe.}} {{defn|no=2|Plain-weave light silk or rayon cloths similar to flat crêpe.}} {{defn|no=3|A lingerie weight fabric with ordinary yarn warp and a twisted filling yarn that is less twisted than typical crepe twist.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=LTYfAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA247 Tortora & Johnson], p. 247</ref>}} {{glossary end}}

===G=== {{glossary}}

{{term|Gamsa}} {{defn|An imitation satin-backed crêpe in twill weave rayon.<ref>Tortora & Johnson, p. 254</ref>}} thumb|upright|Georgette

{{term|Georgette}} {{defn|no=1|Sheer, lightweight fabric named after the couturiere Georgette de la Plante.<ref name=mbp>{{cite book|last=Picken|first=Mary Brooks|title=A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion: Historic and Modern|year=1957|publisher=Courier Corporation|isbn=9780486402949|pages=[https://archive.org/details/dictionaryofcost0000pick/page/88 88]|author-link=Mary Brooks Picken|url=https://archive.org/details/dictionaryofcost0000pick/page/88}}</ref>}} {{defn|no=2|A crepe-surfaced plain weave silk or synthetic fabric with alternating S and Z twist yarns in both warp and weft.}} {{defn|no=3|An English term for cotton crepe.<ref name=fc5>[https://books.google.com/books?id=LTYfAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA259 Tortora & Johnson], p. 259</ref>}}

{{term|Georgian crêpe}} {{defn|A chain-pebbled crêpe (called {{lang|fr|armure}} in France) often with diamond, shield or bird's-eye motifs.<ref name=fc5/>}} {{glossary end}}

===H=== {{glossary}}

===L=== {{glossary}}

===M=== {{glossary}}

{{term|Marana}} {{defn|Woollen crepe, very resilient and drapable.<ref>Tortora & Johnson, p. 372</ref>}}

{{term|Momie crêpe}} {{defn|Light cotton fabric.<ref name=lewm>[https://books.google.com/books?id=gbIsJ2tZJS4C&pg=PA194 Lewandowski], p. 194</ref>}}

===N=== {{glossary}}

{{term|Norwich crêpe or crape}} {{defn|no=1|19th century silk warp and worsted, resembling a non-twill bombazine but not considered true crêpe.}} {{defn|no=2|17th century black-dyed worsted crêpe made in England.}} {{defn|no=3|A georgette-like silk and cotton blend fabric in a crêpe weave.<ref name=lou/><ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=LTYfAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA418 Tortora & Johnson], p. 418</ref>}} {{glossary end}}

===P=== {{glossary}}

{{term|Pekin crêpe}} {{defn|Pekin (shiny and matte striped textile) woven with a crêpe weft.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=gbIsJ2tZJS4C&pg=PA224 Lewandowski], p. 224</ref>}}

{{term|Plissé}} {{defn|Mainly cotton fabric with a crêpe effect created by chemically treating the fabric to pucker and crinkle, typically in stripes. Plissé satin is made using crêpe yarns.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=LTYfAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA465 Tortora & Johnson], p. 465</ref>}} {{glossary end}}

===R=== {{glossary}}

{{term|Reverse crêpe}} {{defn|Woven with a crêpe yarn warp and flat filling.<ref>Tortora & Johnson, p. 509</ref>}}

{{term|Rhythm crêpe}} {{defn|Plain-weave rayon with seersucker stripe.<ref>Tortora & Johnson, p. 510</ref>}}

{{term|Romaine}} {{defn|Heavy but transparent crêpe.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=gbIsJ2tZJS4C&pg=PA252 Lewandowski], p. 252</ref>}}

{{term|Roshanara}} {{defn|Trade name for heavily ribbed satin-backed crepe.<ref>Tortora & Johnson, p. 517</ref>}}

{{term|Russian crêpe}} {{defn|Invented in 1881. A coarse-weave crêpe.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=gbIsJ2tZJS4C&pg=PA254 Lewandowski], p. 254</ref>}} {{glossary end}}

===S=== {{glossary}}

{{term|Sand crepe or moss crepe}} {{defn|Crêpe with a grained or frosted surface appearance, created with a small dobby weave.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=LTYfAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA527 Tortora & Johnson], p. 527</ref>}}

{{term|Sawdust crêpe}} {{defn|Similar to sand crêpe but with a harsher surface.<ref>Tortora & Johnson, p. 536</ref>}}

thumb|upright|Satin-back crepe {{term|Satin-back crêpe}} {{defn|Reversible fabric with a satin face and a crêpe reverse.<ref name=fc3/>}}

{{transliteration|ja|{{term|Shioze}}}} {{defn|Japanese spun-silk crêpe.<ref>Tortora & Johnson, p. 555</ref>}}

===V=== {{glossary}}

{{term|Victoria crepe}} {{defn|British-made cotton crêpe with a high luster.<ref>Tortora & Johnson, p. 664</ref>}} {{glossary end}}

===Y=== {{glossary}}

{{transliteration|zh|{{term|Yantsou}}}} {{defn|Figured silk crêpe made in Yantai, Eastern China.<ref>Tortora & Johnson, p. 693</ref>}}

{{term|Yeddo crêpe}} {{defn|Soft cotton fabric, medium weight.<ref>Tortora & Johnson, p. 695</ref>}} {{glossary end}}

==See also== * Crêpe paper, paper with similar texture * Momie cloth

==References== {{reflist|25em}}

==Bibliography== {{refbegin}} * {{cite book |last1=Ikegami |first1=Eiko |title=Bonds of civility : aesthetic networks and political origins of Japanese culture |date=2005 |publisher=Cambridge University Press |location=Cambridge |isbn=9780521601153 |edition=Reprinted}} * {{cite book |last1=Lewandowski |first1=Elizabeth J.|title=The complete costume dictionary|date=2011|publisher=Scarecrow Press, Inc. |location=Lanham, Md.|isbn=9780810877856}} * {{cite book|last1=Panda|first1=H.|title=The complete book on textile processing and silk reeling technology |date=2010 |publisher=Asia Pacific Business Press, Inc.|location=Delhi|isbn=9788178331355|edition=First}} * {{cite book|last1=Taylor|first1=Lou|title=Mourning Dress: A Costume and Social History|orig-year=1983|year=2009|publisher=Routledge Revivals |isbn=978-1135228439 |pages=246–253 |edition=2009 |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Jz-OAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA247 |chapter=Appendix 1: A Selection of Popular Mourning Fabrics}} * {{cite book|last1=Tortora|first1=Phyllis G. |last2=Johnson |first2=Ingrid |title=The Fairchild books dictionary of textiles|date=2014|publisher=Fairchild Books|location=New York |isbn=9781609015350|edition=8th}} {{refend}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Crepe (textile)}} Category:Woven fabrics Category:Silk Category:Death customs