Victorian jewellery

{{Short description|Jewellery produced in the Victorian era (1837–1901)}} {{Use dmy dates|date=April 2022}}

'''Victorian jewellery''' originated in [[England]]; it was produced during the [[Victoria era]], when [[Queen Victoria]] reigned from 1837 to 1901. Queen Victoria was an influential figure who established the different trends in Victorian [[jewellery]].<ref name=":9">{{cite web |title=Victoria & Albert Love and art: Queen Victoria's personal jewellery |url=https://rct.uk/sites/default/files/V%20and%20A%20Art%20and%20Love%20%28Gere%29.pdf |last=Gere |first=Charlotte |year=2012 |publisher=[[Royal Collection]] Trust |access-date=19 May 2024 |archive-date=2 March 2024 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240302091431/https://www.rct.uk/sites/default/files/V%20and%20A%20Art%20and%20Love%20(Gere).pdf |url-status=dead }}</ref> The amount of jewellery acquired throughout the era established a person's identity and status.<ref name=":2" />

Victorian jewellery included a diverse variety of styles and fashions. These phases can be categorised into three distinct periods: the Romantic, Grand, and Aesthetic periods.

== Identity and status == [[File:Anna Brassey 438-victorian-woman-writing-jornal.gif|thumb|243x243px|Victorian woman wearing jewellery]] The role of jewellery within Victorian culture was important in determining a person's [[Cultural identity|identity]] and [[social status]]. The [[Western world]] has often objectified jewels as aesthetic objects that are highly desired. Jewels are much sought after due to their association with respectability, class prestige, monetary value and current trends within [[society]].<ref name=":2">{{Cite book|last=Arnold|first=Jean|url=http://worldcat.org/oclc/982532145|title=VICTORIAN JEWELRY, IDENTITY, AND THE NOVEL : prisms of culture.|date=2011|publisher=Routledge|pages=1–32|oclc=982532145 }}</ref> Additionally, given its status, [[jewellery]] was viewed as a [[commodity]] that contributed to Victorian [[capitalism]].<ref name=":2" /> A person's status in society could be demonstrated by wearing jewellery. [[Consumerism]] was crucial in prompting the purchasing of different types of jewels, which were able to determine a person's [[wealth]] and [[social class]].<ref name=":2" /> Due to the financial value of jewels, [[Lower social class|lower classes]] could not afford to keep up with this fashion trend. If a woman did not wear jewellery, it was assumed it was because she was unable to afford it due to her position in the [[working class]].<ref name=":2" /> Due to such a large demand for particular jewels, rapid manufacturing assisted in producing jewels. The imitation of these particular jewels were made more affordable for [[middle class]] people.<ref name=":2" /> During the Victorian era, jewels were mostly worn by women. It was unconventional for men to wear jewels, given jewels were considered a feminine object.<ref name=":2" /> Women that wore jewels were considered an object of beauty.<ref name=":2" /> Although men did not wear jewels, men commonly gifted jewels to a woman they admired.<ref name=":2" />

== Different periods of Victorian jewellery == Jewellery throughout the Victorian era remains prominent for its design and composition. The production of jewellery throughout the Victorian era was distinct, as it marked change and innovative practices through the use of new machinery.<ref name=":4">{{Cite journal|last=Warner|first=Patricia Campbell|date=1986|title=Mourning and Memorial Jewelry of the Victorian Age|url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1179/036121186803657472|journal=Dress|volume=12|issue=1|pages=55–60|doi=10.1179/036121186803657472|issn=0361-2112|url-access=subscription}}</ref> Machinery allowed fast production of jewellery and replaced work that could be done by an individual. The collection of jewellery created throughout the Victorian era was diverse, for this reason Victorian jewellery can be divided into three distinct periods: The Romantic period, the Grand period and the Aesthetic Period. Each period consists of key features. These features consisted of different sources of inspiration, different materials and prominent types of jewellery. [[File:Victoria and Albert Museum Jewellery 11042019 Cameo Ariel M.274-1921 England About 1840 3184.jpg|thumb|A cameo used throughout the Romantic period]]

=== The Romantic period (1837-1861) === The first period in Victorian jewellery is known as the Romantic period or early Victorian period.<ref name=":3">{{Cite book|last=Flower|first=Margaret|title=Victorian Jewellery|publisher=Cassell|year=1967|location=London}}</ref> During this period, inspiration derived from the [[Renaissance]], [[Middle Ages]] and the natural world.<ref name=":3" /> This period saw a rise in the use of [[gold]] material,<ref name=":3" /> which contributed to the construction of jewellery.

Key features in this period consisted of:

* Themes: The natural world inspired motifs such as serpents and lotus flowers,<ref name=":3" /> snakes, serpents, trees and birds. * Materials: Common materials used were gold, seed pearls, ivory, [[tortoiseshell]], [[coral]], [[onyx]], [[agate]], [[diamond]]s,<ref name=":3" /> [[amber]], [[amethyst]], [[emerald]] and [[quartz]].<ref name=":0">{{Cite news|title=A Guide to Early Victorian Romantic Period Jewelry - International Gem Society|language=en-US|work=International Gem Society|url=https://www.gemsociety.org/article/victorian-period-jewelry-1837-1860/|access-date=2017-08-29}}</ref> * Common jewellery worn: Rings and [[brooch]]es, bracelets and [[Cameo (carving)|cameos]].<ref name=":3" />

[[File:Victorian 18ct mourning ring with hair.jpg|thumb|249x249px|Gold mourning ring used during the Grand period]]

=== The Grand period (1861- 1885) === The second period in Victorian jewellery is known as the Grand period or the mid-Victorian period.<ref name=":3" /> This period saw a sharp change in design from delicate to bold which paralleled the changing social roles and representation of women at the time.<ref name=":3" /> During this period, imitations of jewellery were prominent and [[costume jewellery]] originated.<ref name=":3" /> This period witnessed the emergence of women in business and politics and saw [[Women in the Victorian era|women demanding to study at university, the right to vote and to earn their own money]].<ref name=":3" />

Key features in this period consisted of:

* Themes: Insects such as flies, butterflies, [[Dragonfly|dragonflies]] and beetles.<ref name=":3" /> * Materials: Gold was used to create a 'soft' look, colourless stones, [[silver]], jet, ivory and [[pearl]]s.<ref name=":3" /> * Common jewellery worn: Earrings, [[brooch]]es, bracelets, necklaces for outings during the night and lockets as casual daywear.<ref name=":3" />

The death of Queen Victoria's husband, [[Albert, Prince Consort|Prince Albert]] in 1861, also inspired the use of mourning jewellery in this period- (see {{section link|Victorian jewellery|Mourning jewellery}}).

=== The Aesthetic period (1885-1901) === The third period in Victorian jewellery is known as the Aesthetic period or the late Victorian period.<ref name=":3" /> During this period, there was a distinct change in how women wore jewellery. This period encouraged the agency of women in [[Society and culture of the Victorian era|society]], with women's rise to power with the creation of their own political organisations.<ref name=":3" /> This change encouraged [[freedom of thought]] and less of a desire to be seen as feminine. Due to this, significantly less jewellery was purchased with women only choosing to wear jewellery on special occasions, and little jewellery being worn casually throughout the day.<ref name=":3" /> [[File:Victorian, Aesthetic period, Burmese pink Sapphire, double heart, engagement ring.webp|thumb|A typical Victorian engagement ring from the Aesthetic period]] Key features in this period consisted of:

* Themes: the return of the romantic style such as soft and natural colours, butterflies and roses.<ref name=":3" /> * Materials: [[amethyst]]s, emeralds and [[opal]]s.<ref name=":3" /> * Common jewellery worn: small and simple brooches, [[earring]]s, the use of bracelets almost disappeared.<ref name=":3" />

During this era, Queen Victoria also continued to inspire the wearing of mourning jewellery.

== Hair jewellery == [[File:Mourning brooch containing the hair of a deceased relative. Wellcome L0036393.jpg|thumb|246x246px|A mourning brooch containing hair]] [[Hair jewellery]] (or hairwork) became an established fashion during the mid eighteenth century. Hair jewellery became increasingly prominent in the 1850s with this trend lasting until the 1880s.<ref name=":5">{{Cite journal|last=Yan|first=Shu-chuan|date=2019|title=The Art of Working in Hair: Hair Jewellery and Ornamental Handiwork in Victorian Britain|url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/17496772.2019.1620429|journal=The Journal of Modern Craft|volume=12|issue=2|pages=123–139|doi=10.1080/17496772.2019.1620429|issn=1749-6772|url-access=subscription}}</ref> Although hair jewellery existed before 1861, its use by Queen Victoria after the death of her husband, Prince Albert, reignited and heightened the popularity of hairwork.<ref name=":5" />

The practice of using hair as mourning jewellery forms part of the Victorian [[Relic|relic culture]]. The idea of incorporating hair strands into jewellery is a method of materialising the [[Mourning|mourning process]]. Hair is incorporated into jewellery as a memento, considering it is the only part of the body that does not change or decay after death.<ref name=":6">{{Cite journal|last=Lutz|first=Deborah|date=2011|title=The dead still among us: Victorian secular relics, hair jewelry and death culture.|url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s1060150310000306|journal=Victorian Literature and Culture|volume=39|issue=1|pages=127–142|doi=10.1017/s1060150310000306|issn=1060-1503|url-access=subscription}}</ref> The use of hair jewellery stems from the material need to create an emotional connection with the departed, even beyond the grave.<ref name=":5" /> Hair was considered a versatile material that was incorporated into a variety of jewellery. Hair was commonly interwoven into bracelets, earrings, brooches, rings and watch chains.<ref name=":5" /> Materials such as pearls, gold, gems and [[Vitreous enamel|enamel]]s were commonly added to hair jewellery as decoration.<ref name=":5" /> A common use for hair jewellery was to acknowledge and remember the departed and the second use of hair jewellery was to commemorate the departed throughout funeral ceremonies. Funerals permitted women to wear specific hair ornaments. Hair ornaments incorporated motifs of skeletons, [[coffin]]s, angels and [[Skull and crossbones (symbol)|crossbones]].<ref name=":7">{{Cite journal|last=Magulis|first=Marlyn Irvin|date=2002|title=Victorian mourning jewelry|journal=Antiques & Collecting Magazine|volume=3|pages=20–23}}</ref> The use of braided hair was also incorporated in the [[Floral design|floral arrangements]] used at funerals.<ref name=":7" />

Other than their use as a romantic keepsake and their use at funerals, hair jewellery represented a material object and popular [[fashion accessory]]. Hair jewellery was not worn and accessible for all, its use was limited to middle and upper class women.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Tsoumas |first=Johannis |date=2023-05-04 |title=Mourning jewelry in late Georgian and Victorian Britain: a world of fantasy and tears |url=https://convergencias.ipcb.pt/index.php/convergences/article/view/150 |journal=Convergences - Journal of Research and Arts Education |volume=15 |issue=30 |pages=121–134 |doi=10.53681/c1514225187514391s.30.150 |issn=1646-9054|hdl=10400.11/8223 |hdl-access=free }}</ref> Hair jewellery was seen as a use of tangible objects that could signify a woman's [[femininity]] and status within society.<ref name=":6" /> The creation of hair jewellery by a woman expressed her femininity and became a common craft. A woman's ability to produce handicrafts such as hair jewellery demonstrated she was an ideal homemaker.<ref name=":5" /> Women that successfully produced hair jewellery demonstrated their domestic skills and womanhood within society.<ref name=":5" /> The craft of creating jewellery using woven hair was a skill that was transferred between a mother and her daughter.<ref name=":7" /> The large demand for making hair jewellery called for a woman's desire to be industrious from the comfort of her own home. Hair jewellery was often produced within the home environment using tools such as a [[curling iron]], tweezers, gum, a porcelain pallet and a knife.<ref name=":5" /> An increase in women individually creating their own hair jewellery stemmed from a lack of trust for jewellers. The act of sending hair fragments of a beloved person to a jeweller was considered a dangerous act given that there was no assurance that the hair incorporated in the jewellery belonged to their beloved.<ref name=":4" /> Due to this, women began the craft of creating their own hair jewellery.<ref name=":4" />

Apart from its main use as mourning jewellery, hair jewellery also had a secondary use. This use accounts for the exchanging of sentimental jewellery by using hair from living persons to represent friendship.<ref name=":5" />

Hair jewellery associated with Queen Victoria is very collectible - recent pieces going for tens of thousands of pounds at auction.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Queen Victoria's Mourning Jewels Find New Life at Auction |url=https://nationaljeweler.com/articles/9636-queen-victoria-s-mourning-jewels-find-new-life-at-auction |access-date=2023-06-28 |website=nationaljeweler.com |language=en}}</ref>{{When?|date=May 2025}}

== Mourning jewellery == [[File:Queen Victoria - Queen Victoria, Prince Albert and the Royal Family.png|thumb|277x277px|Queen Victoria, Prince Albert and the royal family]] The process of mourning was long-lasting and was performed by both men and women. During the process of grieving, [[mourning jewellery]] was predominantly worn by women.<ref name=":4" /> The idea of women wearing jewellery during their mourning period pertains to the idea of womanhood and how women must keep their status alive to represent their husband, even whilst in deep mourning.<ref name=":4" /> Following [[Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha#Illness and death|the death]] of Queen Victoria's husband Prince Albert, she entered a mourning period. This mourning period spanned more than 40 years until [[Death of Queen Victoria|her death]].<ref name=":8">{{Cite journal|last1=Carvalho|first1=Luís Mendonça de|last2=Fernandes|first2=Francisca Maria|last3=Nunes|first3=Maria de Fátima|last4=Brigola|first4=João|date=2013|title=Whitby jet jewels in the Victorian age|url=http://dx.doi.org/10.3100/025.018.0206|journal=Harvard Papers in Botany|volume=18|issue=2|pages=133–136|doi=10.3100/025.018.0206|issn=1043-4534|hdl=10174/10071|hdl-access=free|url-access=subscription}}</ref> Many grievers participated during the mourning of Prince Albert. Queen Victoria enforced a mourning period upon the court.<ref name=":8" /> Throughout this mourning period jet jewels were the only acceptable jewellery that could be worn.<ref name=":8" /> The practice of wearing black mourning jewellery continued even after the mourning period of Prince Albert given the high [[Victorian_era#Housing and public health|infant mortality rate]] existing in England at the time.<ref name=":7" /> [[File:Brooch decorated with human hair, Europe, 1701-1900 Wellcome L0058631.jpg|thumb|276x276px|Victorian mourning brooch]] After the death of a beloved, a ritual of mourning applied for grievers. The ritual commenced from the day of the person's death until at least one year after the death of the person.<ref name=":4" /> During this time grievers were not permitted to wear shiny or reflective materials and must be entirely dressed in black, this was inclusive of both clothes and jewellery.<ref name=":4" /> In contrast, the second year of mourning permitted grievers to wear more subdued colours such as white or colourless materials, pearls and diamonds.<ref name=":4" />

Wearing mourning jewellery displayed the strong connection between a beloved and the deceased person. For this reason, the Victorian mourning period saw the development of personalised jewellery that were used as mementos.<ref name=":4" /> Mourning jewellery often displayed initials or the names of the deceased and their date of death which were [[Engraving|engraved]] into the jewellery in remembrance of the departed.<ref name=":4" /> A [[mourning ring]] for the author [[Charlotte Brontë]], for instance, was rediscovered in 2019 - it was inscribed with her name and death date (March 1855), and held a braid of her hair behind a locked panel.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2019-04-15 |title=Charlotte Brontë's hair found in mourning ring on BBC's Antiques Roadshow |url=https://www.antiqueringboutique.com/blogs/antique-jewellery/bronte-mourning-ring |access-date=2023-06-27 |website=Antique Ring Boutique |language=en}}</ref>

The symbol of eyes had a powerful significance in mourning jewellery.<ref name=":4" /> A single eye was often included in jewellery such as brooches.<ref name=":4" /> An eye signified a spiritual presence of the departed with the person who wore the jewellery, in this way the departed could watch over the person who was wearing the jewellery. Another element often incorporated into jewellery were pearls, which represented tear drops.<ref name=":4" /> The fashion of mourning jewellery gradually declined in 1901 following the death of Queen Victoria.<ref name=":7" />

Throughout the mourning period, there were two main materials that became frequently sourced in jewellery. In order to keep up with the demand for these materials sourced in mourning jewellery, imitations of these materials were discovered.<ref name=":7" /> Some of these imitations include hardened rubber also known as "french jet", black enamel and black glass.<ref name=":7" /> The two main materials used to create mourning jewellery consisted of jet and black onyx jewels.<ref name=":7" /><ref name=":8" />

=== Jet jewels === Throughout the mid nineteenth century, [[Jet (gemstone)|jet]] was a material that was much sought after due to its use in mourning jewellery. Due to large demand for the material, a large jet industry was established in [[Whitby]].<ref name=":7" /> Being fossilised, jet was valued because it was lightweight, intense black in colour, durable, inexpensive and could be easily carved.<ref name=":4" /><ref name=":8" /> Jet was used to design mourning jewellery such as bracelets, necklaces, brooches, cameos and [[pendant]]s.<ref name=":7" /><ref name=":8" /> After the death of Prince Albert, Queen Victoria's love of jewellery was less evident. The Queen mostly wore jet, hair jewellery containing the prince's hair and her wedding ring.<ref name=":9" /><ref name=":7" />

=== Black onyx jewels === [[File:Black Onyx Necklace 12.jpg|thumb|Black onyx necklace|213x213px]] [[Onyx|Black onyx]] was also commonly used to make mourning jewellery. Black onyx, otherwise known as black-dyed chalcedony, was a material mostly used in constructing cameos and was used in [[beadwork]].<ref name=":4" /><ref name=":7" />

== References == {{Reflist}}

{{Victorian era|state=collapsed}} {{Jewellery}} {{Queen Victoria}}

[[Category:Jewellery]] [[Category:Victorian fashion|Jewellery]] [[Category:Queen Victoria]] [[Category:Victorian era|Jewellery]]