{{Short description|Mountain range in southeastern France}} {{Multiple issues| {{more citations needed|date=July 2024}} {{Expand language|langcode=fr|langcode2=de|langcode3=eo|topic=geo|fa=yes|date=April 2026}} }} {{Use dmy dates|date=April 2026}} {{Infobox mountain | name = Vercors | other_name = | image = Vercors 001.jpg | image_alt = The view north from the highest point | image_caption = The view to the north of Le Grand Veymont
<!-- Geography --> | country = France | region_type = Region | region = Rhône-Alpes | borders_on = {{hlist|Chartreuse Mountains}} | biome = | topo_map = | topo_maker =
<!-- Highest point --> | highest = Grand Veymont | elevation_m = 2341 | elevation_system = <!-- The reference system that defines the elevation --> | elevation_ref = <ref>{{cite opentopomap|Grand Veymont|44.87|5.52694420|2023-05-01}}</ref> <!-- Coordinates of the highest point --> | coordinates = {{coord|44|52|12|N|5|31|37|E|type:mountain|format=dms|display=inline}} | coordinates_ref = | listing = Prominent mountains of the Alps <!-- Range --> | length_km = 60 | width_km = 40 | area_km2 = 1350 | length_orientation = North | width_orientation = West | length_ref = | width_ref = | area_ref = | parent = Alps <!-- Overall coordinates for the range; usually the center of the range --> | range_coordinates = {{coord|44|58|N|5|25|E|type:mountain|format=dms|display=inline,title}} | range_coordinates_ref =
<!-- Geology --> | geology = | age = | orogeny =
<!-- Locator map; takes coordinates from "highest point" (and perhaps "range"; need to experiment and then correct this comment) --> | map = France | map_alt = | map_caption = | map_relief = | fetchwikidata = ALL }}
thumb|right|300px|Vercors, Glandasse The '''Vercors Massif''' ({{IPA|fr|vɛʁkɔʁ}}; {{langx|oc|Vercòrs}}) is a mountain range in eastern France consisting of rugged plateaus and mountains straddling the ''départements'' of Isère and Drôme in the French Prealps. It lies west of the Dauphiné Alps, from which it is separated by the rivers Drac and Isère. The cliffs at the massif's eastern limit face the city of Grenoble.
==Background== Over time, various features of the complex geography have been recognised including, the Quatre Montagnes (four mountains), the Coulmes (gorges), the Vercors Drômois (Drome Vercors), the Hauts-Plateaux (high plateaus) and, in the foothills, Royans, Gervanne, Diois, and Trièves.
The massif is sometimes called the "fortress". The movement of people tends to be between the massif and the surrounding plains rather than between the various parts of the massif itself.
Until the mid twentieth century, the name ''Vercors'' was used to describe only the township of La Chapelle-en-Vercors (with {{ill|Royans|fr||zh|鲁瓦扬 (地区)}}), and the northern area around Lans-en-Vercors, Villard-de-Lans, Autrans, and Méaudre (with Grenoble) and was known as the ''Four Mountains'' area.
In June and July 1944, the massif became important in World War II with the establishment of the Free Republic of Vercors, led by the Maquis du Vercors, a base for the French Resistance against German occupation. A major German offensive extinguished the new Republic in the Battle of Vercors that followed. The battle included the last glider-borne operation of the war.
The Vercors includes the largest alpine karst area in the Northern French pre-alps, and contains a number of large and deep cave systems.<ref>{{cite book |title=Encyclopedia of Caves and Karst Science |date=2004 |publisher=Fitzroy Dearborn |isbn=1-57958-399-7 |editor1-last=Gunn |editor1-first=John |location=New York |page=1610 |language=en-US}}</ref> These include Gouffre Berger, which is over {{convert|1100|m|ft}} deep,<ref name="Gulden" /> and the Réseau de Coufin-Chevaline (grotte de Choranche), a show cave in the Bourne Gorge which has almost {{convert|30|km|mi|abbr=off}} of mapped passages.<ref name="Gulden-2">{{cite web |last=Gulden |first=Bob |title=World's Longest Caves |url=http://www.caverbob.com/wlong.htm |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060515145704/http://www.caverbob.com/wlong.htm |url-status=usurped |archive-date=15 May 2006 |access-date=11 February 2021}}</ref>
The Vercors has several resorts for cross-country skiing and for down-hill skiing. Villard-de-Lans is the biggest down-hill ski resort.
This sporting area is environmentally protected, and although the natural environment has been drastically altered throughout history for the purposes of agriculture and forestry, plans for afforestation will make it one of the major forests of Metropolitan France and a reserve for species such as the {{ill|southern tulip|de|Südalpine Tulpe|fr|Tulipe méridionale|it|Tulipa sylvestris australis|species|Tulipa sylvestris subsp. australis}} and black grouse, two symbols of the park, as well as the re-introduced griffon vulture and the alpine ibex. The differences in climate and altitude across the Vercors are reflected in the high level of diversity in the fauna and flora.
Members of the cult the Order of the Solar Temple infamously committed mass murder-suicide in the Vercors in 1995.<ref>{{Cite news |last=Masliah |first=Denis |date=23 December 2015 |title=Ordre du temple solaire : il y a vingt ans, l'apocalypse |trans-title=Order of the Solar Temple: twenty years ago, the apocalypse |url=https://www.ledauphine.com/faits-divers/2015/12/22/ordre-du-temple-solaire-il-y-a-vingt-ans-l-apocalypse-dans-le-vercors |access-date=29 July 2020 |work=Le Dauphiné libéré |language=fr-FR}}</ref>
==Etymology== The name ''Massif du Vercors'' is derived from the name of a local tribe who lived in the area at the time of the Roman conquest of Gaul, who were known as the Vertamocorii (also spelled Vertamocori, Vertacomicorii, or Vertacomocorii), meaning ''excellent troops'' or ''troops of the summit''. Modern inhabitants are referred to as ''Vertacomiriens''.
Prior to the 1900s, the name Vercors referred only to the upper valleys of the Vernaison near the township of La Chapelle-en-Vercors. At the beginning of the 20th century, {{ill|Henri Ferrand|fr|}} explored the massif, taking numerous photographs, publishing books, and describing the geology of the mountains. Ferrand was the first to use the term ''Vercors'' in its extended contemporary sense. The geographers Raoul Blanchard and {{ill|Jules Blache|fr|}}, popularised the term in the late 1920s and early 1930s. By the 1950s, the term was ubiquitous.
==Geography==
===Location=== The Vercors Massif lies in the Prealps, in the south-east France, straddling the departments of Drôme and Isère, both of which are part of the Rhône-Alpes region, about {{convert|100|km|miles}} south-east of Lyon. The massif covers {{convert|135000|ha|sqmi}} with a north–south length of {{convert|60|km|miles}} and an east–west width of {{convert|40|km|mi}}.
The massif is surrounded by the Chartreuse Mountains to the north, the Matheysine area of the Dauphiné Alps to the east, and the Diois Massif to the south. In the far south-east, the massif joins with the {{convert|1457|m|ft}} {{ill|col de Menée|ceb||fr|}}.
The massif is drained in the north-east and the north-west by the Isère, in the east by the Drac, and in the south by the Drôme. The western side overlooks the Rhône Valley.
===Topography===
====Geomorphology==== [[File:DEMVercors.png|thumb|300px|right|Digital elevation model of the Vercors Massif]] The Vercors Massif is known as ''the fortress'' or as ''the French dolomites'' because of its geomorphology. The massif is likened to a plateau: the fall from the massif to its inner valleys is a few hundred metres, while the fall to the surrounding areas is between {{convert|800|m|ft}} and {{convert|1200|m|ft}}.
The crest of the eastern edge has several summits over {{convert|2000|m|ft}}. The interior varies between {{convert|800|m|ft}} and {{convert|1500|m|ft}}. The massif also has wide valleys including the valley of Lans-en-Vercors, the regions around Autrans, and La Chapelle-en-Vercors, and plateaus including forêt des Coulmes, {{ill|forêt de Lente|ceb|}}, and the high plateau. There are a number of deeply incised gorges, including the Bourne and Furon Gorges. These have imposing cliffs often exceeding {{convert|400|m|ft}} such as the {{ill|Combe Laval|fr|}} and the {{ill|Cirque d'Archiane|fr|}}.
Mont Aiguille stands apart from the rest of the massif as the result of erosion. Other parts are isolated from the rest of the massif due to its relief. For example, to reach Gresse-en-Vercors in the south, one must travel {{convert|100|km|mi}} via the col de Rousset or journey {{convert|70|km|mi}} via Saint-Nizier-du-Moucherotte in the north. The villages at the far northern end were isolated by a landslide near the Mortier tunnel. Another example is the Peuil plateau in the east. During the Ice Age, the Grésivaudan glacier reached the Peuil plateau leaving a marsh.
====Sub-divisions==== thumb|Topographic map with the different parts of the Vercors The central part of the Vercors Massif is divided into several regions.<ref>[http://www.parc-du-vercors.fr/pdf_classeurs/DOSSIERS/paysages.pdf Les régions] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160303174245/http://www.parc-du-vercors.fr/pdf_classeurs/DOSSIERS/paysages.pdf |date=3 March 2016 }}, Parc naturel régional du Vercors</ref>
The Coulmes, in the north-west, are heavily covered in forest. Folds of Urgonian limestone are rounded, making the area appear mountainous.
The four mountains area has been developed for tourism and skiing but is also known for its traditional activities such as the breeding of dairy cows and cheese making. The main villages, Autrans, Méaudre, Lans-en-Vercors, and Villard-de-Lans, are spread over two plateaus covered by wooded hills.
The Drômois Vercors is an area made up of a number of smaller plateaus. In the north of the Drômois Vercors there are several gorges which are traversed by roads cut into the cliffs. Grassy areas are used as pastures in the summer months, and the biannual migration (transhumance) of animals is a period of celebration for the people of Die.
The ''Haut-Plateaux'' (high plateaus) are the highest wilderness areas of the massif. The area is managed and the pastures are used for grazing in the summer.
At the fringes of the massif, the Vercors regional park has four geographical areas. The {{ill|Royans|fr||zh|鲁瓦扬 (地区)}}, the north-west foothills are the location of walnuts growing. Three valleys descend to the edge of the Royans: the {{ill|Gorges de la Bourne|fr||nl|}}, the cirque of the {{ill|Combe Laval|fr|}}, and the Échevis valley, including the Grands and the {{ill|Petits Goulets|fr|Petits Goulets}}.
The {{ill|Gervanne|ro|Gervanne et rebord occidental du Vercors}}, in the south-west, is a rugged area of hills at the foot of the plateau, with picturesque villages. It looks towards Crest.
The Diois is a part of the Drôme valley around Die. This region has a Mediterranean character, with vineyards and fields of lavender. It acts as a buffer between Gervanne and the interior of the massif.
The {{ill|Trièves|fr||nl||de||eo||zh|特列沃}}, in the east, is a low hilly plateau, which lies between the highest summits of the Vercors and the gorge carved out by the Drac.
thumb|center|alt=|Panoramic view of the main ridge of the massif, from the Moucherotte (on the left), to the Grande Moucherolle (on the right), as well as the val de Lans.|440x440px
====Principal summits==== thumb|alt=The crest of the Vercors on the left, opposing a single isolated summit|View of the Grand Veymont and Mont Aiguille from the south From north to south: * Le Moucherotte, {{Convert|1901|m|ft|abbr=on}}, the summit which dominates Grenoble, most northerly of the massif * Le Pic Saint-Michel, {{Convert|1966|m|ft|abbr=on}} * {{ill|Roc Cornafion|ceb||fr||pl||lld|}}, {{Convert|2049|m|ft|abbr=on}} * Les {{ill|Arêtes du Gerbier|fr||pl||lld|}}, {{Convert|2109|m|ft|abbr=on}} * La {{ill|Grande Moucherolle|fr|La Grande Moucherolle|ceb|La Grande Moucherolle|pl||lld|La Grande Moucherolle}}, {{Convert|2284|m|ft|abbr=on}} * La {{ill|Petite Moucherolle|fr|La Grande Moucherolle|ceb|La Grande Moucherolle|pl|Grande Moucherolle|lld|La Grande Moucherolle}}, {{Convert|2156|m|ft|abbr=on}} * La {{ill|Tête des Chaudières|ceb|}}, {{Convert|2029|m|ft|abbr=on}} * Les {{ill|Rochers de la Balme|fr||pl||lld|}}, {{Convert|2063|m|ft|abbr=on}} * Le {{ill|Sommet de Malaval|ceb||fr||pl||lld|}}, {{Convert|2097|m|ft|abbr=on}} * Le Grand Veymont, {{Convert|2341|m|ft|abbr=on}}, highest point of the massif * Le Mont Aiguille, {{Convert|2087|m|ft|abbr=on}}, with its characteristic silhouette, its first ascent in 1492 was the birth of alpinism * Le Dôme ou {{ill|Pié Ferré|fr||pl||lld|}}, {{Convert|2041|m|ft|abbr=on}}, to the east of Die, in the {{ill|Glandasse|fr|Le Glandasse|oc|Glandàs}} uplands
====Principal road cols==== By descending altitude: * {{ill|Col du Mont Noir|fr|Col du Mont-Noir}}, {{Convert|1421|m|ft|abbr=on}}, between Malleval-en-Vercors and {{ill|Rencurel (Isère)|lt=Rencurel|fr||ca|Rencurèu|eu|Rencurel|ru|Ранкюрель|oc|Rencurel}} * {{ill|Col de l'Allimas|ceb||fr|}}, {{Convert|1352|m|ft|abbr=on}}, between Gresse-en-Vercors and Saint-Michel-les-Portes * {{ill|Col de la Chau|fr|}}, {{Convert|1337|m|ft|abbr=on}}, between Vassieux-en-Vercors and Bouvante * {{ill|Col de la Bataille|ceb|Col de la Bataille (gintang sa Pransiya, Rhône-Alpes)|fr|Col de la Bataille (Vercors)}}, {{Convert|1313|m|ft|abbr=on}}, between Léoncel and Bouvante * Col de Rousset, {{Convert|1254|m|ft|abbr=on}} (tunnel altitude), between Die and Saint-Agnan-en-Vercors * {{ill|Col de Saint-Alexis|ceb||fr|}}, {{Convert|1222|m|ft|abbr=on}}, between Vassieux-en-Vercors and Saint-Agnan-en-Vercors * {{ill|Col de la Croix-Perrin|fr|}}, {{Convert|1218|m|ft|abbr=on}}, between Lans-en-Vercors and Autrans – Méaudre * {{ill|Col de Carri|fr|}}, {{Convert|1202|m|ft|abbr=on}}, between La Chapelle-en-Vercors and Bouvante * {{ill|Col de la Portette|fr|Col de la Portette (massif du Vercors)}}, {{Convert|1175|m|ft|abbr=on}}, in Bouvante * Col de l'Arzelier, {{Convert|1154|m|ft|abbr=on}}, between Château-Bernard and {{ill|Le Gua (Isère)|lt=Le Gua|fr||ca|Le Gua|eu||ru|Ле-Гюа (Изер)|oc|Le Gua (Isèra)}} * Col de Tourniol, {{Convert|1145|m|ft|abbr=on}}, between Léoncel and Barbières * {{ill|Col de Proncel|fr|}}, {{Convert|1100|m|ft|abbr=on}}, between Vassieux-en-Vercors and La Chapelle-en-Vercors * {{ill|Col des Limouches|ceb||fr|}}, {{Convert|1086|m|ft|abbr=on}}, between Léoncel and Peyrus * {{ill|Col de Romeyère|fr|}}, {{Convert|1069|m|ft|abbr=on}}, between Rencurel and {{ill|Saint-Gervais (Isère)|lt=Saint-Gervais|fr||oc|Saint-Gervais (Isèra)|ca|Saint-Gervais (Isèra)|eu||ru|Сен-Жерве (Изер)}} * {{ill|Col de la Machine|ceb||fr|}}, {{Convert|1011|m|ft|abbr=on}}, between Saint-Jean-en-Royans and Bouvante.
The Tunnel du Mortier links Montaud with Autrans, at an altitude of {{convert|1391|m|ft}}. It was closed on 20 April 1992 after a landslide of 20,000 m<sup>3</sup> of rock which involved part of the slope to the north of the route. The instability of the slopes have proved an impediment for the realisation of further work below the site, particularly work on the gorges d'Engins to Sassenage road, the D531.
====Principal caves==== thumb|alt=Entrance to Gouffre Berger, the deepest cave in the Vercors|Entrance to Gouffre Berger, the deepest cave in the Vercors The commune in which the cave is situated is given in italics.
* Réseau du Gouffre Berger, ''d'Engins en Isère'', {{convert|45118|m|ft}} long, {{convert|1271|m|ft}} deep. * {{Interlanguage link|Réseau du Trou qui souffle|fr|lt=''Réseau du Trou qui souffle''}}<br />, ''Autrans-Méaudre en Vercors,'' {{convert|49300|m|ft}} long, {{convert|670|m|ft}} deep.<ref name="Gulden-2" /> * Réseau du Clot d'Aspres<br />, ''Villard-de-Lans,'' {{convert|42000|m|ft}} long, {{convert|1066|m|ft}} deep.<ref name="Gulden-2" /> * {{Interlanguage link|Grotte de Choranche|fr|lt=''Réseau de Coufin-Chevaline''}}<br />, ''Choranche,'' {{convert|32301|m|ft}} long, {{convert|425|m|ft}} deep.<ref name="Gulden-2" /> * {{Interlanguage link|Grotte de Gournier|fr|lt=''Grotte de Gournier''}}<br />, ''Choranche,'' {{convert|18000|m|ft}} long, {{convert|680|m|ft}} deep.<ref name="Gulden-2" /> * {{Interlanguage link|Antre des Damnés|fr|lt=''Antre des Damnés''}}<br />, ''Corrençon-en-Vercors,'' {{convert|5000|m|ft}} long, {{convert|865|m|ft}} deep.<ref name="Gulden">{{cite web |last=Gulden |first=Bob |title=World's Deepest Caves |url=http://www.caverbob.com/wdeep.htm |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060515145608/http://www.caverbob.com/wdeep.htm |url-status=usurped |archive-date=15 May 2006 |access-date=11 February 2021}}</ref> * {{Interlanguage link|Grotte de la Luire|fr|lt=''Grotte de la Luire''}}<br />, ''Saint-Agnan-en-Vercors'', {{convert|37563|m|ft}} long, {{convert|547|m|ft}} deep.<ref name="Gulden-2" /> * Réseau des Chuats, ''Bouvante'', {{convert|48171|m|ft}} long, {{convert|368|m|ft}} deep. The Grotte de Bournillon, located in the commune of Châtelus, has the highest cave opening in Europe at {{convert|105|m|ft}}.
==Climate== The climate of the Vercors due to its elevation is much more rigorous than the lowlands surrounding the massif. The village of La-Chapelle-en-Vercors, approximately in the center of the massif, has a Dfb climate under the Köppen Classification system. Winters are cold; summers are warm; and precipitation, often snow in the winter, is abundant in all seasons.
{{Weather box | location = La Chapelle-en-Vercors, France. Coordinates: 44.971°N 5.419°E. Elevation: {{convert|2948|ft|m}}. | metric first = yes | single line = yes | temperature colour = pastel | Jan high F = 37.8 | Feb high F = 40.3 | Mar high F = 48.7 | Apr high F = 54.3 | May high F = 61.5 | Jun high F = 68.4 | Jul high F = 73.4 | Aug high F = 72.3 | Sep high F = 66.2 | Oct high F = 56.1 | Nov high F = 46.2 | Dec high F = 38.8 | year high F = | Jan mean F = 30.9 | Feb mean F = 32.7 | Mar mean F = 39.7 | Apr mean F = 45.1 | May mean F = 51.8 | Jun mean F = 58.3 | Jul mean F = 62.4 | Aug mean F = 61.7 | Sep mean F = 56.7 | Oct mean F = 47.7 | Nov mean F = 39.6 | Dec mean F = 32.5 | year mean F = | Jan low F = 24.3 | Feb low F = 25.2 | Mar low F = 30.9 | Apr low F = 36.0 | May low F = 42.3 | Jun low F = 48.2 | Jul low F = 51.6 | Aug low F = 51.1 | Sep low F = 47.1 | Oct low F = 39.4 | Nov low F = 32.9 | Dec low F = 26.4 | year low F = 39.1 | precipitation colour = green | Jan precipitation mm = 79 | Feb precipitation mm = 79 | Mar precipitation mm = 88 | Apr precipitation mm = 76 | May precipitation mm = 96 | Jun precipitation mm = 91 | Jul precipitation mm = 63 | Aug precipitation mm = 80 | Sep precipitation mm = 90 | Oct precipitation mm = 95 | Nov precipitation mm = 93 | Dec precipitation mm = 87 | year precipitation mm = | source 1 = "La Chapelle-en-Vercors," [https://en.climate-data.org/europe/france/rhone-alpes/la-chapelle-en-vercors-98294/], accessed 30 April 2020 }}
===Geology=== The constituent rocks of the Vercors were formed by sedimentation about 165 million years ago, in the middle Jurassic period, at the bottom of the Piemont-Liguria Ocean. The deposition of animal material formed limestone, with detritus rocks, formed primarily from the erosion of marl from the Variscan orogeny formed the massif in a period marked by changing climatic conditions and ocean depth. At Diois and {{ill|Trièves|fr||nl||de||eo||zh|特列沃}} is a layer of the massif, formed in the Tithonian age. Then, about 130 million years ago, in the Cretaceous period, a rise in temperatures combined with shallow waters led to the development of coral reefs, which abounded with molluscs, particularly rudists. These were the origin of the Urgonian Limestone which forms the upper part of the massif, more prominently in the northern half. This primitive fauna left numerous fossils, some of which have been found at a site near Rencurel in the Coulmes.
In the Paleogene period, the Tethys ocean closed up and at the start of the Miocene, the raising of the Alps involved the thrusting of a nappe to the west. Sedimentary rocks were raised {{convert|2000|m|ft}} above the current location of the Massif des Écrins and faulted and folded in the process.
Subsequent marine transgressions were responsible for secondary sedimentation in the basins. There was widening of the gorges and erosion of the cliffs from runoff, leading to the formation of the molasse in the Royans and also in the valleys of Lans, Autrans, and Rencurel. At the close of the Miocene, a new period of uplifting brought about the final receding of the sea.
Once formed, the massif underwent severe erosion, which accentuated the relief. The different synclines grew larger, eventually forming valleys including those of Autrans, Méaudre and Lans, Villard, Corrençon, the {{ill|Col de Romeyère|fr|}} and the Col de Rousset. The water hollowed out the cirque of {{ill|Archiane|fr|}}, the steephead valley of Bournillon, and the {{ill|Combe Laval|fr|}}.
==In popular culture== The Vercors have appeared in many films, including; * ''La Bride sur le cou'' (1961) * ''Wish Me Luck'' (1987) Season 3 * ''Une hirondelle a fait le printemps'' (2001) * ''The Butterfly'' (2002) * ''To Paint or Make Love'' (2006) * ''My son'' (2017)
==See also== * {{anl|Battle of Vercors}} * {{anl|Villard-de-Lans (cattle breed)}}
==References== {{Reflist}}
'''Sources''' *{{Cite journal |last1=Jean-Jacques |first1=Delannoy |title=Le Vercors : un massif de la moyenne montagne alpine |journal=Karstologia |publisher=Fédération Française de Spéléologie et de l'Association Française de Karstologie |date=1984 |pages=34–45 |issn=0751-7688 |url=http://www.persee.fr/doc/karst_0751-7688_1984_num_3_1_2068 |language=French}}
{{Commons|Massif du Vercors}} {{Wikivoyage|Vercors}}{{Western Alps}}{{Authority control}}
Category:Dauphiné Prealps Category:Geography of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Category:Geography of Drôme Category:Geography of Isère Category:Landforms of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Category:Landforms of Drôme Category:Mountains of Isère Category:Plateaus of Metropolitan France Category:Western Alps