Terich Mir

{{Short description|Highest mountain of the Hindu Kush range, located in Pakistan}} {{Use Pakistani English|date=January 2023}} {{Use dmy dates|date=January 2023}} {{Infobox mountain | name = Tirich Mir | image = Tirich Mir (The Kingdom Of Djinns And Fairies).jpg | image_caption = Tirich Mir summit at night | map = Khyber Pakhtunkhwa#Pakistan | map_caption = | location = Chitral District, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan | label_position = right | elevation_m = 7708 | elevation_ref = Ranked 33rd | prominence_m = 3908 | prominence_ref = <ref name=peaklist/> Ranked 30th | listing = Ultra | range = Hindu Kush | coordinates = {{coord|36|15|15|N|71|50|36|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}} | coordinates_ref = <ref name=peaklist>{{cite web|url=http://www.peaklist.org/WWlists/ultras/afghan.html|title=Afghanistan and Pakistan Ultra-Prominence|publisher=peaklist.org|access-date=2014-01-03}}</ref> | first_ascent = A. Næss, {{ill|Per Kvernberg|no}}, Henry Berg, and T. Streather in 1950 | easiest_route = glacier/snow/ice | native_name = {{native name|khw|ترچ میر}} | map_size = 260 }} '''Terich Mir''' (also spelled '''Terichmir''', '''Tirich Mir''' and '''Turch Mir'''), {{convert|7708|m|sp=us}}, is the highest mountain of the Hindu Kush range, the 33rd highest peak in the world and the highest mountain outside of the Himalayas–Karakoram range. It is located in the Chitral District of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan.

==Geography== Tirich Mir overlooks the town of Chitral and it can be easily seen from the main bazaar. The usual approach to the mountain is up the Tirich valley which has the Tirich Glacier at its head. The glacier is encircled by three of the 7000m peaks in the Hindu Kush: Tirich Mir, Noshaq and Istor-o-Nal. The meltwaters from the glaciers on the north side of Tirich Mir and the south sides of Noshaq and Istor-o-Nal flow into the river running down the Tirich valley to join the waters of the Torkhow River, and form a major tributary of the Chitral River.<ref>{{cite news | title = The untapped potential of Chitral River | date = 17 September 2017 | access-date = 23 December 2025 |url = https://www.dawn.com/news/1358229 }}</ref><ref>{{cite book | title = Trekking in Pakistan and India | date=1990| first = Hugh| last = Swift | isbn= 9780340515563 |publisher =Hodder & Stoughton |pages= 102–103 }}</ref>

From the confluence at the Torkhow valley, about 100km north-east of Chitral and a few km south of the village of Shagram, a jeep track leads up the Tirich valley to Shagrom, the highest permanent settlement. There are summertime grazing pastures and shepherd huts further up the valley from Shagrom, and above there is the snout of the lower Tirich glacier which is fed by glaciers from seven sub-valleys, those meet at the Tirich Concordia glacial confluence.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Saltoro Summits Treks & Tours Pakistan |url=https://www.saltorosummits.com/package-details/tirich-mir |access-date=2025-04-03 |website=www.saltorosummits.com}}</ref><ref>{{cite book | title = Trekking in the Karakoram & Hindukush | date=1996| first1 = John | last1 = Mock | first2 = Kimberley |last2 = O’Neil | isbn= 9780864423603 |publisher =Lonely Planet |page= 167 }}</ref>

==Geology== The mountain is mainly composed of the mid-Cretaceous granitic Tirich Mir pluton which is cut by numerous dykes. The pluton cuts a sequence of metagabbros, peridotites and gneisses which form a high-grade metamorphic belt known as the Tirich Boundary Zone (TBZ).<ref>{{ cite journal |journal =Jahrbuchtur Geologie B.-A. | date=1986 | volume= 128 | page =367-381 | issn= 0016-7800 |last1= Buchroithner |first1=Manfred F. |last2= Gamerith |first2= Herfried |url= https://www.zobodat.at/pdf/JbGeolReichsanst_128_0367.pdf | title=On the Geology of the Tirich Mir Area, Central Hindu Kush (Pakistan) | access-date = 23 December 2025}}</ref><ref>{{ cite journal |journal =Geological Society, London, Special Publications | volume = 170 |first1= A. |last1= Zanchi |first2= S. |last2= Poli |first3=P. |last3= Fumagalli |first4= M. |last4= Gaetani | pages= 237–252 |url= https://www.lyellcollection.org/doi/epdf/10.1144/GSL.SP.2000.170.01.13 | title=Mantle exhumation along the Tirich Mir Fault Zone, NW Pakistan: pre-mid-Cretaceous accretion of the Karakoram terrane to the Asian margin| date = 2000 | issue = 1 | doi = 10.1144/GSL.SP.2000.170.01.13 | bibcode = 2000GSLSP.170..237Z | access-date = 23 December 2025}}</ref>

==Mountaineering== [[File:Going out camping with pops - Chitral Gol national park.jpg|thumb|left|View of the peak from Chitral Gol]] The first recorded ascent of the mountain was on 21 July 1950 by a Norwegian-British expedition consisting of Arne Næss, {{illm|Per Kvernberg|no}}, Henry Berg, and Tony Streather, they approached the mountain from the South Barum glacier, which runs towards the peak from the south-east, and then climbed the south ridge.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/16/5/norwegian-expedition-to-tirich-mir-1950/|title=NORWEGIAN EXPEDITION TO TIRICH MIR, 1950 : Himalayan Journal vol.16/5|website=www.himalayanclub.org}}</ref> The expedition is depicted in the 1952 documentary film ''Tirich Mir til topps''.<ref>{{cite web | title = Tirich Mir til topps 1952 | website =MNTNFilm| date= 1952| first = Rasmus | last = Breistein | access-date = 23 December 2025 |url = https://www.mntnfilm.com/en/film/tirich-mir-til-topps-1952 }}</ref>

A Czechoslovak expedition established a route via the Upper Tirich Glacier and northwest ridge in 1967,<ref>{{cite journal | title = The second Czech Expedition to the Hindu Kush | journal =Himalayan Journal| date= 1967| first= Vlastimil | last = Smida | volume =#28 | pages= | access-date = 23 December 2025 |url = https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/28/7/the-second-czech-expedition-to-the-hindu-kush/ }}</ref> that is now regarded as the 'normal route'.<ref name=piolet/>

In July 2023 the Japanese mountaineers Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima made the first ascent of the 2,200m north face of Tirich Mir. They spent two days approaching the Lower Tirich Glacier from base camp and bivouacked three nights during the climb and once more as they descended to the northwest - along the 1967 'normal' route.<ref>{{ cite journal | url = https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216815 | title= The Secret Line: Climbing the Enigmatic North Face of Tirich Mir, Pakistan, Hindu Kush | first = Kenro | last = Nakajima | date= 2024| journal = American Alpine Journal |issn =0065-6925 | volume= #66 | issue = 98 | access-date = 23 December 2025}}</ref> The 2025 Piolets d'Or was awarded for this ascent,<ref name=piolet>{{ cite web | title=2025 Awarded ascents & Special mention |url= https://www.pioletsdor.net/index.php/en/home/2024-awarded-ascents/167-tirich-mir-7-708m | website = Piolets d’Or | access-date = 23 December 2025}}</ref> the award was made posthumously because the two climbers had fallen to their death in the summer of 2024 whilst attempting a new route on the West Face of K2 in alpine-style.<ref>{{ cite web | website= Himalayan Club |url = https://www.himalayanclub.org/kazuya-hiraide-and-kenro-nakajima-die-on-k2/ |title = Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima die on K2 | access-date = 23 December 2025}}</ref>

==Climate== The weather station {{cvt|4245|m|||}} above sea level lies in the Tundra climate/Alpine climate (ET) zone according to Köppen Climate Classification. On this specific altitude ({{cvt|4245|m||disp=or|}} asl) we find moderately cold winters and cool summers generally above freezing. Annual mean temperature is {{cvt|-5.25|°C|||}}, which puts the station well inside the range of continuous permafrost. The average temperature in the coldest month of January is {{cvt|-17.5|°C|||}} and the two hottest months of July and August have mean temperatures of {{cvt|6.5|C|||}}. Average low temperatures range from {{cvt|-23|C|||}} in January to {{cvt|0|C|||}} in July and August. The summit has an Ice cap climate (EF) where no month has an average temperature above {{cvt|0|C|||}}.

{{Weather box|location = Tirich Mir (4,235 m asl) Averages (1981–2010) |metric first = y |single line = y |Jan high C = −12.0 |Feb high C = −11.0 |Mar high C = −7.0 |Apr high C = −2.0 |May high C = 3.0 |Jun high C = 9.0 |Jul high C = 13.0 |Aug high C = 13.0 |Sep high C = 9.0 |Oct high C = 0.0 |Nov high C = −6.0 |Dec high C = −10.0 |year high C = −0.08 |Jan mean C = −17.5 |Feb mean C = −16.0 |Mar mean C = −12.0 |Apr mean C = −6.5 |May mean C = −1.5 |Jun mean C = 3.5 |Jul mean C = 6.5 |Aug mean C = 6.5 |Sep mean C = 3.0 |Oct mean C = −4.0 |Nov mean C = −10.0 |Dec mean C = −15.0 |year mean C = −5.25 |Jan low C = −23.0 |Feb low C = −21.0 |Mar low C = −17.0 |Apr low C = −11.0 |May low C = −6.0 |Jun low C = −2.0 |Jul low C = 0.0 |Aug low C = 0.0 |Sep low C = -3.0 |Oct low C = −8.0 |Nov low C = −14.0 |Dec low C = −20.0 |year low C = −10.40

|source = Meteoblue<ref>{{cite web | url = https://www.meteoblue.com/en/weather/forecast/modelclimate/tirich-mir_pakistan_1163320 | title = Meteoblue }}</ref> |date=August 2012}} thumb | Topographical map of Terich Mir, 1931 == Etymology == The name "Terich Mir" consists of two words ''terich'' and ''mir''. Terich is the valley in which mountain peak is located while ''mir'' (sometimes spelled ''mer'') means mountain in the Khowar language.<ref name=":1">{{Cite book |last=Emmerick |first=R. E. |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=T-7yVCcFYtgC&pg=PA138 |title=Iranian Languages and Texts from Iran and Turan: Ronald E. Emmerick Memorial Volume |date=2007 |publisher=Otto Harrassowitz Verlag |isbn=978-3-447-05670-0 |pages=138 |language=en}}</ref> Georg Morgenstierne gives its derivation from two Sanskrit words ''*tirīca'' and meru ({{Literal translation|peak}}).<ref name=":1" /> Several scholars have identified Terich Mir with the sacred Mount Meru mentioned in the Hindu, Buddhist and Jain literature since Vedic period.<ref name=":1" /><ref>{{Cite book |last=Witzel |first=Michael |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=UALji7FE-1UC&pg=PA137 |title=The Origins of the World's Mythologies |date=2012 |publisher=Oxford University Press |isbn=978-0-19-981285-1 |pages=137 |language=en}}</ref>

==Folklore== According to the polytheist Kalash people who live nearby, this mountain is the domain of the goddess Krumai. She appears in the form of a wild goat, and she is associated with childbirth.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ZoH2oQFIhWIC&q=Krumai+goddess&pg=PA61|title = A History of Kafferistan: Socio-economic and Political Conditions of the Kaffers|last1 = Chohan|first1 = Amar Singh|year = 1989}}</ref> In one legend, she disturbed the other gods, and was chased by Imra, who threw her into a fast river. Krumai jumped up the river and ran up the cliff, causing the cliff's shape with her hooves. She revealed her true form and prepared a feast for the other gods, and they accepted her into their pantheon.

The Chitrali people, who are Muslim, instead believe that this mountain is the home of fairies and their fortress. No one may climb it, as doing so will bring death to the trespasser. These mountain fairies are known as "Bohtan Doyak", the "stone throwers".<ref>{{cite tweet|number=1439263171961925638|user=MHuzaifaNizam|title=Lesser Known Fact: The Terich Mir mountain in #Pakistan (Hindu Kush's highest) has for centuries attracted the Kh…|date=18 September 2021}}</ref><ref name=":0">{{Cite web |last=Benavides |first=Angela |date=2024-04-01 |title=Free Permits for Tirich Mir in 2024-25 » Explorersweb |url=https://explorersweb.com/free-permits-for-tirich-mir-2024-25/ |access-date=2024-12-21 |website=Explorersweb}}</ref>

==References== {{Reflist}}

== Books ==

* Keay, John, ''"The Gilgit Game": The Explorers of the Western Himalayas, 1865-95'', Oxford University Press, 1985, {{ISBN|0-19-577466-3}} * Robertson, Sir George Scott, ''The Kafirs of the Hindukush'', Oxford University Press, (1896, OUP edition 1986), {{ISBN|0-19-577127-3}}

== External links ==

* [http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/155152/tirich-mir.html Tirich Mir on SummitPost]

Category:Upper Chitral District Category:Mountains of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Category:Mountains of Pakistan Category:Mountains of the Hindu Kush Category:Seven-thousanders of the Hindu Kush