Taulliraju

{{short description|Mountain in Peru}} {{Infobox mountain | name = Taulliraju | image = Taulliraju.JPG | image_caption = | map = Peru | map_caption = Peru | location = Ancash, Peru | label_position = | coordinates = {{coord|8|53|33|S|77|34|45|W|type:mountain_region:PE_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}} | elevation_m = 5830 | elevation_ref = | prominence_m = | prominence_ref = | listing = | range = Andes, Cordillera Blanca | topo = | range_coordinates = | coordinates_ref = | type = | age = | first_ascent = | easiest_route = | map_size = 240 }} '''Taulliraju'''<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|title=Peru 1:100 000, Corongo (18-h)|publisher=IGN (Instituto Geográfico Nacional - Perú)}}</ref><ref name=":0">{{Cite book|title=Alpenvereinskarte 0/3a. Cordillera Blanca Nord (Peru). 1:100 000|publisher=Oesterreichischer Alpenverein|year=2005|isbn=3-928777-57-2}}</ref> (possibly from Quechua ''tawlli'' a kind of legume,<ref>Ana Arias Torre, Toponimia de Ticabamba, in LETRAS, Órgano de la Facultad de Letras y Ciencias Humanas , Universidad Nacional Mayor de San Marcos, Lima 2002: '''''tawlli''''' - ''Tipo de legumbre, muy parecido al chocho''</ref> ''rahu'' snow, ice, mountain with snow,<ref>[http://traductor.babylon.com/quechua/a-ingles/rahu/ babylon.com] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141229085317/http://traductor.babylon.com/quechua/a-ingles/rahu/ |date=2014-12-29 }}</ref>) is a mountain in the Cordillera Blanca in the Andes of Peru, about {{convert|5830|m|ft|0}} high<ref name=":0" /> (other sources cite {{convert|6303|m|ft|0}} of elevation).<ref name=":1" /> It is located between the provinces of Huaylas and Pomabamba in the region of Ancash. Taulliraju lies inside Huascarán National Park, south east of Pucajirca and east of Rinrijirca.<ref name=":1" />

==Climbing== {{More citations needed|date=February 2026}} There are a number of routes, but there is no easy way to climb this spectacular mountain. The easier two are perhaps the south-southeast ridge or the north face; all the other routes are more difficult. The south-southeast ridge and the north face are rated TD-, the south buttress is TD, the southwest face is ED1 and the east buttress is ED1/ED2.

The east buttress on the southwest face, known also as Fowler-Watts route was climbed on the 26 May 1982<ref>{{Cite web |last=Fowler |first=Michael A. |date=1983 |title=Taulliraju’s Southwest Face |url=https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198307300/Taullirajus-Southwest-Face |access-date=2026-02-25 |website=American Alpine Club}}</ref> and since has defeated many competent parties. It is a serious undertaking on mixed ground, steep sections of rock (difficulty UIAA V+) with key passages at A3+ and vertical rotten ice. A variation of the Fowler-Watts route is the Sykes-Clay, climbed on 10 July 1989 and rarely repeated since.

The 1-km long west ridge was climbed on the 26 June 2016 by a New Zealand team comprising Pearson, McDowell, Fortune and Measures. The route took five days round-trip from the base camp with three bivvys on the ridge, and involved difficulties up to M5, WI4 and UIAA VI-.

== See also == * Sentilo * Tawlliqucha * Santa Cruz Creek

==References== {{reflist}}

== External links == {{commons category|Taulliraju}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Taulliraju}} Category:Mountains of the Department of Ancash Category:Glaciers of Peru Category:Five-thousanders of the Andes