{{Short description|Silver filigree work from Cuttack, India}} {{Use dmy dates|date=October 2024}} {{Use Indian English|date=February 2019}} [[File:Silver Filigree Work.jpg|thumb|Tarakashi work of Cuttack]]
'''Tarakasi''' ({{langx|or|ତାରକସି|tārakasi}}, {{langx|hi|तारकशी|tārkaśī}}, {{langx|ur|تَارْکَشِی|tārkaśī}}, {{langx|fa|تَارْکَشِی|tārkašī}}) is a type of silver [[filigree]] work from [[Cuttack]], a city in [[Odisha]] in the eastern part of [[India]]. [[File:Cuttack Tarkasi (silver filigree) pendant & ear rings.jpg|thumb|Cuttack Tarkasi (silver filigree) pendant and ear rings]]
==Origin== [[File:Bania Cuttack.jpg|thumb|Circa 1873 Archaeological Survey of India photo of tarakasi crafters at work in Cuttack]] This highly skilled art form is more than 500 years old and is traditionally done by local artisans on the eastern shores of Odisha.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.odissivilas.org/costumes.htm |title=Odissi Costumes Jewelry |publisher=Odissivilas.org |access-date=12 July 2012 |archive-date=3 March 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120303115032/http://www.odissivilas.org/costumes.htm |url-status=dead }}</ref> Presently, the silver filigree workers are largely from the district of Cuttack, where the art flourishes.
==Technique== The filigree artists work with an alloy of 90% or more pure silver.<ref name="boloji1">{{cite web |url=http://www.boloji.com/culture/008.htm |title=Silver, Silver, Shining Bright by Alipta Jena |publisher=Boloji.com |date=30 October 2005 |access-date=12 July 2012 |archive-date=14 January 2010 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100114212604/http://boloji.com/culture/008.htm |url-status=dead }}</ref> First, the lump of silver is placed into a small clay pot and the two are put into a bucket full of hot coals. The temperature is regulated by a hand-operated crank that operates a bellows.
The melting process takes about ten minutes, and then the silver is poured into a small, rod-like mould and cooled by submerging the rod in water. It is then placed into a machine that will press the rod into a long, thin wire. This tedious and physically demanding process had been done traditionally by hand and took two men to turn the crank.
Once the silver is pressed into a flat, workable wire, the wire itself can first be hand-carved with intricate designs or immediately smouldered by a small kerosene fire, with one artist directing the small flame with a tube held in his mouth, into which he can blow. This process makes it easier for the artisan to mould the wire into the desired frame for the piece before it is cooled. Next, the wires are strung together and twisted and shaped into a design by the artist's precise fingers. [[Soldering]] is done by placing the piece into a mixture of [[borax]] powder and water, sprinkling soldering powder on it, and then placing it once again under the small flame. This ensures that the details of the design will stay intact.
Once this is done, the artist will take the warm piece and shape it into an ornament. Techniques such as [[Granulation (jewellery)|granulation]], [[snow glazing]] and casting are used in innovative ways to heighten the effect. Artisan Jagdish Mishra, speaking of the techniques employed, says, "The tastes of the customers keep changing and artists must be up to date to keep up with emerging trends". Such new methods and experimentation are increasingly being employed to produce highly polished and refined artefacts in keeping with the demands of customers. [[Platinum]] polishing is done to give a more lasting shine, whereas fusion of [[silver]] and [[brass]] or other materials is done to create interesting effects.
==Tradition== Forms of animals, birds, flowers and even miniature handbags and other souvenirs are made in Tarakasi work. The [[Konark]] Chakra and temple are great favourites as mementoes. Scenes from the [[Mahabharata]], in particular the still from the [[Bhagavad Gita]] depicting the chariot of [[Arjuna]] driven by Lord [[Krishna]] are quite popular. Over the years, various famous monuments like the [[Taj Mahal]], [[Eiffel Tower]], and others have been made, garnering accolades from admirers of fine arts.
The filigree jewellery is particularly rich in patterns. In Odisha, the stress is on arm jewellery, necklaces, toe rings and especially anklets, which are a great favourite. They are considered auspicious as well. Intricate anklets, combining the use of semi-precious stones, are greatly preferred.
[[File:Bela Kanta 1.jpg|thumb|The Bela-Kanta, a traditional ornament]]
[[Vermilion]] boxes, brooches, pendants, earrings and hairpins are in great demand. A vermilion box is a must in any Odia marriage, but this tradition is dying out. Waist bands made from Tarakasi work were used traditionally in marriage. [[Odia people|Oriya]] marriages are incomplete without Tarakasi anklets and toe rings.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.gehnaindia.com/m/stacking-rings|title=Buy Rings Online {{!}} Buy Gold, Diamond Rings Online in Chennai, India|website=www.gehnaindia.com|language=en|access-date=22 June 2018}}</ref>
===Odissi=== The jewellery worn in [[Odissi]], one of the [[Indian classical dance]]s originating from Odisha, is made from Tarakasi work. These ornaments adorn the head, ear, neck, hands, fingers and waist of the dancer. The ornaments include a choker, ''padaka-tilaka'' (a long necklace), ''bahichudi'' or ''tayila'' (armlets), ''kankana'' (bracelets), a ''mekhala'' (belt), anklets, bells, ''kapa'' (earrings) and a ''sinthi'' (ornament work on the hair and forehead). These ornaments are embellished with natural, uncut stones lined with silver and gold.
===Durga puja=== [[File:Chaudhury Bazar Chandi Medha.jpg|thumb|Silver filigree work at Chaudhury Bazar [[Durga Puja]] pandal Cuttack]] The introduction of the Sharadiya Utsav tradition in the city dates back to the visit of [[Chaitanya Mahaprabhu]], a [[Hindu saints|Hindu saint]], in the 16th century, when the consecration of the idol of [[Durga]] by using the mask pattern was conducted in his presence at Binod Behari Devi Mandap.
Every year, during [[Durga Puja]] in [[Cuttack]], Tarakasi jewellery is used at many [[pandal]]s to embellish the idols of Durga. One of the most famous idols is the one at [[Chandni Chowk]], where the entire crown and accessories of Durga are made of silver, popularly known as Chaandi Medha. Other pandals using Tarakasi are Chauliaganj, Choudhury Bazar, Khan Nagar, Banka Bazar, Dargaah Bazaar, Balu Bazar, etc.
Every year, more than 150 filigree artisans are engaged in making backdrop and ornament designs.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://sify.com/news/durga-puja-revives-filigree-artwork-in-orissa-news-national-jj0o4diigib.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110811131427/http://www.sify.com/news/durga-puja-revives-filigree-artwork-in-orissa-news-national-jj0o4diigib.html |url-status=dead |archive-date=11 August 2011 |title=Durga Puja revives filigree artwork in Orissa |website=[[Sify]] |date=26 September 2009 |access-date=12 July 2012}}</ref> The style was introduced at the Choudhury Bazaar [[Puja (Hinduism)|puja]] pandal with a {{cvt|250|kg}} chandi medha in 1956. Following suit, Sheikh Bazaar puja mandap installed a {{cvt|350|kg}} chandi medha in 1991. In 2004, the Ranihat puja committee joined the elite group with a {{cvt|483|kg}} of silver filigree backdrop, jewellery and weaponry. In the following year, Haripur-Dolamundai puja committee superseded Ranihat when it installed {{cvt|500|kg}} silver filigree. In 2006, the Sheikh Bazaar committee remodelled a new backdrop using {{cvt|450|kg}} of silver. Chandini Chowk, Sheikh Bazaar, Alisha Bazaar, Chauliaganj, Badambadi, Ranihat, Haripur-Dolamundai and Balu Bazaar-Binod Behari puja committees are vouching for the filigree work. There is a competition to notch the best show every year among all puja committees in [[Cuttack]].<ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.telegraphindia.com/1080914/jsp/frontpage/story_9805139.jsp |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080919075107/http://telegraphindia.com/1080914/jsp/frontpage/story_9805139.jsp |url-status=dead |archive-date=19 September 2008 |title=The Telegraph - Calcutta (Kolkata) | Frontpage | Artists carve out silver lining at pandals |publisher=Telegraphindia.com |date=14 September 2008 |access-date=12 July 2012 |location=Calcutta, India |first=Lalmohan |last=Patnaik}}</ref>
==References== {{Reflist}}
==External links== * [http://www.odissivilas.org/costumes.htm Technique of Tarakasi] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120303115032/http://www.odissivilas.org/costumes.htm |date=3 March 2012 }}
{{Odia culture}}
[[Category:Cuttack]] [[Category:Indian metalwork]] [[Category:Silversmithing]] [[Category:Jewellery making]] [[Category:Arts of Odisha]] [[Category:Jewellery of India]]