{{Use mdy dates|date=June 2022}} {{Short description|American winemaker (1942–2022)}} {{Use American English|date=June 2022}} {{Infobox_person | birth_date = {{birth date|1942|7|9}} | birth_place = Los Angeles, California, U.S. | death_date = {{death date and age|2022|5|30|1942|7|9}} | death_place = Walnut Creek, California, U.S. | education = Reed College<br>Vienna College<br>University of California, Davis | occupation = Winemaker | partner = Susan | mother = Winfrid Kay (Knudtson)Thackrey | father = Eugene Thackrey }}
'''Sean Haley Thackrey''' (July 9, 1942{{spnd}}May 30, 2022) was an American winemaker based in the town of Bolinas in Marin County, California. Prior to winemaking, he was a director of an art gallery.<ref name=TS-SWE>{{Cite book|last=Stevenson |first=Tom |year=2005 |title=The Sotheby's Wine Encyclopedia |edition=4th |location=London |publisher=Dorling Kindersley |isbn=0-7566-1324-8 |page=506}}</ref><ref name=nyt93>Fisher, Lawrence M. (November 7, 1993). [https://www.nytimes.com/1993/11/07/business/tiny-wineries-with-a-big-impact.html "Tiny Wineries With a Big Impact"]. ''The New York Times''.</ref><ref name=jr>Robinson, Jancis (December 31, 2002). [http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/jr438.html "California's artisan vignerons"]. jancisrobinson.com.</ref> Thackrey has been described as having been an unconventional winemaker who did pioneering work in promoting California Syrah.<ref>Nalley, Richard (April 2000). [http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/syrah-the-next-big-grape "Syrah: The Next Big Grape"]. ''Food & Wine''.</ref><ref name=sf1021>Gray, W. Blake (October 21, 2004). [https://web.archive.org/web/20100525202928/http://articles.sfgate.com/2004-10-21/wine/17449029_1_winemaking-grapes-sean-thackrey "Medieval man"]. ''San Francisco Chronicle''.</ref>
== Early life == Thackrey was born in Los Angeles on July 9, 1942.<ref name="nyt">{{cite web|title=Sean Thackrey, Creator of Eccentric California Wines, Dies at 79|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2022/06/09/dining/sean-thackrey-dead.html|work=The New York Times|last=Risen|first=Clay|date=June 9, 2022|accessdate=June 9, 2022}}</ref> His father, Eugene, worked as a journalist and playwright; his mother, Winfrid "Kay" Knudtson, was employed as a script supervisor in Hollywood.<ref name=Mobley>{{cite news|title=Sean Thackrey, Marin's eccentric, iconoclastic winemaking legend, dies at 79|url=https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/wine/article/Sean-Thackrey-Marin-s-eccentric-iconoclastic-17210225.php|first=Esther|last=Mobley|date=May 31, 2022|access-date=June 1, 2022|newspaper=San Francisco Chronicle}}</ref><ref name=Comiskey>{{cite book|title=American Rhone: How Maverick Winemakers Changed the Way Americans Drink|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=6jnSDAAAQBAJ&pg=PA123|publisher=University of California Press|date=October 11, 2016|last=Comiskey|first=Patrick J.|page=123|isbn=9780520965140}}</ref> Starting in 1959, Thackrey studied art history at Reed College in Portland, Oregon, where he was taught by Lloyd J. Reynolds. He went to the University of Vienna as a sophomore, before going back briefly to Reed. He eventually dropped out in 1962.<ref name=Comiskey/>
After leaving Reed, Thackrey moved to Bolinas in 1964,<ref name=Comiskey/> and for a while worked as a book editor for the Sierra Club.<ref name=Mobley/> Six years later, Thackrey, with Susan Thackrey and Cynthia Pritzker, opened the art gallery in San Francisco that became Thackrey & Robertson, by then in partnership with watercolorist Sally Robertson; the gallery remained operational until its closure in 1995.<ref>{{cite news|title=Medieval man – Sean Thackrey uses tips from ancient texts to craft unforgettable wines|url=https://www.sfgate.com/bayarea/article/Medieval-man-Sean-Thackrey-uses-tips-from-2642053.php|first=W. Blake|last=Gray|date=October 21, 2004|access-date=June 4, 2022|newspaper=San Francisco Chronicle}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=FOCUS: Sally Robertson – A 30 Year Retrospective|url=https://bolinasmuseum.org/focus-sally-robertson/|access-date=June 4, 2022|publisher=Bolinas Museum}}</ref> Thackrey's particular expertise was in early photography, exhibition of which the gallery was an internationally renowned pioneer in.<ref name=sf1021/><ref name=Comiskey/>
== Career == After several years in Berkeley and San Francisco, Thackrey moved back to Bolinas in 1977. Following initial winemaking experiments with Cabernet Sauvignon grapes purchased from Fay Vineyard in Napa Valley, Thackrey became a bonded winemaker in 1981, as the '''Thackrey & Co.''' winery.<ref name=sf1021/> Some early problems with ''Lactobacillus'' led Thackrey to take extension courses at the University of California, Davis College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences, although he stated he had little use for the scientific approach to winemaking.<ref name=sf1021/>
Thackrey sourced fruit from grape growers in Napa Valley, Marin County and Mendocino,<ref name=sf1021/><ref name=nyh427>Lombard, Jacqueline, ''New York Herald'' (April 27, 2009). [http://nyherald.com/sean-thackrey-anti-terroirist/1600 Sean Thackrey, Anti Terroirist] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111008002708/http://nyherald.com/sean-thackrey-anti-terroirist/1600 |date=October 8, 2011 }}</ref> and was prone to employ the unconventional technique of letting grapes 'rest' at least 24 hours outside, fermenting under the stars.<ref name=TS-SWE/> Thackrey contended the idea can be traced to the texts of the Greek poet Hesiod, ''Works and Days'' (circa 700 B.C.), and has been used by various wineries around the world. Thackrey said this method was commonplace in wine literature until the middle of the 19th century.<ref name=sf1021/>
=== Wines === Thackrey produced his first vintage in 1981, a Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend named Aquila,<ref name=SB-woc>{{cite book|last = Brook |first = Stephen |title = The Wines of California |publisher = Faber and Faber |year = 1999 |location = New York, NY |isbn= 0-571-19030-8 |pages = 634–635 }}</ref> which had an initial production of {{convert|190|winecase|hl|lk=on}}.<ref name=lat88>{{cite news |title=Tiny California Winery Awash in Praise but not Profit |url=https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1988-12-13-fi-128-story.html |access-date=June 2, 2022 |work=Los Angeles Times |agency=Associated Press |date=December 13, 1988}}</ref>
Thackrey's flagship wine is Orion (Sean Thackrey Orion Rossi Vineyard St. Helena California Native Red Wine), produced from 1986 to 1990 using Syrah grapes from Arthur Schmidt's old vine vineyard near Yountville, California, until this was bought by Clarke Swanson,<ref name=SB-woc/> and since 1992 from the {{convert|5|acre|ha|adj=on}} Rossi vineyard in St. Helena, planted in 1905. Thackrey was uncertain what grape varieties were in the field blend, and vineyard tests by researchers at UC Davis were inconclusive.<ref name=sf1021/>
First released in 1992, The Pleiades (Sean Thackrey Pleiades California Red Table Wine) was an experimental nonvintage blend made from a host of different grape varieties (potentially both white and red, including Barbera, Carignan, Syrah, Pinot noir, Zinfandel, Mourvèdre and Grenache), potentially from various regions and vintages.<ref name=SB-woc/> The recipe varied every year, depending on the decisions of Thackrey and the fruit sourced.<ref name=sf1021/><ref name=nyh427/><ref name=lat04/> According to Thackrey, "It's like a chef's special. You trust the chef so you're prepared to order the dish of the day".<ref name=SB-woc/>
Andromeda was Thackrey's first commercial Pinot noir varietal,<ref name=lat07>{{cite news |last1=Comiskey |first1=Patrick |newspaper=Los Angeles Times |date=February 14, 2007 |url=https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2007-feb-14-fo-wine14-story.html |title=Coming in from the cold }}</ref> and his first wine from fruits exclusively from Marin County.<ref>Gray, W. Blake, ''San Francisco Chronicle'' (January 15, 2004). [https://www.sfgate.com/bayarea/article/Playing-it-cool-Wet-chilly-weather-and-high-2829806.php Playing it cool]</ref>
Other wines include the Taurus Cline Vineyard Mourvèdre, Sirius Eaglepoint Ranch Mendocino County Petite Sirah and the Aquila Eaglepoint Ranch Mendocino County Sangiovese. In total, his winery's output was approximately {{convert|4000|winecase|hl}} annually.<ref name=sh/>
=== Exposure === Despite Thackrey's fringe profile, he consistently received high scores from major critics such as Robert Parker.<ref name=nyt93/><ref name=sf1021/><ref name=lat88/> Although Thackrey never advertised his wines,<ref name=sf1021/> customer demand for his wine considerably outweighed his small-scale production.<ref name=sf1021/><ref name=sh>Heimoff, Steve, steveheimoff.com (January 7, 2010). {{usurped|1=[https://web.archive.org/web/20100110220459/http://www.steveheimoff.com/index.php/2010/01/07/a-thoughtful-visit-to-the-far-marin-coast A thoughtful visit to the far Marin coast]}}</ref>
Occasionally voicing opinions contrary to conventional belief, Thackrey did not consider ''terroir'' to be the most important element in creating fine wine, having said, "I'm not saying ''terroir'' doesn't exist, there are just a lot of other things going on".<ref name=lat04>Holbrook, Stett, ''Los Angeles Times'' (January 28, 2004). [https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2004-jan-28-fo-wine28-story.html Who needs terroir?]</ref> Thackrey has described AVAs and appellations as a "gerrymandered marketing gimmick",<ref name=sf1021/> and the AOCs of France as "viticultural racism".<ref name=lat04/> Having termed himself an agnostic about ''terroir'', he has also stated he is agnostic about global warming, adding, "The real story is a greater willingness to deal with cooler regions. Remember that Carneros was once considered absolutely marginal. Fifty years ago, nobody would have dreamed to plant grapes there".<ref name=lat07/> Thackrey also believed in both artistic and scientific experimentation. "I am an enormous believer in experimental results. My own ideas about something don't interest me until I have tried them and had them work."<ref name="auto">{{Cite web|url=https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/season-four-sean-thackrey-in-his-own-words-part-1/id1376751260?i=1000564903796|title=Barfly Podcast: Season Four: Sean Thackrey, in his own words: Part 1 on Apple Podcasts|website=Podcasts.apple.com|access-date=June 2, 2022}}</ref>
Thackrey's website held what was titled "The Thackrey Library", which included an extensive archive of early books and manuscripts relating to the subject of winemaking and the enjoyment of wine.<ref name=nyh427/><ref>{{cite news |last1=Comiskey|first1=Patrick |newspaper=Los Angeles Times |date=February 22, 2006 |url=https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2006-feb-22-fo-wine22-story.html |title=Swirl, sniff, sip, search and blog }}</ref> Having collected ancient wine texts since 1996, the oldest document is a sixth-century papyrus receipt for grapevines written in Greek.<ref>Gray, W. Blake, ''San Francisco Chronicle'' (October 21, 2004). [https://web.archive.org/web/20100912190722/http://articles.sfgate.com/2004-10-21/wine/17449002_1_red-wines-sean-thackrey-vineyards Fun facts from wine history]</ref>
Thackrey's media appearances included a segment in the 2007 California season of ''Oz and James's Big Wine Adventure'', and a documentary film titled ''Sean Thackrey: Pleasure Architect'',<ref name=nyh427/><ref>ReelChanges.org: [http://www.reelchanges.org/projects/show/af635601-daef-012b-7538-005056c00008 Sean Thackrey: Pleasure Architect]</ref> as well as a recorded interview on the Barfly Podcast in 2022. <ref name="auto"/>
=== Vallejo warehouse fire === A converted military bunker warehouse at Mare Island near Vallejo, California, was set ablaze by an arsonist on October 12, 2005, resulting in a loss of nearly 4,000 cases of Thackrey's wine. Initially estimating to lose as much as $2 million, Thackrey stated, "This has a major impact on my existence. I only have just barely enough [wine] left to drink myself into the grave".<ref>Gray, W. Blake; Bulwa, Demian, ''San Francisco Chronicle'' (October 14, 2005). [https://web.archive.org/web/20100925054707/http://articles.sfgate.com/2005-10-14/bay-area/17395134_1_warehouse-niebaum-coppola-restaurant-wine-lists Wine lovers lose precious millions]</ref> {{convert|500|winecase|hl}} of Thackrey's wine were later recovered,<ref>Brown, Patricia Leigh, ''The New York Times'' (November 2, 2005). [https://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9505E1DD163EF931A35752C1A9639C8B63&sec=&spon=&pagewanted=1 In One Day, Fire Lays Waste To a Piece of Bottled History]</ref><ref>Gray, W. Blake, ''San Francisco Chronicle'' (October 27, 2005). [https://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/2005-10-27/wine/17396298_1_trade-bureau-alcohol-and-tobacco-tax-single-vineyard Older wines at the heart of Vallejo warehouse fire]{{dead link|date=February 2026|bot=medic}}{{cbignore|bot=medic}}</ref> in an event that resulted in the loss of 6 million bottles owned by 43 collectors and 92 various Napa Valley wineries, many of whom lost their entire stock.<ref>Dinkelspiel, Frances, ''The New York Times'' (November 15, 2009). [https://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9E00E2DC153BF936A25752C1A96F9C8B63&sec=&spon=&pagewanted=2 As Trial Opens, Wine Collectors Seek Solace]</ref><ref>{{cite news |last1=Bulwa |first1=Demian |newspaper=San Francisco Chronicle |date=November 17, 2009 |url=https://www.sfgate.com/crime/article/Onetime-Sausalito-figure-guilty-in-wine-arson-3209550.php |title=Onetime Sausalito figure guilty in wine arson |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150912175324/http://www.sfgate.com/crime/article/Onetime-Sausalito-figure-guilty-in-wine-arson-3209550.php |location=web.archive.org |archive-date=September 12, 2015 |access-date=June 4, 2022 }}</ref>
== Personal life == Thackrey was in a domestic partnership with Susan Thackrey until his death from cancer in Walnut Creek on May 30, 2022.<ref name=Mobley/><ref name="nyt" />
== See also == *List of wine personalities
== References == {{Reflist}}
== External links == *[http://www.wine-maker.net/ Sean Thackrey: wine-maker official site]
{{DEFAULTSORT:Thackrey, Sean}} Category:1942 births Category:2022 deaths Category:Reed College alumni Category:People from Bolinas, California Category:American winemakers Category:Deaths from cancer in California