{{Short description|Mountain climbing route on the Royal Arches wall in Yosemite Valley, California}} {{Italic title}} {{Infobox climbing route | name = ''Royal Arches Route'' | photo = | photo_caption = | other_name = | location = [[California]], [[United States|USA]] | coords = {{coord|37.74840|N|119.569|W|type:mountain_region:US}} | climbing_area = [[Yosemite Valley]] | route_type = [[Traditional climbing]], [[Big wall climbing]] | vertical_gain = {{Convert|1400|ft|m}} | pitches = 16 | rating = 5.7 A0 or {{Climbing grade|5.10a}} | grade = II | route_setter = | first_ascent = Oct. 1936. Ken Adam, Morgan Harris, K. Kenneth Davis | ffa = | fastest_ascent = }}
The '''''Royal Arches Route''''' is a [[big wall climbing]] route in [[California]]'s [[Yosemite Valley]] on the [[Royal Arches (Yosemite)|Royal Arches]] wall. The route is recognized in the historic climbing text ''[[Fifty Classic Climbs of North America]]''.<ref>{{Fifty Classic Climbs|page=231-235}}</ref> The route was first climbed Oct. 1936 by Ken Adam, Morgan Harris, K. Kenneth Davis.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|title=Rock Climbing Yosemite Valley 750 Best Free Routes|last=Barth 1, Bedinghaus 2, Jakubowski 3, Sloan 4|first=Lucas 1, Cary 2, Marek 3, Erik 4|publisher=Yosemite Bigwalls|year=2016|isbn=978-1-4675-9692-3|location=USA|pages=185}}</ref> The route is moderate in difficulty and is frequently climbed. The first 4 pitches are along a west-facing dihedral. At Pitch 5, the route turns north and ascends the main face along crack systems. Pitch 10 can be free climbed at 5.10b however, most climbers use a fixed rope to pendulum to a long ledge. At the end of Pitch 15, begins the bolted rappel route. It is 18 rappels to the Valley floor.<ref name=":0" /> Some climbers prefer to continue to "The Jungle" at the end of Pitch 16. Beyond The Jungle is a 5.4 slab and 4th Class scrambling to the Valley Rim. The descent is usually accomplished by traversing northeast to [[Washington Column (Yosemite)|Washington Column]] and descending the exposed North Dome Gully.
The Royal Arches route has long been a popular free solo, and the competition over the years has led to some astounding ascent times. Even as far back as 1979, the 15-pitch ascent was being done in under an hour.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.summitpost.org/royal-arches/152406|title=Royal Arches Overview|last=bearbnz|date=Mar 11, 2004|website=Summit Post|access-date=August 24, 2017}}</ref> However, many people find themselves spending the night on the route. There have been several accidents on the route and rappel route.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13200503602/Fall-on-Wet-Rock-Inadequate-Protection-Inadequate-Clothing-and-Equipment-Inexperience-Exposure-No-Hard-Hat-California-Yosemite-Valley-Royal-Arches|title=Fall on Wet Rock, Inadequate Protection, Inadequate Clothing and Equipment, Inexperience, Exposure, No Hard Hat, California, Yosemite Valley, Royal Arches|date=2005|website=American Alpine Club|access-date=August 24, 2017}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201203000/Stranded-Fatigue-Inadequate-Water-Inexperience|title=Stranded, Fatigue, Inadequate Water, Inexperience|date=2012|website=American Alpine Club|access-date=August 24, 2017}}</ref>
[[File:The 11th Pitch in 1984.jpg|thumb|Leading the 11th Pitch of Royal Arches, August 1984. This was shortly after the famed rotten log fell on the original route.<ref>{{Cite news|title=11th Pitch, Royal Arches 1984|last=Engel|first=David|date=August 18, 1984}}</ref>]]
== References == {{reflist}}
== External links == *[http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yoraroya supertopo] *[http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/Yosemite_N..._Park/Yosemite_Valley/Royal_Arches/Royal_Arches/Royal_Arches_Route._909.html rockclimbing.com] *[http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/yosemite_national_park/yosemite_valley/105862881?highlightphrase=The+Royal+Arches& mountainproject.com] *[http://www.summitpost.org/route/160350/royal-arches.html summitpost.org]
{{Yosemite National Park}}
[[Category:Big wall climbing routes]] [[Category:Tourist attractions in Mariposa County, California]] [[Category:Yosemite National Park]]
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