Mount Hunter (Alaska)

{{Short description|Mountain in Alaska}} {{Use American English|date=February 2026}} {{Use mdy dates|date=January 2025}} {{Infobox mountain | name = Mount Hunter | other_name = '''Begguya''' | image = Mt. Hunter from NW (Kahilta Base Camp).jpg | image_caption = Mount Hunter from the northwest (Kahilta Base Camp) | elevation_system = NAVD88 | elevation_ft = 14,573 | elevation_ref = <ref name=PB>{{cite peakbagger|pid=285|title=Mount Hunter, Alaska|access-date=December 30, 2015 }}</ref> | prominence_ft = 4653 | prominence_ref = <ref name=PB/> | isolation = 6.88 mi (11.07 km) | isolation_ref = <ref name=PB/> | parent_peak = | range = [[Alaska Range]] | listing = {{unbulleted list |[[List of the highest major summits of North America|North America highest peaks]] 22nd |[[List of the highest major summits of the United States|US highest major peaks]] 10th |[[List of the highest major summits of Alaska|Alaska highest major peaks]] 10th }} | location = [[Matanuska-Susitna Borough, Alaska|Matanuska-Susitna Borough]], [[Alaska|Alaska, U.S.]] | map = USA Alaska | map_caption = Location in Alaska | label_position = left | mapframe = yes | mapframe-zoom = 8 | mapframe-caption = Interactive map of Mount Hunter | coordinates = {{coord|62|57|03|N|151|05|22|W|type:mountain_region:US-AK_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}} | coordinates_ref = <ref name=gnis>{{cite gnis|id=1403631|name=Mount Hunter|access-date=2014-08-03}}</ref> | topo = [[United States Geological Survey|USGS]] Talkeetna D-3<ref name=gnis/> | first_ascent = 1954 by [[Fred Beckey]], [[Heinrich Harrer]], Henry Meybohm<ref name=AAJ_1955/> | easiest_route = serious snow/ice/rock climb ([[Grade (climbing)|Alaska Grade 4, 5.8, AI 3]]) }}

'''Mount Hunter''' or '''Begguya''' is a [[mountain]] in [[Denali National Park and Preserve|Denali National Park]] in [[Alaska]]. It is approximately {{convert|8|mi|abbr=out|spell=in}} south of [[Denali]], the highest peak in North America. "Begguya" means child (of Denali) in the [[Dena'ina language]]. Mount Hunter is the third-highest major peak in the [[Alaska Range]].{{ref|third}}

Mount Hunter has a complex structure: it is topped by a large, low-angled glacier plateau, connecting the North (Main) Summit and the South Summit ({{convert|13965|ft|abbr=out|disp=or}}). Long, corniced ridges extend in various directions; between them are exceptionally steep faces.

==Naming of the mountain== The native name for the mountain is '''Begguya''', meaning "Denali's Child". Early prospectors referred to the mountain as Mount Roosevelt. In 1903, Robert Dunn, a reporter for the ''New York Commercial Advertiser'', visited the area as part of [[Frederick Cook]]'s attempt to climb Denali. He bestowed the name of his aunt Anna Falconnet Hunter (1885–1941), who financed his trip, on a high nearby mountain, prominent from the northwest. This was, in fact, a different peak, now known as Kahiltna Dome. The name Hunter was mistakenly applied to the present-day Mount Hunter by a government surveyor in 1906.<ref>Jonathan Waterman, ''High Alaska'', AAC Press, 1988.</ref>

In October 2010, the South Summit was named [[Mount Stevens (Alaska)|Mount Stevens]], after [[Ted Stevens]] (1923–2010), a former senator of Alaska.<ref name="alaskadispatch">{{cite web |url = http://www.alaskadispatch.com/dispatches/alaska-beat/88-alaska-beat/7202-hello-mount-stevens |title = Hello, Mount Stevens! |date = October 19, 2010 |work = Alaska Beat |publisher = Alaska Dispatch Publishing |access-date = 2010-10-19 |url-status = dead |archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20101023131553/http://alaskadispatch.com/dispatches/alaska-beat/88-alaska-beat/7202-hello-mount-stevens |archive-date = October 23, 2010 }}</ref>

==Climbing history== Despite being much lower in elevation than Denali (formerly Mount McKinley), Mount Hunter is a more difficult climb, due to its steep faces and corniced ridges; it also sees far less traffic than its larger neighbor.

[[Fred Beckey]], [[Heinrich Harrer]], and Henry Meybohm completed the first ascent in 1954, via the long West Ridge; this was a great accomplishment for the time and used techniques such as extensive front-pointing which were unusual in the climbing world.<ref name=AAJ_1955/>

Beginning in 1977, with [[Michael Kennedy (climber)|Michael Kennedy]] and [[George Henry Lowe|George Lowe]]'s climb of a route on the northwest face of Mount Hunter, this steep rock and ice face has been the scene of many landmark hard climbs.

===Notable ascents=== * 1954 ''West Ridge'' - first ascent of the peak by [[Fred Beckey]], [[Heinrich Harrer]], and Henry Meybohm<ref>Selters 2004, p. 170</ref><ref name=AAJ_1955/> * 1977 ''Lowe-Kennedy'', on the north face.<ref>Selters 2004, p. 263</ref> * 1978 ''Southeast Spur'' by John Mallon Waterman (solo, 145 days)<ref>{{cite web |last1=Krakauer |first1=Jon |author-link1=Jon Krakauer |title=Death of an Innocent: How Christopher McCandless lost his way in the wilds |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/death-of-an-innocent-in-1990-chris-mccandless-left-his-welloff-east-coast-family-gave-his-college-fund-to-oxfam-and-took-to-the-road--young-idealistic-invincible-last-year-equipped-with-little-more-than-tolstoy-and-a-rifle-he-hitched-into-alaska-there-the-wilderness-turned-against-him-1454550.html |website=[[The Independent]] |publisher=[[Outside (magazine)|Outside Magazine]] |access-date=June 28, 2020 |archive-url=https://archive.today/20140316152121/http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/death-of-an-innocent-in-1990-chris-mccandless-left-his-welloff-east-coast-family-gave-his-college-fund-to-oxfam-and-took-to-the-road--young-idealistic-invincible-last-year-equipped-with-little-more-than-tolstoy-and-a-rifle-he-hitched-into-alaska-there-the-wilderness-turned-against-him-1454550.html |archive-date=2014-03-16 |date=January 1993 |url-status=dead}}</ref> * 1981 ''Moonflower Buttress'' (Alaska Grade 6: 5.8 A3 AI6 6100') first ascent to last rock band by [[Mugs Stump]] and Paul Aubry (NZ).<ref name="Westman">{{Cite web | last = Westman | first = Mark | title = Hunter: Grand repeat and epic near-ascent | work = Alpinist Newswire | publisher = Alpinist Magazine | date = May 25, 2007 | url = http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP19/newswire-hunter-westman-walsh-bracey-houseman | access-date = July 24, 2010 }}</ref> * 1983 ''Moonflower Buttress'' to summit, first complete ascent by Todd Bibler and Doug Klewin.<ref name="Westman"/> *1985 "Diamond Arete" (Alaska Grade 6) first ascent by Jack Tackle and Jim Donini * 1989 ''Northwest Face'' first ascent by [[Conrad Anker]] and Seth 'S.T.' Shaw, summit attained July 3, 1989.<ref name=AAJ_1990>{{cite aaj | last = Anker | first = Conrad | title = Hunter's Northwest Face | volume = 42 | issue = 64 | pages = 36–38 | location = NYC, NY, USA | year = 1990 | article_id=12199003700 | isbn = 0-930410-43-2 | links=off|access-date = 2020-11-22}}</ref> *1994 ''Deprivation'', (Alaska Grade 6, Alpine ED+, 90deg ice) first ascent by Scott Backes and Mark Francis Twight.<ref name=AAJ_1995_mt>{{Cite aaj | last = Twight | first = Mark Francis | article_id=12199501100 | title = "Deprivation" on Mount Hunter | volume = 37 | issue = 69 | pages = 11–14 | location = Golden, CO, USA | year = 1995 | isbn = 0-930410-61-0 |links=off|access-date=2025-05-05 }}</ref> *1994 ''Wall of Shadows'', (Alaska Grade 6, AI6+ 5.9 A4) first ascent by [[Greg Child]] and [[Michael Kennedy (climber)|Michael Kennedy]].<ref name=AAJ_1995_mk>{{Cite aaj | article_id=12199500100 | last = Kennedy | first = Michael | title = Shadows of Doubt, Mount Hunter | volume = 37 | issue = 69 | pages = 1–10 | location = Golden, CO, USA | year = 1995 | isbn = 0-930410-61-0 | links=off|access-date = 2020-11-22}}</ref>

==Gallery== <gallery widths="180px" class="center"> File:Climbers on the SW Ridge of Mt. Hunter, Alaska.jpg|Looking down the SW Ridge at about 10,500 ft File:Mount Hunter - Alaska.jpg|Mount Hunter File:Mt Hunter Alaska Sunrise.jpg|Sunrise on Mount Hunter File:Mount Hunter aerial.jpg|Mount Hunter </gallery>

[[File:Mt McKinley wide view from Kashwitna Lake.jpg|thumb|center|upright=2.3|Mount Hunter, nestled between Mount Foraker and Denali]] {{clear}}

==See also== {{Portal|North America|United States|Alaska|Mountains }} *[[List of mountain peaks of North America]] **[[List of mountain peaks of the United States]] ***[[List of mountain peaks of Alaska]] *[[List of the highest major summits of the United States]] *[[List of the most prominent summits of the United States]] {{Clear}}

==Notes== # {{note|third}} This is excluding the North Peak and other sub-summits of [[Denali]].

==References== {{Reflist|30em|refs= <ref name=AAJ_1955> {{cite aaj | article_id=12195503900 | title = Mt. Deborah and Mt. Hunter: First Ascents | year = 1955 | volume = 9 | issue = 2 | author = Beckey, Fred | author-link = Fred Beckey | access-date = 2020-11-22}}</ref> }}

;Sources * {{cite book | last = Selters | first = Andy | title = Ways to the Sky | publisher = The American Alpine Club Press | year = 2004 | location = Golden, CO, USA | isbn = 0-930410-83-1}}

==External links== {{Sister project links|Mount Hunter}} * Mount Hunter weather: [https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Hunter/forecasts/4442 Mountain Forecast]

{{DEFAULTSORT:Hunter, Mount}} [[Category:Alaska Range]] [[Category:Mountains of Matanuska-Susitna Borough, Alaska]] [[Category:Four-thousanders of the United States|Hunter]] [[Category:Mountains of Denali National Park and Preserve]]