{{Short description|Bouldering route in Yosemite, US}} {{Use dmy dates|date=August 2023}} {{italic title}} {{Infobox climbing route | name = Midnight Lightning | photo = Midnight Lightning yosemite.jpg | photo_width = 190px | photo_caption = Climber holding the "lip" on Midnight Lightning, preparing for the [[Glossary of climbing terms#M|mantel-move]] | map = California#USA | map_width = | map_caption = | location = [[Yosemite National Park]] | coords = {{Coord|37.7418|-119.602|format=dms}} | coords_ref = <ref name=thecrag/> | climbing_area = [[Camp 4 (Yosemite)]] | route_type = [[Bouldering]] | rock_type = [[Granite]] | vertical_gain = {{Convert|7.62|m|ft|adj=on}}<ref name=thecrag>{{cite web | website=TheCrag| url=https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/united-states/yosemite-national-park/route/18620449 |title=Midnight Lightning V8 | accessdate=3 February 2022}}</ref> | pitches = | rating = {{Boulder grade|V8}}<ref name=thecrag/> | grade = | route_setter = | first_ascent = | first_free_ascent = [[Ron Kauk]], May 1978 | first_female_free_ascent= [[Lynn Hill]], May 1998 | known_for = {{plainlist| *[[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by men|Second-ever]] consensus {{boulder grade|V8}} in history }} }} '''''Midnight Lightning''''' is a {{Convert|7.62|m|ft|adj=on}} high [[granite]] [[bouldering]] route on the [[Columbia Boulder]] in [[Camp 4 (Yosemite)|Camp 4]] of [[Yosemite National Park]]. When first solved in May 1978 by American [[rock climber]] [[Ron Kauk]], it was graded at {{Boulder grade|V8}}, which was the world's [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Solved by men|second-ever]] boulder route at that grade, and the first in North America. Even today, the route is still considered a "hard" V8 grade. ''Midnight Lightning'' is the most notable bouldering route in climbing along with ''[[Dreamtime (climb)|Dreamtime]]'', and its ascent is considered an important moment in the history and the development of bouldering as a sport in its own right.

==History==

It is believed that bouldering pioneer John "Yabo" Yablonski (the inventor of the [[Glossary of climbing terms#sit start|sit start]])<ref name=CL3>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine) | Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/bouldering-sit-start-john-yablonski/ | first=Victor | last=Copeland | date=15 October 2022 | accessdate=13 August 2023 | title=The Weird Origins Of Bouldering's Sit Start}}</ref> discovered the line of a potential new bouldering problem on the Columbia boulder while wandering around Camp 4 in a drug-intoxicated state in early 1978.<ref name=CL3/><ref name=KM/> Yablonski showed it to Yosemite's two leading rock climbers, [[Ron Kauk]] and [[John Bachar]].<ref name=CL5/><ref name=KM/> Bachar recounted: "It was Yabo [John Yablonski] who actually 'found' Midnight Lightning. He was sitting in front of it one day and came over to me and Ron Kauk and said he found a new boulder problem. He said it would go. We laughed and said it was impossible. We thought there was about as much chance of doing it as there was the chance that a lightning bolt could strike at midnight (like in the [[Jimi Hendrix|Hendrix]] song ''[[Midnight Lightning]]''), so I drew a bolt on it in chalk. That's it—pretty stupid, huh?"<ref name=CL5>{{cite magazine | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]]| url=https://www.climbing.com/places/beyond-the-bolt-the-past-present-and-future-of-yosemite-bouldering/ | date=9 January 2018 | accessdate=3 February 2022 | first=James | last=Lucas | title=Beyond the Bolt: The Past, Present, and Future of Yosemite Bouldering}}</ref>

Kauk and Bachar set to work attempting the route, and while making good early progress, continuously failed to execute the awkward [[Glossary of climbing terms#M|mantel-move]] needed to overcome the "lip" which is at a height of almost {{Convert|5|m|ft|adj=off}}.<ref name=PM1/><ref name=CL5/><ref name=KM/> Eventually, in May 1978, Kauk overcame the mantle and completed the first ascent, with Bachar making the second ascent shortly afterward.<ref name=CL5/><ref name=KM/> After completing his ascent, Bachar drew the chalk lightning bolt on the boulder.<ref name=CL5/><ref name=GR2>{{cite web | website=Gripped.com | url=https://gripped.com/routes/midnight-lightning/ |title=Midnight Lightning |date=26 December 2016 | accessdate=3 February 2022}}</ref> The route repelled all attempts to repeat Kauk and Bachar's ascent for 5 years, despite the pair being able to repeat it continuously, and often to an audience, with Kauk recounting: "We always waited until as many people as possible had gathered, then it was showtime".<ref name=KM/>

Kauk and Bachar graded the route at {{boulder grade|V8}}, which was the first V8-graded boulder route in North America,<ref name=PM1/> and their ascent would be recognized as only the [[List of first ascents (sport climbing)#Solved by men|second-ever]] ascent of a {{boulder grade|7B+}} graded boulder in history.<ref name=PMEVOL>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain.com | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/the-evolution-of-free-climbing.html | title=The evolution of free climbing | date=23 December 2012 | first=Maurizio | last=Oviglia | accessdate=4 January 2022}}</ref><ref name=PM1>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/midnight-lightning-the-legendary-boulder-problem-in-yosemite.html | title=Midnight Lightning, the legendary boulder problem in Yosemite | date=9 June 2017 | accessdate=3 February 2022}}</ref> Their grade assessment has been upheld over time and even today, ''Midnight Lightning'' is regarded as a "hard" V8 route.<ref name=PM1/> The first female ascent was by [[Lynn Hill]] in 1998, although it was not the [[List of first ascents (sport climbing)#Solved by women|first-ever ]] {{boulder grade|7B+}} ascent by a female (that was by {{ill|Catherine Miquel|fr}} in 1989 on ''Le Carnage'').<ref name=PM1/><ref name=PMEVOL/> The second female ascent was by [[Lisa Rands]] in 2001.<ref name=CDE/>

In 2002, Kauk's son Lonnie ascended the route, which he attributed to being the "key" that unlocked his path into professional adventure sports.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/the-climbing-q-a-lonnie-kosuko-kauk/ | first=Chris | last=Van Leuven | date=6 September 2019 | accessdate=14 August 2023 | title=The Climbing Q&A: Lonnie Kosuko Kauk}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Alpinist (magazine)|Alpinist]] | url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web19s/wfeature-a66-magic-line-lonnie-kauk | title=Magic Line | first=Paula | last=Wright | date=24 May 2019 | accessdate=14 August 2023}}</ref>

===Lightning bolt removal=== [[File:Midnight Lightning erased on 5-28-19.jpg|thumb|The iconic chalk [[Thunderbolt|lightning bolt]] has been removed several times.]]

In May 2013, the chalk-drawn lightning bolt was scrubbed off the boulder,<ref name="nobolt">{{Cite web |url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40853 |title=Midnight Lightning bolt, the icon of free climbing in Yosemite disappears for a day |website=PlanetMountain.com |date=7 May 2013 |accessdate=3 February 2022}}</ref> by climber and ''[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]]'' magazine contributor James Lucas, who claimed the image had lost its magic, and was now more of a trademark or tourist attraction.<ref name=CL5/><ref>{{cite magazine | magazine=[[Rock & Ice]] | url=https://www.rockandice.com/tuesday-night-bouldering/tnb-erasing-midnight-lightning/ | date=2013 | title=TNB: Erasing Midnight Lightning}}</ref> The bolt was re-drawn in the same location a few days later.<ref name=GR2/> Since then, there have been other incidents, but Kauk and others have regularly restored the chalk bolt image.<ref name=CL5/>

==Route==

Sam Moses, writing in ''[[Sports Illustrated]]'' said the most difficult move on Midnight Lightning is a "spider-monkey swing {{convert|15|ft|abbr=off}} off the ground. The climber must suspend themself by the fingertips of their left hand, swing around a ledge of rock, and propel themself far enough up, about four feet, to grab a precarious fingertip hold with their right hand. To do that they have to create momentum from stillness."<ref name=SI1986>{{Cite magazine |url= http://sportsillustrated.cnn.com/vault/article/magazine/MAG1064893/5/index.htm |archive-url= https://archive.today/20130616103830/http://sportsillustrated.cnn.com/vault/article/magazine/MAG1064893/5/index.htm |url-status= dead |archive-date= 16 June 2013 | title=On The Rocks, Kauk Is It |first=Sam | last=Moses |magazine=[[Sports Illustrated]] |date=2 June 1986 |accessdate=9 May 2013}}</ref>

==Legacy==

''Midnight Lightning'' is often called the world's most famous bouldering route.<ref name=PM1/><ref name=KM/><ref name=DS1/><ref>{{cite magazine | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/videos/adam-ondra-climbing-the-americas-part-1-midnight-lightning/ | date=14 November 2018 | accessdate=3 February 2022 | title=Adam Ondra: Climbing the Americas (Part 1)—Midnight Lightning}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=Gripped.com | url=https://gripped.com/news/tom-herbert-51-sends-midnight-lightning-v8-in-yosemite/ | title=Tom Herbert, 51, Sends Midnight Lightning V8 in Yosemite | date=26 March 2021 | accessdate=3 February 2022}}</ref> In a 2009 article on the famous V15 boulder, ''[[Dreamtime (climb)|Dreamtime]]'', ''PlanetMountain'' called it: "... one of the most famous boulders in the world, second perhaps only to ''Midnight Lightning'' ...".<ref name=PM20>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | accessdate=11 August 2023 | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/dreamtime-at-cresciano-the-boulder-problem-by-fred-nicole-between-dream-and-reality.html | title=Dreamtime at Cresciano, the boulder problem by Fred Nicole between dream and reality | date=6 July 2017}}</ref> In a similar vein in 2015, ''[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]]'' called ''Dreamtime'': ".. arguably the first internationally famous boulder problem since ''Midnight Lightning''".<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | first=Dougald | last=McDonald | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/climb-of-the-century/#_pay-wall | date=2 February 2015 | accessdate=12 August 2023 | title=Climb of the Century? 7 Groundbreaking Ascents (Besides the Dawn Wall) | quote=}}</ref>

The first ascent was not only an important part of Yosemite climbing history,<ref name=CL5/><ref name=OUT/> but was also a major milestone in the development of bouldering as a sport in its own right, with one of the hardest known bouldering routes in the world – and the first consensus V8 route – now established in the middle of Camp 4, which was one of the most important gathering places for the world's leading rock climbers.<ref name=KM/><ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/midnight-lightning-filippo-manca-explores-the-legendary-ron-kauk-boulder-problem-in-yosemite.html | date=6 November 2017 | accessdate=3 February 2022 | title=Midnight Lightning: Filippo Manca explores the legendary Ron Kauk boulder problem in Yosemite}}</ref><ref>{{cite book | title=Yosemite Valley Bouldering | date=15 September 2007 | first=Matt | last=Wilder | publisher=SuperTopo | edition=1st | isbn=978-0976523529|page=25}}</ref> The ascent led to a dramatic increase in interest in bouldering as a standalone sport,<ref name=UKC/> and an increase new bouldering technical and grade milestones.<ref name=CL5/><ref name=KM/>

In 2021, when the [[American Alpine Club]] awarded the Underhill Lifetime Achievement award to Kauk, their citation read: "Perhaps Ron's most iconic climbing achievement is a boulder problem right in the middle of Camp 4 known as Midnight Lightning".<ref>{{cite web | website=[[American Alpine Club]] | url=https://americanalpineclub.org/abd-awards | title=MEET THE AWARDEES | date=2021 | accessdate=3 February 2022}}</ref> In a 2017 documentary on his first ascent, Kauk said that: "... to this day [it] has had an effect on my personal sense of place and history, within the climbing community, throughout the world".<ref name=PM1/>

==Ascents==

The first ascents of ''Midnight Lightning'' include:

*1st. [[Ron Kauk]] in May 1978.<ref name=KM/><ref name=OUT/> *2nd. [[John Bachar]] in May 1978.<ref name=KM/><ref name=OUT>{{cite web | magazine=[[Outside (magazine)|Outside]] | url=https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/25-greatest-moments-yosemite-climbing-history/ | title=The 25 Greatest Moments in Yosemite Climbing History | author=The Editorial Staff | date=1 June 2016 | accessdate=14 August 2023}}</ref> *3rd. Skip Guerin in 1983.<ref name=UKC/><ref name=KM/>

* 4th. Kurt Smith (the "General") in 1984.<ref>{{cite book | title=Bouldering: Movement, Tactics, and Problem Solving | first=Peter |last=Beal | date=October 2011 | isbn=978-1594855009 | chapter=Introduction: The Essence of Climbing | publisher=Mountaineers Books | quote=Photo: Kurt Smith on the fourth ascent of Midnight Lightning in 1984 }}</ref>

*5th. Scott Cosgrove in 1984, very soon after Kurt climbed it.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/remembering-a-legend-scott-cosgrove/#_pay-wall | title=Remembering a Legend: Scott Cosgrove | accessdate=13 August 2023 | date=25 February 2016 | first=James | last=Lucas | quote=In Yosemite, Cosgrove mastered the bouldering circuit, making the fifth ascent of Midnight Lightning ....}}</ref>

*6th. [[Jerry Moffatt]] in 1985; first ascent in a day.<ref name=UKC>{{cite web | magazine=UKClimbing | url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_evolution_of_bouldering-6068 | first=Mick | last=Ward | date=21 January 2014 | accessdate=13 August 2023 | title=The Evolution of Bouldering | quote=}}</ref><ref name=KM>{{cite web | magazine=Klettermagazin | first=Steffen |last=Kern | url=https://kletterszene.com/stories/the-classics-boulder-midnight-lightning/ | title=The Classic Boulder—Midnight Lightning | date=10 June 2017 | accessdate=13 August 2023}}</ref>

*7th. Celso "Finuco" Martínez in June 1986.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Desnivel]] | url=https://www.desnivel.com/personajes/20-anos-de-bloque-con-celso-martinez-finuco/ | date=11 July 2001 | accessdate=15 August 2023 | title=20 years of bouldering with Celso Martínez 'Finuco' | language=es | trans-title=es}}</ref><ref name=DS1>{{cite web | magazine=[[Desnivel]] | url= https://www.desnivel.com/bulder/midnight-lightning-el-problema-de-boulder-mas-famoso-del-mundo/ | date=23 July 2019 | accessdate=15 August 2023 | title=«Midnight Lightning», the most famous bouldering problem in the world | language=es | trans-title=es}}</ref>

The first female free ascents ([[FFFA]]) include: * 1st. [[Lynn Hill]] in May 1998.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Rock & Ice]] | url=https://www.rockandice.com/videos/climbing/lynn-hill-on-midnight-lightning-v8-camp-4-yosemite/ | title=Lynn Hill on Midnight Lightning (V8), Camp 4, Yosemite | accessdate=13 August 2023 | date=30 September 2013 }}</ref> * 2nd. [[Lisa Rands]] in January 2001.<ref name=CDE>{{cite web | website=Climbing.de | url=https://www.climbing.de/news/second-female-ascent-of-midnight-lightning-43136.html | title=Second female ascent of Midnight Lightning | date=17 January 2001 | accessdate=4 February 2022}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=UKClimbing | url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/01/second_female_ascent_of_midnight_lightning-57 | title=Second female ascent of Midnight Lightning | first=Charles | last=Authur | date=17 January 2001 | accessdate=13 August 2023}}</ref> *3rd. [[Angie Payne]] in 2004.<ref>{{cite magazine | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/legends-angie-payne/ | date=11 October 2011 | first=Jeff | last=Achey | title=Legends: Angie Payne | accessdate=31 January 2022}}</ref> *4th. Ally Dorey in May 2006.<ref>{{cite book | title=Yosemite Valley Bouldering | date=15 September 2007 | first=Matt | last=Wilder | isbn=978-0976523529 | page=30 | publisher=SuperTopo | edition=1st}}</ref> *5th. Andrea Szekely in November 2009.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.8a.nu/news/midnight-lightning-see-its-5th-female-ascent-12582 | title=Midnight Lightning see its 5th female ascent! | date=2 November 2009 | accessdate=13 August 2023 | first=Jens | last=Larssen|magazine=Vertical Life}}</ref>

==Filmography== * Documentary with Ron Kauk, David Sjöquist and Caro North on Midnight Lightning: {{cite AV media | title=The Classics Boulder Episode 1 Midnight Lightning | asin= | type=Motion picture | date=June 2017| publisher=[[Mammut Sports Group|Mammut]] | people= | url= https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/midnight-lightning-the-legendary-boulder-problem-in-yosemite.html | accessdate=3 January 2022}}

==See also== *[[History of rock climbing]] *[[List of grade milestones in rock climbing]] *''[[Dreamtime (climb)|Dreamtime]]'', famous {{boulder grade|v15}} boulder in [[Cresciano]], Switzerland *''[[The Mandala]]'', famous {{boulder grade|v12}} boulder in [[The Buttermilks]], California *''[[The Wheel of Life]]'', famous {{boulder grade|v15}} boulder in the [[Grampians National Park|Grampians]], Australia

==References== {{Reflist}}

===Further reading=== *{{cite book | title=Yosemite Bouldering | first1=Shannon | last1=Joslin | first2=James |last2=Lucas | first3=Kimbrough | last3=Moore | date=2020 | publisher=Sentinel Press| isbn=9781735608006}} *{{cite book | title=Yosemite Valley Bouldering | date=15 September 2007 | first=Matt | last=Wilder | publisher=SuperTopo | edition=1st | isbn=978-0976523529}}

==External links== *[https://hardclimbs.info/climbs/midnight-lightning/ Midnight Lightning V8 7B: The world's most famous boulder], ''Hard Climbs'' (2023) *[https://www.99boulders.com/most-famous-boulder-problems Rock Stars: 10 of the Most Famous Boulder Problems in the World], ''99Boulders'' (2021) *[https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ron-kauk-on-midnight-lightening-yosemite.html VIDEO: Ron Kauk climbs Midnight Lightning V8, Yosemite], ''PlanetMountain'' (2011) *[https://www.rockandice.com/videos/climbing/the-classics-midnight-lightning-v8-with-ron-kauk/ VIDEO: The Classics – Midnight Lightning (V8), interview with Ron Kauk], ''[[Rock & Ice]]'' (2017) *[https://www.climbing.com/videos/adam-ondra-climbing-the-americas-part-1-midnight-lightning/ Adam Ondra: Climbing the Americas, Midnight Lightning] ''[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]]'' (2018)

{{Yosemite National Park}} [[Category:Boulder climbing routes]] [[Category:Yosemite National Park]] [[Category:Climbing in the United States]]