Maripol

{{Short description|French-American jewellery and fashion designer (born 1957)}} {{Infobox person | name = Maripol | image =  | alt =  | caption = | birth_name =  | birth_date =  | birth_place = Rabat, Morocco | death_date =  | death_place = | nationality = | other_names = | occupation = artist, film producer and fashion designer | years_active = | known_for = Designed and styled Madonna in the 1980s | notable_works = }}

'''Maripol''' (b. 1955)<ref>{{Cite web |title=Maripol {{!}} MoMA |url=https://www.moma.org/artists/72290 |access-date=2023-02-26 |website=The Museum of Modern Art |language=en}}</ref> is an artist, film producer, fashion designer and stylist. She has had an influence on the looks of influential artists such as Madonna and Grace Jones. As part of the 1980s New York downtown scene, she captured the likes of Jean-Michel Basquiat, Keith Haring, Andy Warhol, and Debbie Harry with her Polaroid camera. Maripol also produced films, most notably ''Downtown 81''.

== Life and career == Maripol was born in Rabat, Morocco.<ref name="theguardian">{{cite web|access-date=2020-12-17|title=Sade electrifies a New York party: Maripol's best photograph|url=http://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2020/dec/17/sade-electrifies-new-york-party-maripols-best-photograph|date=17 December 2020|website=The Guardian}}</ref> She was a student of the École des Beaux-Arts in Nantes, France.<ref name="theguardian"/> She was brought up in France, moving to New York City at the age of 19 in 1976 with her then-boyfriend Edo Bertoglio.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web|title=Maripol {{!}} Polaroid Artist {{!}} Art For Sale|url=https://www.archeus.com/artists/maripol|access-date=2020-09-29|website=Archeus Post-Modern|language=en-US}}</ref> Within a year, she was working as a designer at Italian fashion label Fiorucci, where she would soon become art director.<ref>{{cite news |last1=Bateman |first1=Kristen |title=Oral History: Remembering New York's Fiorucci Store |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2017/09/19/t-magazine/fiorucci-new-york-store-history.html |access-date=17 February 2019 |work=The New York Times |date=19 September 2017}}</ref>

Maripol took her first Polaroid with an SX-70 camera in 1977. She photographed the characters frequenting Studio 54, including Andy Warhol, Steve Rubell, Bianca Jagger, Jerry Hall, and Grace Jones.<ref>{{Cite web|last=Pulgar|first=E. R.|date=2020-12-15|title=From punks to club kids, Maripol documented 80s New York after dark|url=https://i-d.co/article/from-punks-to-club-kids-maripol-documented-80s-new-york-after-dark/|access-date=2021-04-30|website=i-D|language=en}}</ref> Her photographs of the Mudd Club have been exhibited at the Rizzoli and Earl McGrath galleries in Manhattan and published in ''V'' magazine.<ref name=":2">{{Cite web|last=Blanks|first=Tim|date=February 25, 2001|title=Mudd Quake|url=https://archive.nytimes.com/www.nytimes.com/library/magazine/specials/20010225mag-muddquake.html|access-date=2020-09-29|website=The New York Times|language=en-US}}</ref>

In 1979, Maripol met Jean-Michel Basquiat, then a graffiti artist under the pseudonym SAMO, and the two would soon become close acquaintances. She was the art director for ''Downtown 81'', a film starring Basquiat and featuring Blondie lead singer Deborah Harry and with musical interludes by many New York No Wave bands. The film was directed by her then-partner Edo Bertoglio and written and produced by Glenn O'Brien. It was filmed in 1980-81 as ''New York Beat'', but it wasn't released until 2000 as ''Downtown 81''.<ref>{{Cite web|date=2019-11-12|title=Revisiting "Downtown 81": Maripol's Love Letter to Basquiat, and His New York City|url=https://www.interviewmagazine.com/film/downtown-81-maripol-jean-michel-basquiat-downtown-new-york-city-metrograph|access-date=2020-09-29|website=Interview Magazine|language=en-US}}</ref> Executive producer Michael Zilkha enlisted Maripol to work on post-production of the film, which premiered at the Director's Fortnight in Cannes.<ref>{{cite web|last1=Kaufman|first1=Anthony|date=13 July 2001|title=INTERVIEW: Out of the Past: "Downtown 81's" New York Odyssey|url=https://www.indiewire.com/2001/07/interview-out-of-the-past-downtown-81s-new-york-odyssey-80880/|access-date=17 February 2019|website=IndieWire|language=en}}</ref>

Maripol met pop singer Madonna in 1982. She styled her looks for the albums ''Madonna'' (1983) and ''Like a Virgin'' (1984), including the music videos "Burning Up" (1983), "Like a Virgin" (1984), and "Dress You Up" (1985).<ref>{{Cite web|title=Maripol|url=http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0548038/|access-date=2021-04-30|website=IMDb}}</ref> Madonna's trademark black rubber bracelets, jewellery and crucifixes became an iconic fashion trend of the 1980s.<ref>{{Cite web|last=Barr|first=Sabrina|date=July 26, 2018|title=Dress you up: Meet Maripol, the woman behind Madonna's early, iconic look|url=https://www.yahoo.com/news/dress-meet-maripol-woman-behind-madonnas-early-iconic-look-015528814.html|access-date=2021-04-27|website=Yahoo|language=en-US}}</ref> Maripol also made a line of official Madonna jewelry and accessories for the 1985 Virgin Tour.<ref name=":1">{{Cite web|date=August 13, 2009|title=Maripol Shot Madonna|url=http://www.missrosen.com/tag/dangelo/|access-date=2020-09-29|website=www.missrosen.com}}</ref> By the mid-80s, Maripol had achieved some success with her own shop, Maripolitan, in the NoHo area of New York.<ref name=":0" />

The deaths of Maripol's friends Warhol in 1987 and Basquiat in 1988 affected her profoundly. Maripol closed her shop Maripolitan and moved to Los Angeles, where she would marry, before returning to New York to raise her son, Lino.<ref name=":0" />

Maripol was the art director on music videos for Cher, D’Angelo, Elton John, and Luther Vandross. She also has art directed films by Marcus Nispel and Abel Ferrara.<ref name=":1" /><ref name=":0" />

In 2010, she released the book ''Maripol: Little Red Riding Hood'', a collection her photographs, sketchbooks and inspirational material.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Maripol: Little Red Riding Hood |url=https://www.nowness.com/story/maripol-little-red-riding-hood |website=Nowness}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|last1=Bennett|first1=Kim Taylor|date=11 March 2014|title=A Conversation with New York Legend—Photographer Maripol|url=https://www.vice.com/en/article/a-conversation-with-new-york-legendphotographer-maripol/|access-date=17 February 2019|website=Noisey}}</ref> She also published the book ''Maripola X'', featuring 200 of her Polaroid photographs and 69 previously unpublished poems, written in both French and English.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Bennett |first1=Kim Taylor |title=A Conversation with New York Legend—Photographer Maripol |url=https://www.vice.com/en/article/a-conversation-with-new-york-legendphotographer-maripol/ |website=Noisey |access-date=17 February 2019 |date=11 March 2014}}</ref> That year, Maripol had a collection of jewelry and tee shirts in the Marc by Marc Jacobs stores, inspired by the jewelry she created in the 1980s.<ref>Shepherd, Julianne Escobedo, [http://www.thefader.com/2010/06/29/qa-iconic-designer-maripol-on-new-wave-new-york-and-her-reissues-with-marc-jacobs/ "Q&A: Iconic Designer Maripol on New Wave New York and Her Reissues with Marc Jacobs"], The Fader, June 29, 2010.</ref> She also released "Love Each other", her first record as singer with the French composer and producer {{Interlanguage link multi|Léonard Lasry|fr}} which followed her collaboration with the French fashion label Each x Other.<ref>{{Cite web|date=2015-05-29|title="Love each other": Maripol & Léonard Lasry|url=https://www.documentjournal.com/2015/05/maripol/|access-date=2020-09-29|website=Document Journal|language=en-US}}</ref>

In 2013, Maripol directed ''The Message'', a documentary about Keith Haring, for his retrospective at the Musée d'Art Moderne in Paris.<ref>{{Cite web|last=Moss|first=Sy|date=March 14, 2017|title=What We're Watching: Keith Haring's The Message|url=https://5mag.net/features/documentary/keith-haring-the-message/|access-date=2021-04-30|website=5 Magazine|language=en-US}}</ref>

Maripol has been published in various publications such as ''The New York Times Magazine'', ''ELLE'', ''i-D'', ''WWD'', ''InStyle'', ''The Village Voice'' and ''Time Out New York''.<ref name=":1" />

== Exhibitions == Maripol's photographs have been exhibited at the Rizzoli and Earl McGrath galleries in New York.<ref name=":2" /> Her work has also been exhibited at P.S.1 Contemporary Art Center, the Robert Miller Gallery and Deitch Projects in New York, as well as at the Museé Maillol in Paris.<ref name=":1" />

==Books== *{{cite book|title=New York Beat: Jean-Michel Basquiat in Downtown 81|last1=Basquiat|first1=Jean-Michel|last2=O'Brien|first2=Glen|publisher=Petit Grand Publishing|date=2001|isbn=978-4-939102-22-6}} *''Maripolarama'', powerHouse Books, November 2005 {{ISBN|978-1-57687-272-7}} *''Maripol: Little Red Riding Hood'', [http://www.damianieditore.it/index.php?&LANG=en Damiani], September 2010 {{ISBN|978-88-6208-136-8}}

==References== <references /> ==External links==

* [http://www.maripol.com/ Official Maripol website]

* [https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0548038/?ref_=fn_al_nm_1 Maripol] on IMDB {{ACArt}}

Category:20th-century American jewellers Category:21st-century American jewellers Category:French fashion designers Category:American fashion designers Category:French women fashion designers Category:American women fashion designers Category:1955 births Category:Living people Category:American fashion stylists Category:American jewelry designers Category:People from Rabat