{{Short description|Detached pillar in Yosemite}} {{Infobox mountain | name = Lost Arrow Spire | image = Lost_Arrow_Face,_Yosemite_Falls,_Yosemite_California.jpg | image_size = 200 | elevation_ft = 6930 | elevation_ref = | prominence = | listing = | location = [[Yosemite National Park]] | map = California#USA | map_caption = Location in California | map_size = 240 | label_position = below | range = [[Sierra Nevada (U.S.)|Sierra Nevada]] | coordinates = {{coord|37.75600|N|119.593|W|type:mountain_region:US|display=inline,title}} | coordinates_ref = <ref name="sp">{{cite summitpost |id=151257 |name=Lost Arrow Spire |accessdate=4 December 2014}}</ref> | topo = | type = [[granite]] rock | age = [[Cretaceous]] | first_ascent = | easiest_route = }} '''Lost Arrow Spire''' is a detached pillar in [[Yosemite National Park]], in [[Yosemite Valley]], [[California]], located immediately adjacent to [[Yosemite Falls|Upper Yosemite Falls]]. The structure includes the ''Lost Arrow Spire Chimney'' route which is recognized in the historic climbing text ''[[Fifty Classic Climbs of North America]]''.<ref>{{Fifty Classic Climbs}}</ref> The spire is the location for a dramatic and famous [[Tyrolean traverse]], which has since become an equally notable [[slacklining|slackline]].

==Climbing==

In 1946, the spire was first summited by [[lasso]]ing the tip from the main valley rim wall, 125-feet away, after which 29-year old Ax Nelson [[prusik]]ed the lassoed line to the peak, followed by Jack Arnold. [[Steve Roper]] called it "one of the greatest rope stunts ever pulled off in climbing history", climbers did not recognize it as a true [[rock climbing]] ascent with Nelson saying: "Spectacular and effective though [it] was, this maneuver required very little real climbing".<ref name=Outside>{{cite web | magazine=[[Outside (magazine)|Outside]] | url=https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/25-greatest-moments-yosemite-climbing-history/ | title=The 25 Greatest Moments in Yosemite Climbing History | date=1 June 2016 | accessdate=28 December 2022}}</ref><ref>McNamara, Chris, and Sloan, Erik. ''Yosemite Big Walls''. Mill Valley, CA: SuperTopo, 2005. {{ISBN|0-9672391-9-2}}</ref><ref>{{cite magazine|last=Challacombe|first=J. R.|date=June 1954|title=The Fabulous Sierra Nevada|magazine=The National Geographic Magazine|publisher=National Geographic Society|location=Washington, DC|volume= CV|issue= Six|pages=826–830}}</ref>

That same year, 48-year old Swiss immigrant, [[John Salathé]], had also been attempting the spire and had invented a major improvement to the climbing [[piton]] using the alloy used for the Ford Model A axle, which would be able to endure the compact granite of Yosemite without buckling (called [[Lost Arrow]]s).<ref name=Outside/>

===''Lost Arrow Spire Chimney''=== {{Infobox climbing route | name = Lost Arrow Spire Chimney | location = [[California]], [[United States|USA]] | coordinates = {{coord|37.75600|N|119.593|W|type:mountain_region:US}} | climbing_area = [[Yosemite Valley]] | route_type = [[Aid climbing|Aid]], [[Traditional climbing|Traditional]] | vertical_gain = 1,400 feet | pitches = 10 | rating = 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2 | first_ascent = [[John Salathé|Salathé]], Nelson, 1947. | ffa = [[Jerry Moffatt]], 1985. }} In 1947, Ax Nelson and John Salathé joined forces, and using Salathé's new pitons, made the true [[first ascent]] via the ''Lost Arrow Spire Chimney'' ([[Grade (climbing)|5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2]]), a route that combined both [[traditional climbing]] and [[aid climbing]] techniques, and took the pair 5 days.<ref name=Outside/>

The route is listed in ''[[Fifty Classic Climbs of North America]]'' and is considered a classic.<ref>{{Fifty Classic Climbs|pages=269–275}}</ref><ref>McNamara, Chris, and Sloan, Erik. ''Yosemite Big Walls''. Mill Valley, CA: SuperTopo, ''2005''. {{ISBN|0-9672391-9-2}}</ref><ref>{{cite magazine|last=Challacombe|first=J. R.|date=June 1954|title=The Fabulous Sierra Nevada|magazine=The National Geographic Magazine|publisher=National Geographic Society|location=Washington, DC|volume= CV|issue= Six|pages=826–830}}</ref> Climbing historian Steve Roper called the ascent, "a true Valley milestone: the first big-wall climb ever done in the United States - and without a doubt the beginning of the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing".<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/lost-arrow-spire-in-yosemite-with-sasha-digiulian-and-kevin-jorgeson.html | title=Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite with Sasha DiGiulian and Kevin Jorgeson | date=1 December 2015 | accessdate=28 December 2022}}</ref>

In June 1985, [[Jerry Moffatt]] did the [[first free ascent]] of the ''Lost Arrow Spire Chimney'' with [[Ron Kauk]], as a live television event with an audience of over 30 million for [[American Broadcasting Company|ABC]]'s ''[[Wide World of Sports (American TV program)|Wide World of Sports]]''.<ref>{{cite news | newspaper=[[New York Times]] | date= June 1985 | url=https://www.nytimes.com/1985/06/04/sports/tv-sports-man-and-cameras-vs-rock-on-yosemite-perch.html | title=MAN (AND CAMERAS) VS. ROCK ON YOSEMITE PERCH | first=Michael | last=Katz | accessdate=15 January 2022}}</ref>

In 2020, a six-year-old child named Sam Baker climbed the spire alongside his father.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Men's Journal]] | url=https://www.mensjournal.com/adventure/6-year-old-kid-climbs-yosemites-iconic-lost-arrow-spire-mens-journal/ | title=6-Year-Old Climber Ascends Yosemite's Iconic Lost Arrow Spire, Flies Kite | first=Chris | last=Van Leuven | date=August 2020 | accessdate=5 February 2023}}</ref>

===''Lost Arrow Spire Tip''=== [[File:Lost Arrow Spire - 01.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|left|[[Tyrolean traverse]] from the spire]]

The last two [[pitch (ascent/descent)|pitches]] of ''Lost Arrow Spire Chimney'' are called the ''Lost Arrow Spire Tip'' ([[Grade (climbing)|5.12b or 5.7 C2]]) and complete the detached portion of the spire. The first free ascent of the Tip was in 1984 by a team led by [[Dave Shultz]]. The Tip route is often reached by [[rappelling]] into an area known as ''The Notch''. Once the route is completed climbers can return to the main wall via a dramatic and famous [[Tyrolean traverse]].

==Slacklining== Lost Arrow Spire was to become one of the early hotspots for [[Slacklining#Highlining history|highlining]], the version of [[slackline|slacklining]] in very high places.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[National Geographic]] | url=https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/slacklining-united-states-destinations | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210218141512/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/slacklining-united-states-destinations | url-status=dead | archive-date=February 18, 2021 | title=9 Incredible Places to Slackline in the United States | date=9 August 2017 | first=Seth | last=Heller | accessdate=5 February 2023}}</ref> The line is typically 17-meters long and is 880-meters above the valley floor, and has a downhill (walking towards the Spire) and an uphill (walking away from the Spire) direction.<ref>{{cite web | newspaper=[[The Globe and Mail]] | url=https://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/health-and-fitness/diehards-help-slacklining-edge-into-the-mainstream/article35681086/ | title=A fine balance | first=Dave | last=Ebner | date=13 July 2017 | accessdate=5 February 2023}}</ref>

The first person to perform a slackline to the Lost Arrow Spire was Scott Balcom on July 13, 1985; he used a safety leash.<ref name=PMSL/><ref>YouTube: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6RYJFz1tqI First Slackline Crossing of the Lost Arrow Spire], July 13, 1985</ref> The first female to perform the feat was [[Libby Sauter]] on July 17, 2007; she also used a safety leash.<ref name=PMSL>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url= https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/lost-arrow-spire-highline-the-first-crossing-by-scott-balcom.html| title=Lost Arrow Spire highline: the first crossing by Scott Balcom | date=6 January 2016 | accessdate=28 December 2022}}</ref>

In 1995, Darrin Carter became the first person to perform a slackline to the Lost Arrow Spire without any safety leash, called a "free solo" slackline, which he did on the downhill version; he was also only the second person after Balcom to complete a Lost Arrow Spire slackline.<ref name=PMSL/> In 2003, [[Dean Potter]] became the first person to perform a "free solo" slackline in both downhill and uphill directions; Potter was only the second person to complete a "free solo" Lost Arrow Spire slackline after Carter.<ref name=PMSL/>

==See also== *''[[Separate Reality (climb)|Separate Reality]]'', an iconic [[free solo]]ing route in Yosemite *''[[The Nose (El Capitan)]]'', a {{climbing grade|5.14a}} route in Yosemite *''[[Salathé Wall]]'', a {{climbing grade|5.13}} route in Yosemite {{clear}}

== References == {{reflist}}

== External links == {{commons}} * [http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/151257/lost-arrow-spire.html Lost Arrow Spire, Chimney, TipS], ''Summitpost'' (2022) * [http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yblachim Lost Arrow Spire Chimney], ''SuperTopo'' (2022) * [http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yblalati Lost Arrow Spire Tip], ''SuperTopo'' (2022) {{Yosemite National Park}} [[Category:Big wall climbing routes]] [[Category:Rock formations of Yosemite National Park]] [[Category:Climbing areas of California]] [[Category:Mountains of Mariposa County, California]]