{{Short description|Italian mountaineer}} {{Infobox person |name = Emilio Comici |birth_name = Leonardo Emilio Comici |birth_place = Trieste, Italy |birth_date = {{Birth date|1901|2|21|df=yes}} |death_place = Sëlva, Val Gardena, Italy |death_date = {{Death date and age|1940|10|19|1901|2|21|df=yes}} |occupation = Mountain climber, caver |image = Comici ritratto.jpg }} '''Leonardo Emilio Comici''' (21 February 1901 – 19 October 1940) was an Italian mountain climber and caver.<ref name="Frison-Roche">{{cite book|last1=Frison-Roche|first1=Roger|last2=Jouty|first2=Sylvain|others=Trans. Deke Dusinberre|title=A History of Mountain Climbing|year=1996|publisher=Flammarion|location=Paris, New York|isbn=2-08013-622-4|lccn=96-85980|oclc=36019037|pages=100, 302}}</ref><ref name="Smithsonian">{{cite book|title=Mountaineers: Great Tales of Bravery and Conquest|last=Douglas|first=Ed|others=Smithsonian Institution|location=New York|publisher=DK Publishing|year=2011|isbn=978-0-7566-8682-6|pages=288–289}}</ref><ref name="Pareti">{{cite web|language=Italian|url=http://www.paretiverticali.it/EMILIO%20COMICI.htm|title=Emilio Comici (1901-1940)|year=2012|publisher=Pareti Verticali|accessdate=20 March 2013}}</ref> He made numerous ascents in the Eastern Alps, particularly in the Dolomites (where he made over 200 first ascents during his career) and in the Julian Alps.<ref name="Smithsonian"/><ref name="Pareti"/><ref name="denkmal">{{cite web|url=http://www.val-gardena.com/en/monumente-und-denkmaeler/page621.html|title=Mountain Climber Emilio Comici|publisher=Gardena.Net|date=Winter 2012–2013|accessdate=14 March 2013|id=IT01619310210}}</ref> Comici was nicknamed the "Angel of the Dolomites".<ref name="Smithsonian"/><ref name="Pareti"/><ref name="Civetta">{{cite web|language=Italian|url=http://www.paretiverticali.it/CIVETTA%20VIA%20E.COMICI%20-%20G.htm|title=Civetta|publisher=paretiverticali.it|accessdate=19 March 2013}}</ref>
In the 1930s and 1940s Comici and other climbers (including Riccardo Cassin, Raffaele Carlesso and Alvise Andrich) represented the Italian answer to the achievements of German climbers. Comici perfected the Bavarian technique of mountain climbing, and began the era of "sixth grade" climbing (at that time the highest climbing grade considered humanly surmountable).<ref name="Frison-Roche"/><ref name="bigwalls">{{cite journal|last=Middendorf|first=John|authorlink=John Middendorf|url=http://www.bigwalls.net/climb/mechadv/index.html|title=The Mechanical Advantage|journal=Ascent|year=1999|accessdate=19 March 2013}}</ref> He was the inventor and proponent of using multi-step aid ladders, solid belays, the use of a trail/tag line, and hanging bivouacs, contributing greatly to the techniques of big wall climbing.<ref name="bigwalls"/>
== Biography == [[File:Comici Val Rosandra.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Comici free climbing in Val Rosandra.]] thumb|right|The Rifugio Emilio Comici at Sëlva. [[File:Rifugio Zsigmondy-Comici Hütte.JPG|thumb|right|The Rifugio Zsigmondy-Comici.]] Emilio Comici was the son of Antonio Comici and Regina Cartago. A longshoreman in his youth, he began mountain climbing after caving for ten years (1918-1927), following the Trieste tradition of mountaineering represented by Napoleone Cozzi and Julius Kugy. As a caver, Comici set a world depth record of {{Convert|500|m}} near Trieste.<ref name="Pareti"/><ref name="bigwalls"/><ref name="Rabanser">{{cite book|language=German|first=Ivo|last=Rabanser|title=Reinhold Messners Kletterfavoriten|publisher=Bruckmann Verlag GmbH|location=München|year=2011|isbn=978-3-7654-5440-0}}</ref> He began climbing at the suggestion of friends from the Trieste chapter of the Italian Alpine Club, gaining his first experience in the nearby Val Rosandra.<ref name="Smithsonian"/>
In 1932 Comici moved to Lake Misurina in the municipality of Auronzo di Cadore, where he opened a climbing school. Comici's students included Riccardo Cassin, later a prominent climber.<ref name="Smithsonian"/><ref name="Pareti"/><ref name="Auffermann">{{cite book|language=German|title=Entscheidung in der Wand|first=Uli|last=Auffermann|publisher=Schall Verlag GmbH|year=2010|isbn=978-3-900533-62-5|pages=113 ff}}</ref> From 1938 to 1940 he served as ''podestà'' (mayor) of Sëlva in Val Gardena, where he also directed the ski school.<ref name="Pareti"/><ref name="denkmal"/> He was a supporter of the Fascist regime of Benito Mussolini, which promoted him by sending him on lecture tours.<ref name="Smithsonian"/>
He died in an accidental fall caused by a frayed rope on the training cliffs of the Sëlva climbing area in Val Gardena.<ref name="Frison-Roche"/><ref name="Smithsonian"/><ref name="Pareti"/><ref name="denkmal"/><ref name="Bergsteiger">{{cite journal|language=German |url=http://www.bergsteiger.de/zeitschriftenartikel-427.html?nav=0&show=seite1 |archive-url=https://archive.today/20130210130937/http://www.bergsteiger.de/zeitschriftenartikel-427.html?nav=0&show=seite1 |url-status=dead |archive-date=2013-02-10 |title=Die Nordwand der großen Zinne - Emilio Comici |publisher=Bruckmann Verlag GmbH |date=February 2008 |accessdate=19 March 2013 |journal=Bergsteiger |page=88 }}</ref> For a long time the precise circumstances were not reported by the Fascist authorities, who did not want to cast a shadow on the famous figure of Comici.
In addition to his talents as a climber, Comici is remembered for his aesthetic concept of climbing, perceiving it as a means of self-expression through harmonious movement.<ref name="Pareti"/> It was Comici who originated the concept of climbing ''direttissima'' routes, following the path a drop of water would take down the mountain.<ref name="Frison-Roche"/><ref name="bigwalls"/> Comici's book ''Alpinismo Eroico'' employs rhetoric characteristic of the era in which it was written.
The Rifugio Zsigmondy-Comici, or Zsigmondyhütte, in the Sexten Dolomites is named for Comici and Emil Zsigmondy. The Rifugio Emilio Comici and the Campanile Comici, both in the Langkofel Group, are also named for Comici. A wooden monument memorializes Comici at the foot of the wall in Vallunga where he died.<ref name="denkmal"/>
== Ascents == [[File:Routes Cima Grande North.jpg|thumb|right|Routes on the north face of the Cima Grande (Große Zinne) of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo: 1=Dibona, 2=Via Camillotto Pellesier, 3=Das Phantom der Zinne, 4=Hasse/Brandler (Direttissima), 5=Sachsenweg (Superdirettissima), 6=Comici/Dimai]]
=== North face of Cima Grande === From 13 to 14 August 1933 Comici and the brothers Angelo and Giuseppe Dimai made the first ascent of the north face {{Convert|550|m}} of the Cima Grande di Lavaredo,<ref name="Frison-Roche"/><ref name="Smithsonian"/> thus opening the eponymous ''Via Comici-Dimai'' (Comici-Dimai Route) or Comici route.<ref name="Frison-Roche 2">''A History of Mountain Climbing'' (Frison-Roche and Jouty), pp. 148-149, 158.</ref><ref>{{cite web|language=Italian|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/rock/vie/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=298&id_tipologia=38|title=Via Comici - Dimai|publisher=Mountain Network|accessdate=14 March 2013}}</ref> In this climb of 400 meters, they used rope, 150 meters of cord, 90 hooks, climbing slings, 40 carabiners<ref name="Messner">{{cite book|language=German|title=Vertical - 150 Jahre Kletterkunst|first=Reinhold|last=Messner|authorlink=Reinhold Messner|publisher=BLV Buchverlag |location=München|year=2008|volume=2|isbn=978-3-8354-0380-2}}</ref> and 80 pitons.<ref name="Frison-Roche 3">''A History of Mountain Climbing'' (Frison-Roche and Jouty), p. 320.</ref> There had been several previous failed attempts on the face by other climbers. However, the technique used by Comici's party, and specifically their use of pitons, became the subject of debate among mountaineers.<ref name="Smithsonian"/><ref name="Pareti"/><ref name="Rabanser"/><ref name="Messner"/> In September 1937, Comici repeated his route as a solo climber in just 3.5 hours.<ref name="Smithsonian"/><ref name="Pareti"/><ref name="Messner"/><ref name="Frison-Roche 4">''A History of Mountain Climbing'' (Frison-Roche and Jouty), pp. 132, 302.</ref> The route was then rated at a difficulty of VI. Today, the rating is VI/A0 (UIAA) or in free climbing VII (UIAA).<ref name="Rabanser"/>
=== Other ascents === * ''Via Comici'' - Summit of Riofreddo - 8 August 1928 - First ascent with Giordano Bruno Fabjan, north face * ''Via Comici-Fabjan'' - Tre Sorelle - 26–27 August 1929 - First ascent with Giordano Bruno Fabjan, VI north face. Considered the first Italian sixth grade climb.<ref name="Smithsonian"/><ref name="Pareti"/><ref name="Bergsteiger"/><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.summitpost.org/sorapiss/154932|title=Sorapiss|publisher=summitpost.org|date=19 November 2007|accessdate=19 March 2013}}</ref> * ''Via Comici-Benedetti'' - Monte Civetta - 4–5 August 1931 - First ascent with Giulio Benedetti, {{Convert|1050|m}}, VI, A2 northwest face<ref name="Frison-Roche"/><ref name="Smithsonian"/><ref name="Civetta"/> * ''Via Comici-Cassin'' - Zuccone Campelli - 28 May 1933 - First ascent with Riccardo Cassin, Mario Dell'Oro "Boga", Mary Varale and Mario Spreafico "Umett", {{Convert|140|m}}, IV west face<ref name="Pareti"/><ref>{{cite web|language=Italian|url=http://www.gulliver.it/itinerario/11482/|title=Zuccone Campelli Fessura Comici/ Comici-Cassin|publisher=gulliver.it|date=4 May 2009|accessdate=19 March 2013}}</ref> * ''Yellow Edge'' - Cima Piccola di Lavaredo - 8–9 September 1933 - First ascent with Mary Varale and Renato Zanutti, {{Convert|350|m}}, VI+ southeast edge<ref name="Smithsonian"/><ref name="Pareti"/><ref>{{cite web|language=Italian|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/rock/vie/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=300&id_tipologia=38|title=Spigolo Giallo|publisher=Mountain Network|accessdate=19 March 2013}}</ref> * ''Via Comici'' - Punta of Frida - 2 August 1934 - Ascent with Giordano Bruno Fabjan, Vittorio Cottafavi and Gianfranco Pompei, {{Convert|170|m}}, V, VI east face<ref name="Pareti"/><ref>{{cite web|language=Italian|url=http://www.gulliver.it/itinerario/46635/|title=Frida (Punta di) 2792 m Via Comici|publisher=gulliver.it|date=2 September 2009|accessdate=19 March 2013}}</ref> * ''Via Comici'' - Torre Piccola of Falzarego - 10 August 1934 - First ascent with Mary Varale and Sandro Del Torso, {{Convert|230|m}}, V south edge<ref name="Pareti"/><ref>{{cite web|language=Italian|url=http://www.gulliver.it/itinerario/13941/|title=Torre Piccola di Falzarego Via Comici|publisher=gulliver.it|date=18 April 2010|accessdate=19 March 2013}}</ref> * ''Via Comici-Del Torso-Zanutti'' - Torre Comici - July 1936 - First ascent with Sandro Del Torso and Renato Zanutti, {{Convert|300|m}}, V, VI east face<ref name="Pareti"/><ref>{{cite web|language=Italian|url=http://www.paretiverticali.it/TORRIONE%20COMICI.htm|title=Torrione Comici|publisher=paretiverticali.it|accessdate=19 March 2013}}</ref> * ''Via Comici'' - [Dito di Dio] - 8–9 September 1936 - first ascent with Piero Mazzorana and Sandro Del Torso, {{Convert|600|m}}, VI north face<ref name="Pareti"/> * ''Via Comici-Dimai'' - Cima Grande di Lavaredo - 2 September 1937 - Solo ascent in 3.5 hours, north face<ref name="Smithsonian"/><ref name="Pareti"/><ref name="Frison-Roche 4"/> * ''Via Comici'' - "Salami" in the Sassolungo ("Campanile Comici") - 28–29 August 1940 - First ascent with Severino Casara, {{Convert|450|m}}, VI north face<ref name="Pareti"/><ref name="denkmal"/><ref name="topoguide">{{cite web|language=German|url=http://www.topoguide.de/Alpen_Band_I/Touren-Downloads/Dolomiten/Salami__Comici_/salami__comici_.html|title=Salami "Comici"|publisher=topoguide.de - der interaktive Bergverlag|work=topoguide.de|accessdate=19 March 2013|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110913204134/http://www.topoguide.de/Alpen_Band_I/Touren-Downloads/Dolomiten/Salami__Comici_/salami__comici_.html|archive-date=13 September 2011|url-status=dead}}</ref>
== References == {{Reflist}}
== Bibliography == *{{cite book|first=Emilio|last=Comici|title=Alpinismo Eroico|others=Ed. Hoepli 1942 and 1950, Ed. Vivalda 1995}} *{{cite book|first=Severino|last=Casara|title=L' Arte di arrampicare di Emilio Comici|publisher=Ed. Hoepli|year=1957}} *{{cite book|first=Severino|last=Casara|title=Arrampicate libere|others=Ed. Corticelli 1944, Ed. Hoepli 1950}} *{{cite book|first=Spiro Dalla Porta|last=Xydias|title=Se tu vens... cento anni di alpinismo triestino|publisher=Ed. Lint Trieste|year=1985}} *{{cite book|first=Dario|last=Gasparro|title=La Val Rosandra e l'ambiente circostante|publisher=ed. Lint Trieste|year=2008}} *Smart, David (2020). Emilio Comici: Angel of the Dolomites: Passion, Pitons, Politics and the First Big Walls.
== External links == {{Commons category}} {{Portal|Biography}} *{{cite web|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObZ9U1mliv0|title=Emilio Comici|date=3 September 2007|publisher=YouTube|accessdate=14 March 2013}}
{{Authority control}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Comici, Emilio}} <!--- Categories ---> Category:1901 births Category:1940 deaths Category:Alpine guides Category:Italian cavers Category:Italian mountain climbers Category:Mayors of places in Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol Category:Mountaineering deaths in Italy Category:Sportspeople from Trieste