{{short description|Italian rock climber}} {{Use dmy dates|date=June 2019}} {{Infobox climber | image = Christian Core on Gioia.jpg | image_size = | caption = Christian Core on ''Gioia'' (8C+), Varazze | name = Christian Core | nationality = Italian | birth_date = {{Birth date and age|df=yes|1974|10|05}} | birth_place = Savona, Italy | death_date = <!-- if applicable use {{death date and age|df=yes|yyyy|mm|dd|yyyy|mm|dd}} --> | death_place = | residence = | education = | occupation = Professional rock climber | height = 177 cm | weight = 61 kg | typeofclimber = {{flatlist| * Competition climbing * Bouldering * Sport climbing }} | highestredpoint = {{Climbing grade|8c}} | highestonsight = {{Climbing grade|8a}} | highestflash = | highestboulder = {{Boulder grade|8C+}} | knownfor = first-ever person to climb an {{Boulder grade|8C+}} boulder | firstascents = {{ubl|''{{interlanguage link|Gioia (climb)|lt=Gioia|fr|Gioia (bloc)}}'' (V16, 2008) }} | namedroutes = | majorascents = | website = | updated = 31 October 2017 | medaltemplates = {{Medal|Competition | World Cup }} {{Medal|Winner|1999|Bouldering}} {{Medal|Winner|2002|Bouldering}} {{Medal|Competition | World Championships }} {{Medal|Bronze | 2001|Bouldering }} {{Medal|Gold | 2003|Bouldering }} {{Medal|Competition | European Championships }} {{Medal|Gold | 2002|Bouldering }} | show-medals = yes }} '''Christian Core''' (born 5 October 1974) is an Italian professional rock climber who specialises in bouldering and competition bouldering. He is known for being the first-ever person in the world to climb an {{Boulder grade|8C+}} boulder, ''{{interlanguage link|Gioia (climb)|lt=Gioia|fr|Gioia (bloc)}}'', in 2008. As a competition climber, Core won the Bouldering World Cup twice in 1999 and 2002, and also won the Bouldering World Championship in 2003.
== Climbing career==
===Competition climbing===
In 1999 Core stopped competing in the Lead Climbing World Cup and started participating in the Bouldering World Cup, organized by UIAA in that year for the first time in history.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews4.lasso?l=1&keyid=32782|title=A Cristian Core e Stèphanie Bodet la Worldcup di Bouldering 1999|editor=planetmountain.com|date=1 September 1999|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref> He immediately won the Cup, and again in 2002.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews4.lasso?l=1&keyid=34068|title=A Core e Perlova la World Cup Bouldering|editor=planetmountain.com|date=23 October 2002|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref> In 2003, he earned the title of World Champion in bouldering.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews4.lasso?l=1&keyid=34323|title=Core e Levet campioni del mondo Boulder|editor=planetmountain.com|date=11 July 2003|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref>
===Bouldering===
He has ascended several very hard boulders in Italy near Bobbio Pellice, Varazze, and Triora. In 2008, he climbed ''{{interlanguage link|Gioia (climb)|lt=Gioia|fr|Gioia (bloc)}}'', the first-ever boulder graded {{Boulder grade|8C+}} in history, and was for 8 years, the most difficult boulder in the world. In 2011, Adam Ondra repeated the ascent and confirmed the grade,<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain.com | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-the-pure-gioia-interview.html | date=7 December 2011 | accessdate=29 January 2022 | title=Adam Ondra, the pure Gioia interview}}</ref> however, in 2015, Core announced that a hold broke on ''Gioia'', which he could only partially repair, and which slightly lowered the grade.<ref name=8aGioia>{{cite web | website=8a.nu | url=https://www.8a.nu/news/core-gives-us-the-gioia-8c+-history | date=19 December 2020 | accessdate=29 January 2022 | title=Core gives us the Gioia 8C+ history}}</ref>
==Personal life== In 2009, he married the climber Stella Marchisio.
== Rankings == {{See also|List of best IFSC results}}
'''Climbing World Cup'''<ref name="IFSC Worldcups" /> {| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center" ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 1995 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 1996 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 1997 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 1998 |- | align="left" | Lead | 10 | 11 | 9 | 17 |}
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center" ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 1999 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2000 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2001 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2002 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2003 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2004 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2005 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2006 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2007 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2008 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2009 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2010 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2011 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2012 |- | align="left" | Bouldering | style="background: gold" | 1 | 8 | 7 | style="background: gold" | 1 | 8 | 16 | 4 | 4 | 13 | 16 | 54 | 26 | 54 | 32 |}
'''Climbing World Championships'''<ref name="IFSC profile" /> {| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center" ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 1997 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 1999 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2001 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2003 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2005 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2007 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2009 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2011 |- | align="left" | Lead | 7 | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |- | align="left" | Bouldering | - | - | style="background: #cc9966" | 3 | style="background: gold" | 1 | 18 | 10 | 10 | 33 |}
'''Climbing European Championships'''<ref name="IFSC profile" /> {| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center" ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 1998 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2000 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2002 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2004 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2007 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2008 ! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2010 |- | align="left" | Lead | 10 | - | - | - | - | - | - |- | align="left" | Bouldering | - | - | style="background: gold" | 1 | - | 16 | 10 | 7 |}
== Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup == '''Bouldering'''<ref name="IFSC profile" /> {| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;" |- ! width="55" | Season ! width="55" style="background:gold;" | Gold ! width="55" style="background:silver;" | Silver ! width="55" style="background:#CC9966;" | Bronze ! width="55" | Total |- | 1999 || 2 || 1 || || 3 |- | 2000 || || 1 || 1 || 2 |- | 2001 || || 1 || || 1 |- | 2002 || 1 || 1 || || 2 |- | 2003 || || || 1 || 1 |- | 2004 || || 1 || || 1 |- | 2005 || || 1 || || 1 |- | 2006 || || || 1 || 1 |- | 2010 || || || 1 || 1 |- | '''Total''' || '''3''' || '''6''' || '''4''' || '''13''' |}
== Rock climbing == === Redpointed routes === Core redpointed {{Climbing grade|8c}} and onsighted {{Climbing grade|8a}} routes.
=== Boulder problems === Core redpointed {{Boulder grade|8c+}} and flashed {{Boulder grade|8a}} boulder problems.
8C+/V16: :* ''{{interlanguage link|Gioia (climb)|lt=Gioia|fr|Gioia (bloc)}}'' – Varazze (ITA) – 2008 – First ascent.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=907|title=La Gioia di Christian Core|editor=infoboulder.com|date=25 February 2008|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref> Adam Ondra repeated it on 6 December 2011 and confirmed the 8C+ grade.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=38873|title=Adam Ondra ripete Gioia 8C+ a Varazze|editor=planetmountain.com|date=6 December 2011|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref> Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=41601|title=Nalle Hukkataival ripete Gioia a Varazze|editor=planetmountain.com|date=22 February 2014|access-date=23 September 2014}}</ref>
8C/V15: :* ''Kimera'' – Rifugio Barbara (Bobbio Pellice, ITA) – 2006 – First ascent<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=706|title=Una Kimera per Christian Core|editor=infoboulder.com|date=6 September 2006|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref>
8B+/V14: :* ''Toky'' – Val Ellero (ITA) – 2009 – First ascent<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=1185|title=Christian Core apre Toky|editor=infoboulder.com|date=31 October 2009|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref> :* ''New Base Line'' – Magic Wood (CHE) – 2006<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=739|title=New Base Line per Christian Core|editor=infoboulder.com|date=14 December 2006|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref> :* ''Beautiful mind'' – Albarracin (ESP) – 2006 – First ascent<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=650|title=Christian Core, 8b+ in Spagna|editor=infoboulder.com|date=2 March 2006|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref> :* ''Ajna'' – Varazze (ITA) – 2004 – First ascent<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=441|title=Christian Core risolve Ajna|editor=infoboulder.com|date=1 June 2004|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref> :* ''Toguro'' – Varazze (ITA) – 2003 – First ascent<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=208|title='Toguro' 8b+ per Core a Varazze|editor=infoboulder.com|date=10 May 2003|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref> :* ''Dreamtime'' – Cresciano (CHE) – 2003 – Fifth ascent (first ascent by Fred Nicole)<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=182|title=Christian Core sale 'Dreamtime'|editor=infoboulder.com|date=14 February 2003|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref> :* ''Taklimakam plus'' – Varazze (ITA) – 2002 – First ascent<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=156|title=Taklimakam si allunga|editor=infoboulder.com|date=7 November 2002|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref> :* ''Shadowfax'' – Chironico (CHE) – 2002 – Third ascent (first ascent by Dave Graham)<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=128|title=Christian Core, 8b+ su Shadowfax|editor=infoboulder.com|date=19 September 2002|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref>
== Film == * ''i Core, my climbing family'' – 2012 – Regia di Angelo Poli – 45'<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/news/eventi_d.lasso?cl=2&keyid=2171|title=i Core my climbing family su Deejay TV|editor=planetmountain.com|date=16 October 2012|access-date=29 July 2013}}</ref><ref>{{IMDb title|tt2998648|I Core: My Climbing Family}}</ref>
== See also == *List of grade milestones in rock climbing *History of rock climbing *Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals
==References== {{Reflist|refs= <ref name="IFSC Worldcups">{{cite web|url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/ranking|title=World Cup Rankings|editor=IFSC|date=August 20, 2019|access-date=August 20, 2019}}</ref> <ref name="IFSC profile">{{cite web|url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=athlete&id=122|title=Core's profile and rankings|editor=IFSC|date=August 20, 2019|access-date=August 20, 2019}}</ref> }}
== Bibliografia == * {{cite book|author=Andrea Gennari Daneri, Christian Core|title=Train!|year=2000|editor=Pareti e Montagne edizioni}}
== External links == * {{cite web |url=http://www.planetmountain.com/Special/protagonisti/core/ |last=Stefanello |first=Vinicio |title=Christian Core e Dreamtime |date=14 March 2003 |website=PlanetMountain |language=it |archive-date=3 August 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170803212314/http://www.planetmountain.com/it/notizie/interviste/christian-core-e-dreamtime.html |access-date=2 December 2023}}
{{Climbing World Championships Men's bouldering}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Core, Christian}} Category:1974 births Category:Living people Category:Boulder climbers Category:Climbers of Fiamme Oro Category:IFSC Climbing World Championships medalists Category:IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists Category:Italian competition climbers Category:Italian rock climbers