# Wye Valley > Mediated Wiki article. Canonical URL: https://mediated.wiki/source/Wye_Valley > Markdown URL: https://mediated.wiki/source/Wye_Valley.md > Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wye_Valley > Source revision: 1340046400 > License: Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/) {{Short description|River valley in England and Wales}} {{about|the river valley along the Anglo-Welsh border|river valley in Derbyshire|Wye Valley, Derbyshire}} {{EngvarB|date=October 2013}} {{Use dmy dates|date=January 2025}} [[File:River Wye viewed from Yat Rock.jpg|thumb|The [River Wye](/source/River_Wye) viewed from [Yat Rock](/source/Yat_Rock)]] thumb|Wye Valley AONB locator map The '''Wye Valley''' ({{langx|cy|Dyffryn Gwy}}) is a [valley](/source/valley) in [Wales](/source/Wales) and England. The [River Wye](/source/River_Wye) ({{langx|cy|Afon Gwy}}) is the [fourth-longest river](/source/Rivers_of_Great_Britain) in the United Kingdom. The upper part of the valley is in the [Cambrian Mountains](/source/Cambrian_Mountains) and is enclosed by hills as it descends through [Rhayader](/source/Rhayader), [Builth Wells](/source/Builth_Wells) and [Hay-on-Wye](/source/Hay-on-Wye) before reaching the [England-Wales border](/source/England-Wales_border) and becoming a broader vale through [Hereford](/source/Hereford). The lower part of the valley meanders past [Ross-on-Wye](/source/Ross-on-Wye) and [Monmouth](/source/Monmouth), where it becomes the England-Wales border, before reaching the [Severn Estuary](/source/Severn_Estuary) at [Chepstow](/source/Chepstow). Much of this section features [limestone](/source/limestone) [gorge](/source/gorge) scenery and dense native woodlands, which made the Wye Valley historically important as one of the birthplaces of the modern tourism industry. The lower part of the valley is designated as the '''Wye Valley National Landscape''', an [Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty](/source/Area_of_Outstanding_Natural_Beauty), protected as an internationally important landscape. This designation covers {{convert|326|km2|mi2}} surrounding a {{convert|72|km|mi|adj=on}} stretch of the river, from just south of Hereford to Chepstow in the counties of [Gloucestershire](/source/Gloucestershire), Herefordshire and [Monmouthshire](/source/Monmouthshire).{{cite web | url = http://wyevalleyaonb.org.uk/images/uploads/general/section1.pdf | title = Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty – Management Plan 2004-2009 | publisher = Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty | access-date = 2016-03-27}} In addition to its landscape value, the area is recognised for its wildlife and archaeological and industrial remains. == Geology == The varied landscapes of the Wye Valley can be explained by underlying rocks and structures, and how ice and then the river and tributary streams have acted upon them through time. Close to Hereford, the geology of the area around the village of [Woolhope](/source/Woolhope) is largely made up of [Silurian](/source/Silurian) [limestone](/source/limestone)s, [shale](/source/shale)s and [sandstone](/source/sandstone)s. To the south of this, the Herefordshire lowlands are largely underlain by red [mudstone](/source/mudstone)s and [sandstone](/source/sandstone)s, producing a redder soil. These rocks are softer than the limestones elsewhere, so the river created more [meander](/source/meander)s, a wider [floodplain](/source/floodplain), and a gentler and more rolling landscape. Around [Symonds Yat](/source/Symonds_Yat), limestones and red sandstones meet. This leads to a landscape of hills and plains, as well as substantial meanders which have formed impressive river cliffs. The Lower Wye landscape was formed by the river acting on a series of layers of rock that dip towards the [Forest of Dean](/source/Forest_of_Dean). Here the river has incised into the margins of the [Old Red Sandstone](/source/Old_Red_Sandstone) plateau to form a gorge with substantial river cliffs. The steepest parts of the Wye gorge are cut through the [Carboniferous Limestone](/source/Carboniferous_Limestone). Here the combined action of the river, natural joints in the rocks and quarrying have exposed many vertical faces, particularly between [Tintern](/source/Tintern) and Chepstow. Geological interest extends underground, and there are many [rock shelters](/source/rock_shelters) and solution [caves](/source/caves) in the area. These include King Arthur's Cave and many others in the area of Symonds Yat and [Slaughter Stream Cave](/source/Slaughter_Stream_Cave) near Berry Hill. At [St Arvans](/source/St_Arvans), near Chepstow, the underground watercourses have carved out long cave systems, which exit at [Otter Hole](/source/Otter_Hole) at the base of Piercefield cliffs{{spaced ndash}}the only cave system in England or Wales which can only be reached through a tidal sump, making it a [mecca](/source/mecca) for experienced cavers. == Ecology == [Lancaut](/source/Lancaut){{Cite web|url=https://www.gloucestershirewildlifetrust.co.uk/nature-reserves/lancaut|title=Lancaut | Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust|website=gloucestershirewildlifetrust.co.uk}} and Ban-y-Gor{{Cite web|url=http://www.gloucestershirewildlifetrust.co.uk/reserves/Ban-y-Gor-Woods-SSSI|title=Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust nature reserves information for Ban-y-Gor SSSI}} are [Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust](/source/Gloucestershire_Wildlife_Trust) nature reserves. They both have [SSSI](/source/SSSI) status being part of the nationally important [Lower Wye Gorge SSSI](/source/Lower_Wye_Gorge_SSSI)[http://www.sssi.naturalengland.org.uk/Special/sssi/unitlist.cfm?sssi_id=1003607 Natural England unit information for Lower Wye Gorge] and within the Wye Valley [National Landscape](/source/AONB). The Wye Valley is important for its rich wildlife habitats including ancient gorge woodland, saltmarsh and limestone cliffs.{{Cite web |title=Plants – The Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Beauty |url=https://www.wyevalley-nl.org.uk/the-river-wye/plants/ |access-date=2024-03-28 |website=Wye Valley AONB |language=en}}Kelham, A, Sanderson, J, Doe, J, Edgeley-Smith, M, et al, 1979, 1990, 2002 editions, 'Nature Reserves of the Gloucestershire Trust for Nature Conservation/Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust'{{Cite web |title=Wye Habitats – Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty |url=https://www.wyevalley-nl.org.uk/exploring-wye-valley-aonb/wildlife/wye-habitats/ |access-date=2024-03-28 |website=Wye Valley AONB |language=en}} The area has three sites of international importance, designated as [Special Areas of Conservation](/source/Special_Areas_of_Conservation) (SACs) under the [European Union](/source/European_Union)'s [Habitats Directive](/source/Habitats_Directive). These are the [River Wye](/source/River_Wye) (''Afon Gwy''), the Wye Valley and Forest of Dean Bat Sites (''Safleoedd Ystlumod Dyffryn Gwy a Fforest y Ddena'') and the Wye Valley Woodlands (''Coetiroedd Dyffryn Gwy'').{{cite web | title=Joint Nature Conservation Committee Listing of Special Areas of Conservation | work=DEFRA | url=http://jncc.defra.gov.uk/ProtectedSites/SACselection/SAC_list.asp | access-date=23 September 2012}} It supports a population of [lesser horseshoe bat](/source/lesser_horseshoe_bat)s, a growing population of [peregrine falcons](/source/peregrine_falcons), [goshawk](/source/Northern_Goshawk)s, [raven](/source/raven)s, rare [whitebeam](/source/whitebeam), [nightjar](/source/nightjar) and lesser known fish like the [shad](/source/shad) and twaite. The main Welsh populations of the small but colourful [moth](/source/moth) ''[Oecophora bractella](/source/Oecophora_bractella)'' are found here. In September 2006 it was reported that one colony of lesser horseshoe bats in the area had reached record numbers, with some 890 bats in a small stone barn (599 adults and 291 pups).{{Cite web|url=https://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/england/gloucestershire/5359348.stm|title=Bat colony reaches record numbers|date=19 September 2006|publisher=BBC News}} {{wide image|River Wye Lancat and Ban y Gore Nature Reserve.jpg|700px|align-cap=center|River Wye at Lancaut looking towards Wintour's Leap}} == Archaeology == The valley has been inhabited for at least 12,000 years. Caves near [Symonds Yat](/source/Symonds_Yat) and [Chepstow](/source/Chepstow) provide evidence of settlement dating from [Palaeolithic](/source/Palaeolithic) times, and finds from later Stone Ages such as the [Neolithic](/source/Neolithic) have also been found. These have yielded evidence of how [prehistoric](/source/prehistoric) human populations lived as nomadic hunters and traders. [Standing stones](/source/Standing_stones) at Huntsham, [Staunton](/source/Staunton%2C_near_Coleford%2C_Gloucestershire), and [Trellech](/source/Trellech) all have origins dating back to the [Bronze Age](/source/Bronze_Age). Later, [Iron Age](/source/Iron_Age) forts along the lower Wye Valley, and in the Woolhope area, took advantage of the natural hilltops and promontories to form well-defended settlements. It is likely that many of these marked the edges of disputed [tribal pre-Roman](/source/British_Iron_Age) territories. [Watling Street](/source/Watling_Street) ran through the [Roman](/source/Roman_Britain) settlements of [Ariconium](/source/Ariconium) (just north of modern [Ross-on-Wye](/source/Ross-on-Wye)) and [Blestium](/source/Blestium) (Monmouth), and a number of other small Roman settlements are known. The first evidence of the exploitation of iron and coal in the valley is found in the Roman period, with iron working known from sites at [Monmouth](/source/Monmouth), Trellech and elsewhere, as well as in the adjoining [Forest of Dean](/source/Forest_of_Dean). The medieval boroughs of [Goodrich](/source/Goodrich%2C_Herefordshire) and Chepstow, at each end of the Wye Gorge, may have originally been established at this time. Closely following the River Wye, [Offa's Dyke](/source/Offa's_Dyke) was built in the 8th century under [King Offa](/source/King_Offa) to mark out the boundary between England and Wales and is, today, the longest archaeological monument in Britain. [Offa's Dyke Path](/source/Offa's_Dyke_Path) [long distance footpath](/source/long_distance_footpath) today traces the route through the Wye valley on the English bank, while the [Wye Valley Walk](/source/Wye_Valley_Walk) follows the Welsh bank. == Medieval period == When the [Normans](/source/Normans) conquered the region in the 11th century they immediately built major [castle](/source/castle)s at [Chepstow](/source/Chepstow_Castle) and [Monmouth](/source/Monmouth) to defend the territory. Smaller castles were built at [St Briavels](/source/St_Briavels), [Ruardean](/source/Ruardean), [Goodrich](/source/Goodrich_Castle) and [Wilton Castle](/source/Wilton_Castle). [Tintern Abbey](/source/Tintern_Abbey) was founded in 1131 by [Cistercian](/source/Cistercian) monks, and largely rebuilt in the 13th century. It is the best-preserved [medieval](/source/medieval) [abbey](/source/abbey) in Wales and an outstanding example of [Gothic architecture](/source/Gothic_architecture). Many of the smaller villages in the area probably date from the Middle Ages, and much of this expansion was probably associated with the early iron industry. The medieval iron industry consumed large quantities of [charcoal](/source/charcoal) and much of the woodland was [coppice](/source/coppice)d for this purpose. Trellech was one of the largest communities in Wales during this period. == Development of industry == [[File:Tintern Limekiln.jpg|thumb|Ruins of an 18th-century limekiln at [Tintern](/source/Tintern)]] Iron has been made in the Wye Valley since [Roman](/source/Ancient_Rome) times, using the ready supply of timber, good quality ore and abundant [charcoal](/source/charcoal) from the [Forest of Dean](/source/Forest_of_Dean). The river provided transport for the raw materials and finished product, and with the introduction of the [blast furnace](/source/blast_furnace) in the 16th century, its tributaries began to be used for water power. The first [brass](/source/brass) made in Britain was founded in the [Angidy valley](/source/Angidy_River) – which joins the Wye at [Tintern](/source/Tintern) – in 1566. [Wire](/source/Wire)-making followed, with water mills situated on all the tributaries of the lower Wye.{{cite book|last=Donald|first=M.B.|title=Elizabethan Monopolies|publisher=Oliver and Boyd|location=Edinburgh and London|year=1961|pages=3, 4|url=https://archive.org/details/elizabethanmonop0000mbdo/page/n7/mode/2up}} The area resounded to the noise and smoke of heavy industry for the next 400 years and gave rise to many pioneering industries. For instance, [Whitebrook](/source/Whitebrook) became famous for paper milling, when [wallpaper](/source/wallpaper) became a fashionable way to decorate houses. At [Redbrook](/source/Redbrook), copper works were established by 1691, and a century later the village became one of the world's major [tinplate](/source/tinplate) manufacturing centres. This industry survived until the 1960s and was renowned for producing the thinnest, highest quality plate in the world. The [Lydbrook](/source/Lydbrook) valley was also a thriving centre for metal industries, such as the manufacture of telegraph cables. The valley woodlands were carefully managed to produce mature trees for [shipbuilding](/source/shipbuilding), or by coppicing for [charcoal](/source/charcoal), and to provide bark for [tanning](/source/Tanning_(leather)). The valley industries were also massive consumers of timber. A ship of 150 tons, for example, required 3,000 wagonloads of timber to complete – and in 1824, 13 ships were launched at [Brockweir](/source/Brockweir) alone. The river was the economic backbone of the region, providing an important means of transport, trade and communication. In late medieval times, [salmon](/source/salmon) weirs hindered free passage on the river, but the Wye Navigation Act in 1662 enabled the river's potential to be developed. By 1727 shallow draught boats could get upstream beyond Hereford, and a significant shipbuilding industry developed at Monmouth, [Llandogo](/source/Llandogo), Brockweir and Chepstow. However, by 1835 it was stated that the Wye ''"can scarcely be considered a commercial highway"'' above Monmouth, and by the 1880s Brockweir bridge was the effective upper limit of navigation. As the 19th century progressed, the valley's industries gradually declined, and management of the woodlands lessened when there was no longer a ready market for their products. == Origins of British tourism == {{main|Wye Tour}} [[Image:Turner Tintern1.jpg|250px|right|thumb|''The Chancel and Crossing of [Tintern Abbey](/source/Tintern_Abbey), Looking towards the East Window'' by [J. M. W. Turner](/source/J._M._W._Turner), 1794]] The Wye Valley witnessed the birth of British tourism in the 18th century. The earliest known appreciation of the area's spectacular beauty can be dated to the beginning of the century, when [John Kyrle](/source/John_Kyrle) developed the 'Prospect' at [Ross-on-Wye](/source/Ross-on-Wye), and it was later mentioned in verse by [Alexander Pope](/source/Alexander_Pope). In 1745, [John Egerton](/source/John_Egerton_(bishop)), later [Bishop of Durham](/source/Bishop_of_Durham), started taking friends on boat trips down the valley from the rectory at Ross. The area became more widely known following the publication of works by the poet [Thomas Gray](/source/Thomas_Gray), and, in particular, ''Observations on the River Wye'' by the Reverend [William Gilpin](/source/William_Gilpin_(clergyman)), published in 1782. The first illustrated tour guide to be published in Britain, it helped travellers locate and enjoy the most "[Picturesque](/source/Picturesque)" aspects of the countryside. Regular excursions began to be established from Ross, the boat journey to [Chepstow](/source/Chepstow) taking two days. Some of the most famous poets, writers and artists of the day made the pilgrimage to the great sights of Goodrich, [Tintern](/source/Tintern) and [Chepstow](/source/Chepstow){{spaced ndash}}among them [Coleridge](/source/Samuel_Taylor_Coleridge), [Thackeray](/source/William_Makepeace_Thackeray) and [Turner](/source/J._M._W._Turner). [Wordsworth](/source/William_Wordsworth) was also captivated by the area, writing ''[Lines written a few miles above Tintern Abbey](/source/Lines_written_a_few_miles_above_Tintern_Abbey)'' in 1798. Poetic influence continued to be felt in the next century, as in 1811, popular 'peasant poet', [Robert Bloomfield](/source/Robert_Bloomfield) wrote 'The Banks of Wye; a Poem in Four Books' providing account of an 1807 trip made by him and a party of friends down the [River Wye](/source/River_Wye) and surrounding areas.'The Banks of Wye; A Poem in Four Books' – Robert Bloomfield, published at London, 1811 for the Author, Vernor, Hood and Sharpe etc The first of Britain's great landscapes to be 'discovered', the Wye Valley's particular attraction was its river scenery, and the many guidebooks, engravings and paintings ensured a continuing steady stream of visitors. Viewpoints were specially constructed, including [the Kymin](/source/the_Kymin) above [Monmouth](/source/Monmouth), with its round house giving panoramic views across the town. Another highlight for travellers was the cliff ascent and walks at [Piercefield](/source/Piercefield_House). However, most of the truly 'Picturesque' scenes were sketched from river level, with the shimmering water as the foreground for the forests and cliffs behind, and the castle and abbey ruins. == Transport == [[File:Monmouth from Livox Wood - geograph.org.uk - 203771.jpg|thumb|Missing rail links in [Monmouth](/source/Monmouth), foreground [Wye Valley Railway](/source/Wye_Valley_Railway) and background [Ross and Monmouth Railway](/source/Ross_and_Monmouth_Railway) linked to missing [Hereford, Ross and Gloucester Railway](/source/Hereford%2C_Ross_and_Gloucester_Railway) in [Ross-on-Wye](/source/Ross-on-Wye).]] In 1813 the Monmouth Tramroad linked [Coalway](/source/Coalway) (near [Coleford](/source/Coleford%2C_Gloucestershire)), [Redbrook](/source/Redbrook) and [Monmouth](/source/Monmouth). This was the world's first railed-way to make specific powers in its Act of Parliament to allow for the charging of fares to passengers. The standard gauge [Wye Valley Railway](/source/Wye_Valley_Railway) line between Chepstow, Monmouth and Ross opened much later, in 1876. This made the valley more accessible and popular to tourists. In the early 20th century, crowds of up to 1300 would travel on a special train journey to see Tintern Abbey on the night of the harvest moon. The line closed to passengers in 1959, although sections remain as bridleways and footbridges.{{Cite web|url=http://urban75.org/photos/wales/wye_history.html|title=History of the railways around Monmouth and the Wye Valley branch line, Monmouthshire, Wales|website=urban75.org}} There are now main line railway stations at [Hereford](/source/Hereford_railway_station) and [Chepstow](/source/Chepstow_railway_station). The road network in the lower Wye valley remained essentially undeveloped during the rise of the Valley's industrialisation, until a series of [Turnpike trust](/source/Turnpike_trust)s were authorised during the 18th century. It was not until 1828 that the current Wye Valley road, the [A466](/source/A466_road), was first constructed. The area became more accessible by road to much of the country with the building of the [M50](/source/M50_motorway_(Great_Britain)) between the [M5](/source/M5_motorway) and Ross-on-Wye, and the opening of the [Severn Bridge](/source/Severn_Bridge) (now part of the [M48](/source/M48_motorway)) in 1966. == National Landscape management == alt=A film about natural resource management of the Wye Valley Woodlands Special Area of Conservation and Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.|thumb|A film about natural resource management of the Wye Valley Woodlands Special Area of Conservation and Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) was designated in 1971. The designation indicates the importance of recognising and preserving the area's distinctive qualities, for the benefit of present and future generations. Administratively the area is very complex, being the only protected landscape to straddle the border between England and Wales. The counties of Herefordshire, Monmouthshire and Gloucestershire are each in a different government region. Co-ordination of conservation across these political boundaries is undertaken by an AONB unit and Joint Advisory Committee. A Management Plan for the AONB enlists a range of partners in conserving and enhancing its beauty for the benefit of present and future generations. The area is predominantly rural, and many people make a living from tourism, agriculture or forestry. Ross-on-Wye is the only town within the National Landscape itself, but Hereford, Monmouth, [Coleford](/source/Coleford%2C_Gloucestershire) and Chepstow lie just outside its boundaries. In 2023, all AONBs in the UK were rebranded as National Landscapes, though still keep their designation as Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty.{{Cite web |title=National Landscapes – Welcome to National Landscapes |url=https://national-landscapes.org.uk/news/welcome-to-national-landscapes |access-date=2024-03-27 |website=National Landscapes |language=en-GB}} The navigation of the tidal part of the Wye (below [Bigsweir](/source/Bigsweir_Bridge)) comes under the control of the [Gloucester Harbour Trustees](/source/Gloucester_Harbour_Trustees) as Competent Harbour Authority. == See also == * [Biblins Bridge](/source/Biblins_Bridge) * [Kingstone Brewery](/source/Beer_in_Wales), Meadow Farm, Tintern * [Wye Valley Brewery](/source/Wye_Valley_Brewery) * [Wye Valley Walk](/source/Wye_Valley_Walk) == References == {{reflist}} == External links == {{Commons category-inline|Bigsweir Woods}} * [http://www.wyevalleyaonb.org.uk Official site for the Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB)] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120419163044/http://www.wyevalleyaonb.org.uk/ |date=19 April 2012 }} * [http://www.wyevalleyaonb.org.uk/wyetour/index.php The Picturesque Wye Tour] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120416160116/http://www.wyevalleyaonb.org.uk/wyetour/index.php |date=16 April 2012 }} * [http://www.gloucestershirewildlifetrust.co.uk Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust] * [http://www.naturalengland.org.uk Natural England] * [http://www.bats.org.uk/ Bat Conservation Trust] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220829142012/http://www.bats.org.uk/ |date=29 August 2022 }} * [http://www.visitwyevalley.com Tourist information on the Wye Valley] * [http://www.selectbrochure.com/pub/56 Wye Valley & Vale of Usk Visitor Guide 2010] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110716034810/http://www.selectbrochure.com/pub/56 |date=16 July 2011 }} * [http://urban75.org/photos/wales/wye.html Wye Valley Railway – history and photos] * [https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/artsandculture/3066900/The-Wye-Valley-Riverside-of-the-Romantics.html The Wye Valley: Riverside of the Romantics (by Nigel Richardson), article from the travel section of the Daily Telegraph, pub. 23 Sep 2008] {{AONBs in England}} {{AONBs in Wales}} {{Protected areas of Wales}} {{Gloucestershire}} {{Herefordshire}} {{Monmouthshire}} {{authority control}} Category:Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty in England Category:Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty in Wales Category:Valleys of Gloucestershire Category:Valleys of Herefordshire Category:Valleys of Monmouthshire Category:Forest of Dean Category:Protected areas established in 1971 Category:Protected areas of Gloucestershire Category:Protected areas of Herefordshire Category:River Wye Category:1971 establishments in England Category:1971 establishments in Wales --- Adapted from the Wikipedia article [Wye Valley](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wye_Valley) by Wikipedia contributors ([contributor history](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wye_Valley?action=history)). Available under [Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/). Changes may have been made.