# Warp and weft

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Two constituent threads of woven cloth

This article is about weaving. For other uses, see [warp and weft (disambiguation)](/source/Warp_and_weft_(disambiguation)).

"Weft" redirects here. For other uses, see [Weft (disambiguation)](/source/Weft_(disambiguation)).

Warp and weft in [plain weaving](/source/Plain_weave). See [weaving](/source/Weaving) for other weave pattens, such as [twill](/source/Twill).

In the manufacture of [cloth](/source/Cloth), **warp** and **weft** are the two basic components in [weaving](/source/Weaving) to transform [thread](/source/Thread_(yarn)) and [yarn](/source/Yarn) into [textile](/source/Textile) fabrics. The vertical *warp* yarns are held stationary in tension on a [loom](/source/Loom) (frame) while the horizontal *weft* (also called the *woof*) is drawn through (inserted over and under) the warp thread.[1] In the terminology of weaving, each warp thread is called a *warp end*; a *pick* is a single weft thread that crosses the warp thread (synonymous terms are *fill yarn* and *filling yarn*).[2][3]

In the 18th century, the [Industrial Revolution](/source/Industrial_Revolution) facilitated the industrialisation of the production of textile fabrics with the *picking stick*[4] and the *[flying shuttle](/source/Flying_shuttle)*, the latter of which was invented by [John Kay](/source/John_Kay_(flying_shuttle)), in 1733.[*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*] The mechanised [power loom](/source/Power_loom) was patented by [Edmund Cartwright](/source/Edmund_Cartwright) in 1785, which allowed sixty picks per minute.[4]

## Etymology

The word *weft* derives from the [Old English](/source/Old_English_language) word *wefan*, to weave. *Warp* means "that across which the woof is thrown". (Old [English](/source/English_language) *wearp*, from *weorpan*, to throw, cf. [German](/source/German_language) *werfen*, [Dutch](/source/Dutch_language) *werpen*).[5]

## Warp

This section needs more citations. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources in this section. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Warp and weft" – news · newspapers · books · scholar · JSTOR (August 2021) (Learn how and when to remove this message)

Warped loom. Warp is wrapped onto the warp beam; as the cloth is made, the fell (woven part) is wrapped onto the breast beam next to the weaver.

Wrapping of the warp threads around the warp beam of a loom in preparation for weaving

Warp threads in [tablet weaving](/source/Tablet_weaving)

The warp is the set of [yarns](/source/Yarn) or other things stretched in place on a [loom](/source/Loom) before the weft is introduced during the weaving process, and the *longitudinal* set in a finished fabric with two or more sets of elements.[6]

The term is also used for a set of yarns established before the interworking of weft yarns by some other method, such as finger manipulation, yielding wrapped or twined structures.[*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*] Very simple looms use a **spiral warp**, in which the warp is made up of a single, very long yarn wound in a [spiral](/source/Spiral) pattern around a pair of sticks or beams.[7]

The warp must be strong to be held under high tension during the weaving process, unlike the weft which carries almost no tension.[*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*] This requires the yarn used for warp ends, or individual warp threads, to be made of [spun](/source/Spinning_(textiles)) and [plied](/source/Plying) [fibre](/source/Fibre).[*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*] Traditionally natural fibres such as [wool](/source/Wool), [linen](/source/Linen), [alpaca](/source/Alpaca), and [silk](/source/Silk) were used.[*[according to whom?](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Manual_of_Style/Words_to_watch#Unsupported_attributions)*][*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*] However, [improvements in spinning technology](/source/Textile_manufacture_during_the_Industrial_Revolution) during the [Industrial Revolution](/source/Industrial_Revolution) created [cotton](/source/Cotton) yarn of sufficient strength to be used in mechanized weaving.[*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*] Later, [synthetic fibres](/source/Synthetic_fibre) such as [nylon](/source/Nylon) or [rayon](/source/Rayon) were employed.[*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*]

While most weaving is weft-faced, warp-faced textiles are created using densely arranged warp threads.[*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*] In these, the design is in the warp, requiring all colors to be decided upon and placed during the first part of the weaving process, which cannot be changed.[*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*] Such limitations of color placement create weavings defined by length-wise stripes and vertical designs.[*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*] Many South American cultures, including the ancient Incas and Aymaras, employed *backstrap weaving*, which uses the weight of the weaver's body to control the tension of the loom.[8][*[failed verification](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability)*][*[full citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources#What_information_to_include)*]

## Weft

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Because the weft does not have to be stretched on a loom like the warp,[*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*] it can generally be less strong.[*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*] Originally used were spun yarns from fibres such as [wool](/source/Wool), [flax](/source/Flax) and cotton.[*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*] As of this date,[*[when?](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Manual_of_Style/Dates_and_numbers#Chronological_items)*] viscose-type (e.g., rayon) fibres, and synthetic fibres such as polyester and polyamide (nylon) are used.[*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*]

Handlooms were the original weaver's tool, with the shuttle being threaded through alternately raised warps by hand.[*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*] In modern applications, the weft is threaded through the warp using a [shuttle](/source/Shuttle_(weaving)), air jets,[*[clarification needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Please_clarify)*] or [rapier grippers](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Rapier_grippers&action=edit&redlink=1).[*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*]

## Appearances in literature

### Literally

The terms *warp* and *woof* are also found in some English translations of the Bible, in the discussion of mildews found in cloth materials (e.g., in Leviticus 13:48–59).[*[non-primary source needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:No_original_research#Primary,_secondary_and_tertiary_sources)*][*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*]

### As metaphor

This section needs more citations. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources in this section. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Warp and weft" – news · newspapers · books · scholar · JSTOR (August 2021) (Learn how and when to remove this message)

The expression *warp and weft* (also *warp and woof*) is used [metaphorically](/source/Metaphor) the way the word *fabric* might be; for instance, "the warp and woof of a student's life" equates to "the fabric of a student's life".[9][*[better source needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability#Questionable_sources)*] The expression is also used similarly for the underlying structure upon which something is built.[*[clarification needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Please_clarify)*][*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*]

The expresion "warp and weft" is sometimes used even more generally in literature to describe perceived basic dichotomies of the world in which one lives, e.g., the dichotomies of up and down, in and out, black and white, sun and moon, yin and yang, etc.[*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*][*[dubious](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Accuracy_dispute#Disputed_statement) – [discuss](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talk:Warp_and_weft#Dubious)*]

## In other fields

In computing, a *warp* is a block of parallel [threads](/source/Thread_(computing)) executed on a [GPU](/source/GPU) or similar [SIMD](/source/SIMD) device.[*[according to whom?](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Manual_of_Style/Words_to_watch#Unsupported_attributions)*][*[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed)*]

## See also

- [Warp knitting](/source/Warp_knitting)

## Notes

1. **[^](#cite_ref-1)** ["Weft"](https://web.archive.org/web/20170810213317/https://museum.gwu.edu/weft). *The George Washington University Museum and The Textile Museum*. Washington, DC: [George Washington University](/source/George_Washington_University). Archived from [the original](https://museum.gwu.edu/weft) on 2017-08-10. Retrieved 2017-08-10.

1. **[^](#cite_ref-Burnham_2-0)** Burnham (1980), pp. 170, 179

1. **[^](#cite_ref-Barber_1991,_p._79_3-0)** Barber (1991), p. 79.

1. ^ [***a***](#cite_ref-Aspin_4-0) [***b***](#cite_ref-Aspin_4-1) Aspin, Chris (1981). [*The Cotton Industry*](https://archive.org/details/cottonindustry0000aspi/page/20). Shire Library. p. [20](https://archive.org/details/cottonindustry0000aspi/page/20). [ISBN](/source/ISBN_(identifier)) [978-0-85263-545-2](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-85263-545-2).

1. **[^](#cite_ref-5)** ["warp | Search Online Etymology Dictionary"](http://www.etymonline.com/index.php?allowed_in_frame=0&search=warp). *www.etymonline.com*. Retrieved 2018-02-26.

1. **[^](#cite_ref-6)** ["Warp | The George Washington University Museum and The Textile Museum | The George Washington University"](https://museum.gwu.edu/warp). *museum.gwu.edu*. Retrieved 2017-08-10.

1. **[^](#cite_ref-7)** Burnham (1980), p. 132

1. **[^](#cite_ref-8)** [Nilda Callanaupa Alvarez](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Nilda_Callanaupa_Alvarez&action=edit&redlink=1), *Weaving in the Peruvian Highlands*.[*[full citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources#What_information_to_include)*]

1. **[^](#cite_ref-9)** ["warp and woof"](https://www.dictionary.com/browse/warp-and-woof). *Dictionary.com*. Retrieved 14 July 2023.

## References

Look up ***[warp](https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/warp)*** or ***[weft](https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/weft)*** in Wiktionary, the free dictionary.

- Barber, E. J. W. (1991). *Prehistoric Textiles*. Princeton University Press. [ISBN](/source/ISBN_(identifier)) [0-691-00224-X](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-691-00224-X).

- [Burnham, Dorothy K.](/source/Dorothy_K._Burnham) (1980). [*Warp and Weft: A Textile Terminology*](https://archive.org/details/warpwefttextilet0000burn). [Royal Ontario Museum](/source/Royal_Ontario_Museum). [ISBN](/source/ISBN_(identifier)) [0-88854-256-9](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-88854-256-9).

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Adapted from the Wikipedia article [Warp and weft](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Warp_and_weft) by Wikipedia contributors ([contributor history](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Warp_and_weft?action=history)). Available under [Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/). Changes may have been made.
