# Sumantri

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{{Short description|Mountain in the western Sudirman Range (New Guinea)}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name           = Sumantri Peak
| other_name     = ''Puncak Sumantri''
| image          = Sumantri (center) with Ngga Pulu (right) from Carstensz Summit by Christian Stangl flickr.jpg
| image_caption  = The [Northwall Firn](/source/East_Northwall_Firn) glacier with Sumantri (sharp peak, center) and [Ngga Pulu](/source/Ngga_Pulu) (flat peak, right).
| elevation_m    = 4870
| elevation_ref  = 
| prominence_m   = 350
| prominence_ref = 
| location       = [Central Papua](/source/Central_Papua), [Indonesia](/source/Indonesia)
| range          = [Sudirman Range](/source/Sudirman_Range)
| listing        = 
| map            = Indonesia Central Papua#Indonesia Western New Guinea#Indonesia
| map_caption    = Location in [Central Papua](/source/Central_Papua)##Location in [Western New Guinea](/source/Western_New_Guinea)##Location in [Indonesia](/source/Indonesia)
| region         = [Western New Guinea](/source/Western_New_Guinea)
| coordinates    = {{coord|4|03|43|S|137|11|06|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| first_ascent   = February 1962
| easiest_route  = rock/snow/ice climb
}}
'''Sumantri Peak''' (also spelled ''Soemantri'' or ''Soemantri Brodjonegoro''<ref>[https://highcamp.tripod.com/file/indopeak.htm Gunung-gunung Indonesia]</ref><ref name="sp_sumantri">SummitPost.org: [http://www.summitpost.org/sumantri/634409 Sumantri - Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering]</ref>) is a sharp mountain in the western [Sudirman Range](/source/Sudirman_Range) ([Central Papua](/source/Central_Papua)). It rises {{convert|4870|m|ft|0}}.

The peak is approximately 2&nbsp;km northeast of [Carstensz Pyramid](/source/Carstensz_Pyramid) (4,884 m), the highest mountain of [Oceania](/source/Oceania). The north side of Sumantri is dominated by tremendous cliffs, part of the ''Noordwand'' (Northwall) of the Carstensz Massif, that wrap around to the eastern and western sides of the mountain. Remnants of the once mighty Northwall Firn (now separated into [eastern](/source/East_Northwall_Firn) and [western](/source/West_Northwall_Firn) parts) cling tenuously to the southern aspects of the peak. It is unlikely that this ice will last for more than the next 15 years{{when|date=January 2017}}.<ref name="sp_sumantri" />

==Name== 
Before 1973 the summit was known as the NW summit of [Ngga Pulu](/source/Ngga_Pulu). The 1936 [Carstensz Expedition](/source/Carstensz_Expedition) called it the "Second Peak of the North Wall".<ref name=cozy>[Jean Jacques Dozy](/source/Jean_Jacques_Dozy) (2002) [http://www.angewandte-geologie.ch/Dokumente/Archiv/Vol71/7_1Dozy-Erz.pdf Vom höchsten Gipfel bis in die tiefste Grube. Entdeckung und Erschliessung der Gold - und Kupfererz - Lagerstätten von Irian Jaya, Indonesien] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120402183406/http://www.angewandte-geologie.ch/Dokumente/Archiv/Vol71/7_1Dozy-Erz.pdf |date=2012-04-02 }}, Bull. angew. Geol. 7, pp 67-80.</ref> [Heinrich Harrer](/source/Heinrich_Harrer) labeled it Ngapalu on [http://7summits.com/pix/carstensz/pix/hhcarmapnorm7s.gif his map drawn in 1962], while calling the SE peak of Ngga Pulu "Sunday Peak". Describing his ascent of both peaks in 1972, Dick Isherwood followed this nomenclature, using Ngga Poloe for what is now Sumantri and Sunday Peak for what is now known as Ngga Pulu.<ref name= Isherwood>R.J. Isherwood, [https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1973_files/AJ%201973%20188-194%20Isherwood%20Dugundugoo.pdf The Dugundugoo], [The Alpine Journal](/source/The_Alpine_Journal) 1973, pp 188-194.</ref>

The Indonesian government renamed the NW summit after professor {{Interlanguage link multi|Sumantri Brodjonegoro|id}}, Minister of Energy and Mineral Resources of the Republic of Indonesia, after he had died in office in 1973 at the age of 47.<!--I presume he got this honor for his role in the development of the nearby Grasberg Mine. Perhaps someone can confirm that.-->

== Climbing history ==
The neighboring and, at the time, higher SE summit of [Ngga Pulu](/source/Ngga_Pulu) was first climbed by a Dutch expedition in 1936 ([Anton Colijn](/source/Anton_Colijn), [Jean Jacques Dozy](/source/Jean_Jacques_Dozy) and [Frits Wissel](/source/Frits_Wissel)).<ref name=cozy/> The NW summit was first climbed in February 1962 by [Heinrich Harrer](/source/Heinrich_Harrer), [Philip Temple](/source/Philip_Temple), Russel Kippax and Bert Huizenga after their first ascent of Carstensz Pyramid. 

The 600 m high north cliff was first climbed by [Reinhold Messner](/source/Reinhold_Messner) in a solo effort on 27 September 1971, after he had second-ascended the Carstensz Pyramid with his client Sergio Bigarella earlier in the week.<ref name=messner>Reinhold Messner, ''Die Freheit aufzubrechen, whoin ich will'', Piper Verlag, Munich, 1989, pp. 189-194.</ref><!--Has a great picture of the peaks--> A year later Leo Murray, Jack Baines, and Dick Isherwood climbed both peaks of Ngga Pulu and found the peg that Meisner had left behind on top of the North Face of what they called Ngga Poloe (now Sumantri).<ref name=Isherwood/><ref name=messner/>

== Geology and glaciers==
The mountains of Central Papua are being formed as the Australian and Pacific Plates collide, resulting in both subduction and uplifting. The rocks at the surface for the peaks in this range are made of limestone. As a result, even though the summit block of the peak looks extremely daunting, it is a fairly easy scramble.

Due to the melting of the [Northwall Firn](/source/East_Northwall_Firn) from the SE peak of Ngga Pulu, this summit is now the highest point of the north ridge of Mount Carstensz. Furthermore, due to the complete vanishing of the Meren Glacier, its [topographic prominence](/source/topographic_prominence) has increased from what would have been ~200 m to ~350 m. Sumantri could be considered the second highest independent mountain of Oceania, and it features on some [Seven Second Summits](/source/Seven_Second_Summits) lists.<ref>[http://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=24496 ''Sumantri - Ngga Pulu'']</ref><ref>Skyrunning.at: [http://skyrunning.at/en/content/sumantri-true-2 ''Sumantri - the true #2'']</ref><ref>Eberhard Jurgalski: [http://www.8000ers.com/cms/en/download.html?func=startdown&id=227 ''Triple Seven Summits'' (download, pdf)] (8000ers.com, 2013)</ref><ref>[Heinrich Harrer](/source/Heinrich_Harrer): ''Beyond Seven Years in Tibet: My Life Before, During, and After'' (2007) pp. 283-290</ref>

== References ==
{{reflist}}

== External links ==
* SummitPost.org: [http://www.summitpost.org/sumantri/634409 Sumantri - Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering]

Category:Mountains of Western New Guinea
Category:Four-thousanders of New Guinea

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Adapted from the Wikipedia article [Sumantri](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sumantri) by Wikipedia contributors ([contributor history](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sumantri?action=history)). Available under [Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/). Changes may have been made.