# Shayne Oliver

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{{Short description|American fashion designer and musician}}
{{Infobox artist
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| name             = Shayne Oliver <!-- include middle initial, if not specified in birth_name -->
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| image            = Shanyeoliver.jpg
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| caption          = Oliver in 2025
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| birth_date       = 1988 <!-- {{Birth date and age|YYYY|MM|DD}} for living artists, {{Birth date|YYYY|MM|DD}} for dead. For living people supply only the year unless the exact date is already WIDELY published, as per [WP:DOB](/source/WP%3ADOB). Treat such cases as if only the year is known, so use {{birth year and age|YYYY}} or a similar option. -->
| birth_place      = Minnesota, U.S.
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| education        = [New York University](/source/New_York_University)<br>[Fashion Institute of Technology](/source/Fashion_Institute_of_Technology)
| alma_mater       = 
| known_for        = [Hood By Air](/source/Hood_By_Air) co-founder
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'''Shayne Oliver''' is a fashion designer, musician, and creative director based in [New York City](/source/New_York_City). He is the co-founder and design director of [Hood By Air](/source/Hood_By_Air), a fashion brand he established together with designer Raul Lopez in 2006. In 2013, Oliver was named as one of the 25 Greatest Black Fashion Designers by ''[Complex](/source/Complex_Media)''.<ref>{{Cite web|title=The Influential Black Fashion Designers You Should Know|url=https://www.complex.com/style/2020/02/the-25-greatest-black-fashion-designers/|access-date=2021-07-16|website=Complex|language=en}}</ref>

== Early years and education ==

Oliver was born in [Minnesota](/source/Minnesota) in 1988. After living for several years in [Trinidad](/source/Trinidad) as a child, he moved to [Brooklyn](/source/Brooklyn) in 2000. At the age of thirteen, Oliver began going to clubs and attending DJ nights. During that time, he met many people with whom he would later collaborate, including many of the queer artists who later would influence his work.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web|last=Dazed|date=2019-12-17|title=A collective, anarchic history of Hood By Air|url=https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/47087/1/a-collective-anarchic-history-of-hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-16|website=Dazed|language=en}}</ref>

As a teenager, Oliver attended the [Harvey Milk High School](/source/Harvey_Milk_High_School), an [East Village](/source/East_Village%2C_Manhattan) public school designed for (but not limited to) [gay](/source/gay), [lesbian](/source/lesbian), [bisexual](/source/Bisexuality), and [transgender](/source/transgender) youth who may be at risk where they live. Through his experiences at the school, he became involved in the [Ballroom](/source/Ball_culture) scene, where he was taken under the wing of prominent dancer, [Willi Ninja](/source/Willi_Ninja). Oliver began [voguing](/source/Vogue_(dance)) and joined the House of Ninja, before moving to the House of Kahn and the House of Mizrahi. Eventually, he departed from the scene but remained inspired by the culture and music at its core.<ref name="FADER Explains: Hood By Air">{{Cite web|title=FADER Explains: Hood By Air|url=https://www.thefader.com/2014/05/27/fader-explains-hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-16|website=The FADER|language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news|last=Hartman|first=Eviana|date=2015-03-02|title=Shayne Oliver's Anything-Goes Ethos|language=en-US|work=The New York Times|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2015/03/02/t-magazine/shayne-oliver-hood-by-air-style-profile.html|access-date=2021-07-16|issn=0362-4331}}</ref>

In 2005 Oliver made the acquaintance of artist [Dash Snow](/source/Dash_Snow), fostering a relationship leading to Oliver showing some of his early [Hood By Air](/source/Hood_By_Air) designs at Snow's gallery in 2006. At the same time, Oliver attended [New York University](/source/New_York_University) in [Manhattan](/source/Manhattan) where he pursued an interest in [performance art](/source/performance_art). At the time he began collaborating with artist [Rashaad Newsome](/source/Rashaad_Newsome). Combining his interests in fashion and performance, Oliver started making his own looks for performances at Newsome's shows, with the artist viewing Oliver as a [muse](/source/Muses). At this stage, Oliver primarily was making clothes in which to perform. Over time however, his designs began to form as part of ready-to-wear collections which eventually were to be released with the Hood By Air brand.<ref name=":1">{{Cite web|date=2020-06-16|title=How Hood By Air Harnessed the Spirit of New York City Nightlife|url=https://www.electronicbeats.net/hood-by-air-shayne-oliver-venus-x-ghettogothik/|access-date=2021-07-16|website=Telekom Electronic Beats|language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=Rashaad Newsome Recalls Meeting a Young, Pre-Hood by Air Shayne Oliver|url=https://www.wmagazine.com/story/shayne-oliver-hood-by-air-vogueing-rashaad-newsome|access-date=2021-07-16|website=W Magazine|date=28 March 2016 |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|last=Fletcher|first=i-D. Team,Adam|date=2014-10-10|title=new yorker rashaad newsome is turning hip hop pop culture into art|url=https://i-d.co/article/new-yorker-rashaad-newsome-is-turning-hip-hop-pop-culture-into-art/|access-date=2021-07-16|website=i-D|language=en}}</ref>

After being at New York University, Oliver attended the [Fashion Institute of Technology](/source/Fashion_Institute_of_Technology) (FIT) in Manhattan and left after one semester.<ref>{{Cite news|last=Givhan|first=Robin|date=2014-09-04|title=How designer Shayne Oliver won over Kanye West, A$AP Rocky — and the fashion world|language=en-US|newspaper=Washington Post|url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/style/how-designer-shayne-oliver-won-over-kanye-west-aap-rocky--and-the-fashion-world/2014/09/04/0164105e-2972-11e4-8593-da634b334390_story.html|access-date=2021-07-21|issn=0190-8286}}</ref> From 2009, while working on HBA, he was involved with GHE20G0TH1K, a club night launched by Jazmin Soto, aka Venus X, in New York City. On those nights Oliver popularized his style of DJing. He is self taught and used a [CDJ](/source/CDJ) as an instrument by playing with [tempo](/source/tempo)s and cues, influencing how audiences perceived the GHE20G0TH1K sound.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1" /> He also met several future collaborators at GHE20G0TH1K parties including [Arca](/source/Arca_(musician)) [link], who later was a frequent collaborator on Hood By Air [soundtrack](/source/soundtrack)s. At the time, Oliver took inspiration from the way that [French fashion](/source/French_fashion) designer [Hedi Slimane](/source/Hedi_Slimane) incorporated music and bands into the lifestyle which accompanied his clothing. Oliver and Arca worked to create a parallel lifestyle via music and fashion crossovers.<ref name="Givhan">{{Cite news|last=Givhan|first=Robin|date=2014-09-04|title=How designer Shayne Oliver won over Kanye West, A$AP Rocky — and the fashion world|language=en-US|newspaper=Washington Post|url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/style/how-designer-shayne-oliver-won-over-kanye-west-aap-rocky--and-the-fashion-world/2014/09/04/0164105e-2972-11e4-8593-da634b334390_story.html|access-date=2021-07-16|issn=0190-8286}}</ref>
== Hood By Air ==
Oliver co-founded Hood By Air in 2006 with fellow designer, Raul Lopez. Initially designing graphic t-shirts and sweatshirts which sold at boutiques including OAK NYC, Seven New York, and [Opening Ceremony](/source/Opening_Ceremony_(brand)), the brand quickly amassed a cult following.<ref name="FADER Explains: Hood By Air"/> Under Oliver's direction, Hood By Air (also known by the acronym, HBA), soon began expanding into [ready-to-wear](/source/ready-to-wear) collections, displaying Oliver's technical design ability and becoming synonymous with diverse cultural reference points including [queer culture](/source/Sexuality_and_gender_identity%E2%80%93based_cultures) and the ballroom scene, New York nightlife, [high art](/source/Fine_art), in addition to elements of [skate](/source/Skateboarding) and street culture.

Oliver, through Hood By Air, was credited by fashion magazine ''[Dazed](/source/Dazed)'' with "changing the face of fashion" in 2020.<ref>{{Cite web|last=Dazed|date=2020-07-13|title=Hood By Air is back with a whole new vision|url=https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/49812/1/hood-by-air-shayne-oliver-return-new-vision-collaborative-anonymous-museum|access-date=2021-07-16|website=Dazed|language=en}}</ref> [''Interview'' magazine](/source/Interview_(magazine)) wrote that by "[perfecting] the union of streetwear and high fashion" Shayne "helped create the global merchandising blueprint for menswear today".<ref>{{Cite web|date=2019-02-27|title=Shayne Oliver Tells Kanye West that He Won't Be Rushed into Creating the Future of Streetwear|url=https://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/shayne-oliver-tells-kanye-west-that-he-wont-be-rushed-into-creating-the-future-of-hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-16|website=Interview Magazine|language=en-US}}</ref> Hood By Air is notable for its merging of art, music, and fashion through its design references as well as through performance art elements at its shows. [Models](/source/Model_(person)) at Hood By Air shows have included rapper [A$AP Rocky](/source/ASAP_Rocky), designer [Telfar Clemens](/source/Telfar_Clemens), artist [Wolfgang Tilmans](/source/Wolfgang_Tillmans), and performance artist [Boychild](/source/Boychild). Show soundtracks have been composed and performed by [Arca](/source/Arca_(musician)), Total Freedom, Venus X, and Oliver himself.

From 2012 to 2017 the brand showed regularly at both [New York Fashion Week](/source/New_York_Fashion_Week) and [Paris Fashion Week](/source/Paris_Fashion_Week), as well as presenting at the Italian menswear [trade show](/source/Trade_fair), [Pitti Uomo](/source/Pitti_Uomo), in 2017. In mid-2017, he announced a hiatus period for Hood By Air, a decision that was informed by structural challenges within the business, and a desire to temporarily create outside of a singular brand structure.<ref>{{Cite web|date=2020-02-12|title=What Happened to Hood By Air?|url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/retail/what-happened-to-hood-by-air|access-date=2021-07-16|website=The Business of Fashion|language=en-GB}}</ref> In 2020, Oliver announced the relaunch of Hood By Air under a new business structure. In 2021, Hood By Air released its first campaign imagery following its return from hiatus, featuring supermodel [Naomi Campbell](/source/Naomi_Campbell).<ref>{{Cite news|last=Friedman|first=Vanessa|date=2021-03-03|title=Hood by Air Is Back|language=en-US|work=The New York Times|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2021/03/03/style/shayne-oliver-hood-by-air.html|access-date=2021-07-16|issn=0362-4331}}</ref>

== Design roles ==

During a three-year hiatus from Hood By Air, Oliver worked with several international [fashion houses](/source/Fashion_design) in design and [creative direction](/source/Creative_director) roles.

=== Helmut Lang ===
In 2017, Oliver was approached by Isabella Burley, editor-in-residence at [Helmut Lang](/source/Helmut_Lang_(fashion_brand)). Burley offered Oliver a design residency at the company, which Oliver accepted. In September 2017, Oliver unveiled the brand's Spring 2018 ready-to-wear collection at [New York Fashion Week](/source/New_York_Fashion_Week), reworking pieces known as Helmut Lang standards in Oliver's own design language. In addition to the ready-to-wear collection, Oliver created a capsule inspired by band tour merch, billed as Helmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver Autumn Tour Merch.<ref>{{Cite web|last=Dazed|date=2017-09-12|title=Shayne Oliver's Helmut Lang makes next-level NYFW debut|url=https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/37360/1/shayne-olivers-helmut-lang-makes-its-nyfw-debut-ss18-show-isabella-burley|access-date=2021-07-16|website=Dazed|language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|date=2017-09-11|title=The Helmut Lang Seen by Shayne Autumn Tour Merch Collection Offers a Novel Way to Show You're With the B(r)and|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/new-york-fashion-week-spring-2018-shayne-oliver-helmut-lang|access-date=2021-07-16|website=Vogue|language=en-US}}</ref>

=== Diesel ===
After being at Helmut Lang, Oliver briefly worked with the Italian fashion brand, [Diesel](/source/Diesel_(brand)). In March 2018 Oliver and Diesel released a collaborative capsule collection as part of the Diesel Red Tag Project. Here, Oliver subverted [Americana](/source/Americana_(culture)) staples with his intricate reworking of [denim](/source/denim) apparel.

=== Longchamp ===
In a collaboration with [Longchamp](/source/Longchamp_(company)), released in May 2018, Oliver put his spin on the French luxury [leather](/source/leather) goods brand. In a collection which encompassed clothes, shoes, and bags, He played with the brand's luxury design vocabulary, placing recognizable tenets of the brand such as leather luggage handles onto the sleeves of jackets.<ref>{{Cite web|date=2018-04-12|title=The Unexpected Magic of Shayne Oliver's Longchamp Collaboration|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hba-shayne-oliver-longchamp-collaboration-vogue-may-2018-issue|access-date=2021-07-16|website=Vogue|language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|last=Tsui|first=Diana|date=2018-05-03|title=Longchamp's Newest Collaboration Is a Hypebeast's Dream|url=https://www.thecut.com/2018/05/shayne-oliver-longchamp-collaboration.html|access-date=2021-07-16|website=The Cut|language=en-us}}</ref>

=== Colmar ===
Oliver also collaborated with heritage activewear label, Colmar, in 2018. Working on the Colmar A.G.E. (Advanced Garment Exploration) line, he reached into the label's extensive archive and reinterpreted a series of [unisex](/source/unisex) styles, inspired by ‘[alpine](/source/Mountain) nostalgia’, for FW18. Oliver said that the collaboration is "juggling the iconic products of Colmar with my sense of performance and a unisex approach to wearing fashion".<ref>{{Cite web|date=2018-09-01|title=Shayne Oliver Teams Up With Colmar For Skiwear Collection|url=https://www.papermag.com/shayne-oliver-colmar-aw18-2600873491.html|access-date=2021-07-16|website=PAPER|language=en}}</ref>

=== Anonymous Club ===
Shayne Oliver is the creative director of Anonymous Club, a creative studio established in 2020 and formalized as part of the Hood By Air relaunch. Led by Oliver, the studio operates with a collective structure, providing residencies to creative talent in order to execute artistic projects together. Anonymous Club plays a role in shaping Hood By Air's wider brand  through creative collaborations between the brand and others.<ref name=":2">{{Cite web|date=2020-12-07|title=Hood By Air Talk Us Through The First Anonymous Club Residency|url=https://www.10magazine.com/arts/hood-by-air-anonymous-club-residency/|access-date=2021-07-16|website=10 Magazine}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|last=Dazed|date=2020-09-15|title=Anonymous Club writes a manifesto for making art now|url=https://www.dazeddigital.com/read-up-act-up-autumn-2020/article/50400/1/read-up-act-up-autumn-2020-anonymous-club-guest-edit|access-date=2021-07-16|website=Dazed|language=en}}</ref> In 2022, they launched their first presentation as Anonymous Club at The Shed in New York City called [https://theshed.org/program/224-headless-the-demonstration Headless: The Demonstration.]

== Creative projects and aliases ==

* Shayne Oliver performs as Leech inhabiting a musical [avatar](/source/Avatar_(computing)) which has also been embodied by Anonymous Club residents [Boychild](/source/Boychild) and Josh Johnson. In September 2020 Oliver, as Leech, released the single ‘In The Mood’.<ref name=":2" />
* Between 2008 and 2009, he formed the band CHLDRN (also known as Children) with New York City-based artist, musician and composer [Fatima Al Qadiri](/source/Fatima_Al_Qadiri).<ref>{{Cite web|date=2012-10-11|title=Fatima Al Qadiri|url=http://signsjournal.org/fatima-al-qadiri/|access-date=2021-07-16|website=Signs: Journal of Women in Culture and Society|language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|last=Qadiri|first=Fatima Al|title=.about « Fatima Al Qadiri|url=https://fatimaalqadiri.com/music/chldrn/file/about-chldrn/|access-date=2021-07-16|language=en-US}}</ref>
* Oliver has worked on various musical projects with Arca. In addition to working on Hood By Air soundtracks, the duo has released music under the project names 88<ref>{{Citation|title=88mmuussiicc (Arca and Shayne Oliver) - Unknown (Make My Body Rock)|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJOQBMtns0U|language=en|access-date=2021-07-16}}</ref> and Wench. Oliver and Arca worked on music for the 2020 documentary film, ''Shakedown'', directed by Leilah Weinraub.<ref>{{Cite web|date=2017-09-12|title=Arca and Hood By Air's Shayne Oliver Share New Wench Videos: Watch|url=https://pitchfork.com/news/arca-and-hood-by-airs-shayne-oliver-share-new-wench-videos-watch/|access-date=2021-07-16|website=Pitchfork|language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=Queer the dancefloor: How electronic music evolved by re-embracing its radical roots|url=https://mixmag.net/feature/queer-the-dancefloor-how-electronic-music-evolved-by-re-embracing-its-radical-roots|access-date=2021-07-16|website=Mixmag}}</ref>

== Awards ==

●  2014 [LVMH Special Jury Prize](/source/LVMH_Prize)<ref name=":22">{{Cite web|title=LVMH announces the winners of the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers 2014|url=https://www.lvmh.com/news-documents/press-releases/lvmh-announces-the-winners-of-the-lvmh-prize-for-young-fashion-designers-2014/|access-date=2021-07-02|website=LVMH|date=28 May 2014 |language=en}}</ref>

●  2015 [CFDA](/source/CFDA_Award) Swarovski Award for Menswear<ref>{{Cite web|title=Hood By Air's Shayne Oliver Wins Swarovski Award for Menswear at 2015 CFDA Awards|url=https://www.complex.com/style/2015/06/shayne-oliver-hood-by-air-2015-cfda-awards|access-date=2021-07-02|website=Complex|language=en}}</ref>

●  2021 Nominated as a candidate for [Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum](/source/Cooper_Hewitt%2C_Smithsonian_Design_Museum)<ref>{{Cite web|last=Lisby|first=Darnell-Jamal|date=2021-06-03|title=The untold American fashion history you need to know|url=https://i-d.co/article/american-fashion-history/|access-date=2021-07-16|website=i-D|language=en}}</ref>

==References==

<references />

{{DEFAULTSORT:Oliver, Shayne}}
Category:Living people
Category:American fashion designers
Category:21st-century American musicians
Category:1988 births
Category:21st-century American designers

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Adapted from the Wikipedia article [Shayne Oliver](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shayne_Oliver) by Wikipedia contributors ([contributor history](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shayne_Oliver?action=history)). Available under [Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/). Changes may have been made.