# Raymond Greene

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{{Short description|British doctor and mountaineer}}
{{about||the British Conservative politician|Sir Raymond Greene, 2nd Baronet}}
{{other people|Ray Greene}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=January 2024}}

'''Charles Raymond Greene''' (17 April 1901 – 6 December 1982) was a British doctor and an accomplished [mountaineer](/source/Mountaineering).<ref name="RCP"/>

==Biography==
Greene was born in [Berkhamsted](/source/Berkhamsted).<ref>[https://embryo.asu.edu/pages/charles-raymond-greene-1901-1982 "Charles Raymond Greene (1901–1982)"]. embryo.asu.edu. Retrieved 10 October 2022.</ref> He was the older brother of the novelist [Graham Greene](/source/Graham_Greene) and the broadcaster and [BBC](/source/BBC) executive [Sir Hugh Greene](/source/Sir_Hugh_Greene). He was educated at [Berkhamsted School](/source/Berkhamsted_School), where his father was the headmaster, and he took a degree in physiology at [Pembroke College, Oxford](/source/Pembroke_College%2C_Oxford). He qualified as a doctor in 1927 and joined a general practice in Oxford.<ref name=WEM>{{cite journal | title = Raymond Greene: Physician, Mountaineer, and Raconteur | journal =Wilderness & Environmental Medicine| date=2011|  first1 =George W  | last1 = Rodway |  first2 = Victoria | last2 = Gibbs  | first3 = Jeremy S| last3 = Windsor |  issn= 1545-1534 |volume =#22 |issue = 3 | pages= 270–276  |   access-date = 24 August 2024 | doi=10.1016/j.wem.2011.01.00    | doi-broken-date =12 July 2025|url = https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1016/j.wem.2011.01.005?icid=int.sj-abstract.citing-articles.5 }}</ref>

He developed his interest in mountaineering whilst at school, restarted the Oxford University mountaineering club and climbed extensively in the Alps. In 1931 he joined an expedition to [Mount Kamet](/source/Kamet) in the Himalayas led by [Frank Smythe](/source/Frank_Smythe) (who was also educated at Berkhamsted School). All the climbers reached the summit at over 25,000 feet, then the highest mountain to have been climbed.<ref>{{cite book | title = Kamet Conquered | date=1932|  first = Frank Sydney| last =  Smythe |publisher =Gollancz | access-date = 24 August 2024 | url = https://archive.org/details/KametConquered  }}</ref>

He joined the [1933 Everest expedition](/source/1933_British_Mount_Everest_expedition) led by [Hugh Ruttledge](/source/Hugh_Ruttledge) as senior doctor, chief intellect, and a competent [mountaineer](/source/mountaineer) of gigantic physique, being over 6&nbsp;ft 4in. He was selected to attempt the summit, without oxygen, but suffered heart problems at Camp 5 and had to descend.<ref>{{cite book | title = Everest 1933 | date=1934|  first = Hugh| last = Ruttledge |publisher =Hodder & Stoughton  | access-date = 24 August 2024 | url = https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.210461/page/n287/mode/2up }}</ref> In 1953 when the mountain was finally climbed, it was Greene who made the announcement on the BBC.<ref name="Shades"/>

During [World War II](/source/World_War_II) he worked as a doctor with [Special Operations Executive](/source/Special_Operations_Executive) (SOE) and as advisor to the armed forces on the effects of high altitude and cold on the human body.<ref name=WEM/>

He went on to become an expert in the treatment of [thyroid](/source/thyroid) and other [endocrine disease](/source/endocrine_disease)s, [migraine](/source/migraine), and [frostbite](/source/frostbite).<ref name=WEM/> His work with [Katharina Dalton](/source/Katharina_Dalton) resulted in the coining of the term "[Premenstrual syndrome](/source/Premenstrual_syndrome)" and their research into the subject was subsequently used in criminal cases involving  women accused of [infanticide](/source/infanticide) and other violent crimes.<ref>{{cite news | title = Katharina Dalton, 87; First Doctor to Define, Treat PMS | work =Los Angeles Times| date= 28 September 2004|  first =Myrna | last = Oliver |   access-date = 24 August 2024  |url = https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2004-sep-28-me-dalton28-story.html }}</ref> He was Senior Physician at the [Royal Northern Hospital](/source/Royal_Northern_Hospital) and [New End Hospital](/source/New_End_Hospital) Hampstead. Between 1960 and 1980 he was chairman of [Heinemann](/source/Heinemann_(book_publisher)) Medical Books.<ref name="RCP">{{cite web  | title = Charles Raymond Greene | website =Royal College of Physicians|  first =A Stuart | last =  Mason  |   access-date = 24 August 2014 |url = https://history.rcplondon.ac.uk/inspiring-physicians/charles-raymond-greene }}</ref> He was a fellow of the [Royal Zoological Society](/source/Royal_Zoological_Society) and diagnosed and treated thyroid problems in [Guy the Gorilla](/source/Guy_the_Gorilla) at the [London Zoo](/source/London_Zoo).<ref name="Shades">{{cite book | title = Shades of Greene: One Generation of an English Family | date=2010|  first = Jeremy | last = Lewis |  isbn= 9780224079211 |publisher = Jonathan Cape | access-date = 24 August 2024 | url = https://books.google.com/books?id=THLpAgAAQBAJ&q=SHADES+OF+GREENE:+ONE+GENERATION+OF+AN+ENGLISH+FAMILY }}</ref> He was also medical advisor to President [Charles de Gaulle](/source/Charles_de_Gaulle) during his state visit to England in 1960 and was awarded the [Legion of Honour](/source/Legion_of_Honour) of France.<ref name=WEM/> His autobiography, ''Moments of Being'', was published in 1974.

==Selected publications==

*''The Practice of Endocrinology'' (1951)
*''Human Hormones'' (1970)
*[https://archive.org/details/sickdoctors0000gree/page/n5/mode/2up ''Sick Doctors''] (1971)
*[https://archive.org/details/momentsofbeingra0000gree ''Moments of Being: The Random Recollections of Raymond Greene''] (1974)
*''Current Concepts in Migraine Research'' (1978)

==References==
{{Reflist}}

==Further reading==
* {{cite book
  | last = Lewis
  | first = Jeremy
  | title = Shades of Greene: One Generation of an English Family
  | publisher = [Jonathan Cape](/source/Jonathan_Cape)
  | year = 2010}}

{{Authority control}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Greene, Raymond}}
Category:1901 births
Category:1982 deaths
Category:20th-century British medical doctors
Category:High-altitude medicine doctors
Category:People from Berkhamsted
Category:People educated at Berkhamsted School
Category:Alumni of Pembroke College, Oxford

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Adapted from the Wikipedia article [Raymond Greene](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raymond_Greene) by Wikipedia contributors ([contributor history](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raymond_Greene?action=history)). Available under [Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/). Changes may have been made.
